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48 replies

soldering irons

S smilesrsOGR Forum Member DIGITAL SUBSCRIBER

My old Weller soldering iron finally bit the dust and needs to be replaced.  I was wondering what soldering irons or stations some of you are using and with both positive and negative results will be appreciated.  I have moderate soldering skills and looking to do more upgrade on my older locos and passenger cars.  I also like the challenges of rebuilding and upgrading my fleet and the more seasoned items you can find in our hobby that need to be reborn.  I value the knowledge and experience of the all you members here on the forum. You are a Great resource to me with my railroad and I know to the others as well. Thanks

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T TrainLarryOGR Forum Member

John,

At 70 watts input power, it would seem that your unit is designed for circuit board work, and may not have the power to do larger jobs. What is your experience with the unit in soldering parts such as a roller pickup with a large mass that would act like a heat sink?

Nice unit at a good price if it can do the job of higher power units.

 

Larry

gunrunnerjohngunrunnerjohnOGR Forum Member SUPPORTING MEMBERDIGITAL SUBSCRIBER

Larry, when you're talking about soldering irons, IMO one size doesn't really fit all.

 

I use the Hakko for my bench work for wiring, circuit boards, etc.  95% of my soldering is accomplished with that iron.  You'd be surprised how much heat you can get out of a 70W iron.  For stuff that requires more heat, I use the 100/140W Weller gun.  I broke it out yesterday to solder some brass tubing for a smoke unit installation.

 

I don't know of any 100W or more soldering irons or stations at a reasonable price that would be suitable for all tasks.

gunrunnerjohngunrunnerjohnOGR Forum Member SUPPORTING MEMBERDIGITAL SUBSCRIBER

I use a fine point tip for most of my work, I can change to a small chisel tip for heavier work.  Typically, if I need the larger tip, I usually just grab the soldering gun.  I do a lot of wiring and circuit board work, so the pointed tip works well for most of my uses.

 

The gun can be had for $30-40, and I've never come across any task that it wouldn't handle.  If I need more than 140 watts for soldering something, it's time to get out my propane torch.

 

I recommend care when selecting the soldering station, good tools are worth the price.  I made the mistake of first buying an off-brand soldering station and I regretted it.  It quickly got retired and I decided to bite the bullet and get the Hakko.  I don't regret the choice, it's just a lot more pleasant to use good tools.  I have the off-brand one as a backup if I ever need it.

F feetOGR Forum Member SUPPORTING MEMBER
Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

I don't know anything about the Yihua soldering stations.  The specs for this one is 45 watts, I like the Hakko because it has 70 watts and holds the temperature right on.  I also like the fact that I can calibrate the tip temperature so it's spot-on to what the display reads.

 

Thanks John, i can calibrate this station too, and it has a temp display on it. It appears to be a well made unit.

illinoiscentralillinoiscentralOGR Forum Member SUPPORTING MEMBER

I have a different Hakko than bluelinec, I think its no longer made.

 

We use Hakko at work for adding thru hole components on circuit boards and some cable assemblies.

 

I like the interchangeable tips, but I will admit the initial outlay can be costly. Some vendor had a two-for-one sale on Hakko when it first came out, and I went in with CharlieT. Not sure if he really got the use out of it that I did.

gunrunnerjohngunrunnerjohnOGR Forum Member SUPPORTING MEMBERDIGITAL SUBSCRIBER

The benefit of 63/37 is that it is eutectic, which means that it changes from liquid to solid at a single temperature, 60/40 is non-eutectic and has a temperature range where it's a pasty mess.  If you move the joint during the solidification, you will probably get a cold solder joint.  The eutectic alloy greatly reduces the possibility of cold solder joints as it goes directly from liquid to solid at a single temperature.  Also, the melting point of 63/37 is the lowest of common solder alloys at 361 °F.  60/40 melts (and solidifies) in the range of 361–374 °F.

 

 

CharlieCharlieOGR Forum Member
Originally Posted by illinoiscentral:

I have a different Hakko than bluelinec, I think its no longer made.

