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@RSJB18 posted:

Looks like foam pipe insulation to me.

Everbilt 1 in. x 6 ft. Foam Pipe Insulation ORP11812 - The Home Depot

Yep, that's exactly what I used -- fairly cheap in the 3 to 4 foot length multi-packs at any hardware store, and recently I've seen it in longer lengths (6-8 feet or so?), which can reduce the number of seams needed. It easily opens up to grip the edge of the layout firmly, and can be removed and reinstalled as often as needed. The only problem is that, as you might expect, it prefers to go straight, but if you have at least a foot or two on either side of a sharp curve, it will usually hold well enough on its own. In a pinch, though, a strategically placed staple or two will keep it in place, though that makes it a bit more work to remove and reinstall.

I've successfully used it over plain half-inch plywood or, as shown in the pics, over half inch foam on top of half inch OSB -- the combined inch thickness is (literally!) a bit of a stretch, but still does well, protecting young visitors from enthusiastic encounters with the edges of your layout, while concealing the raw edges of your carpentry work and looking almost purpose-made for the use. My only other suggestion would be to buy all your anticipated needs at one go -- there are small but somewhat noticeable color variations from batch to batch.


Your layout is GREAT. I love your scenery work. What material do you use for the platform border? I really like it. Is it easy to work and bend?

Thanks for the kind words, Randy! I believe I covered the answers to your questions in another post, but let me know if you have any other questions.

I've been playing with toy trains episodically for about seventy years or so, but among the unanticipated joys this time around has been the chance to do a deep dive into all aspects of landscaping, and finding not only the vast wealth of instruction and inspiration available on-line, but that even with limited efforts I could get pretty decent results! I'm still a journeyman at best, and don't get a lot of opportunities to 'drill' repeatedly on new skills, so this project was fun in part because I got a chance to reuse newly-learned skills, and use up some of the leftover materials in the process!

Evening guys I hope your all having a nice week! Nothing new from me as I am still working on a Retirement Party. I am just here checking up on all the great projects so I can throw so support to you all!

@Steve Tyler Steve what wonderful landscaping and I am so glad you took the time to explain how you went about building that scene and what materials you used! Thanks again and it looks wonderful!

@Genemed Gene, nice job on the shelves they look great! I also wanted to comment on how neat and clean your train room looks! Almost like an OR Room! LOL

@SIRT WOW That is some amazing work! Your skills are outstanding as you can't even tell the old from the new, and if one hasn't fallowed along they would never know!

I hope you all have a great Friday and weekend! Most of all I hope you all find time to have fun with your layout and trains!

This may not be a pure layout post, but the engine will run on my layout when finished. Besides, this is one of my favorite OGR threads.

I bought a used Lionel Santa Fe F3 ABA set from 2005 catalog about 3 years ago. It was delivered DOA, so I stashed it away with the thought I'd repair it one day. When I started to troubleshoot it I found the 5 volt rectifier for the smoke unit was miss wired to the plus side of the motor wires!!! It fried the DCDS, which is custom for this model and the 2004 F3 model. No wonder is was DOA!

Being a 2005 model Lionel replacement parts are a problem. I decided to replace all the Lionel stuff with ERR Commander, ERR F3/F7 RS board and then get creative for the lights. Also, I never use smoke so I'm going to omit the smoke unit.

Here's some photos of the beginning of the project, updates will follow if anybody is interested.

The original mess!

I had to drill a couple of holes to mount the ERR Commander and RS. Here's a photo of the PCA's installed. I had to remove the rear motor assembly to access one of the holes for the RS PCA.

I always wondered why the powered A unit weighed so much, I found this black hot poured metal ballast, on the left in the photo, in the fuel tank. It has to weigh at least a 1 lbs!

The adventure continues, waiting for LED's to arrive for the lighting.

Update: I installed the ERR Cruise Commander and RailSounds board, and wired everything up. Put it on the track, programmed it, switched it to run, and the front motor is DEAD. I clipped the wires and tested it with my variable DC power supply, and still DEAD. I sent the motor and truck off for repair this morning. In the meantime I will work on the lights and have those ready when the new truck with new motor arrives. I did try to get a motor from Lionel, but no more are available for this 2005 model. As I stated before, I'm not a smoke fan, so there's no smoke unit.

Happy Railroading!

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Update: I installed the ERR Cruise Commander and RailSounds board, and wired everything up. Put it on the track, programmed it, switched it to run, and the front motor is DEAD. I clipped the wires and tested it with my variable DC power supply, and still DEAD. I sent the motor and truck off for repair this morning. In the meantime I will work on the lights and have those ready when the new truck with new motor arrives. I did try to get a motor from Lionel, but no more are available for this 2005 model. As I stated before, I'm not a smoke fan, so there's no smoke unit.

