The Erie-Built Diesel

Here is the original Atlas plastic body - no grillework or doors:

Here are two more - the first is the lost-plastic nose, married to the roof with the ”snowplow” coaming.  The second shows a plastic side master with the resulting bronze side.

I can't offer any tips to your questions Bob, but I like your progress!

Looks great!

Wow! Kept the photos coming. Awesome work.

Those castings look very nice, Bob.

Jeff C

Thanks for the encouragement.  Here it is almost ready for the torch and solder operation.  Those bolt heads will disappear, some by grinding flat and others by opening the windows.  Soldering one of these monsters requires that all parts are joined solidly; there are six giant steel screws holding the roof on.

That unit behind it is a Jack Raymus E-7, shown below.  It got soldered together last year, and awaits only paint and handrails.  My next goal is some patterns like these Raymus sides so we can cast a few sides for the more common Adams E-7 models.  I plan to do them in polystyrene, or whatever the local hobby shop has in stock.

In my opinion, the most difficult part of this project is the nose art.  This is my first cut at it -soldered strips of .020 brass on a .010 plate, then attached with contact cement.  I need a better jig and six stripes, but this might work.

I did consider metal tape,  and may still try that.  Open to suggestions.

This would be a good situation for the use of a photo-etched part.  Say .010" nickel silver, with the grooves half-etched.  Or whatever thickness you like.  .010" is 1/2" at scale, so that would seem to be a nice compromise between thickness and flexibility for bending around the nose.  If you don't have a local-ish source for etching, PPD in the UK can do the work.  They do model railroad work all the time.

I know somebody that can do the cad for you .

Jim

that's not bad at all Bob. maybe the next attempt will be cleaner.

would it be out of line to suggest making it up out of styrene strips on a sheet?

Yes, because I plan to let the solder simulate the stainless.  But I did lay in a can of Alclad II, so plastic is a remote possibility.  I have more uniform strips of brass ready for attempt #2.

Thanks for the interest.  My friends at MTJ have not even noticed.

My next question - I was always a Scalecoat fan, but my, how things have changed.  For Milwaukee, I need suggestions on a good brand for both the maroon and orange.  I want them to "pop" - not like the K-Line cars.  Had K-Line not elected for a brownish maroon, I would have a string, including the Skytop.

Looking good Bob!

On artwork, I'd coñsider checking local schools/colleges/etc for a talented airbrush artist. When I was in school we longed for a shot at something like that rather than comming up with something just for the sake of something to be graded.

The airbrush folks at a local trade center did a lot of work for some of my later endevers when I lacked the time or equipment to achieve what I wanted. They worked cheaper on cool stuff... but I'm the tipping type, and the work was always great   (and formerly being good in graphics too, I can be a pretty hàrdnosed judge)

   À good airbrush artist can produce work you would have a hard time distinguishing from an actual photograph ..... and students work cheap, sometimes free + supplies.  Talk to teachers, but remember that those that can't excell, can at least teach. Ask to see work.

I was an airbrush artist once.  I was never good enough to do lettering.  We used a lot of frisket.

Etching nickel silver is a neat idea, but I think a cost/benefit study might indicate that the best course of action is to continue in the do it myself direction.  I will probably go for custom decals for the maroon on silver, but I will wait until I see how the simulated stainless looks.  Solder holds a polish for quite a long time - lots longer than brass.  And I can try that Alclad II, at eight bucks an ounce.

Bob you might want to try Bare Metal Foil for the stainless look its in the model car section.  For great looking Milwaukee paint I use Tru color and its about the best match for Milw colors. Just finishing up a Milwaukee MP15AC an Overland model used the tru color Milw orange and made the decals, I'll post pics when its done.

Thanks.  I gave some consideration to metal tape.  The stuff I have was used to protect the Fiberglas cowls on the 737 from erosion, and is a bit thick.

I might use it below the stainless corrugations, then put a maroon/clear decal over it.

