Scratch Builders-How I made steam/sand domes out of brass. Photos Inside. Updated 6/20!

I have a couple of lathes but you could use a 1/2 drill. I would use solid brass rod of a diameter at least as large as the base diameter. Using a drill motor you could shape the dome using files then use various grits of sandpaper until you get the desired finish. The base of the dome will be flat when you cut it off from the rest of the rod so you will have to shape the base with files or a Dremel to make it fit the boiler.

Pete

Pete, thanks.

I hadn't thought of that and it may be a lot easier than soldering all those little pieces together.

Your method would also allow me to round off the top to the sides much easier.

If you have a drill press that might be a better option as you won't have to deal with securing the drill motor. Before I got my machine tools I did a lot of work with just a drill motor. Just takes patience as you won't be able to remove material as fast as you can with a proper lathe and shaped cutting bits.

Pete

You might try an auto parts store and look at their brass freeze plug selections. The come in a lot of diameters and some have deep shoulders that could be dremeled to the correct boiler radius.  Just a thought.

That's an outstanding idea, I have some in my workbench from my drag racing days.  I'll see what I can come up with.

Umm - that was my very first dome.  It cannot be done on a lathe, because it is oblong - maybe oval in shape.  It was a very long time ago, but I think I simply hand- filed a block of brass.

The bottom, or skirt, is just a piece of .020 brass cut to shape and clenched by the dome. If you need a fillet, that can be done with solder or body putty.  You may find that no fillet is required to get a very realistic bottom.

Most Scale Craft models do not have this skirt - I add them.  I also add riveted skirts to Lobaugh tank car domes - really jazzes them up!

First attempt at domes -also fireboxes, cabs, cylinder saddles, stacks, smokeboxes - originally a CLW/Scale Craft kit.

So, you just used a course file to get the shape and then finer ones to get the finish you want.  Got it.

I think that'll be easier than soldering pieces.  Plus, I like the fillet idea.

Thanks

Bob,

Assume you make smoke stacks on a lathe?  I've had a heck of a time getting the correct taper.

Nice FEF-1.  This is the one with the sprung drivers?

86TA are you doing the FEF1 with the original all round domes? Are you modifying an existing locomotive. Is it brass ?

If the dome is round, I would do as Norton suggested. If it is oblong do it like Bob 2 suggested. I would probably build an oblong from sheet brass soldered together and filed. Brass bar stock would be cool to work with though.

Ron 

Here's what I'm building-photo copy righted by UPHS. 

Here's a few quick pics:

My stack needs some work-need to shorten it up slightly and some other things.  It's the correct diameter for a 'Little 800' but is to tall.

I'm currently building the front out of brass and PSC parts.  Takes a lot of time...

I got some good ideas from you all, so I'll finish the front of this thing and get cracking on the domes.

I am officially impressed.  Yes, stacks are made on a lathe.  Good used lathes are available for under $500.  Get the biggest one your wife will allow in the garage, with three jaw and collets.

When buying brass bar, get leaded brass, or "free cutting" brass.  Don't be tempted to use an old piece of marine bronze or something.  And buy new files - good ones.

When you finish that, you will be ready to attempt scratch building.  It is very satisfying to know you can build any steam model you want.

The work looks great! It will be one tough looking locomotive.

The nice thing about doing your own work, if you don't like what you've done, you can tear it up and do it over. I have to do that all the time. It's also good to walk away from it for a day and come back with a fresh perspective.

Keep it up!

Ron

Nice work!

Could you please explain how you filled in the large hole where the double smoke stacks were.  That is a large opening and you did a great job filling it in.  That also goes for the area where the sand/steam dome was.

Thanks in advance,

Steve

Since that model is brass, it looks like he simply used some sheet brass, bent it, cut it to fit properly, then soldered it in place. Afterwards, filed and sanded the solder joints.

Very nice job, too.

It is actually fairly difficult to get a patch like that perfect.  I use an underlay of brass, attached with flathead brass screws, then carefully shim and screw the patch to that.  Then liquid flux is applied, and solder is allowed to flow by using a pencil torch.

Then screwheads are filed flush, and any errors are filed or filled.

It does look like he merely fitted the patches, as Hot Water says.  He is an artist.

Dittos of admiration for those clean patches...not easy..

Ron, thanks.  Your CF looks great.  Can't wait to see more.

Steam Guy, I did pretty much what How Water said.  I made a template from masking tape, rolled the brass sheet to match boiler curvature, transferred tape template to brass and carefully cut it.  Looking back, it may have been easier to make a whole new boiler.

Thanks for all the nice comments.  As bob2 said, I love the thought of having locomotives I've always wanted without being dependent on the manfs.  Plus, you can build anything you want.  

Very interesting work. That is a whole endeavor I've never tried but, it looks like fascinating work.