Happy Railroading!

Scott sorry to hear of the dead motor. I have to ask, and I know some people are going to think this guys must have just crawled out from under a rock. But how do you know what wire from the board goes where? Does it come with a diagram or is it just from years of doing it?

Good evening everyone!

Got to work on the layout this afternoon by adding a crane to the freight platform at the mine. Since I had left over beams from the platform I decided to use them. I first started by making a base platform for the crane to be secured on. It is just a simple square frame with a floor. Next, I turned my attention to the crane structure. I planned on it to be a static structure so no complicated design needed. I built it to have a single upright beam supporting two extended beams. I cut notches out of the support and extended beams to make everything flush and allow the chain to be secured. To finish it off, I added some jewelry chain, fashioned a hook out of a twist tie, and gave everything a black paint job.
857577AB-B5B3-4F29-9473-0155BAFC5EBB162910BE-9A0C-4E7A-B695-8F0492124C4B
I secured the crane onto the platform and I think it looks great. However, a true crane is not complete unless it has a load to accompany it. So…

89375E3F-EAAC-4876-BE01-2496BC80AD7E

Much better! I took the left over beams and fashioned them into two large and one small stacks. I “wrapped” them in chain and placed them on the platform. They are now ready to be taken down into the mine!

This turned into a nice little afternoon project and I am glad I did it. Thanks for reading and good night!

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Good evening everyone!

Got to work on the layout this afternoon by adding a crane to the freight platform at the mine. Since I had left over beams from the platform I decided to use them. I first started by making a base platform for the crane to be secured on. It is just a simple square frame with a floor. Next, I turned my attention to the crane structure. I planned on it to be a static structure so no complicated design needed. I built it to have a single upright beam supporting two extended beams. I cut notches out of the support and extended beams to make everything flush and allow the chain to be secured. To finish it off, I added some jewelry chain, fashioned a hook out of a twist tie, and gave everything a black paint job.
857577AB-B5B3-4F29-9473-0155BAFC5EBB162910BE-9A0C-4E7A-B695-8F0492124C4B
I secured the crane onto the platform and I think it looks great. However, a true crane is not complete unless it has a load to accompany it. So…

89375E3F-EAAC-4876-BE01-2496BC80AD7E

Much better! I took the left over beams and fashioned them into two large and one small stacks. I “wrapped” them in chain and placed them on the platform. They are now ready to be taken down into the mine!

This turned into a nice little afternoon project and I am glad I did it. Thanks for reading and good night!

Trainmaster, great idea and looks awesome. Go back to the early 20th century and it could be prototypical. Mines and logging used the resources they had locally and nothing fancy. 👍

@mike g. posted:

Scott sorry to hear of the dead motor. I have to ask, and I know some people are going to think this guys must have just crawled out from under a rock. But how do you know what wire from the board goes where? Does it come with a diagram or is it just from years of doing it?

Hi Mike, no you haven't been hiding under a rock, it's a legitimate question. gunrunnerjohn would probably be better at explaining then me, but I'll give it a try. As you probably already know DC motors in our model trains run in either direction depending on which side of the input is positive voltage (polarity).

There are two connectors on the ERR Cruise Commander that are directional and  variable voltage outputs for the motor or motors (determines how fast and which direction the model goes). When the ERR is installed you may not always know what the polarity is for forwards and reverse (polarity on the motors). It's not a big deal it's a 50/50 chance. Forward is default when you start the engine, so it if goes in reverse then you just switch the motor wires on the ERR.

If you replace a motor it is possible to get the polarity wrong and that's a problem with two motors. You could have a motor running in reverse and the other one running in forward! Just flip the wires on one of the motors and off you go. Hope this helps.

Got to work on the layout this afternoon by adding a crane to the freight platform at the mine. Since I had left over beams from the platform I decided to use them. I first started by making a base platform for the crane to be secured on. It is just a simple square frame with a floor. Next, I turned my attention to the crane structure. I planned on it to be a static structure so no complicated design needed. I built it to have a single upright beam supporting two extended beams. I cut notches out of the support and extended beams to make everything flush and allow the chain to be secured. To finish it off, I added some jewelry chain, fashioned a hook out of a twist tie, and gave everything a black paint job.


I secured the crane onto the platform and I think it looks great. However, a true crane is not complete unless it has a load to accompany it. So…

Much better! I took the left over beams and fashioned them into two large and one small stacks. I “wrapped” them in chain and placed them on the platform. They are now ready to be taken down into the mine!

This turned into a nice little afternoon project and I am glad I did it. Thanks for reading and good night!

Nice work, Trainmaster! Sometimes the most fun projects are the ones that just sort of organically grow out of our scrap and leftover piles!

