I plan to run a 12 volt and 4.5 volt DC bus around the layout and use suitcase connections. In the past I have used channel locks to crimp these. Is there a better alternative under $15?
Original Post
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Let me give you some advice. A poor crimp can ruin your day - this day, the next day, and lots of future days. It can be hard to find, fail intermittently, and not show up for awhile. Don't scrimp on the proper tool for crimping suitcase connectors. If you don't want to pay for the right tool, borrow it.
I use the Klein linesman pliers (on the left). It will cost you a lot more than $15, but will be worth it. I borrowed and tried the 2 channel-lock type tools on the right, but they didn't feel right to me (too much play). My hands aren't particularly strong, so the proper crimping angle and positioning are important.
Best of luck,
George
Attachments
Images (2)
- For suit case clamping the best pliers are specially made for parallel action as they close.
- Angular closing as with any conventional pliers can tilt the slide in crimping thingie and you have to mess with it. aggh!!
- Micro.Mark has three parallel pliers the best are either #85932 or #86632 around $22. ( many M.M tools are undersize)
- Conventional pliers kinda can work however every bent tab can make you wish you had parallel pliers.
- I use the E-9 BM series from from 3-M but I only see Radwell has it now at $102.77 and I do not see it listed on 3-M site.
- Amazon shows a nice undercut one specially made for the insulation displacement connectors. Model E-9Y @ $39.99
I just "unlock" slip joint pliers and crimp with those.
John
Agreed that pressing straight down on the metal tab into the plastic housing is less likely to cut part of the wire, not as easy with linesman pliers. Generally I prefer to buy higher quality tools, but for this application, an inexpensive 8" groove joint pliers (adjusted for near parallel clamping in the 3/8" to 1/2" range) will do the job correctly. Here is one example for about $8. Most home centers, hardware stores and online retailers have something similar. I would suggest avoiding the ones with the V-groove in the jaws for this application.
Something like this should help.
These look to be the best...
@Tommy44 posted:Something like this should help.
Actually, that's designed for crimping insulated and non-insulated connectors like those shown below, not suitcase or IDC (insulation displacement connectors) types.
The Harbor Freight item looks promising.
George
Attachments
Images (2)
@cjack posted:These look to be the best...
Chuck, those do look like nice pliers, but they have a 3/8" jaw opening. The suitcase connectors I have are ~1/2" OD from the bottom of the housing to the top of the deactivated position of the metal tab. Do these come in a larger jaw opening like 5/8" or so?
Thanks for all the help. I may need to stick with the channel locks.
I have been using one of these like Steve suggests and George shows on the right in his picture. As Steve mentions, the issue with the parallel jaw pliers is their opening is not sufficient for the suitcase connectors (need to be 1/2 inch or so). All the ones on amazon and micro mark appear to be too small a mouth opening and I found nothing at Harbor freight.
This tool from Harbor Freight has been good for the crimping connectors like George shows.
Attachments
Images (2)
@SteveH posted:Chuck, those do look like nice pliers, but they have a 3/8" jaw opening. The suitcase connectors I have are ~1/2" OD from the bottom of the housing to the top of the deactivated position of the metal tab. Do these come in a larger jaw opening like 5/8" or so?
Hard to find. The channel locks might be the best choice.
The 3-M parallel jaw model E-9 has interchangeable jaw tips which can be flipped out for different size insulation displacement connectors.
Yes, they cost more but the process is perfect and painless. I use the yellow electrical tape for a better grip.
Attachments
Images (1)
I avoid suitcase connectors like they’ve got the plaque,......they are not worth a darn period. Seen so many failures and tail chasing because of them. Yes they’re easy to use, but they also fail easily too,....I’d use a butt crimp long before I ever consider using a suit case connector, and I’m not really crazy about them either. Solder & heat shrink is a guaranteed service.
Pat
These have worked great, worth a few $ more. Terminals aren't cheap any more(what is)
.
Attachments
Images (1)
@harmonyards posted:I avoid suitcase connectors like they’ve got the plaque,......they are not worth a darn period. Seen so many failures and tail chasing because of them. Yes they’re easy to use, but they also fail easily too,....I’d use a butt crimp long before I ever consider using a suit case connector, and I’m not really crazy about them either. Solder & heat shrink is a guaranteed service.
Pat
Hi Pat, one thing I have to note is much of what we discuss here is subjective. Any tool, any design, any material, is only as good as the person using it or or the environment in which something is used.
In my benchwork world I have seen very poor soldered connections, misaligned 3/4" plywood joints, kinked track joints, crossed wire, loose crimped terminals; name it, somebody can mess it up.
