What did you do on your layout today?

Yesterday I thought I would of gotten my Balsa wood but I talked myself out of it. Plus I didn't have the 40% coupon with me. This morning  I added another coat of earth color so that area is done. While I was down there I had an Atlas car that was converted into a wood chip car. At the time I bought it a year or so ago I had bought it along with a bunch of Weaver wood chip hopper kits. I thought at the time it was the one Weaver did for Brentwood Antiques a number of years back ( car was a BAR ). I kept it but was always bothered by the trucks under it which made it sit too high. So today I finally had the trucks to replace those. I used Weaver trucks I picked up on EBAY. Getting the old trucks off was a bit tedious.  On one truck the screw would not come out. So I had to take the car apart to see what was wrong. The plastic fitting was turning in the hole so I decided to pull both of them out and add a drop of glue to hold them in place. That did the trick but I had to wait for the mail to come. I found place with the help of the forum to get the right size screws. So now the car is done, I took pictures of before and after to show how the car sat and sits now. The trucks on there were MTH trucks which had a high bolster and with the Weaver trucks it sits much lower. So hopefully later tonight I can apply some ground foam and work with the Balsa wood to make my approached to the track. Pics..............Paul

Elliot, you got a boat load of stuff done! More then most of us would do in a day!  Looks GREAT! 

Elliot, when you have a slow day the next day you more then make up for it. Really taking shape plus you are getting more to the fun stuff......scenery, not so much ballasting. So I forgot to mention something in my last post. What is the best way to cut Balsa wood, Especially cross grain to get a neat cut. Any help is appreciated. Thanks Paul

paul 2 posted:

Yesterday I thought I would of gotten my Balsa wood but I talked myself out of it. Plus I didn't have the 40% coupon with me. This morning  I added another coat of earth color so that area is done. While I was down there I had an Atlas car that was converted into a wood chip car. At the time I bought it a year or so ago I had bought it along with a bunch of Weaver wood chip hopper kits. I thought at the time it was the one Weaver did for Brentwood Antiques a number of years back ( car was a BAR ). I kept it but was always bothered by the trucks under it which made it sit too high. So today I finally had the trucks to replace those. I used Weaver trucks I picked up on EBAY. Getting the old trucks off was a bit tedious.  On one truck the screw would not come out. So I had to take the car apart to see what was wrong. The plastic fitting was turning in the hole so I decided to pull both of them out and add a drop of glue to hold them in place. That did the trick but I had to wait for the mail to come. I found place with the help of the forum to get the right size screws. So now the car is done, I took pictures of before and after to show how the car sat and sits now. The trucks on there were MTH trucks which had a high bolster and with the Weaver trucks it sits much lower. So hopefully later tonight I can apply some ground foam and work with the Balsa wood to make my approached to the track. Pics..............Paul

Hobby Lobby? Download the Hobby Lobby app and you'll always have a 40% off coupon with you.  I did that yesterday to grab a second Just Plug light hub.

paul 2 posted:

What is the best way to cut Balsa wood, Especially cross grain to get a neat cut. Any help is appreciated. Thanks Paul

I think the answer is a fresh #11 X-acto blade and a cutting mat under it, is the way to go. I haven't touched the stuff in years, in favor of basswood. I know it tears easily on the crosscut.

a razon=saw works well, just slow and easy, xacto knive on smaller, a hobby size miter

box helps a lot

razor saw........

Paul, way to keep going! As for the balsa wood I use my bandsaw with a fine tooth blade.

Deuce posted:

paul 2 posted:

Yesterday I thought I would of gotten my Balsa wood but I talked myself out of it. Plus I didn't have the 40% coupon with me. This morning  I added another coat of earth color so that area is done. While I was down there I had an Atlas car that was converted into a wood chip car. At the time I bought it a year or so ago I had bought it along with a bunch of Weaver wood chip hopper kits. I thought at the time it was the one Weaver did for Brentwood Antiques a number of years back ( car was a BAR ). I kept it but was always bothered by the trucks under it which made it sit too high. So today I finally had the trucks to replace those. I used Weaver trucks I picked up on EBAY. Getting the old trucks off was a bit tedious.  On one truck the screw would not come out. So I had to take the car apart to see what was wrong. The plastic fitting was turning in the hole so I decided to pull both of them out and add a drop of glue to hold them in place. That did the trick but I had to wait for the mail to come. I found place with the help of the forum to get the right size screws. So now the car is done, I took pictures of before and after to show how the car sat and sits now. The trucks on there were MTH trucks which had a high bolster and with the Weaver trucks it sits much lower. So hopefully later tonight I can apply some ground foam and work with the Balsa wood to make my approached to the track. Pics..............Paul

Hobby Lobby? Download the Hobby Lobby app and you'll always have a 40% off coupon with you.  I did that yesterday to grab a second Just Plug light hub.

Deuce I didn't know Hobby Lobby had Woodland Scenics!!   This is the 4rth day I've been waiting for my light hub with lights to get here.  So much for Amazon Prime 2 day shipping!  lol    

Paul I cut up balsa sticks with a razor blade.   It worked but not very smooth.   

Elliot Ive not got to ballast yet.   But it looks like the least fun anyone can have with a railroad!!! : ) 

Jim 

Mark Boyce posted:

Lee, your random shots are all great!!!!

Thanks, Mark and Bob (RSJB18)!

I posted it in a couple of other places that seemed relevant as well here. I took that in a series of shots to show someone the civilian vehicles on the layout (of which, there aren't many, considering the WW2 years I model), but I liked how it looked in color and thought in sepia it might pop better.

Just a random cell shot, I didn't even move anything to take it, other than the cell to get a good angle.

beardog posted:

razor saw........