I am surprised that this version of the Erie-Built has not been done in O scale yet.  I will risk reproducing what I think is an HO model.  It appears in those google search photo groups.

Here we go:,

Bob actually Atlas O offered the loco in 2005 or 06 in the Oly Hi scheme just as you pictured.

For stainless paint, you’ Want to look into one of these products...

https://youtu.be/rfLlmmu_rDg

Thanks!

-Mario

Hard to watch, but I got the idea via multiple fast forwards.  Never heard of K-color - will give it a shot.

I knew that Atlas did the Milwaukee paint scheme, but the only photos I have seen is without the corrugated stainless.  I asked them if they had done a "stick-on" for it, but no reply.

And I think I found who did the model in the photo - they specialize in Milwaukee decals.  More when they e-mail me. Edit: Streamstyle Graphics.  They actually etched the corrugations in nickel silver.  HO only.

Scale City Designs posted:

Bob actually Atlas O offered the loco in 2005 or 06 in the Oly Hi scheme just as you pictured.

Correct and there is a listing of an MILW A&B unit on da bay right now!

Right you are.  I found it, even though gremlins have hijacked my eBay.  I think my preliminary stainless looks better than theirs, but both are nowhere near as good as the streamstyles above.

Overland Pilot model.  Will be P:48 and new drive.

Jay

You didn't say pilot model over there (I don't think).  Story? Is there more than one?  Is it recent production, with good solder joints?

Two models (1 set).  Not recent.  Solder joints are fine (not early production).

The trailing unit is a production OMI model.  It is an unpainted PRR version and will be modified.  All of the drive components will be recycled.  Bob, check out the trucks.

A fine-looking machine - nice job!

Tom imported factory finished Milwaukee A/B/A units on roughly the same prototype so building a one off set in UP with UP detailing not that difficult for the artisans at Ajin Precision. It’s actually typical, I don’t believe these models were even advertised they only showed in one issue of the Overland Mail, I need to dig. Most of these late projects Tom did with Brian were super super low production runs and often times never advertised unless the builder made extras. The Milw units had catalog numbers, if APM did put those UP units together as a one off for an order I would believe that but pre-production “Pilot” with typical pilot errors it looks like a one off build for a client to me, I have a few models that were built to this sort of arrangement. They were done in HO at the same time frame 2002 I think . Opinion

https://www.brasstrains.com/cl...qquP402nDM1RQIfH6GaU

Man, Erik - I just lust after that model.  I have come to a semi stop with my bronze version, but note from your photo that my windows and snowplow roof are closer to the Milwaukee version above than to the UP that Jay posted.  Either way, these photos really help out, and I shall capture them for future use.

Still looking forward to ScaleCity's Milwaukee paint job.

Well, here is my final version of the stainless scallops and the anti-climber.  A long way to go, but you can see progress!  I have been side tracked with a 4-12-2, and tonight it gets firebox netting.  This thing is getting close to maroon and orange paint.

A craftsman...in the truest sense of the word. 

Mark in Oregon

By the way, Scott Mann was kind enough to sell me some E7 bodies, knowing what my intentions were.  I have cut the B unit sides loose, and now await word from my foundry guy as to whether we can do sand cast E7 sides for the Adams doorstops.

Bob2, you are doing a fantastic job. The Atlas engine is my favorite of all my diesels. It took a long time and some luck to get mine with the nose trim. Atlas charged an arm and legs for that model. Good luck and keep us posted. Don

I am getting there.  Orange is baked on; getting ready for maroon.

Callie Graphics will be doing the "cigar band".  She does amazing things, but it would be easier if she had some kind of sample to go by.  I will give her a template, and some basic info, but it would be great if I could find a flat decal or print.  Streamstyle had them, but are now out of stock, and didn't respond to my query.

Any hints out there?  Any railroad graphics sites I am unaware of?

I would suggest contacting the Milwaukee Road Historical Society, or the Milwaukee Public Library.  I would tend to believe that Streamstyle would have sourced the information form somewhere, and those are the two most likely places I can think of to ask.  

