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I'm redesigning the switching yard in my new layout for the... fourth time now I think.

 

I'm having a problem "stacking" multiple right-hand turnouts, one after the other. Trying to use Lionel 6-5022 manual switches.

 

The switch mechanism interferes with the turnout rail on the previous switch, so I either have to use a 1/2 straight, which wastes a LOT of room, or a ~2" cut piece, which still wastes a lot of room. It's a matter of being able to fit 4 rails vs. 3.

 

Are there any O27 switches out there, that won't break the bank, that can be stacked directly?

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I think the best/closest way to do this is to use switch of the opposite throw to start the yard and then connect all of the other opposite throw switches to the "out" side by connecting the through sections to the out of the first switch and create your ladder tracks from there.  I'm looking for a photo/diagram.

 

yard tracks

This is a photo I pulled up from Google.  Note the latter tracks on the right hand side of the photo.  The first switch is a left turn out.  The succeeding switches are right turnouts with all of the "straights" tied together.  Last run of the ladder is just a curved track to bring all of them back to parallel.

Last edited by chuck

I have some old O-27's I picked up cheap at a train show.  I'll play around with them tonight.  

 

All of the other switches I've used (Gragraves, Lionel O-22, FastTrack, Ross) all work the expected way BUT they have a very different foot print and you can sometimes swap the side the switch stand is on.  O-27 is "odd"

That issue is due to the footprint of the switch.  If you obtained them cheap and are willing to do some work the base can be cut.  That may not work in your example because the mechanism is located right about where 9 o clock appears in your picture.  Another alternative is to place a spacer track between each switch.  These can be easily constructed by sacrificing a single straight track for the rails.

Does anyone know if the old Lionel 1024 would correct this problem. It has a different footprint than the 1022/ 5022, but it still may have the same issue.

 

Alternately, if you eliminated the 3rd switch (from the top of your drawing, including the lead) and then added a left hand switch to the first "rung" of your ladder yard, wouldn't that just cost you about a foot of siding length?

 

Finally, if you don't have the switches already, I would like to recommend looking at the postwar 1022s. These have the same footprint as the 5022, but they cut power to the route that isn't in use. They can be had for dirt cheap, especially if the indicator is missing (repros are available).

 

Hope this helps,

 

J White

 

I looked at the switches in my spare box.  Lionel O-27 would require serious modifications to try and get this to work.  

 

There are some older O-27 style switches that have a better foot print but you can't move the switch stands.  O-22 is possibly the best choice or the K-Line replacement (if you can find it).  The switches that would allow closer spacing between tracks have the disadvantage of being much longer and eat up space (length) even faster (aka O-72 or #104).  Sorry.

I took an approach similar to ed h when faced with packing more tracks in a limited width yard.  I had some 1122E switches that the non-derail function had died on.  I cut and modified the turnout sides to reduce the distance between tracks in the yard.

Still had to use from 2" to 1/2 track spacers to allow for the switch footprints, but I was able to fit 8 yard tracks on a 2 1/2' wide section.  Long range plans were to eventually add a bench to lengthen the yard, and add/modify uncoupler magnets on each track, but ended up moving and haven't rebuilt the layout (yet).

Final Layoutmodified lionel o27yard area

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  • Final Layout
  • modified lionel o27
  • yard area

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