Update: I installed the ERR Cruise Commander and RailSounds board, and wired everything up. Put it on the track, programmed it, switched it to run, and the front motor is DEAD. I clipped the wires and tested it with my variable DC power supply, and still DEAD. I sent the motor and truck off for repair this morning. In the meantime I will work on the lights and have those ready when the new truck with new motor arrives. I did try to get a motor from Lionel, but no more are available for this 2005 model. As I stated before, I'm not a smoke fan, so there's no smoke unit.

Happy Railroading!

Scott,

Just curious; was the motor working before the electronics came in to play? Did they damage the motor? I did an ERR install several years ago. It ran good. I haven’t used it in awhile. When I attempted to run it last week it shorted out. I didn’t have time to check it out. It’s on my list.

Morning guys I hope you all have a wonderful weekend planned! I will be spending it with my wife for the first time in over a year as she has always worked weekends, but with today her last day of working I see more together!

@Trainmaster04 The crane looks perfect on your loading dock! It sure is nice to be able to use extra stuff from other projects!

@WesternPacific2217 Scott thanks for the response! I remember when I first joined this forum I asked a question and one person made fun of me cause I didn't know. Things sure have changed over the years, that is why I love this community so much!

@SIRT The fence install sure looks great! Is that scratch built?

Well guys I think the only thing that will be done one the layout for me today is to temporarily put some people on the layout for folks that want to see the layout tomorrow during my wife's retirement party see people not just cars and trains! LOL

I hope you all have a great weekend and find time to have fun with your layouts and trains!

@romiller49 posted:

Scott, the motor is most likely the standard for Lionel diesels. Try looking up a motor from a different engine. Sometimes a motor may show no stock for a particular engine but is available under a different engine. This has worked for me at times. It’s worth a try.

Hi Rod, I did think of that, but the motor isn’t the issue as much as the worm gear. The are many variations with the gear. So I sent my dead motor to a guy that will remove the flywheel and worm and install on a new motor. Thanks for the input, I appreciate it!

@pennsyfan posted:

Scott,

Just curious; was the motor working before the electronics came in to play? Did they damage the motor? I did an ERR install several years ago. It ran good. I haven’t used it in awhile. When I attempted to run it last week it shorted out. I didn’t have time to check it out. It’s on my list.

Hi Bob, when I received this F7 3 years ago it was DOA. It had been worked on before I got it and the 5 volt regulator was miss wired to one of the motor wires!!! That killed the DCDS and those are no longer available for this model. Anyway, after I installed the ERR is when I discovered the dead motor. The locomotive looked like it had some miles on it, and it is 18 years old!

@romiller49 posted:

Scott, the motor is most likely the standard for Lionel diesels. Try looking up a motor from a different engine. Sometimes a motor may show no stock for a particular engine but is available under a different engine. This has worked for me at times. It’s worth a try.

Scott,

I just ordered these items for a 2005 gp9 from the Alaska Yukon set.
The motor in truck and motor separately was available.

PILOT / MOLDED PLASTIC / BLACK1PILOT / MOLDED PLASTIC / BLACK$6.50$6.50
COLLECTOR / ROLLER / STARTER SET - 60082091652COLLECTOR / ROLLER / STARTER SET$1.95$3.90
4-WHL MTR TRK / W/MTR / W/SNSR / STARTER DIESEL - 620884310614-WHL MTR TRK / W/MTR / W/SNSR / STARTER DIESEL$32.00$32.00
COUPLER / MAGNETIC / PLASTIC / LOW-END DIESEL2COUPLER / MAGNETIC / PLASTIC / LOW-END DIESEL$5.20$10.40
COUPLER PLUNGER / PLASTIC W/ THUMBTACK - 6109050057 / 68027310572COUPLER PLUNGER / PLASTIC W/ THUMBTACK$1.85$3.70
CLUSTER GEAR / MOLDED / CELCON / STARTER TRUCK2CLUSTER GEAR / MOLDED / CELCON / STARTER TRUCK$1.50$3.00
@trestleking posted:

On my layout today...I stopped deconstructing it !   Turns out our home's new buyer wanted it all left as -is , including the holes in the wall,  since he models N-Gauge and will reuse my partial creations !    A silver lining to the end of my layout in this house....  On to the next basement !

Rich in SD awhile longer   

Now *there's* a silver lining indeed if I ever saw one!

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Morning guys and gals I hope your all having a  wonderful Tuesday! From what I hear it is going to get cold and wet next weekend on the east side!

@farmerjohn John great looking backdrop buildings, Did you scratch build them or is it a kit?

@RIRocket, wonderful service area! I like how you are trying some oil spill areas, also that is quite the water tower!

@trestleking Rich what a great surprise! I sure hope he didn't mind that you took the track! Just wondering where are you off too?

