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Scouting Dad:  Loved the trolley cars.  I am old enough to actually remember riding on such cars in New Jersey.  Not "tourist" type rides but rides when the trolley was a real part of the public transit system.  By the time I was about 5 (1949 or so) they were gone,  replaced by buses...which I also remember because who can forget the wonderful aroma of burnt diesel in the NJ summer!! (no air conditioning then).

Best wishes

Don

@Don McErlean  Part of what has me going with the trolleys and interurbans is I have a vague memory (late 50s) of the Chicago buses (white roofs, green sides) running on the streets but using overhead electric. Every once in a while there would be a big POP and the trolley pole would bang down to the bus roof. But I don't remember the buses stopping because of this. I also grew up across from the old Aurora Elgin line, which used to run interurbans from what I can tell. Its now part of the Illinois Prairie Path.  Bus diesel exhaust back then was awful.  Maybe the future will be back to electric, whether battery or overhead. Rode the "trolleys" in Portland recently, they have a pretty decent system from what I experienced. And getting into Chicago via the Metra line and using the CTA "eL" is way better than driving. 

@Seth Thomas posted:

@Dave Ripp

An enjoyable time when we see your posts.

I’m curious today about your size of vehicles.

Are they 1:43, or how about just sharing with us your size of cars and trucks and if you buy the uniform size each time?  Do you have a favorite vendor?

Appreciate your reply 😊

Seth, Thanks for the compliment. I've always stuck with 1/43rd though I've heard others poopoo that size. I usually go with the cheapest price unless I really want it then I'll pay up.

@ScoutingDad posted:

When I added an extra siding at the back of the layout last year, I did not get the switch and surrounding track as level as it should have been.  Part of this is due to building on layers and not stripping everything down. That was a dreadful thought as the ballast and detailing were already in.

Finally decided to fix the issue, with the thought that a Premier Big Boy should be arriving (someday soon), and it is unlikely it will like the dip.

While I can take the background scenery out (sectional), and pop up from behind, I decided to attack this by climbing onto the layout.  The inch thick foam helps to distribute my bulk on the layout and it keeps the track from digging into my knees. I really wish I had built this section with an open grid. Trying to level this section of track is proving to be a challenge, particularly since it is on a curve and about 6 feet long. The shimming I tried previously did not work all that well. Plus the left side is about a half inch higher than the right side due to the grade needed. If I could I would lay in a 1/2 piece of plywood, but just do not have the clearance.

I don't know about you guys but working on my hands and knees anymore is really tiresome. Makes me wish I was back in my 50s again! Well 30s would be better but that really is wishful thinking.

Reconstruction back_LI

That was a good idea, Jeff, using the foam to pad your knees and the layout as well.  So the pop outs you have the arrows pointed to are only to remove scenery to work on?

Here is what I am trying to do.  I'm showing one section that lifts out sitting on top of the layout, with others in place.  As can be seen, I have a long way to go.

2022-02-19 19.31.15

@RSJB18 Bob, I made a trip Tuesday to pickup a new RailKing SW1500 at C. T. McCormick's.  Being retired does have its privileges!    I have checked it out on the layout, and will post something on it soon.

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@Mark Boyce Mark,  the corners are too deep for me to reach into. So its either climb onto the layout or pop up at each corner. When I remove the scenery there is a clear hole in the corner(s)  where I can shinny up through and stand up to work. I use it to work on track or the nearby signals. The scenery is built like you are doing with layers of foam to get the shape I wanted. I then glue cotton batting over the entire thing and paint with an earth brown latex. $10 for a mixed gallon at Walmart. I am amazed at how much I have used already. I like the texture it leaves and makes it easier to lay down ground cover over the fabric. Sprinkling it on while the paint is wet and it will stick reasonably well. Did most of my layout that way.  Almost instant landscaping. But it takes a while to dry completely.

Since I have 072 curves in the corners, it left quite of bit of space between the track and the wall. Filling it with modular scenic sections, made it easy to work on at the bench and I just place it on the layout. If i do the batting right, the seams are not all that obvious.