 

Beardog   I got that old stuff out.  Most of it is an American Flyer set ..  303 engine (4-4-2) 4 cars and a caboose.   But I do have a Marx 666 engine and red B&O car.  

Jim 

briansilvermustang posted:

Brian, can you show me some DM&IRR?????

Dave

carsntrains posted:

beardog posted:

razor saw........

 

Beardog   I got that old stuff out.  Most of it is an American Flyer set ..  303 engine (4-4-2) 4 cars and a caboose.   But I do have a Marx 666 engine and red B&O car.  

 

Jim 

Thanks, Jim. But i do have all of those

John

carsntrains posted:

beardog posted:

razor saw........

 

Beardog   I got that old stuff out.  Most of it is an American Flyer set ..  303 engine (4-4-2) 4 cars and a caboose.   But I do have a Marx 666 engine and red B&O car.  

 

Jim 

Jim, looks great!  my only Marx engine is a 666.   I have the whole boxed set it came in.  From Girard, Pennsylvania not that far from here.

Guys..  Bad thing about it is I have no use for the AF or the MARX stuff.   And no idea if they run or not. I was told that they may be DC??   I guess I could use them as some sort of stand in on my layout.   ???  Cool looking engines! 

Jim 

Paul and Elliot, that’s a lot of work you both accomplished!  Paul, I like your shiny, white workbench! LOL. You look like me, not much room, so I work on whatever is handy!

carsntrains posted:

Guys..  Bad thing about it is I have no use for the AF or the MARX stuff.   And no idea if they run or not. I was told that they may be DC??   I guess I could use them as some sort of stand in on my layout.   ???  Cool looking engines! 

 

Jim 

Hmmm, I only got my Marx a couple years ago from a guy who had already given it a tuneup.  The Marx transformer is in the box too, and I don’t recall which it is, AC or DC, or both, but it hummed along nicely. The box os buried in a closet.  Hopefully an expert will respond before I can dig it out.

Mark Boyce posted:

carsntrains posted:

Guys..  Bad thing about it is I have no use for the AF or the MARX stuff.   And no idea if they run or not. I was told that they may be DC??   I guess I could use them as some sort of stand in on my layout.   ???  Cool looking engines! 

 

Jim 

Hmmm, I only got my Marx a couple years ago from a guy who had already given it a tuneup.  The Marx transformer is in the box too, and I don’t recall which it is, AC or DC, or both, but it hummed along nicely. The box os buried in a closet.  Hopefully an expert will respond before I can dig it out.

No worries Mark.   I've had that old thing since I was a kid : )    I used to put it on Lionel track and pull it with my DT&I switcher.   Since both outside rails are ground it shouldn't have damaged it lol 

Jim 

carsntrains posted:

Mark Boyce posted:

carsntrains posted:

Guys..  Bad thing about it is I have no use for the AF or the MARX stuff.   And no idea if they run or not. I was told that they may be DC??   I guess I could use them as some sort of stand in on my layout.   ???  Cool looking engines! 

 

Jim 

Hmmm, I only got my Marx a couple years ago from a guy who had already given it a tuneup.  The Marx transformer is in the box too, and I don’t recall which it is, AC or DC, or both, but it hummed along nicely. The box os buried in a closet.  Hopefully an expert will respond before I can dig it out.

No worries Mark.   I've had that old thing since I was a kid : )    I used to put it on Lionel track and pull it with my DT&I switcher.   Since both outside rails are ground it shouldn't have damaged it lol 

Jim 

I had some Marx toys, but not a train.  Dad said a train set was too expensive for Christmas, so I saved money and finally bought a Tyco HO set when I was about 12.  About 1968.  Dad made it into a good learning experience on saving for something, then I used wood and wiring skills he taught me to build my own 4 x 8 layout.

Mark Boyce posted:

carsntrains posted:

Mark Boyce posted:

carsntrains posted:

Guys..  Bad thing about it is I have no use for the AF or the MARX stuff.   And no idea if they run or not. I was told that they may be DC??   I guess I could use them as some sort of stand in on my layout.   ???  Cool looking engines! 

 

Jim 

Hmmm, I only got my Marx a couple years ago from a guy who had already given it a tuneup.  The Marx transformer is in the box too, and I don’t recall which it is, AC or DC, or both, but it hummed along nicely. The box os buried in a closet.  Hopefully an expert will respond before I can dig it out.

No worries Mark.   I've had that old thing since I was a kid : )    I used to put it on Lionel track and pull it with my DT&I switcher.   Since both outside rails are ground it shouldn't have damaged it lol 

Jim 

I had some Marx toys, but not a train.  Dad said a train set was too expensive for Christmas, so I saved money and finally bought a Tyco HO set when I was about 12.  About 1968.  Dad made it into a good learning experience on saving for something, then I used wood and wiring skills he taught me to build my own 4 x 8 layout.

Great learning experience Mark!  I wasn't exactly in the same boat.  But I still have all my trains from childhood.  You would not believe my HO collection!   I think I have 40 or more engines.  Most of which I bought myself as a kid/teen.  Have a couple sets of N.  My eyes and hands said O GAUGE LOL   

Jim 

Edit.   AND why I don't know.  But I had a desire to own many many Chattanooga Tyco engines.   Loved the early ones with all the side rods and stuff on it.   Amazing times learning the motor was in the tender.  And finding an add in model railroading from a hobby shop in Ohio that had bought all of Tycos spare parts.   Which I have new motors, gears, axles, well you name it for a Chattanooga engine lol 

carsntrains posted:

Mark Boyce posted:

carsntrains posted:

Guys..  Bad thing about it is I have no use for the AF or the MARX stuff.   And no idea if they run or not. I was told that they may be DC??   I guess I could use them as some sort of stand in on my layout.   ???  Cool looking engines! 