As for me guys not much, spent the last couple day with the CEO celebrating her Retirment. Actually that was Saturday, I spent Sunday in my own little home recovery! LOL

I did get out yesterday, but it wasn't on the layout but for the layout. Below is a couple of my Redneck ballast washing and drying station. I had to was it cause it was all my old used ballast and I had to get the glue, grass, dirt and anything else that was stuck to it so I could reuse it!

First up washing!

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Next up the drying station!

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I thought about using the microwave, but thought I better not as some of the ballast sticks to a magnet! I don't think it would be good for the Microwave.

I hope you all have a great day and find time to have fun with your layouts and trains!

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@Steve Tyler posted:

Magnetic ballast??! What, are you creating your own Redneck Magne-traction system??

LOL Thanks Steve, but no, it is funny thought when I would clean up after taking track up, I would use a strong magnet and run it over the area to find any nails I used to hold down the track. A lot of time the ballast would stick to the magnet. I will have to go out and see if I can get a photo of it for you all! LOL

Hi guys, I decided to stay in the house today and stay nice and warm! So needless to say nothing new from me today!

@Sams Trains Sam looks good and I don't think the glue will cause any problems as it doesn't bother the joints and joint pins.

@Obsidian looking great! I cant wait to see it from the outside also!

I hope you all have a great night and find time to have fun with your layouts and trains!

@Sams Trains posted:

Wired up my first uncoupling track section. The ballast should cover the wires, so you’ll never know they’re there. My only concern is the glue possibly messing with the connections, but I think it should be okay

Put some tape over the connections then ballast away. Then, later, if you ever have to work on them, just lift the tape and everything will be clean and easy to access.

Afternoon guys I was able to get out to the garage today to finish cooking my ballast! LOL so here is what I ended up with when everything was dried and packaged for storage till I am ready.

36.0 Lbs of gray ballast for the main line and sidings!

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And 7.5 Lbs of nice clean black ballast! LOL

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I have to tell you all this was so much fun! I can't wait to have the fun putting it down! LOL

I think for the rest of the day I might just run trains depending as long as the CEO has nothing new for me! LOL

I hope you all have a great day and find time to have fun with your layouts and trains!

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@Sams Trains posted:

Wired up my first uncoupling track section. The ballast should cover the wires, so you’ll never know they’re there. My only concern is the glue possibly messing with the connections, but I think it should be okay

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Looking good Sam! Is that a lionel Super O uncoupled? The reason that I ask is that I fitted Lionel Super O uncouplers into my Gargraves tracks. All was well until I added some acquisitions to my layout. I found out that the button sits to high for engines and trolleys with low pilots. In particular my Williams scale 44 tonner, and a Williams Peter Witt trolley. There are a few other scale engines that escape me right now. Intermittently my newly acquired Weaver Hiawatha passenger cars.

@Sams Trains, nice track work and the Atlas O uncouplers look right at home. They do resemble the super O uncouplers made years ago by Lionel but do not have the copper look. I’ve got mine ready to be wired by Lionel ASC’s so that I can use my cab 1L’s and Cab 2’s to operate them. You are making good progress on your layout.
I do not have many pictures but working on the turntable area. Happy Railroading Everyone 95CF0A32-F748-4B65-8AFF-AA5901A2F90E0C8A4F74-3970-42EC-B711-E6ED2AA37A6CB9A830F7-54E5-438B-B131-C84C1CD1BAD05C6FD50F-07E3-48B2-9CFF-27E23AFB01DC1FFD1846-A196-493A-B3D7-4333D514617CD7164FF2-183F-448B-A64F-8B770BDA3813

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I'm in the process of wiring my DZ1000 switch machines on my Ross switches. I decided to place the DZ1002 controllers near their corresponding switches. Rather than mount each controller separately, I am installing them in electronics project boxes with either two or three controllers per box. I'm going to recess the boxes on the surface of the layout.  Here is a picture of one of the boxes with two of the three switches installed.             IMG_2483 

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@spudder posted:

I'm in the process of wiring my DZ1000 switch machines on my Ross switches. I decided to place the DZ1002 controllers near their corresponding switches. Rather than mount each controller separately, I am installing them in electronics project boxes with either two or three controllers per box. I'm going to recess the boxes on the surface of the layout.  Here is a picture of one of the boxes with two of the three switches installed.             IMG_2483

Nice work!

