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Absolutely.  200 feet of track, this is the fifth year of my overhead layout.  Bus wiring all around, signal strength 10 all around.  Been running like a champ for all this time.  One PW ZW, one TIU.  Four MTH engines, on two 100 foot mainlines, pulling about 25 cars per consist.  No issues with DCS, I highly recommend it.

20181231_220749[1]

The guys usually chime in and may give you all the data, if you need more information.

Jerry

 

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JerryG posted:

Absolutely.  200 feet of track, this is the fifth year of my overhead layout.  Bus wiring all around, signal strength 10 all around.  Been running like a champ for all this time.  One PW ZW, one TIU.  Four MTH engines, on two 100 foot mainlines, pulling about 25 cars per consist.  No issues with DCS, I highly recommend it.

The guys usually chime in and may give you all the data, if you need more information.

Jerry

 

I'm interested myself.

But..how may blocks did you make on each mainline. DCS requires  1 hot wire only to each block correct?

My layout is buss wired, but the only blocks are in yards and sidings.

So someone like myself has to cut breaks in the center rail between feeders?

Lastly, I run fastrack switches. Is it also true that the electronics of these switches interferes with the DCS signal requiring chokes to be installed?

My trackwork is already fastened and ballasted, so pulling out turnouts to add chokes is not an option.

Any clarification would be appreciated.

RickO posted:
 

I run fastrack switches. Is it also true that the electronics of these switches interferes with the DCS signal requiring chokes to be installed?

My trackwork is already fastened and ballasted, so pulling out turnouts to add chokes is not an option.

Any clarification would be appreciated.

FWIW- my layout is approximately 10'x15' w/ another 10' L.  It's 150+ feet of FasTrack and 11 FasTrack switches (track power).  I have the whole thing wired in one spot to a TIU.  No signal issues.

Last edited by MikeH

Rick,

I run fastrack switches. Is it also true that the electronics of these switches interferes with the DCS signal requiring chokes to be installed?

The only time any switch motor can cause a degradation of the DCS signal is if the motor runs off track power. If you power the motors with a separate power source, phased to the track power transformer and with a Common wire connected between the two transformers, you'll be fine.


DCS Book CoverEverything that you need to know about DCS is all in MTH’s “The DCS Companion 3rd Edition!"

This book is available from many fine OGR advertisers and forum sponsors, or as an eBook or a printed book at MTH's web store!

 DCS Book Cover

Everything that you need to know about DCS WiFi is all in MTH’s “The DCS WiFi Companion 2nd Edition!"

This book is available from many fine OGR advertisers and forum sponsors, as an eBook or a printed book at MTH's web store!

 My layout has multiple long blocks. Yet every 3 ft. section of Gargraves has drops to buss wires. When I started out. Neither TMCC or DCS existed.  The cool setup for walk around back control back then was an Al Trol throttle.  Every isolated rail on every turnout has drops. 12 gauge buss with 14 gauge feeders on the mainline. A bit of tweaking early on. The track signal test is your best friend when starting out. With clean track pretty much a signal strength of 10 on the entire layout. No star wiring or one pair of wires per block.The layout covers an area of about 24 x 48 ft. with a few aisles. 2 TIU's in super mode.

 MTH makes some cool engines. Go for it.

romiller49 posted:

My layout is 20x30 L shape. I’m all Legacy powered Lionel but am ready to try MTH DCS. Has anybody had success without rewiring layout to star as recommended? 

Big Yes as others have stated above.  Bus wiring, with a rev L TIU.  No need for magic bulbs.  As long as the track is clean 10’s all around.

Mark,

does the 3rd edition of the DCS companion cover what is in the second edition or is it necessary to buy both editions.

The DCS Companion 3rd Edition contains everything that's in the 2nd edition and more. It addresses DCS using the DCS Remote and the basic version of the DCS App.

What it doesn't address is the DCS App Premium version. That's the subject of a newer book, The DCS WiFi Companion 2nd Edition, which discusses DCS using only the DCS App's Premium version. While the two books share some basic information regarding DCS in general, they are very different.

 


DCS Book CoverEverything that you need to know about DCS is all in MTH’s “The DCS Companion 3rd Edition!"

This book is available from many fine OGR advertisers and forum sponsors, or as an eBook or a printed book at MTH's web store!

 DCS Book Cover

Everything that you need to know about DCS WiFi is all in MTH’s “The DCS WiFi Companion 2nd Edition!"

This book is available from many fine OGR advertisers and forum sponsors, as an eBook or a printed book at MTH's web store!

RickO posted:
JerryG posted:

Absolutely.  200 feet of track, this is the fifth year of my overhead layout.  Bus wiring all around, signal strength 10 all around.  Been running like a champ for all this time.  One PW ZW, one TIU.  Four MTH engines, on two 100 foot mainlines, pulling about 25 cars per consist.  No issues with DCS, I highly recommend it.

The guys usually chime in and may give you all the data, if you need more information.

Jerry

 

I'm interested myself.

But..how may blocks did you make on each mainline. DCS requires  1 hot wire only to each block correct?

My layout is buss wired, but the only blocks are in yards and sidings.

So someone like myself has to cut breaks in the center rail between feeders?

Lastly, I run fastrack switches. Is it also true that the electronics of these switches interferes with the DCS signal requiring chokes to be installed?

My trackwork is already fastened and ballasted, so pulling out turnouts to add chokes is not an option.

Any clarification would be appreciated.

RickO,

Each mainline is it's own block.  There are four feeders from the two buses for each, mostly toward the four corners of the layout. 

I have a small yard, over the fireplace, furthest from the bar.  It is a separately powered and controlled block, with two additional sidings inside it.  The sidings are controlled by simple toggle switches.

Yes, you need to isolate each block, with center gaps or insulating pins, if you want separate control.  

Fastrack switches should not interfere with the DCS signal.

Here is that small yard.  The insulating pins are in the switch on the left, and in the unseen switch far right.  The mains are connected with the two 022 Lionel switches, which are insulated against each other.

100_0615

Jerry

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