 

Jim 

Hmmm, I only got my Marx a couple years ago from a guy who had already given it a tuneup.  The Marx transformer is in the box too, and I don’t recall which it is, AC or DC, or both, but it hummed along nicely. The box os buried in a closet.  Hopefully an expert will respond before I can dig it out.

No worries Mark.   I've had that old thing since I was a kid : )    I used to put it on Lionel track and pull it with my DT&I switcher.   Since both outside rails are ground it shouldn't have damaged it lol 

Jim 

Jim, the 666 is a great runnning engine, is AC, but may run on DC like lionel does and the boxcar

looks good too.

John

Wow, Jim!  I ran the wheels off the same F7 for years!  The set was heat damaged in storage and I threw them out years ago!

John, I was thinking that was the case, but wasn’t sure.  Thank you! Now I don’t have to stop watching Poirot and dig the Marx out!  LOL

carsntrains posted:

Guys..  Bad thing about it is I have no use for the AF or the MARX stuff.   And no idea if they run or not.

Well, if you're looking to rehome the AF stuff, the museum I volunteer at is in need of an American Flyer loco and cars...   

http://www.arkansasonline.com/...?f=news-arkansas-nwa  ;-) 

I could be interested in the marx depending on how much you want for it

John

Got one of the AF aluminum Zephyrs running today. I would have done it 

last night, but was dogsitting and the little guy is not a train fan.

Funny, I was given a box of old trains and now I know what they are...... It is a Marx 1666 NYC with tender, caboose, and a few other cars.  The couplers always threw me off.  I guess I should see if it will run or not.  Learn new stuff here everyday!

and it is easy to work on, if it hasn't run it 60 years a little WD40 and some contact cleaner.

Clean the wheels and the pickups and it will almost always run like new. 

As opposed to what I am hearing about a lot of brand new lionel lately. 

And the marx is a lot cheaper.

carsntrains posted:

Guys..  Bad thing about it is I have no use for the AF or the MARX stuff.   And no idea if they run or not. I was told that they may be DC??   I guess I could use them as some sort of stand in on my layout.   ???  Cool looking engines! 

 

Jim 

why not put them on the for sale forum here....someone will snatch them up.

Steamer posted:

carsntrains posted:

Guys..  Bad thing about it is I have no use for the AF or the MARX stuff.   And no idea if they run or not. I was told that they may be DC??   I guess I could use them as some sort of stand in on my layout.   ???  Cool looking engines! 

 

Jim 

why not put them on the for sale forum here....someone will snatch them up.

beardog posted:

I could be interested in the marx depending on how much you want for it

John

Yes Jim, you never know who may be interested.  John got me thinking about mine.  I hate to have trains sit in a box, and have no display room.  I may list my set, as I am cleaning house.

Yay, finished my taxes, $600 in extra train money.

beardog posted:

Yay, finished my taxes, $600 in extra train money.

That's good news indeed!!!

Masked off the RSD-4 chassis for painting the rails white:  

And the first test fitting!  Still have to touch up a bit of overspray once the rails dry completely... 

Mitch 

new delivery.

3rd rail D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 with green boiler (anniversary series: last year).

Got this off of ebay at a very reasonable price. 

Looks like, at most, it was test run.

Fuzzy picture but the smoke deflector is functional.

Another fuzzy picture: nice coal load.

Choice of two 'cow catchers'.  Deck plate was pulled off in transit.  They didn't wrap the engine or tender in paper and plastic.  Lucky no serious damage.

Tender front ladders also bent but able to straighten those.

A very heavy engine.

Samparfitt,

Wow!!!!  That is one great looking locomotive!!  I love the green!  Congratulations on getting it at a great price!!  I'll be looking forward to seeing it running, if you please.  

M. Mitchell Marmel posted:

Masked off the RSD-4 chassis for painting the rails white:  

And the first test fitting!  Still have to touch up a bit of overspray once the rails dry completely... 

Mitch 

Please don't take this as encouragement, Mitch, but that looks rather striking.

It is a dandy, Mitch!!  Does it just get the Razorback logo, or is the name going to be on it also?? 

Apples55 posted:

M. Mitchell Marmel posted:

Masked off the RSD-4 chassis for painting the rails white:  

And the first test fitting!  Still have to touch up a bit of overspray once the rails dry completely... 

Mitch 

Please don't take this as encouragement, Mitch, but that looks rather striking.

I'm with Paul. It does look rather sharp. Are you going to number it?

And- Mitch- PLEASE don't take this as encouragement to defile another RS-4 again

Bob

Apples55 posted:

Please don't take this as encouragement, Mitch, but that looks rather striking.

Thankee!  Couldn't have done it without your kind assistance!  

Mark Boyce posted:

It is a dandy, Mitch!!  Does it just get the Razorback logo, or is the name going to be on it also?? 

RSJB18 posted:

I'm with Paul. It does look rather sharp. Are you going to number it?

When finances permit, I do plan on getting lettering and number decals made for the RTC fleet...  

And- Mitch- PLEASE don't take this as encouragement to defile another RS-4 again

Oh, no fears.  I'll figure out something ELSE to corrupt!  

Mitch 

samparfitt posted:

new delivery.

3rd rail D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2 with green boiler (anniversary series: last year).

Got this off of ebay at a very reasonable price. 

Looks like, at most, it was test run.

Fuzzy picture but the smoke deflector is functional.

 

Another fuzzy picture: nice coal load.

 

Choice of two 'cow catchers'.  Deck plate was pulled off in transit.  They didn't wrap the engine or tender in paper and plastic.  Lucky no serious damage.

