Whats the best yet afordable Plywood to use for a base of a layout that will not cost a lot of money?

IMHO, tempered hardboard would be unsuitable because it has too much flex. Also, it would not hold screws well.

I would go with plywood.

What are the dimensions of the layout you are building?

Do you plan to frame the underside of the layout?

Is weight a consideration (does it have to be portable)?

Typically solid top train layouts require framing.

*The dimensions of the layout will be 42inches by 42inches I would prefer it to be portable.

Plywood! It isn't that heavy.

Look for Baltic Birch multi layer plywood. It will be much stronger than standard plywood due to more but thinner layers in equal thicknesses. Like CW points out if you go too thin it will have too much flex. If you find Baltic Birch test it for rigidity. Tempered hardboard is difficult to work with. Save it for structures like bridges.

 

Pete

Definitely plywood. A piece of 1/2" ply the size you specified should weigh about 20lbs, depending upon species.

Plywood!

I'd just use a piece of 1 1/2" foam board.  It's rigid, light weight and sound absorbing.  Frame it with  1" X 4" oak.

On my modules (for the club layout) I used 3/8" plywood over a 1 x 4 frame. They are pretty lightweight (I regularly carry one with each hand) and haven't warped or flexed much in the three years I've had them. They spend about 350 days a year in an unheated garage, so I think that's pretty good.

 

For a 42" wide area, I would add one center brace, so the longest span of plywood would only be 20ish inches. Before assembly, I would paint all the surfaces of the plywood (top, bottom, even the edges) to prevent moisture from causing it to warp. Might as well do the same with the frame while you have the paint out. A can of "oops" paint is really useful for this kind of stuff. Put two coats of whatever color you can find for cheap, and then do a finish coat of the color you like. For that area, most paint stores sell sample cans that hold about a cup of paint. Two would likely cover the top, and another one would probably do the sides of the framing that you will be able to see.

 

Even cheaper than the plywood is OSB. My Permanent layouts are made with 7/16" OSB, which is the same stuff most new construction roofs around here are made of so every lumber yard around has it. OSB has a smooth side and a rough side to it. I used the rough side on mine to give the paint just a touch of texture. (On a roof, you would use the rough side up so you don't slide off the roof, but that's another story...)

 

Hope this helps,

 

J White

 

Assembling the table with glue and screws will increase the strength considerably.

The thread asks:

Whats the best Plywood to use for a base of a layout?

 

I reply: Whatever plywood is on sale when you go to buy it...

 

SJS

 

He updated the question from the original post. We always use 3/4", 5 ply or 7 ply. If you buy the cheapest stuff it will warp. Its the foundation of your layout, so get some good stuff.

The cheapest 3/8" thick plywood you can get.

And buy the cheapest tires you can find for your car before making that road trip! Oh boy

norton gave the answer that is the most informative and educational. A Baltic Birch plywood of several layers is the best...not osb which has to be able to swell and contract more than plywood  - that's why it is good for wall and roof sheathing.

  Read is used by what several custom O gauge engine turntable makers use.......it's either a many ply plywood ( 7 or 9 or more)...some flat out say baltic birch.

 

      1/2 cdx plywood would be a good economical choice.

 

3/4" plywood is best and won't warp.  I've used 1/2" that warped.  For me, the next time I make another platform, I am going to use drywall with 1/2" plywood on top.  This may cut down on warping and will provide better mass for less vibration and noise.

I am curious why does everyone use such thick plywood and or framing for their bench work.  it seems to me that there isn't really much weight with a layout and just seems to me like its overkill just my 2 pennies

Even if you don't have to stand, sit, crawl, or walk on your layout, thin cheap plywood will warp. You don't won't your smooth track work to become uneven with dips and slopes, because it will cause derailments. It may not happen right away, but it will happen eventually. Build it strong, and heavy duty the first time, and you won't have to ever worry about it later.  

 

Really not that much weight? There's a lot more weight than you might think, especially when you start adding scenery.

Good bench substructure design enables the use of thin plywood. My layout has 180 square feet of inexpensive 3/8" thick plywood, and since it was built in 2008 it has not warped.

 

The substructure is 3' x 6' bench modules made of 1"x4" pine with 1"x4" supports across the 3' width 24" on center. The legs are 2"x3" fir and braced. The modules are clamped together, not bolted.

 

The plywood has a covering of 3/8" thick foam with a ground cover of sawdust put down in a liquid mixture of white glue and water. There is no doubt that the plywood has gotten wet while I was putting down the ground cover. Also, the 3' x 6' bench modules I use have supported my 200-pound weight without cracking.

 

I can lift every one of my 3'x6' lightweight bench modules without getting a hernia!

 

By the way, when I want some warping to occur to make the ground cover interesting, I put down some corrugated cardboard and wet it. It warps nicely as it dries, then I add ground cover.

 

 

If you're starting from scratch, why take a chance? Spend a few extra bucks now.