Has anyone changed a tire on an I-5 Hudson? I used the tool provided by Weaver to remove the screw holding the drive rid on and removed and replaced the tire, When I reinstalled the screw holding the rods on either side of the locomotive, the rod hole now appears to be too big and won't stay in place. I paid particular attention to be sure what came off and I didn't see any other tiny parts. Does anyone have an answer? The Weaver O&M Manual leaves something to be desired. Thank you in advance. Bill Parl
Replies sorted oldest to newest
I just put some tires on a Weaver steam engine for a fella, …..the rod screws had a tiny washer that retains the rod ….maybe yours were just missing from the get go and never noticed…..I’ve seen crazy things like that before……so just find some tiny washers, stick them on there, and call it done and run it…..😉
Pat
Hi Brian, Thanks for your reply. That a washer was there makes sense but I was careful to make sure the fastener I took out was complete. However what you said makes perfect sense so I will have to find some washers that small somewhere to put it back together. Thanks for your help. Bill Park
Give me a day and I’ll look at mine. I changed the traction tires many years ago. What may have happened. When you removed the screw. The washer may have remained on the side rod. Maneuvering the new tires on may have dislodged them to the work area. Give the area a good look.
Easier to find then I thought. There is a washer. It tightens against a bushing so washer thickness shouldn’t matter but it is thin.
if you used a foam cradle. Check all the nooks. Run a magnet over the area. Or maybe as Pat said. Someone else could have been in there before and they weren’t put back.
Attachments
@Dave_C posted:Easier to find then I thought. There is a washer. It tightens against a bushing so washer thickness shouldn’t matter but it is thin.
if you used a foam cradle. Check all the nooks. Run a magnet over the area. Or maybe as Pat said. Someone else could have been in there before and they weren’t put back.
Dave, any chance you can you give the fella at least the O.D. of the washer?, ….he might get lucky at Ace Hardware or an old time hardware store that USED to keep goodies like that…..this way he can carry a pair of calipers with him for the hunt….
Pat
I’ve got it being a 2mm screw. O.D. of the washer measures 4.9 mm . The only thing I have is some #2’s which are a bit bigger than 2mm. Check your local Ace Hardware in the Stainless section. They have 2mm. A hobby shop specializing in RC cars might have them. If not www.microfasteners.com. You will have to buy about 50. But they aren’t expensive and they ship quick.
@Dave_C posted:I’ve got it being a 2mm screw. O.D. of the washer measures 4.9 mm . The only thing I have is some #2’s which are a bit bigger than 2mm. Check your local Ace Hardware in the Stainless section. They have 2mm. A hobby shop specializing in RC cars might have them. If not www.microfasteners.com. You will have to buy about 50. But they aren’t expensive and they ship quick.
Very cool, …now the OP is armed with knowledge!…..let’s get it fixed!…thanks Dave!
Pat
You guys are amazing!!!!
@Bill Park posted:You guys are amazing!!!!
I don’t know about Dave, but I’ve been called every name in the book, …..amazing ain’t one of them…😉
Pat
Pat, When you got it, you got it, Just go with it. Thanks for the help. Bill
@Bill Park posted:Pat, When you got it, you got it, Just go with it. Thanks for the help. Bill
Yep,…I’ve made a career out of nodding, smiling, and pretending I’ve got my finger on the pulse,…..just never let ‘em see ya sweat!….
Pat
Do any of you TMCC upgrade masters have a parts list for what is required for the upgrade for the NH I5? The original TAS electronics are unreliable at best. I was looking into the ERR kits but was wondering what I actually need.
@biscuitag97 posted:Do any of you TMCC upgrade masters have a parts list for what is required for the upgrade for the NH I5? The original TAS electronics are unreliable at best. I was looking into the ERR kits but was wondering what I actually need.
ERR Cruise Commander
ERR Rail sounds Commander
If it doesn't already a fan driven smoke unit of smoke kinda and a GRJ Super chuffer.
Here is one I upgraded using the original TAS smoke unit. So no super chuffer was used.
Video link: https://youtu.be/TQDgOjCY5pY
@biscuitag97 posted:Do any of you TMCC upgrade masters have a parts list for what is required for the upgrade for the NH I5? The original TAS electronics are unreliable at best. I was looking into the ERR kits but was wondering what I actually need.