Somewhat similarly, in the pursuit of realism I've of late taken to sinking the bases of some of the vintage (and more current) accessories into the half-inch foam board on top of my layout, and have been very pleased so far with the resulting improvement. I'm still working on the best way to landscape up to/over the top of the accessory bases, but IMHO already it's a significant improvement over the "toy train" appearance of a lot of the vintage gear I favor. What I'm shooting for is kinda like a scale depiction of what prototype operations and equipment might have looked like if they'd been based on blueprints from the vaults of Marx, Lionel, AF, etc.! Here's an example (sorry for the poor photo quality -- it's just a crop from a larger pic, showing the base of a Lionel semaphore signal I recessed into the layout, with a cardstock and styrofoam surround and cover to protect the electrical connections from the fine ballast fill) :

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@Steve Tyler

Steve, while I haven’t addressed signals, etc; the Lionel play ground accessories really need help. If just placed on the layout; the kids would have to climb up a 2’ embankment to get on the playground. I cut a hole in the table rather than build up the established surroundings. Here are my before and after pictures.

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I recently added a golf accessory which I also submerged.

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Awesome thread, lots of great stuff going on in here. There's always great ideas to take away.

Here's my little project this morning, pretty simple. My little Lionel Santa Fe Chief observation car tail light was just a red plastic lens with no illumination. I've been meaning to install an LED, just now getting to it.

The lens already went all the way through to the interior of the car, so no drilling required! I've pretty much stopped using hot glue (messy) and resorted to Gorilla Tape to secure wires.

Here's some photos. The LED is connected directly to track power, so a rectifier and resistor are used. LED's on 60 hertz drive me crazy with the flicker. Actually, I cheated here and used a 1/8" warm Evan Designs LED. Here's some photos.

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Awesome thread, lots of great stuff going on in here. There's always great ideas to take away.

Here's my little project this morning, pretty simple. My little Lionel Santa Fe Chief observation car tail light was just a red plastic lens with no illumination. I've been meaning to install an LED, just now getting to it.

The lens already went all the way through to the interior of the car, so no drilling required! I've pretty much stopped using hot glue (messy) and resorted to Gorilla Tape to secure wires.

Here's some photos. The LED is connected directly to track power, so a rectifier and resistor are used. LED's on 60 hertz drive me crazy with the flicker. Actually, I cheated here and used a 1/8" warm Evan Designs LED. Here's some photos.

Nice work, WP! I agree, sometimes it's the little projects that scratch an itch that's been bugging you for a while that are quite satisfying!

Using pre-wired track voltage LEDs certainly saves time -- I bought a bunch of them a while back, and have used them on a lot of projects with great success. The only down side so far is that they seem to have a higher fail rate than I would have expected -- I have at least two on my layout awaiting my attention and replacement. AFAIK, I'm not feeding them excessive voltage or otherwise abusing them -- has anyone else had this type of problem, and if so, any solutions to consider? Obviously, throwing more resistance in series would most likely help (at the cost of dimming the LED), but that sort of defeats the purpose of paying for pre-wired LEDs, no?

@pennsyfan posted:

@Steve Tyler

Steve, while I haven’t addressed signals, etc; the Lionel play ground accessories really need help. If just placed on the layout; the kids would have to climb up a 2’ embankment to get on the playground. I cut a hole in the table rather than build up the established surroundings. Here are my before and after pictures.

I recently added a golf accessory which I also submerged.

I agree -- recessing the base makes it look more like part of the scenery and less like part of a display case!

I'm still not sure the best way to finish such an installation, though. Using fine ballast or equivalent and watered white glue, etc. around the perimeter can certainly complete the integration, but I worry about having to remove the accessory later, for relocation or repair/adjustment. Some of the installations done so far I've just left loose, but the ballast tends to creep under the accessory and leave gaps at the surface, so there's a definite downside to *not* properly securing the landscaping. For now, I'll just continue to improvise on a case-by-case basis, learning (and hopefully improving!) as I go . . .

@Steve Tyler posted:

I agree -- recessing the base makes it look more like part of the scenery and less like part of a display case!

I'm still not sure the best way to finish such an installation, though. Using fine ballast or equivalent and watered white glue, etc. around the perimeter can certainly complete the integration, but I worry about having to remove the accessory later, for relocation or repair/adjustment. Some of the installations done so far I've just left loose, but the ballast tends to creep under the accessory and leave gaps at the surface, so there's a definite downside to *not* properly securing the landscaping. For now, I'll just continue to improvise on a case-by-case basis, learning (and hopefully improving!) as I go . . .

I finish/smooth the edges with 1” painters tape and then diluted white glue, ballast and grass. If I ever have to remove it a razor knife will create a neat separation.

Hi guys I was going to comment on everyone and their wonderful projects. But at this point there is so many I would have to write a small book and people who are just checking in wouldn't have any idea of what I was talking about. But I have to say everything would really impress anyone who seen all these wonderful projects!

Nothing from me today and the CEO and I had to do some running around today!

Tomorrow is Friday so I hope everyone has a great weekend and finds time for fun with their layouts and trains!

