Ross Switch Wiring

Is this what you have?

http://www.z-stuff.net/instruc...02%20w-nonderail.pdf

Ken:

Try this and see if it helps

Joe

cjack posted:

Is this what you have?

http://www.z-stuff.net/instruc...02%20w-nonderail.pdf

Thank you Chuck that's certainly more info then came with the switch. The problem is that the diagram is for a switch that only has 2 positions. My switch has 3, (L-Straight-R). Looking at the switch, I don't think there is room to make an insulated rail section on the outbound (which would be inbound when you want the anti-derailing function working) switch section. I'm wondering if that suggests insulating one of the rails for each section of track attached to the outbound rails of the switch.

Any thoughts.

Ken

i just wired two of these with 2 DZ-2500s you need 2 DZ-1008 relays and 4 diodes.

For L-C-R  I used 3 SPST push buttons wired to the trigger rails that were non-derailing.

AlanRail posted:

i just wired two of these with 2 DZ-2500s you need 2 DZ-1008 relays and 4 diodes.

For L-C-R  I used 3 SPST push buttons wired to the trigger rails that were non-derailing.

Alan, my switch came with 3 DZ-1000s. The instructions talk about the necessity for the DZ-1008 if your roller spacing is less than 4". The instructions do not cover non-derailing connection for this switch.  What are the DZ-2500 and do you have a wiring diagram?

Ken

This Ross Three way only has non-derail on the straight, straight through track.  The other two entry points are controlled by non-derail on the paired cross over switches. 

The DZ 1008's are used to track power, (logically power), the short dead rail pieces, center of the switch in either diverge position, though in most cases it will work fine with out the power routing.

 It is more like wiring two individual switches.   Note that both switches (switch motors and related push buttons) have to be in the straight through position before either switch machine can be switched to diverge.  

The Fort Pitt Highrailers  "Y" module with two Ross 204 three way switches.

Note the cross over pairs. There are two Ross 101 switches paired with the 204.  Each cross over requires two motors to work simultaneously.  Logically you can not enter either diverge point with the switch in the wrong position. There is non-derail on the Ross 101's  and there is non-derail on the center track of the 204.  Actually there are two non-derail input sections on the 204, one for each of the two switch motors.

Short dead rail sections (2) center of switch.  They would only have to be powered diverge left or diverge right. In most cases the switch will work well with out power routing these two rail sections.  

Here is how it works. Mouse over the Photobucket image and click on the triangle to access a video.

the DZ-2500C is the small more compact DZ-1000; it has more features such as single wire control for command control and 2 wires for non derailing.

the wiring diagram for the 3-way only works with the DZ-2500C

Do NOT cut your Ross switch rails!  You can "create" a "dead" rail section on a piece of track before or after your turnout.  The "dead" section of rail, used to activate the non-derailing feature, does NOT have to physically be on or in the switch.

I own two Ross 4-way switches and there's no way I'm cutting-on either of these two expensive turnouts!!!

I'm simply made "dead" rail (short electrically isolated sections of rail) after each of the 4 legs of the turnout.  It took some thinking and time to figure out how to arrange the wiring correctly.  :-)

Well I have looked at all the suggestions, but in my layout, I need to be able to have non-derailing work if the 3-way is in the L or R position and I am entering the switch from the opposite position. For example: I exited to the R and am returning on the L branch. Wiring the switch for an automatic throw to the full opposite position won't work without some significant additional electronics. What I got from talking to the head designer (Steve) at Ross was that to get full non-derailing functionality for the 3-way is a pain in the butt and requires diodes & relays. I figure for $300 for that switch, it should come with all that is required to do the job, plus a complete wiring diagram. So, I returned the switch and used 2 Lionel switches for the L-C-R switching. They accommodate non-derailing in all directions. I went with the Ross 3-way in the first place due to space limitations, but I have made layout changes to make it all fit. Still, if someone has a wiring diagram for the FULL non-derailing function for the 3-way, I would very much like to see it.

Again, thank you for all the suggestions and help.

Ken