I think I understand what you are doing with the lift out sections. Are they going to be buildings, roads or just landscape?  My buildings all have LEDs. I wired in little plugs so if I need to move a building, its easy to separate the plugs, nothing to unscrew. I also have different size/style plugs for the 12v LEDS and the 4.5 v LEDs. That way there is no possibility of messing anything up when putting it back together.   

Thank you, Jeff!  It didn't look that the sceniced areas in the corner was that deep.  However, with an 072 curve, there is lots of room!  I am reading of more folks using the painted over cotton batting.  Yours looks good.

These areas along the 'long' wall grades will be mostly rural, a mountain stream descending with the rear grade.  I do have the large Idaho Hotel to use as a mountain lodge.  On the lower (right) end I may put some home or farm area.  The towns are along each of the adjacent walls to this.  Yes, I will have to use a plug like you for lights to be easily disconnected.  Actually, I should do that on every building, so I can lift any of them off easily.  I'm not 'gluing' buildings down as I had done in the past.

@Mark Boyce posted:

@RSJB18 Bob, I made a trip Tuesday to pickup a new RailKing SW1500 at C. T. McCormick's.  Being retired does have its privileges!    I have checked it out on the layout, and will post something on it soon.

Sounds good Mark, can't wait to see it. I'm assuming it's a Maryland road?
I guess living only 15-20 minutes from Trainland takes some of the urgency out of going to the store. That and still working 8- whenever 5 days a week too . I'm still about 10 years from retirement so I'll deal with it.

Tuesday seems to be the target day at this point. I'll post pix when the deed is done.

@ScoutingDad- after spending most of my early career in construction and other physically active jobs, my knees are already compromised. Now after the past 20 or so behind a desk, spending substantial time on them hurts. I always wear knee pads but they still ache the next day.

Bob

Well there's alot of great work going on.   Just had to stop and go back and read/review the last 2 pages.   

Finally got the third story roof assembled, and painted all the roof slate tiles and weathered copper cap today.  Also kit-bashed the 3rd story short windows, and weathered them as well.  Yesterday, I decided to extend the highway about 16 inches into the tunnel and build finished walls for the highway tunnel.   Got my last 3 road templates done, now just have to do the final cutting of the wide cork roadbed  for the concrete highway crossing the tracks and entering the highway tunnel.   

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Still working on a fix for the buzzing solenoids in my switches. I may have come up with a solution last night. I coated the plunger with a little white grease, just enough to keep the vibration to a minimum. I did a couple in the front of the layout as a test and they are much quieter. I will run them for a while and see how it goes. As long as the sounds from the train aren't drowned out, I'll take the win.

Before and after videos.

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Dave & Jay,  Thanks for the suggestions.  Yes I was contemplating the "mirror" at the back end of the tunnel with some lights every 5 inches or so in the ceiling.  I had not really thought about vehicles with headlights, but that's a pretty cool idea as well.    At least I got back down there late last night and started cutting in the final road sections.   Hope to send the road paving crew home today, as well as install the lighting and windows & doors in the building.



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@chris a posted:

Dave & Jay,  Thanks for the suggestions.  Yes I was contemplating the "mirror" at the back end of the tunnel with some lights every 5 inches or so in the ceiling.  I had not really thought about vehicles with headlights, but that's a pretty cool idea as well.    At least I got back down there late last night and started cutting in the final road sections.   Hope to send the road paving crew home today, as well as install the lighting and windows & doors in the building.



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Menards has some nice lighted cars and trucks Chris. The whole project is looking good.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

Sounds good Mark, can't wait to see it. I'm assuming it's a Maryland road?
I guess living only 15-20 minutes from Trainland takes some of the urgency out of going to the store. That and still working 8- whenever 5 days a week too . I'm still about 10 years from retirement so I'll deal with it.

Tuesday seems to be the target day at this point. I'll post pix when the deed is done.

@ScoutingDad- after spending most of my early career in construction and other physically active jobs, my knees are already compromised. Now after the past 20 or so behind a desk, spending substantial time on them hurts. I always wear knee pads but they still ache the next day.

Bob

Bob, surprise, surprise, surprise!  The NW1500 has nothing to do with Western Maryland.  I did want to include the Mount Storm power station I worked at long ago that the Western Maryland (now CSX) serves.  I had to settle for a backdrop picture of one.  I couldn’t remember what engine Virginia Power owned, so when I saw MTH was offering a NW1500 in Pennsylvania Power and Light modern scheme, I compromised and ordered it.  Over 40 years ago, I also worked for Pennsylvania Electric Co, owned by the same outfit that owns PP&L.