@Steve Tyler posted:

Nice work, WP! I agree, sometimes it's the little projects that scratch an itch that's been bugging you for a while that are quite satisfying!

Using pre-wired track voltage LEDs certainly saves time -- I bought a bunch of them a while back, and have used them on a lot of projects with great success. The only down side so far is that they seem to have a higher fail rate than I would have expected -- I have at least two on my layout awaiting my attention and replacement. AFAIK, I'm not feeding them excessive voltage or otherwise abusing them -- has anyone else had this type of problem, and if so, any solutions to consider? Obviously, throwing more resistance in series would most likely help (at the cost of dimming the LED), but that sort of defeats the purpose of paying for pre-wired LEDs, no?

Hi Steve, thanks for the comments! As far as your concern for Evan Designs track voltage LED Failures I don't have all that many, and I have had no failures at this point. I'll be using more, as I'm terrible at assembling small components, wiring, and soldering, and I willing to pay for stuff already assembled to avoid it.

My following post I just finished, and it's pretty sloppy, but it works and looks fine on the tracks.

If I notice premature track voltage LED failures I'll let ya know.

Inspired after installing the tail light on the Chief observation car, I decided to install the lights in the Chief baggage car. The baggage car had no lights or power pickup rollers, so had to order and install the pickup rollers and copper wheel grounds.

I used 12 volt LED strip and GRJ's variable LED power supplies. Excuse my sloppy wiring, it's not my one of my strengths!!! Fortunately, unless you look closely through the very small windows the wiring can't be seen.

Original trucks.

Original trucks with pickup and ground. LED light strip with GRJ's LED PS.

These cars are all plastic and hot glue can cause issues, so I'm "sticking" to Gorilla Tape. It ain't pretty, but it works.

It used to be just a dark interior, now it's alive with light. Since the doors don't open I'm not planning to do anything to the interior.

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This thread does move quickly. I just checked this morning (Sam's uncoupler),and you would think I've been away for days.

Scott, you've inspired me to do the same when I get to the baggage car in my B&O set. I've sourced the pick up rollers. Just need the wipers for the wheel axles. The trucks have the mounting holes already so it should be a simple install.

Now I need to find some time.......

Bob

@pennsyfan posted:

Scott,

I just ordered these items for a 2005 gp9 from the Alaska Yukon set.
The motor in truck and motor separately was available.

PILOT / MOLDED PLASTIC / BLACK1PILOT / MOLDED PLASTIC / BLACK$6.50$6.50
COLLECTOR / ROLLER / STARTER SET - 60082091652COLLECTOR / ROLLER / STARTER SET$1.95$3.90
4-WHL MTR TRK / W/MTR / W/SNSR / STARTER DIESEL - 620884310614-WHL MTR TRK / W/MTR / W/SNSR / STARTER DIESEL$32.00$32.00
COUPLER / MAGNETIC / PLASTIC / LOW-END DIESEL2COUPLER / MAGNETIC / PLASTIC / LOW-END DIESEL$5.20$10.40
COUPLER PLUNGER / PLASTIC W/ THUMBTACK - 6109050057 / 68027310572COUPLER PLUNGER / PLASTIC W/ THUMBTACK$1.85$3.70
CLUSTER GEAR / MOLDED / CELCON / STARTER TRUCK2CLUSTER GEAR / MOLDED / CELCON / STARTER TRUCK$1.50$3.00

Hey Bob, thanks for all the info!! I should have my truck with new motor back in about a week. Looks like you'll have some work to do your Geep 9 when you receive all that stuff! Keep us posted.

Hi Steve, thanks for the comments! As far as your concern for Evan Designs track voltage LED Failures I don't have all that many, and I have had no failures at this point. I'll be using more, as I'm terrible at assembling small components, wiring, and soldering, and I willing to pay for stuff already assembled to avoid it.

I should clarify that the pre-wired LEDs I've been having some trouble with were *not* from Evan Design. I've bought several specialty LEDs from them (flashing red for my scratch-built celltower and flickering orange for a campfire scene) and so far have not had any problems with any of them. The problematic ones were among a bundle of twenty from a no-name source, and as I said, I still have no idea what the problem was with those that failed. Other than being a tad pricey, I have had no complaints about any of the ED stuff!

Last edited by Steve Tyler
@Steve Tyler posted:

I should clarify that the pre-wired LEDs I've been having some trouble with were *not* from Evan Design. I've bought several specialty LEDs from them (flashing red for my scratch-built celltower and flickering orange for a campfire scene) and so far have not had any problems with any of them. The problematic ones were among a bundle of twenty from a no-name source, and as I said, I still have no idea what the problem was with those that failed. Other than being a tad pricey, I have had no complaints about any of the ED stuff!