An alternative would be to purchase the HO set of etched parts from Bill Davis to use as a reference for creating new artwork.  

Jim

All good ideas.  Thanks.  Inquiry is in to the society.  I will ask Billy as well.

bob2 posted:

Well, here is my final version of the stainless scallops and the anti-climber.  A long way to go, but you can see progress!  I have been side tracked with a 4-12-2, and tonight it gets firebox netting.  This thing is getting close to maroon and orange paint.

Please, please, pretty please, glaze the windows...

I have a pair of dome cars that get glazing first.  Glazing scares me - everything has to fit perfectly, and then you cannot spill any glue.  That may be what stops my Skytop project,  I have no doubt that I can do the mullions, but fitting all that glass?  Yuk!  

But you are right - this thing would be relatively easy.

Well Bob, I gotta hand it to ya, there's no quit in you.  The models I'm working on (OMI) are being painted and detailed by Lee Turner.  I should be interesting to see what he comes up with.  Luckily, all my work will be concealed.

Jay

Wow Bob that’s beautiful 

Slowly making progress.  Still looking for artwork for the cigar band.  May have to do it myself - wouldn't be the first time.  Callie Graphics will do it on chrome vinyl. Really surprised there are no decals available.  Maybe I will check with Atlas.

That's really sharp, Bob!

Thanks.  I am now resigned to creating the artwork for the cigar band myself.  I have a little help from a fellow forumite.

I have done a serious search for the proper cursive font for the "Olympian Hiawatha" legends on the sides, and have come up with pretty much zilch, even from previous decal makers.  Streamstyle never got back to me, and I am not at all sure their version is accurate, anyway.  I will share what I come up with.

Bob hope you can come to O scale west and show them off.

Bob2, are you talking about the band under the stainless steel around the headlight? I checked my box of O scale decals and found only F and E unit decals from Microscale but no FM decals. Don

Of the three examples I can find in modeled form, none gets the nose artwork quite right.

The Overland HO models feature the wrong style script for the "Olympian Hiawatha" lettering.  But they have the best rendition of the "T H E   M I L W A U K E E   R O A D" lettering, which differs from the stand MILW block lettering.  Namely, the letters should be squarish and blocky, with rounded corners, when they curve.  For letters like the "O", "U", or "D" in the standard font, the curved parts are fully round.  Also, the "R" is noticeably top-heavy, unlike the standard font version.

The Streamstyle Graphics versions, both decal and etched applique, have very good renderings of the script lettering.  However, the "THE MILWAUKEE ROAD" lettering that wraps around the nose is the standard font rather than the squarish version.  The spacing is a bit too close as well.  The rest of the artwork looks very nice though, with regard to colors and all of the metal panel detail.

Lastly, the Atlas models mirror the Streamstyle Graphics, with a nice rendition of the script but wrong font for the nose lettering.

Zoomed in clip from the prototype - Don Ross photo:

Zoomed in clip from the Streamstyle Graphics decal - from their website, I presume the copyright is with them:

You nailed it!  I had not noticed the block lettering.

For the cursive, there is a hobby store that has "Hiawatha" in its name, and it looks like the correct font.  It matches Don's above.  I will ask them Monday if I can use it, and if they have a matching "Olympian."  

Jim, I can see now how far off I was with that initial cut.  Not even close!

We're getting there.  Mechanical is done.  Now for the electronics, and such.  Wipers will be a pain.

Jay

I really like the looks of the slit-window Erie-builts. I'm not too hot for the arch window version(s), though.

Nice work on your Erie-built fleet!

Andre

Ready for wipers.  I've put them off as long as possible.  Following that, it's back to the owner for testing and, hopefully, approval.

Jay

Jay, those are wild looking motors to me. Can I ask what they are?

Joe,

Sure, they are Faulhaber 2842 (28mm wide by 42mm long) gear head motors with a 14:1 ratio.  A little too slow for what the end user wanted so I brought the overall ratio to around 10:1 using various sized MXL timing belts & pulleys.  My gearboxes use ball bearings throughout with a 1:1 ratio.  The gears are .7mod.