 

We use Hakko at work for adding thru hole components on circuit boards and some cable assemblies.

 

I like the interchangeable tips, but I will admit the initial outlay can be costly. Some vendor had a two-for-one sale on Hakko when it first came out, and I went in with CharlieT. Not sure if he really got the use out of it that I did.

Hello Micheal, good to hear from you.

 

I just saw this post and will echo what everyone else said about the Hakko. Working with the Hakko has been an absolute pleasure.

 

I came from a Weller station that I "thought" was fine. After I tried the Hakko I was hooked. Maybe the best piece of advice I can give is that if you in the market for a quality soldering station try the Hakko and you will not be sorry.

 

Charlie

KerriganKerriganOGR Forum Member
gunrunnerjohn posted:

The Hakko FX888D is less than $100, and it's a tool that will last you for many years.  I think it's well worth the minimal investment.

I'm seeing a HAKKO 191 temperature tester on "that auction site" ... it comes with 10 "testing sensors" ... is this a piece-a-junk or a good deal?  Does the 10 testers mean that after using it 10 times one needs to buy more "testing sensors?"  I notice it is only listed as a C* measuring, not F* ... are they all just in C* degree measurement?

Last edited by Kerrigan
L longbow57caOGR Forum Member

Hello My Friends, The soldering irons I like is called American Beauty or www.americanbeautytools.com.  I think they are the best solder irons you can buy they can be expensive too. But do a lot of soldering I have the best you can buy in solder irons. I also have Weller solder guns too as backup . The American Beauty will last you a life time and longer. They have good selection of different wattage solder irons for different applications of what you need. They are professional grade soldering irons. Thanks longbow57ca.

gunrunnerjohngunrunnerjohnOGR Forum Member SUPPORTING MEMBERDIGITAL SUBSCRIBER

No offense longbow57ca, but let's agree to disagree with your assessment of their soldering irons.  Since we're talking soldering stations, I picked the one that's closest to the Hakko FX888D for comparison, the Model V36GL3 60 Watt Industrial Grade Soldering Station.  It's basically twice the price of the Hakko FX888D, so you're right about them being expensive.  However, IMO, that's where the "right" ends.

The Hakko has a real temperature display that is actually displaying the actual tip temperature.  In addition, you have provisions for calibrating the tip temperature when you change tips or handles.  The American Beauty has an un-calibrated analog dial and makes this statement in their user's manual.

The proper setting will be application dependent and
determined through trial and error or by measuring tip
temperature using an external device.

Say what?  I'm soldering some delicate SMT components to a PCB and I'm supposed to guess at the tip temperature?  How about holding the temperature as you work, I don't see any provision to keep the temperature constant while you work with varying heat loads.  With the Hakko, you get an instant feedback of the true tip temperature, and you can see if it varies. 

Truthfully, I don't see how these two products are anywhere close to equal, and the superior product would clearly be the Hakko soldering station.

cjackcjackOGR Forum Member DIGITAL SUBSCRIBER
Kerrigan posted:
gunrunnerjohn posted:

The Hakko FX888D is less than $100, and it's a tool that will last you for many years.  I think it's well worth the minimal investment.

I'm seeing a HAKKO 191 temperature tester on "that auction site" ... it comes with 10 "testing sensors" ... is this a piece-a-junk or a good deal?  Does the 10 testers mean that after using it 10 times one needs to buy more "testing sensors?"  I notice it is only listed as a C* measuring, not F* ... are they all just in C* degree measurement?

C times 9/5 plus 32 equals F

gunrunnerjohngunrunnerjohnOGR Forum Member SUPPORTING MEMBERDIGITAL SUBSCRIBER
BradFish1 posted:

What's the best source for the 63/37?  I ordered the Chinese calibrator from Ebay  you recommended. I always enjoy your threads since I learn something new with each one.

Thanks.   I confess that I haven't bought solder in a while, I'm still working on two 1 pound rolls I got some time back.  I'd just plug it into Google, Kester 63/37 Rosin Core, and I find this is a good price: Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .031" 1 lb. Spool

Slightly better price, .031 diameter, eBay #: 322310408145, and for .015" diameter, use eBay #: 351777770333

PLCProf posted:

For mental calculations, double the C temp, subtract 10 percent and add 32. Easier than multiplying by 9 and dividing by 5.