Years ago we had a U-Haul business and saw insulation displacement connectors (suit case connectors) smashed, buggered and ruined by D.I.Y. customers using pliers. It happens.
On client jobs we only soldered connections with heat shrink tubing. As you say, that is the gold standard (IME too).
On my present build I have sought to push the boundaries of commonly rejected practices. Among 5.5mm plywood decking, OSB decking, modules totally glued w/o any fasteners at all, legless platforms, non adhered subroadbed, and other reaches, there are an assortment of wire connecting devices used. Among them, IDC aka suitcase connectors.
There are several hundred connections with at least 50 of them IDC installed with parallel jaws.
I have yet to experience electrical failure with any RR application nor with any U-Haul connections we made.
One thing to consider, there are many different size IDCs available. Down side is their molded size marking are very hard to read. It is not just color distinction. If you hold them up to a strong light you will see the applicable wire ga.
If someone would use the wrong size they can only blame themself.
So, as has been said "It's not what you have, it's how you use it".
@Craftech posted:I just "unlock" slip joint pliers and crimp with those.
John
Agreed. A quality set of good ole slip joint pliers on the wider setting work just fine. I also have several dozen suitcase connectors on my layout and they've provided reliable power delivery for 16 years and counting.
No" magic" pliers needed.
I also agree with Tom. Using the appropriate sized connectors is important as well. Don't try to splice an 18 guage feeder into a 14 guage suitcase on a 14 guage bus. I keep bus and feeders for each given application the same size wire guage for this very reason. Not a voltage drop in sight.
The nice thing is you can slip a power/common drop in at any time during the construction of your layout. I can add accessories or track feeders into my layout just as easy today as when my layout was bare benchwork.
@Tom Tee posted:Hi Pat, one thing I have to note is much of what we discuss here is subjective. Any tool, any design, any material, is only as good as the person using it or or the environment in which something is used.
In my benchwork world I have seen very poor soldered connections, misaligned 3/4" plywood joints, kinked track joints, crossed wire, loose crimped terminals; name it, somebody can mess it up.
Years ago we had a U-Haul business and saw insulation displacement connectors (suit case connectors) smashed, buggered and ruined by D.I.Y. customers using pliers. It happens.
On client jobs we only soldered connections with heat shrink tubing. As you say, that is the gold standard (IME too).
On my present build I have sought to push the boundaries of commonly rejected practices. Among 5.5mm plywood decking, OSB decking, modules totally glued w/o any fasteners at all, legless platforms, non adhered subroadbed, and other reaches, there are an assortment of wire connecting devices used. Among them, IDC aka suitcase connectors.
There are several hundred connections with at least 50 of them IDC installed with parallel jaws.
I have yet to experience electrical failure with any RR application nor with any U-Haul connections we made.
One thing to consider, there are many different size IDCs available. Down side is their molded size marking are very hard to read. It is not just color distinction. If you hold them up to a strong light you will see the applicable wire ga.
If someone would use the wrong size they can only blame themself.
So, as has been said "It's not what you have, it's how you use it".
And that’s all good, it is only my opinion, but the subjective side for me is, if I caught one of my guys attempting to use a crummy, lazy way out like a suitcase connector, I’d subject them to a beating with a hammer, right before I fired them.....if a trailer comes in for service of the lights, and I see a bunch of suitcase connectors, step 1 is to notify the customer we’re ripping out all existing wiring and start over. If not, it doesn’t get worked on at my place.....BUT, to each his own,...and if y’all see their purpose, have at it,....me personally, H-E double toothpicks NO.....😉
Pat
@harmonyards posted:And that’s all good, it is only my opinion, but the subjective side for me is, if I caught one of my guys attempting to use a crummy, lazy way out like a suitcase connector, I’d subject them to a beating with a hammer, right before I fired them.....if a trailer comes in for service of the lights, and I see a bunch of suitcase connectors
Pat
Phew, sure glad I'm only using them on my layout, and not on a trailer 
.........
Anybody need a happy pill?
@RickO posted:Phew, sure glad I'm only using them on my layout, and not on a trailer
It’s a pride thing for me Rick, clean, precise work is what’s kept the lights on in my shop going on 35+ years. I’m not knocking anybody that uses them, ......it’s just me personally,.......as I’ve mentioned before, I’ve seen so many failures attributed to them, and fortunately, I’m not that shop that uses them, I’m the guy that fixes them correctly when they fail,....if you do clean, precise work, they’ll beat a path to your door 365 days a year,...😉
Pat