I still use Pittman gear head motors when I can but these Faulhabers are pretty amazing.

Jay

Thanks!

So awesome. Please keep posting. I can't wait to see the next step.

These are done and ready to be sent home. From there Lee Turner will work his magic. I think I installed one of the fuel tanks backwards...he needs to remove them anyway so he can fix it. Just attached for shipping. May redo the wire management upon their return. Luckily everything he does conceals everything I do. Early UP FMs. I call them B-17s because of their unique windshield (did you start this Turner?). The trailing unit (unpainted one in the photo) will have the shell swapped with one Lee has in hand. No photos of the lead or B unit. He has them already. Maybe we can talk Norm into a video when they're done.

Jay

Bump: Callie Graphics has shipped the final iteration of the stick-on cugar band. I should have a photo soon - looking for a little light under the June Gloom. Next will be handrails and windows. Castings are drilled for handrails, so all I have to do is bend and plug. But windows I hate! I will give it a shot. But the next photos will have neither.

These stick-ons do not go around rivets quite like decals, so I may have to do an underlayment.  Not looking forward to that, but it looks doable with thin plastic.

When the photos arrive, you may be able to see that Callie was able to reproduce the rivets!  Really hard to see, but she did it!

I had help!  This is what we are calling the final version - the all caps legend on the front could be slightly better, but it is ok.  I will be sanding off some rivet detail so the sides fit better, and working on the door area with bits and pieces - but you can see we were successful!

That looks great; must weigh a ton!

Mark in Oregon 

It is heavy.  Foundry needed to go 1/4" thick to get good flow.

The awesome talent found here certainly inspires guys like me to continue on refining our bench work skills.  Not that anything I produce is comparable, but if one can appreciate exactly how to execute such a build then there is hope for us trying to strive towards better skills.  Some day the MR bug will bite hard enough to bring my desires out of the steam era, and when it does I want something as close in quality to these Erie builds as possible.  Bravo, JayC!

I have recently been swapping out old motors for Faulhaber's in a few 2R and 3R engines.  All have comparably primitive 1940's type gearing and without mods produce pretty good performance out of the average doorstop.  Rated 24V, they slow things down to a snails pace so they're better suited to" as is" switchers.

Bruce

Still working on it - removed a row of rivets and did some doorway cutting.  I will do the final version next week, along with windows and grabirons,

Nice write up in Gene's blog.  Lee Turners magic really make them look good.

https://myp48.wordpress.com/20...moSopXBDvXm-jhshrb2M

Jay

Well, bump!  Be nice if we had a search function; I had to go to page 15 for this.

So an original F-V Shops Erie-Built came up on eBay, and sold to a good friend for mucho dinero.  I was bidding, but dropped out at the halfway point.  Good thing; I dislike bidding against my buddies.

Best of all I have photos, and written permission to post them.  That will happen momentito, with comments.

I am beyond delighted that this anachronism will be restored and saved from the recycling bin - by my buddies!

@bob2 posted:

Well, bump!  Be nice if we had a search function; I had to go to page 15 for this.

 

There is one at the VERY top left off of the Menu option.

Simon

Thanks.  Still haven't found it.

Here are some photos:

The B unit is a CLW cast PB, not an F-M.  that's ok; the UP used PBs behind the Erie-Builts.  Iam not sure what happens to the B yet, but the A will become a colorful KCS locomotive.  I approve! 

I found the search function on the top right of my big Dell computer, and on the left where you said on the iPad.  

When the F-M is restored I will easily find this thread and post the results.  Thanks, Simon.

@bob2 posted:

I found the search function on the top right.  When the F-M is restored I will easily find this thread and post the results.  Thanks, Simon.

You could just bookmark it and save yourself some hassle.

Press the  Ctrl and D keys at the same time to bookmark

Afraid that search on my screen is still on my left!

