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This finally arrived today: πŸ™‚

IMG_20220506_102831

Some initial thoughts:

When I first picked it up at the post office, I was surprised by the size of the box it was in; I expected it to be much larger. The engine survived the trip with zero damage, so the shipping box was big enough. πŸ™‚

Taking it out of the box was like Christmas morning; very exciting. This thing is so cool; with its light, bell and other details. Hooked it up to my MRC 027 transformer; started a little slowly (guessing it hasn't been run for a while), but once it "warmed up" it was fine. Kinda noisy; that large, metal body is a real sound chamber. 😳

Since this is a "restored" piece, decals were used, not stamping, which is probably common (?)

I will look closer into this thing over the weekend; any suggestions as to lubrication points, etc.? I'm guessing it's pretty straightforward.

I can certainly see the allure of Standard Gauge... it's quite wonderful! 😊

Mark in Oregon

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Thanks!

Here is a picture of the "guts": I guess this is a slightly newer example, since the frame is not of the "u" type?

IMG_20220506_151220

Typically, what would be the correct light bulb for this unit? It's got a "430", but it doesn't work. I have tried a  #1447 (from my American Flyer spares) and that works, but the globe looks too small for this much larger engine...

Mark in Oregon

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Mark, Best estimate for timing on this Loco is 1917-1918. The 2 piece lightened frame, Die cast 8 spoke wheels, reversing switch mounting plate design, hook coupler with nibs, lighting post on the top... These are all clues to the dating. Im expecting the windows in the end doors to have brass plates that say "MADE BY THE LIONEL MFG CO." on them and the motor to have 9 field laminations, but you did not show either in the photos posted.

The hollow shell was indeed a resonator and amplifier of the sound!

@Rob English posted:

1. Best estimate for timing on this Loco is 1917-1918.

2. Im expecting the windows in the end doors to have brass plates that say "MADE BY THE LIONEL MFG CO." on them and the motor to have 9 field laminations...

3. The hollow shell was indeed a resonator and amplifier of the sound!

Hey Rob

Thanks for all your help with this; I obviously know zilch about Standard Gauge, so your information is greatly appreciated.

1. Wow; it's older than I would have imagined.

2. Yes, on both counts.

3. The motor itself is, I think, pretty quiet. There is a "chattering" which I think is due to the axle holes in the frame sides being slightly worn and a little enlarged.

I have ordered some replacement motor brushes; will changing these simply be a question of removing the screws that hold the caps (and wires) in place?

Thanks again. πŸ‘

Mark in Oregon

Another update (in case anyone is the slightest bit interested). πŸ™‚

The Riddle book arrived today: looks like a good one; thanks for the heads up.

I have been in contact with USA Track; Kirk emailed me the other day and he's waiting on a supplier before he can send me some track. In the meantime, I discovered that if I take 2 sections of Gargraves S gauge track (which I have plenty of) and lay them parallel to each other with 1/2" spacing between the ties, it makes almost a perfect 2 1/8" rail spacing. Here are a few lousy pictures:

IMG_20220507_135648

IMG_20220507_135656

The blue tape is just to hold everything in place.

Now that I can run the "33" (at least for about four and a half feet 😐 ) I am surprised by how quiet and smooth running it actually is.  It's almost disappointing; I figured part of the attraction to this old stuff would be the noise they make! πŸ˜„

Having a good time with this...

Mark in Oregon

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Last edited by Strummer

I'm finding that I'm having the most fun in standard gauges doing restorations.  Here's my latest project.  It's a 180-181-182 medium size passenger car set with an extra 180.  After studying these in Greenburg and Daly, I've determined the date must be in the 1914-1916 range.180-181-182

I have all of the parts except a few window strips.  Decals are on order from Radtains on eBay, and the maroon paint will be in my next order to Trainenamels.

Window strips are a problem.  Looking at photos, I see that the clerestory roofs with those tabs had the blue window shade inserts.  Does anyone know where I can find the blue shade material ?

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Standard Gauge sales began Nov 1906..#2&1 trolleys ...mid / later 1907 ..steamers 5& 6 ...and frieght were added.

1910 the first passenger cars were added,18,19&190...with knobs .

The real,sales pinch for standard gauge,,..which was not a standard ...and advertised as 2" gauge till 1913..was the,sectional track ... which was a big improvement over ribbon track used by thr other,American electric train manufactures .

Here is a video link to see a Lionel 1912 pulling the early knob 18,19& 190...all from 1910 ...and a thin rim 5 pulling some 10's series cars ..all circa 1908-9 ...

Running on the original split pin standard gauge track ..1908-1912.

Cheers Carey

https://youtu.be/c_-221KL1eE

@Strummer posted:

Hey Rob

Thanks for all your help with this; I obviously know zilch about Standard Gauge, so your information is greatly appreciated.

1. Wow; it's older than I would have imagined.

2. Yes, on both counts.

3. The motor itself is, I think, pretty quiet. There is a "chattering" which I think is due to the axle holes in the frame sides being slightly worn and a little enlarged.

I have ordered some replacement motor brushes; will changing these simply be a question of removing the screws that hold the caps (and wires) in place?

Thanks again. πŸ‘

Mark in Oregon

You bet. Supposed to be fairly easy but never is. Caps are interference fit, but getting them off without the tube moving can sometimes be challenging. Screw just hold wires on. Be gentle... the brass is thin wall and a little fragile.