Tender front ladders also bent but able to straighten those.

A very heavy engine.

 

You've got yourself one beautiful locomotive. Congratulations!

M. Mitchell Marmel posted:

And- Mitch- PLEASE don't take this as encouragement to defile another RS-4 again

Oh, no fears.  I'll figure out something ELSE to corrupt!  

Mitch 

Well, fortunately for Mitch, that engine was 27 years old, so he can't be brought up on charges for corruption of a minor   

Mitch, I like that engine. It's rad. So yesterday my Weaver trucks and couplers came form EBAY so I mounted then to a Weaver TOFC I had gotten minus the trucks. This morning with the weather nice I put a new belt on the band saw wheel. Thanks for the ideas on how to cut the Balsa I decided on the band saw for a smoother cut. So I got all the pieces for the crossing cut. Now I just have to fine tune them to get them in place. Decided on concrete for the approaches and in between the three tracks between the rails the look of wood planking stain wood. Pics..............Paul

Nice work there Paul! You can just use a sanding block to fine tune your boards!

Samperfit:  What a really gorgeous engine!  Let us know how well it runs.  

Probably be a little too big for my layout, my minimum curve is about 64" in diameter, and I'm also sure that the front of the boiler would slam into a couple of my tunnel portals on it's way around.    And for me, if it ain't Milwaukee Road, it don't go on my layout, but that doesn't mean that I can't admire your recent acquisition.

Paul Fischer

Did some work on the control panel

Can't blame the  camera there.  I'D be blurry too after looking at that much wire!   

Mitch

3rd rail D&RGW L-131.

Set up and test run.

I actually read the manual!

Interesting: says don't use MTH Z750 or Z1000 or you're ruin the electronics.

I've got the MTH Z4000 so OK (at least that's the one I used to test).

It said to run conventional the first time to make sure there is no binding, etc or you'll, again ruin the electronics, gears, etc.

Ran well on straight track but the drivers are coming off  after coming out of a turn (72" minimum radius).

I was testing over three turnouts so I tried strictly on curve track:  Same thing.

It looks like the oiling mechanism is sticking up too high and scraping on the bottom of the boiler.  I also checked to insure the two plates between the front engine and boiler were connected as there is a lip on the engine side.  I also put a little oil along the plates and the roller that contacts the engine plate.

I ran the engine clockwise and the wheels stay on so it appears the oiling mechanism is a little too high. 

I checked the plates and oiling mechanism to see if I could make some adjustments on height but nada.  Called Scott at 3rd rail but they work Monday's, Wednesday's and Friday's  (almost as good as my retirement days, but not quite!).

Anyway, I switched it to PROG, and inputted the engine onto my MTH throttle.

I find MTH's throttle more user friendly, plus I can load lionel onto MTH but not vise versa. 

I'll post this now and get the pictures processed as well as a short video and post these, later.

OK, pictures posted: still waiting for youtube to finish.

While checking the front, one of the steam pipes is rigid and the other rotates in the front engine, as it should.

Looking at the bottom of the boiler, there are two slots with enlargements at one end.  This is normal on my HO engines but there is always another steam pipe that fits into the slot and then telescopes into the engine steam pipe.  It appears they planned on doing that but there is no extra steam pipe in the box or package and the flexible steam pipe on the engine has no hole in it but this side could be the male end.

Will have to ask Scott, tomorrow about that.

This engine is brand new and has never been run.

I'll also admit that running on carpet isn't the best base as the track can bend down and cause unevenness, but still, it should handle it as I've got 3rd rail NP Z-8, Z-5, A-4, GN M-2, MTH DM&IR M-4, GN Z-6, S-2 and R-2 and they all run with no problems on the 'carpet central'.

Working marker lights and number boards, a given on the headlight.

Nice cab detail and lighted.

Dog house also lighted.

Here's the oil lubricator that is scratching the bottom of the boiler.

Nice nomenclature there on the side of the boiler.

Hey, all I have to do is run it clockwise1

3rd Rail D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2:

Video: not a very long video. She has a great chuffing and whistle!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

mike g. posted:

Elliot, you got a boat load of stuff done! More then most of us would do in a day!  Looks GREAT! 

paul 2 posted:

Elliot, when you have a slow day the next day you more then make up for it. Really taking shape plus you are getting more to the fun stuff......scenery, not so much ballasting. So I forgot to mention something in my last post. What is the best way to cut Balsa wood, Especially cross grain to get a neat cut. Any help is appreciated. Thanks Paul

Mark Boyce posted:

Paul and Elliot, that’s a lot of work you both accomplished!  Paul, I like your shiny, white workbench! LOL. You look like me, not much room, so I work on whatever is handy!

Mike - Thanks, but I do put in extra long days with this convention coming up. He's supposed to come out for pictures in a couple weeks. I'm at a bit of a loss what we're going to shoot and the place is a mess.

Paul - Don't forget, I usually only work Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays. Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays I have dialysis, so I usually take a nap after dinner and don't make it downstairs. That's why my work days are so long, because I feel the best then.

Mark - Thanks for visiting my YouTube channel!

I'm downstairs right now, just taking a short break from the ballast. Looks like I'll be dragging in a couple more bags for sifting tonight, after dinner and the hockey game.

carsntrains posted:   

Elliot Ive not got to ballast yet.   But it looks like the least fun anyone can have with a railroad!!! : ) 

Jim 

Maybe so Jim, but it is very satisfying when it's done, and it makes it look like a real railroad.