A couple months ago, I came across a photograph of an 44 Ton engine from Mount Storm in the familiar colors.  That is when I bought the WbB 44 Ton thinking I would repaint it.  

Well now the NW1500 came in.  It is rather snazzy.  I have it pulling some empties out of the station, cars that it brought up from the lower yard you suggested I build.  As you know, you have to use your imagination on a small layout.  Here it is.

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@Mark Boyce posted:


Well now the NW1500 came in.  It is rather snazzy.  I have it pulling some empties out of the station that it brought up from the lower yard you suggested I build.  As you know, you have to use your imagination on a small layout.  Here it is.

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Looks great Mark. A little artistic license is permitted in our miniature worlds.

Enjoy the new loco.

Bob

@Mark Boyce posted:


Well now the NW1500 came in.  It is rather snazzy.  I have it pulling some empties out of the station that it brought up from the lower yard you suggested I build.  As you know, you have to use your imagination on a small layout.  Here it is.

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Love the engine, Mark - very interesting paint scheme - wish Lionel would make one as I don’t do DCS. PPL has been my power company since I moved to PA in 1995.

Just an FYI… Lionel made some beautiful die cast PPL hoppers last year

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Put new smoke unit in my #2035. Smokes ok but one thing I like about my American Flyer steam is their smoke and choo choo. My Lionel some smoke well and some so so. I have replaced units with pill type and liquid don't see big difference if using liquid smoke. Haven't used pills so can't evaluate if there is a difference using pills vs liquid.

I did a little at home rail fanning this weekend. Watched some ore movement and a mixed freight hauling some newly assigned rolling stock. I am also in the process of making some coal loads for the recently acquired 3-bay hoppers.    

The coal loads: Are cut and shaped from 1” styrofoam and made to fit inside the hoppers to a depth that would allow some room for a layer of coal. I added some Sculpamold to help provide more profile. Painted the inserts with black acrylic hobby paint.    I made a form that mirrors the inside dimensions of the hoppers and covered the walls with Al foil. The walls are clamped together so that I can release the form after the glued coal layer sets.     

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Hats off to all the layout progress posts!    Always thankful for the sharing!   

Cheers, Dave

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Dave,

Real nice work. Where do you get your coal? Also, please explain the purpose of the aluminum foil? I'm probably overthinking it.

Thanks,

Dave

Brennan's RR products sells bags of real anthracite coal in various sizes.   Tomorrow I'm visiting a friend who is going to give me a cup or two of Brennan coal.   The coal in the picture was a gift from another friend and I do not know its origin.   I was in the Twin Cities last Thursday and checked out a major hobby supplier that did not have any suitable coal in O scale.  I have a bag of post war Lionel coal but will probably not use it.   When I get the Brennan anthracite coal I will make a decision on which product I will use to complete the load.   The purpose of the aluminum foil (wax paper might work better - I will know tomorrow) is to prevent any glue/coal from attaching to the sides of the form.   I plan to use a process similar to gluing ballast to secure the coal to the styrofoam.   I want to be able to remove the load from the hopper as desired.

cheers, Dave  

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@Apples55 posted:

Love the engine, Mark - very interesting paint scheme - wish Lionel would make one as I don’t do DCS. PPL has been my power company since I moved to PA in 1995.

Just an FYI… Lionel made some beautiful die cast PPL hoppers last year

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Paul, Yes, that is an interesting scheme.  Initially, I thought it was just going to be solid one shade of blue.  That is a nice hopper.  I also saw MTH is offering one with Pennsylvania Power & Light written out on the side of the car with Reddy Kilowatt smiling.

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I’ve been trying to finish the scenics as much as possible in the TT area before I add my welders.  So therefore I had to finish the top of the retaining wall. I forgot how hot the Hot Glue gets. Anyhow after a few times of trying to match the paint I mixed 1 year ago, I gave up and settled. Now for some cleanup of the holidays and some flock.

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@TedW- nobody I know but the pace of work looks familiar for NY DOT work.

