Removing Rust From Litho Tinplate

It’s usually not possible without destroying the litho.  Most rust originates behind the litho on the tin and eats through the litho. If it is a rust stain or transfer rust, it should wax or wash off. You can use Plastix car polish. I have found it to be gentle on litho.

Some rust happens because of a scratch or abrasion to the litho. You can sometimes clean the rust off around the damaged area to improve the appearance.

George

George S posted:

It’s usually not possible without destroying the litho.  Most rust originates behind the litho on the tin and eats through the litho. If it is a rust stain or transfer rust, it should wax or wash off. You can use Plastix car polish. I have found it to be gentle on litho.

Some rust happens because of a scratch or abrasion to the litho. You can sometimes clean the rust off around the damaged area to improve the appearance.

George

Thank you George. I’d say it’s surface rust. Looks like the litho is still underneath. Anyway I could scrape it off without damaging the litho? Any liquids?

I would use a cloth sprayed with WD40 and wipe it down. 

I've heard good things about Evaporust.  I went to one of the big box stores  but they didn't have it in stock.  I still need to pick up a jug and try it myself.  Here is a description and link.

• Removes even heavy rust completely
• Removes rust without scrubbing
• Non-toxic, Biodegradable, Non-corrosive, Safe on skin and eyes, No fumes or bad odors, Contains no acids, bases, solvents, or VOCs
• Safe for use on; cast iron cookware, grill grates, antiques, tools, auto parts, clocks, sewing machines, toys and more.
• Will not harm unrusted steel, safe on other metals and Will not affect plastic, PVC, Viton and most paints
• Contains No Acids
• Non-Toxic

Carefully use some Meguiars cleaner/wax, but do not use WD40. It will creep under the litho and makes things worse in the end.

Before:

 After using Meguiars A1216:

:

Regards

Fred

Thanks JD. I may try that "no contact" approach. I've tried WD40 on some items before, but to no success.

Here are some photos to help envision what I've got on my hands(ha!) Do some areas look burned even?

sncf231e posted:

Carefully use some Meguiars cleaner/wax, but do not use WD40. It will creep under the litho and makes things worse in the end.

Before:

 

 After using Meguiars A1216:

:

 

Regards

Fred

Thanks Fred! Which bottle would you recommend? (I see a few on the market) Also, are there instructions on the bottle as to how to use this? Let it sit in it for a while? Suggestions? Thanks again!
Ariel

JD2035RR posted:

I've heard good things about Evaporust.  I went to one of the big box stores  but they didn't have it in stock.  I still need to pick up a jug and try it myself.  Here is a description and link.

• Removes even heavy rust completely
• Removes rust without scrubbing
• Non-toxic, Biodegradable, Non-corrosive, Safe on skin and eyes, No fumes or bad odors, Contains no acids, bases, solvents, or VOCs
• Safe for use on; cast iron cookware, grill grates, antiques, tools, auto parts, clocks, sewing machines, toys and more.
• Will not harm unrusted steel, safe on other metals and Will not affect plastic, PVC, Viton and most paints
• Contains No Acids
• Non-Toxic

• Biodegradable
• No Fumes
• Safe on skin

https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-R...4225091650&psc=1

Do not use EvapoRust on litho. It will fade or strip the litho. It’s great stuff for parts you plan to repaint. It also removes blackening on trucks so be careful.

George

sncf231e posted:

Carefully use some Meguiars cleaner/wax, but do not use WD40. It will creep under the litho and makes things worse in the end.

Before:

 

 After using Meguiars A1216:

:

 

Regards

Fred

This is the right approach. Do not scrape it; you will scratch the litho.

George

Elgaucho posted:

Thanks Fred! Which bottle would you recommend? (I see a few on the market) Also, are there instructions on the bottle as to how to use this? Let it sit in it for a while? Suggestions? Thanks again!
Ariel

I use Meguiar's cleaner wax a1216; the instructions are on the bottle, but use it carefully to start with.

Regards

Fred

I have heard that beer can collectors use something that removes the rust, but leaves the lithography. I do not know what it is called, however.

RoyBoy posted:

I have heard that beer can collectors use something that removes the rust, but leaves the lithography. I do not know what it is called, however.

I believe you are referring to oxalic acid, although some people use milder citric acid. I think this is in EvapoRust. EvapoRust faded the litho on an old cone top beer can I tried it on.

George

ELGOUCHO...

Evaporust definitely works, but not for this application, your paint would be gone if you soaked it too long....

straight vinegar removes rust very well, but is even harder on paint and most definitely not for this type of application....

I have an idea, but I don't want you to use it unless someone else previously has. In fact, for this application I am almost certain you would not want to use it. But I'm throwing this out there because I'm curious to know if anyone has tried it with tin litho.... but in other area's you might find it really useful, like de-rusting old track, stuff like that.... 

I'm talking about "Rust Removal using Electrolysis"

I have used this many times on heavily rusted cast iron and it worked beautiful and it removed all rust and left the paint. I have used it on old tractor and motorcycle gas tanks and it worked excellent there also, but those were all items that I am certain had a lot better surface prep on them than tin litho trains. 

Do an online search and you'll see how it works. you're submerging whatever you are derusting in water so that's why I don't think it would work for you. Then again if there is rust underneath where you can't see, perhaps it's only a matter of time anyway until that area peels? 

Fred's method using Meguiars cleaner/wax sure did a great job...