Standard Gauge Switches

MTH STD-42 switches are fine. They can be track or aux powered.

Old Lionel switches are cheaper at about $25 each, but often need work.

American flyer wide gauge switch are rarer but have fewer problems.

Ross are nice but too rich for me.

totrainyard posted:

MTH STD-42 switches are fine.

Thank you.  Of course, my wallet is happy to know that!  My inclination was to go with the STD-72 switches though.  I'll go with the 42's but I have a 381E and 392E.  I may have a 400E by Christmas.  I've been told to avoid STD-42 curves with the larger engines.  Any concern with the switches? 

beachhead2 posted:

totrainyard posted:

MTH STD-42 switches are fine.

Thank you.  Of course, my wallet is happy to know that!  My inclination was to go with the STD-72 switches though.  I'll go with the 42's but I have a 408E and 392E.  I may have a 400E by Christmas.  I've been told to avoid STD-42 curves with the larger engines.  Any concern with the switches? 

All those engines will take the 42" curves and switches. That's all that was available back before the war, so the trains were made to handle it. However, they look much better on the 72" curves, as well as the 72" switches. As for the quality of the switches, you get what you pay for. When I was designing my layout a few years ago, I researched the different brands, and decided it was worth the extra $$ to go with Ross 72" switches. They perform flawlessly, and it was money well-spent. Buy the best, and you'll only buy once. 

John

Im With John, what good are $50 switches if the train dont operate well?  You need to read up on the issues folks have, and consider what you plan to own/run. If you are sticking with Lionel,  then the MTH switches/originals might be fine.  If you are running expensive original trains, then invest with Ross.

beachhead2 posted:

I've never used standard gauge switches but I want to buy two for a basic siding on a Christmas layout.  It's a loop of STD-72 USA track.  I looked at some old threads and Ross switches are recommended.  However, I really don't want to spend $350 on a couple of switches for a siding on a seasonal layout.  Are the MTH switches really that bad?  I like the pre-war look and I really want to stick to it if possible.  And I like the price.  Also, if Jim Z chimes in, I saw what looked like MTH switches on the video he posted this week so I'd like to know his thoughts.  Thanks.

I have two pairs of MTH 42” diameter switches.  They work fine for me.  I run Original and MTH equipment. (AF, Ives’s and Lionel. I like the automatic non derailing feature. I have not had any derailment problems with Lionel or Ives rolling stock.

I have a few AF passenger  cars that occasionally derail. These AF cars which have wheels that are not fixed to the axle.  If they move out of gauge they can get caught on switch guards. The same goes for AF freight cars. For the freight cars, I used CA to permanently glue the wheels to the AF axles at the correct (Narrowest ) gauge.

Note that there is no quality problem with the AF cars, the original American Flyer switches had a pivoting section that provided continuous rail in either straight or curved throw. See the photo.

I wouldn't hesitate on using the MTH switches. If I build another layout I would use them again.

Jim Z

Guys, thank you.  I appreciate it.  Again, I'm not talking about my permanent layout here.  I only run reproduction stuff (although to me they're very expensive!) and no AF.  It sounds like a couple of MTH switches will work for a simple siding to park some trains at Christmas time.  Thank you very much!

hello

if all you need is for a siding I have two lt and two rt manual switch's  you can have for 5.00 ea plus shipping

kevin 

kwisor@sc.rr.com

Kevin, I sent you an email.

hello I have not see a email yet 

kwisor@sc.rr.com

kevin

I cut and pasted it.  Sent again.  Check your spam/junk folder if you have one.  If you still don't see it, check my profile for my email and shoot me a message.  Thanks.

hello 

I sent you a email

kevin

hello 

I don't know if you got my email or not here is my ph# call me 

kevin

904-813-4401

SGMA members were heavily involved in the design and testing process of the Ross Standard Gauge switches.  Several prototypes were farmed out to SGMA members who put them through numerous test runs with every SG locomotive members had.   In the end, the Ross switches operated so flawlessly that the prohibition in SGMA's module construction standards against having any switches located in our outside 87 mainline was modified to allow Ross switches, and only Ross switches, to be incorporated into the 87 mainline.  

One thing of note, Ross switches come with LGB switch motors which cannot be operated on track current.  To overcome that limitation, I recommend use of the aftermarket PIKO switch controller which was designed to operate LGB switch motors.   This controller will take AC or DC current and covert it to the precise current needed to operate up to four LGB switch motors.

Bob Nelson

I like the look of original and MTH standard gauge switches, but they can cause headaches.  My compromise is to install Ross switches on all running tracks, and tinplate switches in yards and sidings.  That way trains run reliably on the main loops, and any derailments occur just on sidings or yards.  Test your MTH switches before installation.  A fair number have mechanical and electrical issues even when new.  BTW, our (USA Track LLC) Super Standard track looks fantastic with the Ross switches!  :-)

Kirk Lindvig (standardgaugetrack@gmail.com)