This afternoon I got all the Balsa cut. The two approaches I carefully sanded the ends where it will meet the brick. The wood between the rails I kept cutting with an X Acto knife until I got a wheel set to run through without rubbing. I got the last of my brick road paper and started laying out the lower road. I found some wood stain so I can stain the wood between the rails. All and a pretty good afternoon. Pics..................Paul

mike g. posted:

Nice work there Paul! You can just use a sanding block to fine tune your boards!

Paul, Ditto on the nice work!  I'm glad the Weaver trucks and couplers came.  What does the trailer look like.  I have one like that in Bessemer and Lake Erie.  

samparfitt posted:

3rd Rail D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2:

Video: not a very long video. She has a great chuffing and whistle!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

Wow, it looks and sounds great!  Now if you can get through to Scot and Company tomorrow and solve the lubricator rubbing the boiler problem you will be cookin!!

Mark, I think the flat I was working on was for a Pennsy trailer. Not totally sure. I'll check after dinner. I think I have about forty of the Weaver TOFC's now. Some were two rail that I have been changing out as I got three trucks and couplers for them......................Paul

Paul, about 40!!!  Wow!!  I'm 39 behind you!  

Changing two rail to three rail!  I missed that, or forgot.  Now I understand what you are up to. 

samparfitt posted:

3rd rail D&RGW L-131.

Set up and test run.

I actually read the manual!

Interesting: says don't use MTH Z750 or Z1000 or you're ruin the electronics.

I've got the MTH Z4000 so OK (at least that's the one I used to test).

It said to run conventional the first time to make sure there is no binding, etc or you'll, again ruin the electronics, gears, etc.

Ran well on straight track but the drivers are coming off  after coming out of a turn (72" minimum radius).

I was testing over three turnouts so I tried strictly on curve track:  Same thing.

It looks like the oiling mechanism is sticking up too high and scraping on the bottom of the boiler.  I also checked to insure the two plates between the front engine and boiler were connected as there is a lip on the engine side.  I also put a little oil along the plates and the roller that contacts the engine plate.

I ran the engine clockwise and the wheels stay on so it appears the oiling mechanism is a little too high. 

I checked the plates and oiling mechanism to see if I could make some adjustments on height but nada.  Called Scott at 3rd rail but they work Monday's, Wednesday's and Friday's  (almost as good as my retirement days, but not quite!).

Anyway, I switched it to PROG, and inputted the engine onto my MTH throttle.

I find MTH's throttle more user friendly, plus I can load lionel onto MTH but not vise versa. 

I'll post this now and get the pictures processed as well as a short video and post these, later.

OK, pictures posted: still waiting for youtube to finish.

While checking the front, one of the steam pipes is rigid and the other rotates in the front engine, as it should.

Looking at the bottom of the boiler, there are two slots with enlargements at one end.  This is normal on my HO engines but there is always another steam pipe that fits into the slot and then telescopes into the engine steam pipe.  It appears they planned on doing that but there is no extra steam pipe in the box or package and the flexible steam pipe on the engine has no hole in it but this side could be the male end.

Will have to ask Scott, tomorrow about that.

This engine is brand new and has never been run.

I'll also admit that running on carpet isn't the best base as the track can bend down and cause unevenness, but still, it should handle it as I've got 3rd rail NP Z-8, Z-5, A-4, GN M-2, MTH DM&IR M-4, GN Z-6, S-2 and R-2 and they all run with no problems on the 'carpet central'.

Working marker lights and number boards, a given on the headlight.

Nice cab detail and lighted.

 

 

 

I’m unfamiliar with 3rd Rail engines except that they tend to be way out of my price range. The detail is terrific.

samparfitt posted:

3rd Rail D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2:

Video: not a very long video. She has a great chuffing and whistle!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

Awesome!

Big_Boy_4005 posted:

carsntrains posted:   

Elliot Ive not got to ballast yet.   But it looks like the least fun anyone can have with a railroad!!! : ) 

Jim 

Maybe so Jim, but it is very satisfying when it's done, and it makes it look like a real railroad.

Elliot that is true.   The harder or more aggravating the project is, the better you feel about a good outcome!  Just limit the aggravating and have a lot more good outcome!  Awesome work you guys have done!  My son helps me with the hard stuff!  

Jim  

WOW guys!!!  I got some new buildings in and was happy with myself ...  for a minute!  Y'all have really been working hard and got some awesome equipment!!    

I've never seen a more impressive ball of wires than that control panel!!!  I have some electricians that I know that would have a fit if they seen that!  But if it works more power too you Eric!!!  

Waiting on my refund from said dealer.   They received those reindeer cars today.  Waiting until they refund it to order some from another forum sponsor!   

Jim : ) 

paul 2 posted:

Mark, I think the flat I was working on was for a Pennsy trailer. Not totally sure. I'll check after dinner. I think I have about forty of the Weaver TOFC's now. Some were two rail that I have been changing out as I got three trucks and couplers for them......................Paul

Sorry Paul but what is a TOFC??  

Jim 

Arnold,

As long as you're having fun with what you have then what it cost means little.

3rd rail is an all brass model so they are limited production and have tons of detail.

Here's what they look like before painting:

Something a lot of engines don't have: lanyards for whistle and bell.

Always nice to be able to see 'in there'!

Well detailed cab.

samparfitt posted:

Arnold,

As long as you're having fun with what you have then what it cost means little.

3rd rail is an all brass model so they are limited production and have tons of detail.

Here's what they look like before painting:

Something a lot of engines don't have: lanyards for whistle and bell.

 

Always nice to be able to see 'in there'!

Well detailed cab.

 

Amazing, so I assume you painted your gorgeous engine. If so, what a great paint job you did. Seems to me that 3rd Rail engines are for the very serious and skilled modeler. Thanks for sharing this.

