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I picked up a challenger I knew the sound might be an issue when I picked it up. but the smoke isn't working either. I have a few questions would this be one of the engines that needed the sleeve removed and hole made bigger on tmcc1 engines? secondly can I test the sound boards in another engine to see which board may be bad? and thirdly would this be a candidate for the super cuff board?

 

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Hi Jhainer,

 

Can you provide some more info, like the item number of this engine, and are you running it conventional or command.

 

If the smoke unit was never touched, the sleeve would need to be removed

Also did you check to see if the smoke on/off switch is in the on position

if you're running in command did you press number 9 on the remote.

What voltage are you running this engine at.

 

As for the sound, there can be many reasons why you have a problem with sound.

When you say a problem with sound, is there no sound at all. Or are the sounds intermitting.

 

Alex

 

6-38014 I use it in command mode with both tmcc and dcs I am using the tmcc controller it was set to # 38 I changed it to #9 by programing  with the run switch I hear the smoke fan run but no smoke added fluid no smoke it has the infared sensor on the coupler and the rear lights work in reverse and the electrocoupler works fine but no sound at all checked the volume control on the bottom of the tender. still nothing the tender has both railsounds and signal sounds neither work

 

 

Last edited by Jhainer

That unit has a conventional 27 ohm smoke resistor, no voltage regulator.  The usually cause of no smoke or heat at all ends up being the smoke triac on the R2LC or perhaps wiring.  Occasionally the resistor goes bad, but I've only seen a couple of those.  I replace smoke triacs pretty regularly.  It should be pretty cheap to fix the smoke on this one.

 

First thing to do with the sound is reseat the boards in the tender.

Last edited by gunrunnerjohn

thank you John well I went through did the sleeve thing with the smoke unit the batting was more of a jelly than matting so that is probably the issue with that since once it was back together it smoked but very little. one question tho is the fan unit suppose to run none stop or does it chuff with the locos movement  I then reset all the boards in the tender still nothing. I have another board  like this tried it didn't help. the board came from generic diesel railsounds my board was good just missing the board with the chip so I only used one board for my up sd40t2 so this was an extra but didn't help

 

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Last edited by Jhainer

Those had a continuous running fan, which is why the S-C board is such a good fit.

 

The smoke unit would probably benefit from a 20 ohm resistor upgrade. If it smokes, even a little, it's probably not the R2LC triac.  You need a surprising amount of smoke fluid when you put a new wick in, I can tell you from experience that the 15 drops recommended for new locomotives won't do much.  What I do is soak the wick when I have the unit open and then reassemble it.

 

You can try a RS4 board from most any other engine to see if it's just the board.  One thing to check is the speaker, that's a fairly common failure item.  Any 8 ohm speaker can be temporarily connected to see if it is the speaker.

 

all right did the master reset nothing different. tested the steam engine board in my sd40t2 worked sounded funny in a diesel but worked . then swapped out the power board don't know the technical name for it it also worked in the sd40t2. the only 2 boards left in the tender that I didn't check is the motherboard and the IR board now my question is where are the boards placed on the motherboard reason I ask is the motherboard has 2 spots faceing each other and one on the end. I think the one on the end is for the IR and the 2 facing each other are for the power board and the sound board. that's not how it showed up tho the power board is on the end than ir board and sound board face each other is how it showed up (not working ) the reason I think it's the other way is because on the motherboard it had a set of numbers under the pins and the ir board has the same part number

I hope this makes sence

 

On your MB picture, the RS P/S with the coil goes on tne end toward the battery lead, the IR receiver goes on the top next to J6, and the RS4 audio board is on the bottom.

 

If you look through the pins, under them is silkscreened which board goes in which socket.

 

I like Bill's idea of the pot, I was thinking speaker first.  I wouldn't think it would be the AD20 if you have coupler and rear light working, but it's possible I guess.

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