@darlander- nice work on the coal loads Dave. I just did a wax paper release for some of the scenery around my yard. Worked just fine.

2022-01-29 13.48.002022-01-29 20.54.35

@obxtrainman- Nice TT. I like the overhead power to the bridge too.

I did the rest of the switches I can reach last night. Still some fine tuning to do but I will run the trains for a while and see how it goes.

I also unpacked a nice Atlas refer I bought on the forum recently. I jumped on it when the post came up. I had the SW8 already. Made perfect sense to have a car or two for it to pull. Gotta love the special runs that MTH did.

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Bob

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Darlander,  thanks for the photos and details on the Coal Hopper Loads.   I too have used wax paper successfully, for mold release on scenery projects.  I have even better luck with the heavy duty coated paper they wrap my salmon in at the grocery store, but they don't always have it. 

Well managed to finish the concrete road sections, then had to "bring in the carpenters" to cut timbers for the crossing over the frog of the #6 switch.   Although it got late, I got the first 10 inch strip of warm white LED's cut, mounted and tested in the 3 story section of the warehouse.  DSC00465DSC00466

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20220220_13205320220220_13245220220220_13252020220220_13254220220220_13254920220220_13331720220220_13205320220220_13245220220220_13252020220220_13254220220220_13254920220220_133317I haven't actually done anything on my layout in a couple weeks, but I've built a workbench in the back room so I'm farther away from my wife when soldering or using the dremel because she's asthmatic and the smells bother her. Plus by doing that she now has the living room table back that I've been using for a temporary workarea. We're 20220220_13205320220220_13245220220220_13252020220220_13254220220220_13254920220220_133317in a small one story house with only a crawl space and no accessible attic. My layout takes up the bedroom its in so no space in there to have the workbench in there, but it's only 2 rooms away. I laid a dropcloth down and had a piece of plywood to use when soldering or cutting so not to damage the table. It's still a work in progress, I want to stain and seal the wood in the spring when I can have windows open. I'm going to put down approx 4 ft of Fastrack with bumpers at each end for a test track. I have a spare CW-80 to use for Track and Accessory Power and by use of AC-DC and Adjustable DC Voltage Buck Converters I will have Banana Plug Jacks and Banana Plug to Alligator Clips for doing any testing I need to do for the trains and accessories. I have switched outlets for the CW-Transformer, Dremel, and Weller Soldering Gun plus metal cans to hold the Dremel and Soldering Gun for when they're hot from use. A couple LED Light Fixtures, LED desk lamp, a couple power strips, and everything feeds into a GFIR for safety. Happy wife, happy life!😀

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Last edited by Gary P
@TedW posted:

@RSJB18, I checked my other M.O.W. crew in the tunnel.  These guys are “working” just as hard.  They’re from the LI DOT.  Recognize anybody?

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Really interesting photos.     Looking at them gives me the feeling of being in the tunnel with the crew.     I get a feeling of claustrophobia. 

The close up in low light looks like it would qualify asa great addition to the Imagineering in OG photography thread. 

Nice

@TedW posted:

@Gary P, your photos are not showing up in your postings.  Are you selecting “add attachments” in the lower right corner, then navigate to your photo album, select your photos and then upload?

I did but I'll try it again. Thanks for letting me know. I'm seeing them but we'll see what happens this time when I try editing my post now. I hope you all are seeing them now, I'm seeing 3 of each one now, why, I have no idea! Posting is above my pay grade understanding how servers let some things through sometimes and other times not!

Last edited by Gary P

This is my main yard for the New Haven section of my layout. The goal was to create a platform for the station and do away with the old 20" Bowser turntable which is too short for some of my newer engines along with the roundhouse. Also to ballast the entire yard. Some of the ballast was sifted out our cinder block mix which does have a good color and glues in ok. The other two colors ( black for the yard tracks and grey for the main lines is Brennan's ballast. thumbnail [1)yard work2yard work 1yard work 3

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@Bill Park posted:

This is my main yard for the New Haven section of my layout. The goal was to create a platform for the station and do away with the old 20" Bowser turntable which is too short for some of my newer engines along with the roundhouse. Also to ballast the entire yard. Some of the ballast was sifted out our cinder block mix which does have a good color and glues in ok. The other two colors ( black for the yard tracks and grey for the main lines is Brennan's ballast. yard work2

Great looking ballast Bill.