Jim, TOFC is an abbreviation for Trailer on a Flat Car. Mark I got the trailer out. Definitely PRR. Last couple of years I found a number of Weaver two rail TOFC"S. And on the forum here I found a guy who would make a switch with me. My two rail wheels for his three rail wheels. All I had to do was put the trucks back together with the three rail wheels. One person on the forum gave me a tip that worked for him. Run some thread through the spring. That way if the spring got away from me it was easier to find with the thread on it. The hardest thing has been to find Weaver three rail couplers. I have been lucky finding some on EBAY. I know I have  bunch in a box somewhere in this house but I have not found them yet. Here is a pic of the car...............................Paul

carsntrains posted:

Mark Boyce posted:

carsntrains posted:

Guys..  Bad thing about it is I have no use for the AF or the MARX stuff.   And no idea if they run or not. I was told that they may be DC??   I guess I could use them as some sort of stand in on my layout.   ???  Cool looking engines! 

 

Jim 

Hmmm, I only got my Marx a couple years ago from a guy who had already given it a tuneup.  The Marx transformer is in the box too, and I don’t recall which it is, AC or DC, or both, but it hummed along nicely. The box os buried in a closet.  Hopefully an expert will respond before I can dig it out.

No worries Mark.   I've had that old thing since I was a kid : )

 

 

   I used to put it on Lionel track and pull it with my DT&I switcher.   Since both outside rails are ground it shouldn't have damaged it lol 

Jim 

This last bit in the statement isn't quite correct ,Jim.  An ac motor is ok on dc 98% of the time. Safe to try 99.999% of the time because a motor sees the equivalent of a dc+ pulse when it sees an ac+ wave. It is the ac- wave that fries dc motors as the dc motor reverses direction when it sees the next wave which is ac-, doing that at 60 time a second burns it out.(the USA's 60hz)

When in doubt Jim, use DC. 

   So, a DC motor will most often fry on AC. Some may take a while, most fry near instantly to about a minute. Some may run if pushed to a running start, but they will Minsky fry in time, the "ground" wont save it. Our use of the term "ground" with our trains isn't even really correct; there is no true ground from track to transformer on O gauge AC. It is a "return", or leg, or a few other terms, but not a ground capable of protecting a DC motor from AC.

  We abuse the term because it usually conveys a thought we need it to, but be wary of context when you see it. 

Marx DC were battery operated in my experience. 

Shine the wheels* and shoes a bit, give it a push to freshen the brush contact and some oil to sooth it, and I bet it runs as well as when you boxed it.

  *There is likely a thin layer of corrosion on the wheels; they will brighten up and get better contact, but go light. They are softer than Lionel wheels, prone to cracking and disintegration too.  I'd get some use out of it while that is possible before it enters a near Dorfan state of "shelf queen". New wheels are not made.    

 We use them today for cost savings, but DC motors were used early on in the 1900s because batteries and even DC power lines were common in the early days of electricity.  If you were well off prewar, or later; rural, you may have had a battery bank and a wind or water generator, or had battery deliveries (along with your heating fuel, etc.) (  I have a photo somewhere of my Mom's Dad delivering about 8 batteries, two milk cans, 12 bags of flour and a bed of coal in HIS horse drawn delivery wagon at about 12yrs old.   He may have been the original photo-bomber..? He would get himself into a background and contact the photographer later. If he liked the focus enough he would ask for copies, some blown up, then crop them...prints were cheaper than film+prints )

I didn't dig out the Marx 666 set today, but I did lay some track down on the tabletop to see about cutting the rest of the table top wood.  It will work out nicely!

"Minsky"?  .....The composer is freaking out again ... I'm going to search for "Minsky" to see WTH it is 

I got a famous economics fellow, an award winning pizza joint, or a pioneer in artificial intelligence. Lol, the last holds enough irony to break a toe stumbling on it 

Arnold,

3rd rail engines come already painted as do most brass engines made these days.

The one I pictured without paint was made in 1978.

The bulk of my engines were not painted and I had to paint them.

This is the result of about 40 years of painting engines: it takes awhile to do them!

I still have 15-20 more engines to paint.

Adriatic posted:

carsntrains posted:

Mark Boyce posted:

carsntrains posted:

Guys..  Bad thing about it is I have no use for the AF or the MARX stuff.   And no idea if they run or not. I was told that they may be DC??   I guess I could use them as some sort of stand in on my layout.   ???  Cool looking engines! 

 

Jim 

Hmmm, I only got my Marx a couple years ago from a guy who had already given it a tuneup.  The Marx transformer is in the box too, and I don’t recall which it is, AC or DC, or both, but it hummed along nicely. The box os buried in a closet.  Hopefully an expert will respond before I can dig it out.

No worries Mark.   I've had that old thing since I was a kid : )

 

 

   I used to put it on Lionel track and pull it with my DT&I switcher.   Since both outside rails are ground it shouldn't have damaged it lol 

Jim 

This last bit in the statement isn't quite correct ,Jim.  An ac motor is ok on dc 98% of the time. Safe to try 99.999% of the time because a motor sees the equivalent of a dc+ pulse when it sees an ac+ wave. It is the ac- wave that fries dc motors as the dc motor reverses direction when it sees the next wave which is ac-, doing that at 60 time a second burns it out.(the USA's 60hz)

When in doubt Jim, use DC. 

   So, a DC motor will most often fry on AC. Some may take a while, most fry near instantly to about a minute. Some may run if pushed to a running start, but they will Minsky fry in time, the "ground" wont save it. Our use of the term "ground" with our trains isn't even really correct; there is no true ground from track to transformer on O gauge AC. It is a "return", or leg, or a few other terms, but not a ground capable of protecting a DC motor from AC.

  We abuse the term because it usually conveys a thought we need it to, but be wary of context when you see it. 