Steve, thanks for clarifying that! Sorry if I caused any confusion for anybody.

Steve, thanks for clarifying that! Sorry if I caused any confusion for anybody.

Oh, no, any confusion was fully on me for both mentioning ED and the failing LEDs in the same post, without distinction or clarification. For the record, all the stuff I've gotten so far from ED has been first rate, and they have good customer service as well, so I thank you for highlighting the potential confusion and offering me an opportunity to clear up any ambiguity!

Morning guys I sure hope your all having a great weekend here, turns out we have rain again today so if I can clear it with the CEO I think I will spend the day in the train room working on my control cart and wiring.

@SIRT  Steve your modeling skills are just amazing, you surely could put together a how to video set that I would think almost all of us would watch! At least I know I would!

Well I will check in later today, I really want to get some work done and also try and find something for Switcher Saturday!

I hope you all find time to have fun with your layouts and trains! Except those folks that are at York! I hope you all go BROKE! LOL

Just got home from York. Wow what a show. Been in the train room unboxing some things. Met some of you guys on the forum. Rod Miller for one. Test running some of my purchases.  So far so good. Man it's a great group of people that's involved in the hobby. So much fun. Here's  a few pics of my layout only for fun. Farmerjohn. 20230213_19214820230212_17130720221011_19413320221011_19374120221011_19344320230213_192138

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Good evening everyone! I hope you all have had a great weekend.
Work at the mine continued today with me scratching building a miner’s shack. I had originally planned on purchasing a laser kit from Banta model works but figured I can do it myself for a cheaper price. Taking inspiration from their kit I began the project.
I started with building the floor. I cut the floor into a 4” by 4” square and connected the floor beams with an under frame. To make it more unique, I also took inspiration from a logging shack I saw in Townsend, Tennessee. The shacks used were made to be dragged or carried by flatcars. As a result, they were given skies to move across the ground. Though my layout is not a logging route I figured this shack would have been a former logging shack now living the rest of its days at the coal mine.
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With a good floor built I then turned my attention to the walls. I started with the front by adding a window and doorway. The door itself measures 1.5” tall and the height of the wall measuring 3”. Not a very big building. I did have some difficulty with the windows but I made them work. Maybe next time I will snag some out of a kit. Next, I made the last three walls, two with windows, and the back wall also having a peak. I finished the structure by adding a roof and an awning to the front.
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Finally, I finished today’s work by adding shingles to the roof. I did this by using black construction paper (which I probably have had since the 3rd grade) and cut it into strips. I glued the strips on top of each other and there yeah go, a decent looking roof.
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Tomorrow I will get it painted and maybe alter the roof so that it can be taken off so an interior can be added later. For now, it sits peacefully on the layout waiting for a train to pass by.
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Thanks for reading and have a good night!

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Morning guys I hope your all doing well, not a lot from me today as the CEO has had me a little busy with other projects and it didn't help having the power out for most of the day yesterday!

@SIRT Steve nice work on the abandoned track area! Same thing here as with Bob, they removed the track from the road, but left the track on both sides. I guess if the RR ever wants to reclaim the track for use again, it is cheaper to replace the 60' of track.

@farmerjohn John, everything you add to your layout just makes things so amazing! Your attention to detail is fun to watch you add to!

@Trainmaster04 Nice work on the miner shack! All it needs is a couple chairs and a small table for drinks! I am sure you have a wonderful plan already figured out for that area!

Here is all I have gotten done that last couple days.

First I worked on building a new control cart. As you can see I still have a long way to go.

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Yesterday I had planned to work on it, but as I said the power was out most of the day so I used my tailgate on my truck for a work table as it was the only good light! LOL

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Power is still on for now so I will see what I can get done!

I hope you all have a great week and find time to have fun with your layouts and trains!

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Good evening everyone!

Work continued with the shack today with me painting it and adding a stove pipe chimney to it. I used some deep green paint my dad used on a HO stock pen as a base. To add some contrast I also painted the posts and floor in a brown.
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I do not think I will make a chair for it as that might be my limit of building. I will probably get one off online and maybe even a side table. For now, this little guy is done until I can no longer stand idle with it.
Onto another project. I also started making a possible wooden observation car that will serve as my RR’s executive car. I say possible because this is just a test to see how far I can go. Here is what I have so far.
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Next time, I will probably be taking a break from this observation car to another building for the mine. Maybe a blacksmith next or another shack. We shall see!

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Hello everyone!
I am probably going to go crazy before the week is over but as they say, you can’t keep a good man down!

