Skip to main content

We are updating a raw garage space that hopefully will end up at some point as a train room.

Do you have any recommendations for things like electric and lighting, for instance, that could be preemptively installed during the initial build out that would save me headaches and additional cost later?

I appreciate your thoughts.

Ben
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Based on my poor progress in the Barn:

Insulation, Track Lighting on it's own power circuit so you can focus light on the areas that need it (possibly with multiple switches / dimmers), Plenty of Amperage in the circuit running the trains. Seal up the Car Door to avoid excess dust entry and heat / cooling needs.

If you're doing a custom environment, I'd say a master kill switch for the entire layout.

I knew a guy who had one, and he made a very well-executed box that said, "self-destruct" like in the James Bond movies. But it came in real handy when a lightning storm popped up and started blasting the area around him. He hit the switch about 5 seconds before lightning hit the building. Could have fried everything if he hadn't.

You need good electric.  At a minimum two dedicated circuits for trains.  More would be better, but two at a minimum.  Good lighting.  Your preference as to kelvin color, but daylight will be very good for intricate scenery and towns.  Heating and AC, of course.

 

Then you must have (1) TRAINS, (2) TRACK () POWER SUPPLIES.  A good imagination, and you're off to there races.  Good luck.   Bob S.

Originally Posted by Stephen C. Puntar:

Heat and AC…….

Quoted for truth.

I have seen several layouts over the years, most of them HO, in buildings that had neither. They have a local tour of layouts in my area and I went on it last year. One HO layout was in what seemed like a former farm building. No heat in there, everyone was huddled up in jackets.

That's why I went with a much smaller layout than I could have done in an out building, because it's in the house, with all the comfort that goes with it. The room invites me in there and motivates me to work on the layout far more than I'd feel if it was in a unheated or AC'd building way off in the back 40 somewhere...

Plus one on the track lighting.  Run the track down the center of the layout.  If you are going around the room place it over the center of the benchwork.  If you have room add the can lights with a dimmer.  You need a lot of light when your working, but not so much when your running.  My room is 28 X 15 and the layout is a walk in around the walls.  I have track lighting on one side and recessed fluorescent on the other side.  I have already added additional lights on the track lighting.  The other side is a little dark and I wish I had put in track lighting along that wall.

All of the above sounds very good but you also need a sink and running water.  Scenery is much easier if you don't have to tote water or run to wash up a brush or bucket.  Hot and cold ideal but cold only will do.

 

A utility mop type sink is good with a simple inexpensive faucet.

 

Also don't forget a door for materials to come through.  Make it a outswing so the layout can go across it if necessary.

 

George Lasley

Decide what to do with the floor - epoxy, carpeting, vinyl, whatever you want - and get it done, because that will be the hardest to retrofit. Insulation has been mentioned, and I agree with track lighting. Also think about ventilation. What you do with that depends on your climate, but think about it. If you have a lot of humidity, central a/c and/or a dehumidifier. If you're in a hot, dry climate, some sort of nighttime exhaust fan may be a useful option. Also think about daytime illumination. Do you want skylights? I have them in my train room and I like them a lot. Along the same line, consider ceiling fans. 

 

All these are just ideas and suggestions. It's your house, make it fit your lifestyle. 

From my experience in construction, pay now or REALLY PAY LATER. When I built my, 20'X 32' trainroom twenty plus years ago. First above all else would be your power needs. DO NOT SKIMP, place outlets every eight feet. You're going to need at least 60 amp service.

 

Seal and install vapor barrier on the floor. Install vapor barrier in all walls. It's best to install a half bath with hot water. It's much cheaper now. I could go on and on. It would be pointless since I'm an old man who knows nothing.  LMAO

Banelson,

We used dricore tiles for the subfloor in our basement train room and they work great for keeping the room dry. They give you a small air space between your floor and the concrete, and also work as a vapor barrier. They're easy to install too. www.dricore.com

 

For insulating the walls, we used Roxul insulation.

 

For humidity control, we also purchased an EZ-Breathe ventilation system:

www.ezbreathe.com

 

In my opinion, this is far better than a conventional dehumidifier as there are no water buckets to empty, it's quiet and it uses a lot less electricity than a dehumidifier. It improves the overall air quality in our entire home too.

 

 

 

 

-A bathroom

-A workbench

-Don't overcrowd the room with the layout, leave some open space for having visitors over

-Carpeting

-If you are going to have a layout you can walk around, having floor receptacles hidden under the layout is a big improvement over cords running from the wall that can trip people

-Drop ceiling with sound absorbing tiles

-skirting around the layout, hide your boxes and reduce layout sound.

 

 

 

Last edited by Craignor
Originally Posted by rboatertoo:
Originally Posted by NJCJOE:
Originally Posted by bluelinec4:

This is the best thing you can have in your train room

 

 

 

kegerator-beer-fridge-tap-open49264

We should start making them with railroad logos on them.

I agree, when stuff just doesn't work.....  Beer is needed

If not a tapper refrigerator, as shown above, at the very least a small fridge to keep bottled beer cool in.

1 - floor - sealed, no dust 

2 - insulated

3 - HVAC

4 - Light; general and track about 18" out from the layout. Dimmers on both. I use LED

5 - Power; two circuits on the same phase switched by the door. With good grounds.  Another circuit for vacuum cleaners and power tools.

6 - cooler for cold beverages

7 - place to get rid of excess/used beverage. (you only rent it)

8 - seal cement to keep moisture out and dust down.

9 - floor covering, comfortable for feet and keep noise down.

 

Dan

 

Originally Posted by loco-dan:

1 - floor - sealed, no dust 

2 - insulated

3 - HVAC

4 - Light; general and track about 18" out from the layout. Dimmers on both. I use LED

5 - Power; two circuits on the same phase switched by the door. With good grounds.  Another circuit for vacuum cleaners and power tools.

6 - cooler for cold beverages

7 - place to get rid of excess/used beverage. (you only rent it)

8 - seal cement to keep moisture out and dust down.

9 - floor covering, comfortable for feet and keep noise down.

 

Dan

 

Very sound advice, especially #7. For lighting, invest in warn-white LED-based lighting as the florescent lighting tends to cast a yellow pallor over everything and incandescent lights generate a lot of heat.

Add Reply

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×