Marx DC were battery operated in my experience. 

Shine the wheels* and shoes a bit, give it a push to freshen the brush contact and some oil to sooth it, and I bet it runs as well as when you boxed it.

  *There is likely a thin layer of corrosion on the wheels; they will brighten up and get better contact, but go light. They are softer than Lionel wheels, prone to cracking and disintegration too.  I'd get some use out of it while that is possible before it enters a near Dorfan state of "shelf queen". New wheels are not made.    

 We use them today for cost savings, but DC motors were used early on in the 1900s because batteries and even DC power lines were common in the early days of electricity.  If you were well off prewar, or later; rural, you may have had a battery bank and a wind or water generator, or had battery deliveries (along with your heating fuel, etc.) (  I have a photo somewhere of my Mom's Dad delivering about 8 batteries, two milk cans, 12 bags of flour and a bed of coal in HIS horse drawn delivery wagon at about 12yrs old.   He may have been the original photo-bomber..? He would get himself into a background and contact the photographer later. If he liked the focus enough he would ask for copies, some blown up, then crop them...prints were cheaper than film+prints )

 

I'll tell you how little attention I paid to this engine.    I hadn't even turned it over in probably 40 years.    I thought it was two rail.  Dang thing is 3 rail lol  And yes we usually call the "return" the "ground".  

Jim 

samparfitt posted:

Arnold,

3rd rail engines come already painted as do most brass engines made these days.

The one I pictured without paint was made in 1978.

The bulk of my engines were not painted and I had to paint them.

This is the result of about 40 years of painting engines: it takes awhile to do them!

I still have 15-20 more engines to paint.

I can’t believe my eyes. You have a Railroad empire!  Like Commodore Vanderbuilt.

What a massive and spectacular round house and freight yard you have.

It’s makes things look so much more impressive and real when one has the luxury of a lot of space.

This reminds me of something. When Arnold Palmer was a senior golfer, he was quoted as saying “there is nothing like youth” when it comes to golf.

Similarly, “there is nothing like lots of space” when it comes to model railroading.

paul 2 posted:

Jim, TOFC is an abbreviation for Trailer on a Flat Car. Mark I got the trailer out. Definitely PRR. Last couple of years I found a number of Weaver two rail TOFC"S. And on the forum here I found a guy who would make a switch with me. My two rail wheels for his three rail wheels. All I had to do was put the trucks back together with the three rail wheels. One person on the forum gave me a tip that worked for him. Run some thread through the spring. That way if the spring got away from me it was easier to find with the thread on it. The hardest thing has been to find Weaver three rail couplers. I have been lucky finding some on EBAY. I know I have  bunch in a box somewhere in this house but I have not found them yet. Here is a pic of the car...............................Paul

Paul, That’s great!  The cars will look great!

finally got the lift out section done and in. I'm not going to miss crawling in there.

Adriatic posted:

I got a famous economics fellow, an award winning pizza joint, or a pioneer in artificial intelligence. Lol, the last holds enough irony to break a toe stumbling on it 

LOL

samparfitt posted:

Arnold,

3rd rail engines come already painted as do most brass engines made these days.

The one I pictured without paint was made in 1978.

The bulk of my engines were not painted and I had to paint them.

This is the result of about 40 years of painting engines: it takes awhile to do them!

I still have 15-20 more engines to paint.

Wow!!  I never realized you had so many!  Fourty a year!  One per year, perhaps.  That is believable.

Thanks Arnold.

Like price, one also doesn't need a lot of space either for a great looking layout and to have fun operating it.

I've seen some great track plans with lots of action in a relatively, small area.

This layout was started back in 1979 so it's had lots of time for 'development'.

Actually, it started back in the early 60's because a lot of building, etc were made back then on my first layout in my parent's basement.

It's been a lifetime development and 'keeps me off the streets at night!'

Mostly, I enjoy operating sessions with other railroaders that come over to operate the GNRW once a month.  The camaraderie is half the fun.

When I was buying a house, it had to be a ranch and, of course, a full basement

I finished scenicing the corner of my layout with my coal tower. Still a few minor items left: I will add a wood fence behind the shack and secure the tree. First time I built an asphalt road using fine and medium cinders/ballast. I’m satisfied with how it turned out. 

darlander posted:

briansilvermustang posted:

Brian, can you show me some DM&IRR?????

Dave

Big_Boy_4005 posted:

mike g. posted:

Elliot, you got a boat load of stuff done! More then most of us would do in a day!  Looks GREAT! 

paul 2 posted:

Elliot, when you have a slow day the next day you more then make up for it. Really taking shape plus you are getting more to the fun stuff......scenery, not so much ballasting. So I forgot to mention something in my last post. What is the best way to cut Balsa wood, Especially cross grain to get a neat cut. Any help is appreciated. Thanks Paul

Mark Boyce posted:

Paul and Elliot, that’s a lot of work you both accomplished!  Paul, I like your shiny, white workbench! LOL. You look like me, not much room, so I work on whatever is handy!

Mike - Thanks, but I do put in extra long days with this convention coming up. He's supposed to come out for pictures in a couple weeks. I'm at a bit of a loss what we're going to shoot and the place is a mess.

Paul - Don't forget, I usually only work Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays. Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays I have dialysis, so I usually take a nap after dinner and don't make it downstairs. That's why my work days are so long, because I feel the best then.

Mark - Thanks for visiting my YouTube channel!

I'm downstairs right now, just taking a short break from the ballast. Looks like I'll be dragging in a couple more bags for sifting tonight, after dinner and the hockey game.