Don’t even mess with it, ….send to Sid for a Legacy swap!….you’ll be glad you did!!…..just close your eyes and say yes!….☺️……as far as ERR, I’m not sure if you can salvage the sound system or not from the TAS, but at very least, you’ll need a Cruise Commander, and either John’s chuff stuff or a 4 lobe cam and fan smoke …
Pat
@Sid's Trains posted:ERR Cruise Commander
ERR Rail sounds Commander
If it doesn't already a fan driven smoke unit of smoke kinda and a GRJ Super chuffer.
Here is one I upgraded using the original TAS smoke unit. So no super chuffer was used.
Video link: https://youtu.be/TQDgOjCY5pY
Can you legacy swap one of these Sid?
Pat
@harmonyards posted:Don’t even mess with it, ….send to Sid for a Legacy swap!….you’ll be glad you did!!…..just close your eyes and say yes!….☺️……as far as ERR, I’m not sure if you can salvage the sound system or not from the TAS, but at very least, you’ll need a Cruise Commander, and either John’s chuff stuff or a 4 lobe cam and fan smoke …
Pat
Haha I'm always here. I also know a guy who makes a really nice 4 Chuff cam 😉.
@harmonyards posted:Can you legacy swap one of these Sid?
Pat
I don't see why not. Haven't checked the gear ratio, but it's got a Pittman, good space for electronics, and a decent layout inside.
@Sid's Trains posted:I don't see why not. Haven't checked the gear ratio, but it's got a Pittman, good space for electronics, and a decent layout inside.
@biscuitag97 posted:Do any of you TMCC upgrade masters have a parts list for what is required for the upgrade for the NH I5? The original TAS electronics are unreliable at best. I was looking into the ERR kits but was wondering what I actually need.
And the legacy Dr. will see you now, …😁
Pat
One thing with working on the I5. At least the first run. Which may lead to erratic running. Is The tender is insulated off the chassis with plastic like grommets. The shell is the antenna. Nothing new here. But the drawbar is attached to the shell. Not the chassis. You can probably see where this is going. There is an insulating washer that just sets in the drawbar and then into the pin on the engine. Easily will fall out if your separating the engine and tender on the layout. Glue it in place. Cost me 2 days of troubleshooting before the lightbulb went off as to what the problem was. Luckily found the washer down between the ties right where I removed it.
My own I5 is from the 1st run. EOB was added to give it cruise and 4 chuffs. Good runner but could stand a little more weight even with traction tires. It has a good strong motor. What you want for sound. Is the set ror the Daylight. If you have watched A Great Railroad at Work. The whistle sounds pretty close. I’m not big on smoke effects but whistle steam would be awesome on this engine.
Marty Fitzhenry was a big NH fan and grew up right near their tracks and remembered the I5 As a kid. Marty liked diecast and MTH. He found one at a good price and added DCS and it became a favorite.
@Dave_C posted:One thing with working on the I5. At least the first run. Which may lead to erratic running. Is The tender is insulated off the chassis with plastic like grommets. The shell is the antenna. Nothing new here. But the drawbar is attached to the shell. Not the chassis. You can probably see where this is going. There is an insulating washer that just sets in the drawbar and then into the pin on the engine. Easily will fall out if your separating the engine and tender on the layout. Glue it in place. Cost me 2 days of troubleshooting before the lightbulb went off as to what the problem was. Luckily found the washer down between the ties right where I removed it.
My own I5 is from the 1st run. EOB was added to give it cruise and 4 chuffs. Good runner but could stand a little more weight even with traction tires. It has a good strong motor. What you want for sound. Is the set ror the Daylight. If you have watched A Great Railroad at Work. The whistle sounds pretty close. I’m not big on smoke effects but whistle steam would be awesome on this engine.
Marty Fitzhenry was a big NH fan and grew up right near their tracks and remembered the I5 As a kid. Marty liked diecast and MTH. He found one at a good price and added DCS and it became a favorite.
I've never had any issues with the performance of these engines. I also put PS2 in mine, but did a tmcc one as seen above.
Gentlemen, Your responses to my issue were greatly appreciated. I ordered stainless steel washers first thing this morning on line in #0 #1 & #2 to be sure and get this corrected. Had to buy 100 of each size, but no issue. Should anyone need any of these sizes, let me know and they are yours. I'll even pay the postage. Bill