Just a quick couple of questions. I was wondering if you can use a Lionel electric trains model 1033 Transformer to run fastrack and which terminals would you wire it to from the track?
Any information would be most helpful.
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If I'm reading the diagram correctly, the red live wire goes to the U post and the black ground wire goes to the A post.
Thank you very much.
Will this transformer have enough power to run old trains as well as the newer lion chiefs?
One locomotive at a time should be no problem for the 1033.
The 1033 is a 90W transformer - since transformers are not perfect/ideal converters, you can only expect to get about 80% of that rating constantly, or about 70 Watts. How many watts are you going to use? Here is Lionel's "rule of thumb":
More modern equipment with LEDs and maintenance free DC motors will draw less power than their pulmor and incandescent ancestors.
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I notice that the table BMORAN4 posted lists "lamp type smoke unit". But I don't see any mention of "heater type smoke unit". Interesting.
The 1033 was a very popular transformer. A lot of the 027 train sets that I've picked up in the wild came with 1033 transformers, or the follow-on model, 1044.
IMHO, a 1033 would be fine for any postwar Lionel 027 locomotive with an average number of cars. It would probably be OK for some Lionel "O" or Super "O" locomotives. But I think I'd go with something bigger to run Lionel's postwar double motored locomotives or their biggest postwar steam engines.
My favorite Lionel Postwar single train transformer is the LW, primarily due to the styling. It is rated a bit higher at 125 watts.
The Lionel Test bench cart gives the top voltage on a 1033 as 15.5 volts.
It gives the top voltage on an LW as 18.5 volts.
Ackleplem,
The Lionel 1033 is a introductory type Transformer, and a good 90W one. Running one nice engine and a lighted Caboose should not be a problem. Leo was nice enough to show you exactly how to wire it up to your FasTrack in his post. If you have older lighted rolling stock and want to run it I recommend LED's be switched with the regular bulbs.
If you are planning to use FT Command Control Switches with you 1033 Lionel Transformer, they are low voltage and they will work fine as long as you do not use to many of them, remember only about 70W or about 15.5 V Max power in reality.
I would look for a larger Transformer in the near future if you plan on having a permanent layout. This little boys toy from the 50's is well made however limited in actual power out put. As CW suggests the LW gives you more power, the ZW with 4 Channels is my recommendation, when staying with the older Lionel Transformers. You can usually pick one up used, at a train show for about $100.00 or less.
Have fun!
PCRR/Dave
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Post war engines drew 2-3 times as many amps as modern engines. Running a modern engine would be no problem. Consider many 027 sets came with three lighted passenger cars was well. I used to use a 1033 to run my Legacy and Vision engines, I have since "upgraded" to a 125 watt LW.
Pete
As Dave wrote the ZW is a great transformer.
If you decide to go with a large Postwar Lionel transformer like a KW or ZW, please be certain to use external circuit protection, one on each "power" terminal that is in use.
The internal breaker is only there to protect the transformer itself and will not trip under many conditions.
It also does not protect any circuits accidentally created between to "power" terminals.
Since you will be running some modern trains with electronics too, be certain to add "TVS" devices.
This advice may be considered off-putting to some, but adding external circuit protection is really very simple.
Thank you for all your responses. I would be running just one train at a time on it, my Batman Phantom train and no accessories, for now. My layout space probably won't exceed 42" X 78". I know, small, but I live in an apartment. How would you wire the TVS into a fastrack setup?
@Ackleplem, the TVS Diode recommended is 1.5KE36CA. These are available from many standard electronics part suppliers. Simply wire it across your U and A terminals on the 1033.
Here is a forum discussion on TVS diodes with more information than you'll care to know: https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...uts-thoughts-on-this
C W Burfle posted:I notice that the table BMORAN4 posted lists "lamp type smoke unit". But I don't see any mention of "heater type smoke unit". Interesting.
@C W Burfle, the source document is dated February 1948 and predates heater elements. However, the intention and ratings are still very applicable.
EDIT: Yikes - I just did the math and realized that is 70 years old this month! I can't imagine at the time that Lionel thought we would be referencing that document today!
the source document is dated February 1948 and predates heater elements. However, the intention and ratings are still very applicable.
Heater type smoke units came out in 1947.
Plus Lionel referred to the smoke units as "Lamp type" which infers that there was more than one kind.
Maybe the other numbers included the heater type smoke unit.
bmoran4 posted:@Ackleplem, the TVS Diode recommended is 1.5KE36CA. These are available from many standard electronics part suppliers. Simply wire it across your U and A terminals on the 1033.
Here is a forum discussion on TVS diodes with more information than you'll care to know: https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...uts-thoughts-on-this
Does this have to soldered or can you just wrap it around the terminal? I would think you could crimp the ends into a open ended connector and place it in that way.
You can just wrap the leads right around the binding post. No need for solder or crimped connections (but I wouldn't discourage using those if you wanted).