I took a break from the executive car and built the blacksmith for the mine. Like the miner shack the shop is inspired by a Banta kit I had originally planned on purchasing.
Work began with the base and walls. Instead of making the walls individual slats I cut each panel out with the slats partially cut through. It allowed me to save time on cutting and have less gaps between sections.
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To allow enough light to enter into the building I built in two doorways. One in the front and side. Next, came the roof. I made it simple by cutting out two sections and place them on angled supports.
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Since this building is open I decided to add a couple of forges with stacks. My father gave me a tub of clay he could not use for his vet clinic and was able to make two temporary forges. I also added two vents to the forges out of tooth picks and black construction paper. To finish them off, I took a plastic straw, painted it black, and fed it through the roof to the forges. I will probably purchase two scale premade forges when I look for blacksmith figures and anvils.
I finished this project by painting it and adding shingles to the roof. Now it sits at the mine waiting to be populated.
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This will probably be the last building I will make this week as my fingers are about to revolt and I don’t want that to happen!
Thanks for reading and have a good one!

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Some happy snaps I took this morning at the J. Reilly McCarren Transportation Museum...

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This "Littler Joe" was kitbashed by me from a Lionel EP-5 shell and an RMT GG-1 chassis...

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The big mountain, sculpted by the late Gene Austin, has been reinstalled and is seen in its glory alongside the Frisco/MKT Texas Special and the Giraffe Express...

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The Gi-raffe Express has been expanded to ten cars, a fodder gondola and Fortescue's caboose...

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Don't say you haven't been warned. 

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Mitch

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Been a while since I've posted on TPRR, finally got around to working on the lower yard. Ended up removing most of the track and doing a basic reconfiguration. Most would not realize there has been a change. Thanks to @Bill Webb on suggestions on how to (easily) install Tortoise operators. Resolved potential connectivity issues, as some of my curved switches are Ross ready while others were not. A little more benchwork is warranted plus a little wiring. Should be only a couple of days before I can post videos and photos of the lower level. Nice thing is I can run a modest switching operation without the upper level in place.  I just have to get my new engines on this section to test them out. 2 Milwaukee Road - an MTH Little Joe and the 6 wheeled Weaver Brass Hiawatha steamer and 3 MTH Burlington engines (from @Berwyns Toys and Trains) I have never been able to run due to the move from Illinois to Michigan. (That does not include a Pennsy Mountain and others that found their way home recently, funny how that happens?)

@Mark Boyce  if you would be so kind, please send the outline (or tips) you use to document your wiring. Your recent post is outstanding. I can wire, I am terrible at documentation and my wiring ends up looking like a bird's nest. If there is a problem its easier to tear it out and start all over since I cannot figure out what is what.

@ScoutingDad posted:

@Mark Boyce  if you would be so kind, please send the outline (or tips) you use to document your wiring. Your recent post is outstanding. I can wire, I am terrible at documentation and my wiring ends up looking like a bird's nest. If there is a problem its easier to tear it out and start all over since I cannot figure out what is what.

Jeff, I'll be glad to send you the documentation.  I'll try to do that tomorrow.

Oddly enough, I'm starting some projects going into the summer. But first, here's some Conrail!

Current project is bridge piers. My buddy Dave is 3D printing samples for me to test.

Dave reversed the print so we could try to make a plaster mold. Unfortunately, our efforts to prevent the plaster from sticking to the mold failed, and the plaster structure split right in half. Back to the drawing board. Fun project regardless.

- Jason

@jdstucks posted:

Oddly enough, I'm starting some projects going into the summer. But first, here's some Conrail!

Current project is bridge piers. My buddy Dave is 3D printing samples for me to test.

Dave reversed the print so we could try to make a plaster mold. Unfortunately, our efforts to prevent the plaster from sticking to the mold failed, and the plaster structure split right in half. Back to the drawing board. Fun project regardless.

- Jason

Why not make them in sections and then fasten them in place?

Good evening everyone!

The break I took yesterday proved to be beneficial to my fingers. However, I ended up cutting the end of my middle finger while working on today’s project. It was not too serious but the bandage did prove to be bothersome as I played my banjo.
Anyway, onto the project! What was meant to be a bobber caboose ended up being scrapped and turned into another building for the mine. Like everything else, first came the floors and then the walls.
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Once the walls were up I painted the exterior in red and the interior with green. (Thinking it was going to be a caboose). While the interior was still accessible I went ahead and added interior details. I added a desk, with stool, a couple of shelves, and a book shelf (which was going to be the ladder to the cupola). I also fashioned a door that I later removed.
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Realizing which way I tried the idea of a bobber caboose was not going to work. As a result, I took the big bulky sliding door off and added a pitched roof.
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What originally was going to be a caboose is now a miner punch clock shed where miners with their ID coins check in/out. I have placed it at the entrance of the mine so that workers can make sure they check in/out and get paid what they are owed.
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Though the project did not turn out as planned it was still able to be adapted into something better.
Thanks for reading and have a good night!

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