The first coal load was released from the form this morning after an overnight set.   I am please with the way it turned out and it now has a new home, DM&IR hopper #12108.   

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Live & learn:  I will not use aluminum foil on the remaining loads.   No problem getting it to release, but the foil is quite fragile and easily tears.  Comes away in pieces.    I will use wax paper for the remaining loads.  

Regarding the coal I am using:  Brennan packages real anthracite coal in five sizes. The Brennan coal I got yesterday is #1. Brennan recommends #2 for 1:48 scale general purpose steam era. The bag of Lionel #207 coal is a little too coarse for the look I wanted.    So I’m using my "gifted coal" (zip lock bag and middle pile of unknown origin or size but probably similar to Brennan #2) along with a dash to two of Brennan’s #1. Hey, doing so allows me to claim that I'm hauling real stuff!   It's important to be real even though we're riding 3 rails!!

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Cheers, Dave       

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Last edited by darlander
@darlander posted:

The first coal load was released from the form this morning after an overnight set.   I am please with the way it turned out and it now has a new home, DM&IR hopper #12108.   

IMG_5750

Live & learn:  I will not use aluminum foil on the remaining loads.   No problem getting it to release, but the foil is quite fragile and easily tears.  Comes away in pieces.    I will use wax paper for the remaining loads.  





Cheers, Dave       

Dave- I forgot to mention that the wax paper kind of disappears when it gets wet. Once dry it tears away easily from the form and is basically invisible.

The load looks great.

Bob

@RJ Shier posted:

Gary P I can see the first few pictures of your workbench but the other pics are still not showing. BTW great job on the bench!

You dudes do some spectacular work. I'd like to hire you all to stop by and I bet we could finish my layout in a weekend!

Thank you very much, a lot in a tight space, I posted 6 pictures, I could see them all when I went back to the post, when I got the message they weren't showing so I tried editing and adding the attachments from my files, now from here I see all six of them 3 times. I can't figure it out, definitely above my pay grade🤣

Dave, that coal load turned out really awesome, I really like your method and choice of materials! I did something similar on a pair of Lionel BNSF open hoppers by adding a gravel (WS ballast) load, but I used a different method and materials.

I used Polystyrene Plastic Board Sheet 1/16" thick sheets. I then used fast curing epoxy to put the first layer of gravel on, as white glue does not stick to Polystyrene!  Once the epoxy was dry I added more gravel and then used white glue like I as doing track ballast. It worked okay, but the Polystyrene warped a little bit on the ends. I will use your method of Styrofoam next time. Your coal loads are much snugger in the hopper than mine. Thanks for sharing your coal load project with us. And yes, live and learn!!! OGR is a great place to learn!

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All;

    Below are photos of my girders that I finally have gotten install in a semi permanent way. They may have to come out for landscaping. I will be moving on around the curves in both directions next. I also provided photos of the switchyard down in the valley. The last thing is I have gotten my train running across the hardwood floor. I have cut grooves into the floor and press fitted the rails in the floor so you walk over them without damage.

Thanks;

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All;

    Below are photos of my girders that I finally have gotten install in a semi permanent way. They may have to come out for landscaping. I will be moving on around the curves in both directions next. I also provided photos of the switchyard down in the valley. The last thing is I have gotten my train running across the hardwood floor. I have cut grooves into the floor and press fitted the rails in the floor so you walk over them without damage.

Thanks;

idea-thinkerPXL_20220223_215619970PXL_20220223_215627715PXL_20220223_215643339PXL_20220223_215704838PXL_20220223_220359464PXL_20220223_220409109PXL_20220223_220608299PXL_20220223_220620641

Looks like I might imagine in my dreams. Hope to view more. Thank you.

All;

    Below are photos of my girders that I finally have gotten install in a semi permanent way. They may have to come out for landscaping. I will be moving on around the curves in both directions next. I also provided photos of the switchyard down in the valley. The last thing is I have gotten my train running across the hardwood floor. I have cut grooves into the floor and press fitted the rails in the floor so you walk over them without damage.