Simon

Rare, indeed!  My friend Maroon just found another F-V nose.  These things are as rare as hen's teeth.  I note that several F-M B units (Max Gray) have been sold recently by Trainz, all powered, which I might have used for pushing my doorstop A unit.  Alas, they sold for more than my target price. 

I did try to search for this thread - finally got it by going advanced.  I really should take Simon's advice - my first search was for "Erie-Built" and OGR said "nope."  I found others on PAs and E7s.  Still have not received any more castings from my foundry guy.  I shall push a bit.

Would you ever consider making a Standard Gauge version of your exceptional Erie Built Olympian Hiawatha diesel to go with my Standard Gauge Olympian Hiawatha cars?

Bob Nelson

Make you a deal - you find a foundry willing to do bronze castings in onesies and twosies for less than $100 a piece, and I will consider it.  Is there a plastic Erie-Built in G scale that we can use for patterns?

I always remind potential custom builders - use your equivalent hourly salary as a baseline, and assume nothing custom can be built in less than 100 hours, and you have a ballpark cost.  Don't forget overhead and coffee breaks.  Usually materials are lost in the noise.

@bob2 posted:

I found the search function on the top right of my big Dell computer, and on the left where you said on the iPad.  

When the F-M is restored I will easily find this thread and post the results.  Thanks, Simon.

Bob, We are both in the "CRS" crowd. Bookmark it with the Ctrl and D keys pressed simultaneously. That will pop up a dialogue box and you can name the file, say ERIEBUILT maybe and you can put all your junk there.

Simon

Now what the heck did I name that thing??? LOL

Bump again.  My iPad doesn't seem to have a "control" key.  A search for "Erie-Built" won't bring anything up.

I just did a quick and dirty B unit for this thing.  I used a sand-cast PA with those neat fabricated trucks.

I would do a B unit to match, but my foundry search has yielded nothing.  An outfit near Erie, Pa, did the sides I show on page 1, but they must have been in a good mood that day.  Local foundries do commemorative bronze plaques, starting at $300 a pop.  Not viable.

I had a question about assembly - I solder a lot of casting sets, including the CLW PA/PB, Ken Kraft, Adams, and Pearce casting sets.  Roofs usually have ridges against which the sides rest, and I install internal jigs using window openings.  To make sure the roof is held evenly for soldering I run 2-56 steel cap screws through each jig into threaded holes in the roof.

I use 1/4" square brass for truck mounts and for matching nose to sides.  Rather than clamping them to the sides for solder, I use 2-56 brass screws.  You can see them protruding out of the cast sides on page 1.  They disappear after soldering.

My first attempts were oxy-acetylene, but now I just use Mapp gas and a pencil tip.  Takes ten minutes to get a PA hot enough for 60/40 solder to flow.  A buddy reports that a toaster oven gets hot enough, so maybe that is a good way to solder?

I wish I could help you, but all that is way over my skill set; hopefully someone will be able to assist you.

Mark in Oregon

Try: FM Erie-built

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FM_Erie-built

Bob Nelson

Bump.  What I meant was, if I search this site for "Erie-Built Diesel" I get ten pages of threads with "Diesel" in them, but it cannot find this thread.  I have to scroll down to page 11 of the 2-rail forum to see that our search engine cannot find my title.

But the real reason for the bump is that I have another Erie-Built coming together.  Photos of my latest blasphemy (apologies to both Alco and Fairbanks Morse) will be forthcoming.

@bob2 posted:

Bump.  What I meant was, if I search this site for "Erie-Built Diesel" I get ten pages of threads with "Diesel" in them, but it cannot find this thread.  I have to scroll down to page 11 of the 2-rail forum to see that our search engine cannot find my title.

If you search for Erie-Built Diesel using Exact Phrase Match, it pops right up.

How I wish Scott would offer these instead of that ugly EP-3 electric

@bob2 this is just in case you need some additional motivation to complete the project...

Nice video!  I would have a string of those if I wasn't so busy buying avgas.