100 *2 =200, subtract 10% = 180, add 32 = 212.

Very clever, I'm keeping that in mind.  I've always done it the long way!

Gilly@N&W posted:

I use this.. Weller

Really simplifies things not having to deal with a power cord around the layout.

 A butane iron is not really that useful doing delicate soldering, you have very little temperature regulation.  I can see the damage I'd do with one of these on a PCB.

Last edited by gunrunnerjohn
Gilly@N&WGilly@N&WOGR Forum Member DIGITAL SUBSCRIBER
gunrunnerjohn posted:
Gilly@N&W posted:

I use this.. Weller

Really simplifies things not having to deal with a power cord around the layout.

 A butane iron is not really that useful doing delicate soldering, you have very little temperature regulation.  I can see the damage I'd do with one of these on a PCB.

Yeah, I just use it for wire. When it comes to PCBs, I leave that to someone who knows what they're doing. There is a world of difference between Electrical and Electronics. I'm very comfortable in my little electrical world.

rtr12rtr12OGR Forum Member SUPPORTING MEMBERDIGITAL SUBSCRIBER
cjack posted:

Hmm...

Interesting... C times 10/5 minus 1/10 C plus 32, eh?

And I always find these threads cost me money and where to sell my Wellers...

I have a steady supply line open to the Far East from following all these threads around here. Fortunately, most are free shipping. And these things are all usually much less than buying trains. 

PLCProf's formula for C to F is a very good one as well. New to me. I am going to write that down and put a copy on the work bench in anticipation of the arrival of the Hakko calibration tool that this thread has forced me into ordering... 

KerriganKerriganOGR Forum Member
rtr12 posted:
cjack posted:

Hmm...

Interesting... C times 10/5 minus 1/10 C plus 32, eh?

And I always find these threads cost me money and where to sell my Wellers...

I have a steady supply line open to the Far East from following all these threads around here. Fortunately, most are free shipping. And these things are all usually much less than buying trains. 

PLCProf's formula for C to F is a very good one as well. New to me. I am going to write that down and put a copy on the work bench in anticipation of the arrival of the Hakko calibration tool that this thread has forced me into ordering... 

Yeah.  Darn these guys!  I had to order one as well ..... :-)

cjackcjackOGR Forum Member DIGITAL SUBSCRIBER
rtr12 posted:
cjack posted:

Hmm...

Interesting... C times 10/5 minus 1/10 C plus 32, eh?

And I always find these threads cost me money and where to sell my Wellers...

I have a steady supply line open to the Far East from following all these threads around here. Fortunately, most are free shipping. And these things are all usually much less than buying trains. 

PLCProf's formula for C to F is a very good one as well. New to me. I am going to write that down and put a copy on the work bench in anticipation of the arrival of the Hakko calibration tool that this thread has forced me into ordering... 

Actually I made a mistake in commenting on PLCProf's formula...

It's C times 10/5 minus 1/10 of 10/5 C plus 32 equals F

rtr12rtr12OGR Forum Member SUPPORTING MEMBERDIGITAL SUBSCRIBER
cjack posted:
rtr12 posted:
cjack posted:

Hmm...

Interesting... C times 10/5 minus 1/10 C plus 32, eh?

And I always find these threads cost me money and where to sell my Wellers...

I have a steady supply line open to the Far East from following all these threads around here. Fortunately, most are free shipping. And these things are all usually much less than buying trains. 

PLCProf's formula for C to F is a very good one as well. New to me. I am going to write that down and put a copy on the work bench in anticipation of the arrival of the Hakko calibration tool that this thread has forced me into ordering... 

Actually I made a mistake in commenting on PLCProf's formula...

It's C times 10/5 minus 1/10 of 10/5 C plus 32 equals F

That's no problem, easily fixed. I thought you were going to say there was a problem with my Asian supply line. 

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