 

 

Elliot, I am sure you will be right on track and have everything looking nice for the photo shoot!

briansilvermustang posted:

darlander posted:

briansilvermustang posted:

Brian, can you show me some DM&IRR?????

Dave

Way to go Brian, your inventory is amazing!   Love the post!!!!  Thanks, Dave

Ed, That corner of the layout turned out great!  There is a lot of interest to see there!

Brian, I agree with Dave, your inventory is amazing!!  Now that we saw DM&IR with the B&LE ore car, how about some more of B&LE, since I live a mile from the mainline, and can hear the trains from my house.  

I bet all you would have to do is Ask Brian for a picture of any engine you would like to see and I bet he has it! LOL Great pictures Brian!

3rd rail D&RGW L-131 2-8-8-2.

All fixed on derailing on curves.

I placed the L-131 on my 2" thick oak dining table (which I know is flat) and could see the mechanical oiler hitting the bottom of the boiler.

The compound air pumps were also scraping the horizontal steps of the pilot.

There are 4 screws in the 'riding' plate between the front engine and boiler. I loosened the 4 screws and put a shim (gray plastic) on both sides.

This raised the plate and, thus, also raised the boiler.

The oiler is soldered to the valve frame and, I'm guessing, the oiler was soldered a little too high.

My last option was to use my resistance soldering iron and relocate the oiler a little lower on the frame.

Put the engine on the track and it would only operate under conventional mode while using the MTH throttle: forgot to turn on the Lionel TMCC!

Video of engine working around curves:

Will post when youtube is done

That is certainly logical.  Your work around fix makes sense and sounds like the best way to go.  Re soldering the offending parts looks to be harder and messier.

Sam, I sure am glad you got it fixed! I bet it is a pleasure to watch it roll around the track!

Hey Mike what time do you get up out your way. Seems like you post in some very early morning hours. Inquiring minds want to know.........how much longer before you can start the walls of your layout room.............Paul

I'm with you Paul, Mike seems to be quite an early riser.  I want to see that addition go up as well!

Morning Paul. As for what time I get up is all up to our English Bulldog, sometimes its 4am and other times it's 2am. then he sits there for an hour after he goes to the bathroom. If you try to go back to bed he just sits there and cries! LOL lucky me.

As far as the walls, it spose to snow this weekend so I am hopping to get to the lumber store next week sometime. If I can get the walls and roof on I will be happy, then I will go back and side it.

Mark Boyce posted:

I'm with you Paul, Mike seems to be quite an early riser.  I want to see that addition go up as well!

So do I Mark! If I had the lumber already I probably would have had the walls up by now!

mike g. posted:

Mark Boyce posted:

I'm with you Paul, Mike seems to be quite an early riser.  I want to see that addition go up as well!

So do I Mark! If I had the lumber already I probably would have had the walls up by now!

Whats the hold up Mike?   Its been a week! LOL     Ah just work at the pace you choose.   It will be summer soon!   : )

Jim

carsntrains posted:

mike g. posted:

Mark Boyce posted:

I'm with you Paul, Mike seems to be quite an early riser.  I want to see that addition go up as well!

So do I Mark! If I had the lumber already I probably would have had the walls up by now!

Whats the hold up Mike?   Its been a week! LOL     Ah just work at the pace you choose.   It will be summer soon!   : )

Jim

82 here today. All this talk about snow is funny.

Deuce posted:

carsntrains posted:

mike g. posted:

Mark Boyce posted:

I'm with you Paul, Mike seems to be quite an early riser.  I want to see that addition go up as well!

So do I Mark! If I had the lumber already I probably would have had the walls up by now!

Whats the hold up Mike?   Its been a week! LOL     Ah just work at the pace you choose.   It will be summer soon!   : )

Jim

82 here today. All this talk about snow is funny.

Was 70 this morning when I came to work.  Think its in the mid to low 60s now and raining.  BOOOO

Jim

Hey there Jim and Deuce, I am just waiting to get the lumber then I can do the walls, the roof is a different story as I have to cut the overhang off the excisting roof on the garage to get my 3/12 pitch! I would really like to do that when there is no rain in the future! LOL

briansilvermustang posted:

Brian, once again nice picture and I really like the short video!

mike g. posted:

Hey there Jim and Deuce, I am just waiting to get the lumber then I can do the walls, the roof is a different story as I have to cut the overhang off the excisting roof on the garage to get my 3/12 pitch! I would really like to do that when there is no rain in the future! LOL

Could you just get some roof joists made to match the garage roof and just add on to it?? 

Jim

3rd rail D&RGW L-131 video.

Engine's working fine now with the 'plate' support mod.

Not sure why the smoke works only in 'conv' mode and not in 'TMCC'!  On the MTH throttle, hit 'smoke', say 'on' but nada.

Works on the other engines.

Wonder why the TMCC on 3rd rail does not have the wireless draw bar versus the ugly wires?

Oiled all the major friction points.

These articulated really need plus 90, or more, diameter curves to look good: that's a lot of overhang on those curves!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?...amp;feature=youtu.be

carsntrains posted:

mike g. posted:

Hey there Jim and Deuce, I am just waiting to get the lumber then I can do the walls, the roof is a different story as I have to cut the overhang off the excisting roof on the garage to get my 3/12 pitch! I would really like to do that when there is no rain in the future! LOL

Could you just get some roof joists made to match the garage roof and just add on to it?? 

Jim

Jim, I wish I could, but because of the snow load I have to put a 4 X10 beam across then 2 X10's on top of that, cause the wall wont support the addition per building inspector! I was just going to cut back into the roof so the new 2 x 10 would clear, and run it out. but I found out that is a no no!

so now I am stuck with a 91/2' wall on the garage and a 6' wall on the outside. Good thing I am only 5'9". LOL