Thanks;

PXL_20220223_220608299

I am really intrigued by your space both your horizontal space and vertical space.   You seem to be maximizing the total volume of your room.   Well done and look forward to more progress pictures.   Thanks for sharing!!!

Cheers, Dave

@idea-thinker  wow - so much for a typical flat layout. Very interested on how you plan to tie everything together.

@Mark Boyce  Well when it rains it pours.  Have a bunch of photos to post on the progress on repairing a section of track I laid "poorly".  A little foray into 2 rail made me discover the error of my ways. Good thing I am still new at this, so presumably no bad habits yet?

The series of photos show the back left corner of Twin Pines. Turns out I am raising sections of the track 3/8 ths of an inch to address a dip. Truly shocked at how far off flat I was here. However the section is part of an overhang and is otherwise un-supported, so it may have shifted with time.

First image is the corner piece. Built of pink 1" foam. Kind of like an aircraft wing top and bottom with vertical stringers in the middle and ends. The foam is flexible enough to bend to the needed shape. Surface is covered with cotton batting (think upholstery) glued down, painted dirt brown and covered in places with ground foam. I added pink foam in places to get the "ground movement". Fastest way I have found to get detail onto the layout. The batting adds a lot of strength so it is easily moved around. Or just change out that piece if you want something different.

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This is a pop up corner for me. Once under the table I can stand up for better access. Turns out this was really handy in leveling the track. It was far easier to get shims in (and see what was going on) from inside the corner. Just 4 corner blocks hold up the section since it is very light.

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Here is the section back in place. With a little fiddling I can get the seam closer. Then I usually cover over with low bushes. If I had been thinking at the time, I would have left an inch or so of batting hanging from the edge to lay on top of the other section. That would have left a smaller overlapping seam. The piece to the left is also modular and easily removable.

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I did not realize how much of a pain it is to rework ballasted track. I'll have to re-ballast this section when I am convinced it is suitably flat. There is about a 1.5 % grade here, so not level. So far it looks good.

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Well, tonight was one of those nights where you think you are gonna relax and the trains look at you and say yeah right man. lol. IMG_4703

The photo is from Sunday when I just the track down and there was less chaos. I got some new switches but if anyone has ever worked with 60 year old switches they can be temperamental.  Dealing with that, trying to find track pins that I lost and other stuff made for an interesting night in the train room...Thank God for the weekend...

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@ScoutingDad posted:

@idea-thinker  wow - so much for a typical flat layout. Very interested on how you plan to tie everything together.

@Mark Boyce  Well when it rains it pours.  Have a bunch of photos to post on the progress on repairing a section of track I laid "poorly".  A little foray into 2 rail made me discover the error of my ways. Good thing I am still new at this, so presumably no bad habits yet?

The series of photos show the back left corner of Twin Pines. Turns out I am raising sections of the track 3/8 ths of an inch to address a dip. Truly shocked at how far off flat I was here. However the section is part of an overhang and is otherwise un-supported, so it may have shifted with time.

First image is the corner piece. Built of pink 1" foam. Kind of like an aircraft wing top and bottom with vertical stringers in the middle and ends. The foam is flexible enough to bend to the needed shape. Surface is covered with cotton batting (think upholstery) glued down, painted dirt brown and covered in places with ground foam. I added pink foam in places to get the "ground movement". Fastest way I have found to get detail onto the layout. The batting adds a lot of strength so it is easily moved around. Or just change out that piece if you want something different.

This is a pop up corner for me. Once under the table I can stand up for better access. Turns out this was really handy in leveling the track. It was far easier to get shims in (and see what was going on) from inside the corner. Just 4 corner blocks hold up the section since it is very light.

Here is the section back in place. With a little fiddling I can get the seam closer. Then I usually cover over with low bushes. If I had been thinking at the time, I would have left an inch or so of batting hanging from the edge to lay on top of the other section. That would have left a smaller overlapping seam. The piece to the left is also modular and easily removable.

I did not realize how much of a pain it is to rework ballasted track. I'll have to re-ballast this section when I am convinced it is suitably flat. There is about a 1.5 % grade here, so not level. So far it looks good.