@SANTIAGOP23 posted:

How I wish Scott would offer these instead of that ugly EP-3 electric

You and me both !!!!!!!!    
I tried pumping up the Erie-Builts in that long running “3rd Rail Wishlist” to no avail. With the EP3s looking like they were going Nowhere, I emailed to coax Scott to switch to offering the Eire-Builts. After all - Great linkage to Olympian AND multiple roads could be offered !!! expanding the audience of prospective buyers.   No go. 😑
Well,  I guess the EP3 buyers are happy.
Actually, I need another model to reserve like I need a hole in the head 🤭😳🤣🤣.  

@TrainBub posted:

You and me both !!!!!!!!    
I tried pumping up the Erie-Builts in that long running “3rd Rail Wishlist” to no avail. With the EP3s looking like they were going Nowhere, I emailed to coax Scott to switch to offering the Eire-Builts. After all - Great linkage to Olympian AND multiple roads could be offered !!! expanding the audience of prospective buyers.   No go. 😑
Well,  I guess the EP3 buyers are happy.
Actually, I need another model to reserve like I need a hole in the head 🤭😳🤣🤣.  

If folks are happy with the EP3, that's great, but it's not for me.  However, I'd definitely go for a set of Erie Builts in the Olympian Hiawatha scheme.  As well, the Erie Builts were ordered by many of the roads that are most popular in model railroading (ATSF, UP, PRR, NYC, etc.) so I'm guessing they'd all sell well. 

What was wrong with the Atlas Erie-Builts?  They looked pretty good to me - I suppose if they had been metal I might have bought a set.  Ditto the Skytop lounge.

Okay - get ready for blasphemy!

I have a CLW cast PA body, but no nose.  Hopefully a nose will show up to rectify this mortal sin?  But meantime my buddy Maroon has found an ancient Erie-Built nose, and I am going to modify it and temporarily solder it on the PA body.

I have already machined the inside of the nose casting so it sits on the rails extending from the PA body.  I think you can see from my photo what comes next!

Here are side views, first with the rails sticking out, and then with the nose resting on the rails and a block of wood.

Looks marvelous Bob2!

Thank you.  Marvelously ugly, of course.  But it will get marginally better.  I will reduce the windshield vee today.

Interim update:  I reduced the windshield vee, and shaved 1/8” off the rear of the casting, including the indent where the sheet sides were to be soldered.

The Center Post is just hanging with tape- a better one is being designed with screws and solder attachment planned.

The front taper seems slightly overdone, but it is possible that the Atlas nose is too blunt.  All the photos I have indicate that it is slightly less than the casting under work, so I am “thinking about it.”

All in all, I think I am approaching acceptable accuracy. Herewith:

Its looking better already ,hanging on the next instalment.    cTr..... ( Choose the Right )

Here is the bolted-on cab, with fuel tank skirts hanging on with tension -

First, sorry about that shadow.  I can get rid of it with "paintbrush", but haven't figured out how to store the result.  Second, I have decided to fill in that incongruous arched window with smooth brass.  It will be glued in, just in case a PA nose shows up in the future.

I may have mentioned that I am merely bolting the nose on for the same reason.  I spent two agonizing hours last night aligning the bolts pulling the roof together.  Wound up with enlarged holes and big washers.  All is well.

Bob, use the Snipping Tool app and then edit with its 3D paint option, then save or re-snip and paste it straight into the forum post as I have done here, this took about 2 minutes.

I got it painted out - the "save" was what tripped me up.  I used to be able to do it by sampling the color and using that when I brushed - alas, they keep improving these things

Yeah Bob, truth though I struggle myself, surprised no else instructed us here on the best way to fix that, I'm sure there is.

Erie-Built may not appeal to a lot of folks. Maybe they don't look.  How is Jim's project going?  He said it will be early KCS - a colorful scheme.