@Strummer posted:

Although I've been involved in many different scales over the years, and my interest has been on "realistic" trains, I have always found the colors and charm of Standard Gauge to be most inviting. With that in mind, I just now purchased a restored (repainted) number 33, through Trainz. Here are a few pictures from eBay:

s-l400 [1)

s-l400

I think it will make a nice addition to the train room...😊

What should I know before I get in "too deep"? πŸ˜³πŸ™‚

Mark in Oregon

Mark,

Welcome to the shiny side of the hobby,

@Strummer posted:

Another update (in case anyone is the slightest bit interested). πŸ™‚

The Riddle book arrived today: looks like a good one; thanks for the heads up.

I have been in contact with USA Track; Kirk emailed me the other day and he's waiting on a supplier before he can send me some track. In the meantime, I discovered that if I take 2 sections of Gargraves S gauge track (which I have plenty of) and lay them parallel to each other with 1/2" spacing between the ties, it makes almost a perfect 2 1/8" rail spacing. Here are a few lousy pictures:

IMG_20220507_135648

IMG_20220507_135656

The blue tape is just to hold everything in place.

Now that I can run the "33" (at least for about four and a half feet 😐 ) I am surprised by how quiet and smooth running it actually is.  It's almost disappointing; I figured part of the attraction to this old stuff would be the noise they make! πŸ˜„

Having a good time with this...

Mark in Oregon

The wood ties cut quite a bit of the joyful clatter.

Steve

@Rob English posted:

Re: Changing motor brushes.

"You bet. Supposed to be fairly easy but never is. Caps are interference fit, but getting them off without the tube moving can sometimes be challenging. Screw just hold wires on. Be gentle... the brass is thin wall and a little fragile."

Thanks for the heads up. Do you mean the caps  are like a "friction-type" fit? The replacement brushes have arrived, but I don't want to muck things up.  After all, it's running pretty nicely now...

I love how basic and easy to disassemble this is; (4) screws and off the body comes...and it's a hundred(+) years old. I can see how this could become addictive!  😊

Mark in Oregon

@Strummer posted:

Thanks for the heads up. Do you mean the caps  are like a "friction-type" fit? The replacement brushes have arrived, but I don't want to muck things up.  After all, it's running pretty nicely now...

I love how basic and easy to disassemble this is; (4) screws and off the body comes...and it's a hundred(+) years old. I can see how this could become addictive!  😊

Mark in Oregon

Yes just so.  I would leave them be and keep the new brushes in reserve.

Well, that was interesting. Never to leave well enough alone, I decided to go ahead and replace the brushes. They were both very worn, so it was time.

The replacement brushes were far too "fat" in diameter to slip into the brass tubes. I didn't want to force anything but had to install something. I looked into my stash of stuff and it turns out the "shouldered" brushes for the later American Flyer S scale locomotives fit. πŸ™‚

They are overall a bit smaller, but due to the large coil springs they work just fine. This sure is a smooth runner... 😊

Mark in Oregon

PS: I could add here that the Gilbert coil springs are indentical to the Lionel original/replacement springs...FWIW.

Last edited by Strummer
@Strummer posted:

Well, that was interesting. Never to leave well enough alone, I decided to go ahead and replace the brushes. They were both very worn, so it was time.

The replacement brushes were far too "fat" in diameter to slip into the brass tubes. I didn't want to force anything but had to install something. I looked into my stash of stuff and it turns out the "shouldered" brushes for the later American Flyer S scale locomotives fit. πŸ™‚

They are overall a bit smaller, but due to the large coil springs they work just fine. This sure is a smooth runner... 😊

Mark in Oregon

PS: I could add here that the Gilbert coil springs are indentical to the Lionel original/replacement springs...FWIW.

All righty then... alls well that ends well!

@Rob English posted:

All righty then... alls well that ends well!

Indeed; thanks. This old thing is quite cool. 😊

Questions:

1. other than the center rail pick up(s), what is the difference between the motor on this "33" and the "Super Motor"?

2. what's the difference between the "33","38" and the "1911"; the "50" and "53"? Or the "10" and the "318"/"380"? I'm looking at the book by the TCA, but it doesn't really go into too much detail... although it's great to look at! πŸ™‚

IMG_20220512_103231206

Mark in Oregon

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@Strummer posted:

Indeed; thanks. This old thing is quite cool. 😊

Questions:

1. other than the center rail pick up(s), what is the difference between the motor on this "33" and the "Super Motor"?

2. what's the difference between the "33","38" and the "1911"; the "50" and "53"? Or the "10" and the "318"/"380"? I'm looking at the book by the TCA, but it doesn't really go into too much detail... although it's great to look at! πŸ™‚

IMG_20220512_103231206

Mark in Oregon

I'll leave the answers to your questions to others who are far more qualified than me.

However, there are other resources for reference materials...

While the book you pictured is an excellent starting point, a more definitive work is Greenberg's guide to standard gauge trains.  Still available from the author:  http://brinkmannpub.com/Page/stdGauge.html

If you want an extremely detailed compilation of Lionel standard gauge freight car variations, find a copy of Caryl Pettijohn's book.  I believe that he still has copies for sale, although he didn't have any with him at York.  You can access his contact info via the members' section of the TCA website.

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800-980-OGRR (6477)
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