Jeff, the lift outs certainly made it possible to do the revision to the track/roadbed in relative ease.  I can see what you mean that if you had made the batting overhang a bit, it may have been even easier to conceal the seams. 

Idea-thinker, I did not realize how low your layout is, much on the floor.  I can see why you did it that way with the low ceiling.  Excellent job!

@idea-thinker- very neat train room. Can you post a close up of the rails embedded in the floor? Looks like the track is passing a door opening? That's a neat idea, but I don't know if I could convince the CEO to let me take a router to an oak floor though.

@ScoutingDad- Jeff- glad you got your track aligned. It can be a PITA to go back and fix stuff. The removable scenery looks good. I may try cotton batting one day. I've seen several guys use it and it is a cheap alternative to rigid foam and plaster cloth. Less of a mess than carving foam too.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

@idea-thinker- very neat train room. Can you post a close up of the rails embedded in the floor? Looks like the track is passing a door opening? That's a neat idea, but I don't know if I could convince the CEO to let me take a router to an oak floor though.

@ScoutingDad- Jeff- glad you got your track aligned. It can be a PITA to go back and fix stuff. The removable scenery looks good. I may try cotton batting one day. I've seen several guys use it and it is a cheap alternative to rigid foam and plaster cloth. Less of a mess than carving foam too.

Bob

Bob;

      I have attached a close up of the track through the Hardwood floor. It was quite a challenge to get that in place and operational. It actually works well. The rails are just above the top of the floor and the outer rails have a shallow inside cut to allow for the flanges on the wheels. We are able to walk on it without damage.

IMG_20200128_115150IMG_20200128_115228



Thanks;

idea-thinker

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Bob;

      I have attached a close up of the track through the Hardwood floor. It was quite a challenge to get that in place and operational. It actually works well. The rails are just above the top of the floor and the outer rails have a shallow inside cut to allow for the flanges on the wheels. We are able to walk on it without damage.

IMG_20200128_115228



Thanks;

idea-thinker

Very creative thinking. Guess I know how your screen name originated.......

Thanks

@Mark Boyce posted:

Jeff, the lift outs certainly made it possible to do the revision to the track/roadbed in relative ease.  I can see what you mean that if you had made the batting overhang a bit, it may have been even easier to conceal the seams.

Idea-thinker, I did not realize how low your layout is, much on the floor.  I can see why you did it that way with the low ceiling.  Excellent job!

Mark;

         While my Layout in some areas is low to the floor the room it is in has 10 ft. high ceilings. The room size is 40x50 feet. Around the perimeter there are knee walls that limit the height somewhat. The trains going to fill the room expect for the walk ways.



Thanks;

idea-thinker

Scott, I'm making a coal load for a friend for his MTH hopper like you have.   I discovered that the 3 interior cross braces are easily removed so you can use thicker styrofoam for the load.    Just flex the sides out a bit as there is a small pin on each side near the top that holds it in place.    Had to make a new glue form as these cars are a bit longer then the 3-bay Weaver hoppers.   I will finish his load today.   The cross braces can be stored under the load.  

IMG_1021IMG_5763

Cheers, Dave

PS:  Both coal loads are placed and the wax paper worked much better than the aluminum foil!

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Last edited by darlander
@darlander posted:

Scott, I'm making a coal load for a friend for his MTH hopper like you have.   I discovered that the 3 interior cross braces are easily removed so you can use thicker styrofoam for the load.    Just flex the sides out a bit as there is a small pin on each side near the top that holds it in place.    Had to make a new glue form as these cars are a bit longer then the 3-bay Weaver hoppers.   I will finish his load today.   The cross braces can be stored under the load.  

IMG_1021IMG_5763

Cheers, Dave

PS:  Both coal loads are placed and the wax paper worked much better than the aluminum foil!

IMG_5756

Dave, oh that's funny, we have the same BNSF hopper set, very cool! I take that back, my hoppers are Lionel and slightly different than the MTH hoppers. Now that I have seen there way you did it, I'm gonna redo my hoppers using the Styrofoam. Thanks for letting me know about the cross braces as I was wondering if they were snapped in or glued in. I think I'll make a trip over to my local packaging company, I can usually weasel some scrap Styrofoam out of them. LoL

Last edited by WesternPacific2217

Dave, oh that's funny, we have the same BNSF hopper set, very cool! I take that back, my hoppers are Lionel and slightly different than the MTH hoppers. Now that I have seen there way you did it, I'm gonna redo my hoppers using the Styrofoam. Thanks for letting me know about the cross braces as I was wondering if they were snapped in or glued in. I think I'll make a trip over to my local packaging company, I can usually weasel some scrap Styrofoam out of them. LoL

Scott, the MTH hopper with new coal load:

IMG_1050

Have fun with your redo!