I don't think he's evaluated the Erie Builts drive status yet, I won't see them until he's got that sorted out. May wind up doing  some CLW centercabs or maybe those cast H16-44's for him before the Erie Builts get done. His backlog pile is pretty steep and he's been tied up with family matters and getting the club layout upgraded.

We're going back and forth over whether the Erie-Builts will get that factory "freight" scheme or the simplified red and yellow "blonde" scheme. Though it's more work I now lean toward the former as the L&A had two A units in that scheme with SG's that showed up on the Flying Crow periodically.

It has progressed:

The little cigar band sticker fits much better on the less detailed sand cast nose.  Note the difference in the maroon color - I shall be repainting and re-banding the new one in the not too distant future, but first I need to make another pair of the corrugated nose wings.  Ten-wheeler in the back is an on-going project inspired by Mr. French Train.

By the way, I would encourage that more complicated scheme - the red units all look so forlorn in photos.

Remind Jim that I owe him a solder job - any of the big cast units.  I am fully equipped.

Meanwhile . . .

Well, surprise, F-M fans. Note the difference in nose lengths in that photo.
Jim Scribbins did a nice book on the Hiawatha - and on page 254 he notes that there was indeed a longer, more pointy snout on the earlier units. I had sort of suspected that some were more pointy than others, but was unaware of the snout length disparity.
Learn something every darn day - too bad it isn’t useful stuff.
So my modified Atlas nose may be less correct for the B-17 windows than the sand cast variant.

Great stuff Bob

I tried searching "French Train" to see if I could find pictures of the ten wheeler, with no luck; any chance you could give us a little more about it ?

Unfortunately, the search function here does not like me.  I cannot even find my own threads - I search for "Erie-built Diesel" and it comes up with anything with the word Diesel in it.  I found this thread by simply plowing through the pages.

But it is a charming ten-wheeler - freelance, but close to a Frisco prototype.  The poster's handle is "French Trains."

Here is the original thread I posted some time ago.

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...6-0-brass-locomotive

Far from beeing as nice as the one Bob is building, it has a more toy look. I repainted the loco and it still needs some improvements.

Daniel

bob2

When using the search function try checking the "exact phrase match". Sometimes (but not always) this will help limit the search.

Bob,

I just went through this whole thread looking for the "B-17 nose" version (my favorite) and did not see it. Did I miss it or is it elsewhere? It is always a pleasure to watch a craftsman at work; especially doing something that I do not have the capability to do.

The ”B-17” appellation refers to the windshield. All of my photos and most of the others show that early windshield.  There is a post on page 2 with photos of both windshield configurations.

Esoteric, huh?

Bob2  Your Milwaukee  units  look great how are you doing the wings?

I had help. Callie Graphics has the artwork, and she has my permission to sell copies to others.  We have it darn near perfect.

Decals would have been better, since the vinyl is not stretchable. I may smooth out the original unit and re-apply.  She sent extras.

She also did some Sunset Limited passenger car stripes, and some neat orange NW2 Southern Pacific stick-ons in orange.  Stunning.

I have several A class Hiawatha's , 2 are weaver and have the wings  put on with decals, and in O scale they dont look right . , yours look better

She can do it, but the artwork and angle (for the nose slope) is up to you.

Thanks for the link to the ten wheeler thread; great stuff

Adding this here, because it is sort of a “Milwaukee” thread.  Just got a Bi-Polar for two-railing, and hit this Kasiner duplex with some old orange paint.  I like it, and am going to do the older single maroon stripe, either above the top windows or right at the grey.  Thought I would memorialize the preliminary paint.

I was heading toward a couple Hiawatha cars for the two locomotives, including a Skytop, but am now leaning toward maybe four cars of the mostly orange scheme, including some Walthers heavyweights.

Bipolar looks good on the shelf.  I really look forward to the 2-rail upgrade.

I know L&N Pullman is pretty far away from Erie-Built and Milwaukee, but here is the other side. I may have to cut some more extrusions so I can do both L&N and Milwaukee.

Wow! Lousy picture!  I will do better later, maybe in an L&N thread.