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Has anyone changed a tire on an I-5 Hudson? I used the tool provided by Weaver to remove the screw holding the drive rid on and removed and replaced the tire, When I reinstalled the screw holding the rods on either side of the locomotive, the rod  hole now appears to be too big and won't stay in place. I paid particular attention to be sure what came off and I didn't see any other tiny parts. Does anyone have an answer?  The Weaver O&M Manual leaves something to be desired. Thank you in advance. Bill Parl

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Easier to find then I thought. There is a washer. It tightens against a bushing so washer thickness shouldn’t matter but it is thin.

40301597-5E6E-4B4F-BBBD-599C157F2A53

if you used a foam cradle. Check all the nooks. Run a magnet over the area. Or maybe as Pat said. Someone else could have been in there before and they weren’t put back.

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Last edited by Dave_C
@Dave_C posted:

Easier to find then I thought. There is a washer. It tightens against a bushing so washer thickness shouldn’t matter but it is thin.

40301597-5E6E-4B4F-BBBD-599C157F2A53

if you used a foam cradle. Check all the nooks. Run a magnet over the area. Or maybe as Pat said. Someone else could have been in there before and they weren’t put back.

Dave, any chance you can you give the fella at least the O.D. of the washer?, ….he might get lucky at Ace Hardware or an old time hardware store that USED to keep goodies like that…..this way he can carry a pair of calipers with him for the hunt….

Pat

I’ve got it being a 2mm screw.   O.D. of the washer measures 4.9 mm .  The only thing I have is some #2’s which are a bit bigger than 2mm. Check your local Ace Hardware in the Stainless section. They have 2mm. A hobby shop specializing in RC cars might have them. If not www.microfasteners.com.  You will have to buy about 50. But they aren’t expensive and they ship quick.

Last edited by Dave_C
@Dave_C posted:

I’ve got it being a 2mm screw.   O.D. of the washer measures 4.9 mm .  The only thing I have is some #2’s which are a bit bigger than 2mm. Check your local Ace Hardware in the Stainless section. They have 2mm. A hobby shop specializing in RC cars might have them. If not www.microfasteners.com.  You will have to buy about 50. But they aren’t expensive and they ship quick.

Very cool, …now the OP is armed with knowledge!…..let’s get it fixed!…thanks Dave!

Pat

@biscuitag97 posted:

Do any of you TMCC upgrade masters have a parts list for what is required for the upgrade for the NH I5? The original TAS electronics are unreliable at best. I was looking into the ERR kits but was wondering what I actually need.

ERR Cruise Commander

ERR Rail sounds Commander

If it doesn't already a fan driven smoke unit of smoke kinda and a GRJ Super chuffer.

Here is one I upgraded using the original TAS smoke unit. So no super chuffer was used.

Video link: https://youtu.be/TQDgOjCY5pY

Last edited by Sid's Trains
@biscuitag97 posted:

Do any of you TMCC upgrade masters have a parts list for what is required for the upgrade for the NH I5? The original TAS electronics are unreliable at best. I was looking into the ERR kits but was wondering what I actually need.

Don’t even mess with it, ….send to Sid for a Legacy swap!….you’ll be glad you did!!…..just close your eyes and say yes!….☺️……as far as ERR, I’m not sure if you can salvage the sound system or not from the TAS, but at very least, you’ll need a Cruise Commander, and either John’s chuff stuff or a 4 lobe cam and fan smoke …

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

Don’t even mess with it, ….send to Sid for a Legacy swap!….you’ll be glad you did!!…..just close your eyes and say yes!….☺️……as far as ERR, I’m not sure if you can salvage the sound system or not from the TAS, but at very least, you’ll need a Cruise Commander, and either John’s chuff stuff or a 4 lobe cam and fan smoke …

Pat

Haha I'm always here. I also know a guy who makes a really nice 4 Chuff cam 😉.

I don't see why not. Haven't checked the gear ratio, but it's got a Pittman, good space for electronics, and a decent layout inside.

@biscuitag97 posted:

Do any of you TMCC upgrade masters have a parts list for what is required for the upgrade for the NH I5? The original TAS electronics are unreliable at best. I was looking into the ERR kits but was wondering what I actually need.

And the legacy Dr. will see you now, …😁

Pat

One thing with working on the I5. At least the first run. Which may lead to erratic running.  Is The tender is insulated off the chassis with plastic like grommets. The shell is the antenna. Nothing new here. But the drawbar is attached to the shell. Not the chassis. You can probably see where this is going. There is an insulating washer that just sets in the drawbar and then into the pin on the engine. Easily will fall out if your separating the engine and tender on the layout. Glue it in place. Cost me 2 days of troubleshooting before the lightbulb went off as to what the problem was. Luckily found the washer down between the ties right where I removed it.

My own I5 is from the 1st run. EOB was added to give it cruise and 4 chuffs. Good runner but could stand a little more weight even with traction tires. It has a good strong motor. What you want for sound. Is the set ror the Daylight.  If you have watched A Great Railroad at Work. The whistle sounds pretty close. I’m not big on smoke effects but whistle steam would be awesome on this engine.

Marty Fitzhenry was a big NH fan and grew up right near their tracks and remembered the I5 As a kid. Marty liked diecast and MTH. He found one at a good price and added DCS and it became a favorite.

@Dave_C posted:

One thing with working on the I5. At least the first run. Which may lead to erratic running.  Is The tender is insulated off the chassis with plastic like grommets. The shell is the antenna. Nothing new here. But the drawbar is attached to the shell. Not the chassis. You can probably see where this is going. There is an insulating washer that just sets in the drawbar and then into the pin on the engine. Easily will fall out if your separating the engine and tender on the layout. Glue it in place. Cost me 2 days of troubleshooting before the lightbulb went off as to what the problem was. Luckily found the washer down between the ties right where I removed it.

My own I5 is from the 1st run. EOB was added to give it cruise and 4 chuffs. Good runner but could stand a little more weight even with traction tires. It has a good strong motor. What you want for sound. Is the set ror the Daylight.  If you have watched A Great Railroad at Work. The whistle sounds pretty close. I’m not big on smoke effects but whistle steam would be awesome on this engine.

Marty Fitzhenry was a big NH fan and grew up right near their tracks and remembered the I5 As a kid. Marty liked diecast and MTH. He found one at a good price and added DCS and it became a favorite.

I've never had any issues with the performance of these engines. I also put PS2 in mine, but did a tmcc one as seen above.

https://youtu.be/VB70N84jZWQ

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