Cheers, Dave

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Last edited by darlander
@TedW posted:

@RSJB18, I checked my other M.O.W. crew in the tunnel.  These guys are “working” just as hard.  They’re from the LI DOT.  Recognize anybody?

Ted, your crew looks great!  One of those Longisland guys looks like a now deceased PennDOT 'employee' I once knew.  I couldn't call him a 'worker'.  His name was Harvey.  He always smelled of way too much Iron City Beer, and I don't think he was ever completely sober.  Dad said he always looked like he was walking on eggs.  My brother referred to him as Harvey Wallbanger. 

Farmer John, it looks absolutely great!

Scott, you are making some great looking company houses.

Never liked the way an area on the layout looked, the area just in front of the plateau and behind an elevated cross track known as T-bone crossing. Why? It is a dangerous place if you are not careful - the mainline crosses the upper level here.

Over 20 years, part of the plateau under the rails sunk about 1/4 inch resulting in me having to shim about 10 inches of track. This also needed a more permanent fix.

I expanded the plateau and tunnel underneath it about a square foot - the crossing is no longer "floating" now and the tracks are a lot more stable (stabler?).

Before and after pics:

Before:

IMG_7255

After:

IMG_7258

Before:

IMG_7253

After:

IMG_7261

Oh yeah, the dip! I repaired that by pouring a loose plaster mix in it., it was in the area under the track and between the light green, brownish/orange and red bushes to the right of the cross track in the above pic, level and strong now.

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Last edited by Lionelski

Hello everyone! It has been awhile since I last posted anything about the layout besides product reviews. Things have been in a bit of limbo state as I was either in a busy state of work or in poor health. Thankfully, for the past few nights I have been able to get down to the train room and make some progress!

I am currently working on the mountain section of the layout. In the first photo I had originally planned to turn this area into a valley with a river but instead it is going to be a forested area with a shack in front of the unfinished white rock face. Next, I proceeded to work on the mountain it self by creating a new tunnel portal and start the massive cardboard truss work. I plan on making the mountain be false in the back, hidden from view, so that I do not have to deal with the pain of trying to produce unseen scenery. Work will probably not continue until after Sunday as I will be busy with family celebrating my birthday tomorrow. Thanks for reading, and happy railroading!

BAEEA269-BC67-4F49-A72B-25D42B90F45989A9DE31-8A94-4476-BCCD-F4A2C55F90F35EFD37D1-1E34-46DF-B097-AE35C8C532E1

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@Mark Boyce posted:

With all the new methods and materials, it is good to see old methods and materials still can give great results.  I remember reading about the cardboard mesh back in the late 1960s and using it myself.  I'm glad you could get back at it!

Thanks Mark! I cannot remember how I found out about it but I am glad I did! It has been a very easy process of building it up.

Hello everyone! It has been awhile since I last posted anything about the layout besides product reviews. Things have been in a bit of limbo state as I was either in a busy state of work or in poor health. Thankfully, for the past few nights I have been able to get down to the train room and make some progress!

Work will probably not continue until after Sunday as I will be busy with family celebrating my birthday tomorrow. Thanks for reading, and happy railroading!

5EFD37D1-1E34-46DF-B097-AE35C8C532E1

Happy Birthday sir!

The tunnel is going to be nice.

Bob

Thanks for all the comments on the oil refinery everyone. It is more fun to me when others enjoy it also.

Jeff the gooseneck  lights in the refinery  I make myself. I use a 12 volt white diffused led. I stamp out a shade of thin metal heatsrink metal tubing and a wooden thimble to stand it in. These are cheap to make and at a little distance they look ok to me. Thanks Farmerjohn. 20220227_10484120220227_10491020220227_10502320220227_10524020220227_10534320220227_110035

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