What did I do on my layout today? I signed a contract with a drywall company to finish the loft above my garage... the final step before building my layout. I'll post photos of my progress periodically. Those who may remember me know that this will be my second large layout... the first was dismantled and sold when we moved. 
Looking forward to this next adventure.
@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:You’re movin’ on up Bob.
Yes I am Jay. I just added a DCS commander too!
@Chessie posted:What did I do on my layout today? I signed a contract with a drywall company to finish the loft above my garage... the final step before building my layout. I'll post photos of my progress periodically. Those who may remember me know that this will be my second large layout... the first was dismantled and sold when we moved.
Sounds like a fun adventure. I'll get the popcorn 
Bob
ScoutingDad, four of the top ones, the woman with child, mailman, woman with bucket, and conductor with lantern are Plasticville.
Artie
Artie-DL&W and Strap Hanger ---- Thanks for identifying the people. Now that I look at the people - the K-Line figures appear to be the same as the Plasticville just not painted - woman and child, mailman.
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Today i did some touch-up brush painting on the Bungling Brothers Circus tent pole flat car due to over-spray, in spots, leaking through my masking job. I also cut to length the "tent poles" AKA wooden meat skewers that I bought from Amazon. I am awaiting deliver of the Lionel, post war flat car stakes that I purchase on Ebay. The next circus train car is the canvas transport car.
I also climbed up on my platform and fixed a dip in my track at a joint in the upper level yard that was causing the pilot of our MTH PRR M1-a steam locomotive to short and stall when it touched the center rail. With my deteriorating legs, climbing on platforms is no longer safe for me. This is why I am so slow in laying the new track and switches in my city scene. My son Chris is extremely busy with is job and has little to no time for the train layout. My young, former employee at my brass musical instrument repair business has offered to visit occasionally on Saturdays to help me with the layout. She will be over this coming Saturday. I hope to make progress then.
Chessie, I’m glad you are moving forward towards a new layout
Bob, wow! You are movin on up,
Randy, sounds like good plan
I’ve made some more progress on my subway tunnel cutout. The white strips on the tunnel wall will have LEDs behind them so they look like lights more painting to go and gaps to fill in. However it is getting closer to complete.
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@RSJB18 posted:I ordered circuit breakers and TVS diodes from Mouser yesterday. Figured it's time to get some proper circuit protection on the layout.
Why now?
Because I finally bought a Cab 1L!
I bought it from a forum member. It's in transit and I hope to have it by early next week.
Bob
Wow, Bob, when you fall, you fall HARD... first a DCS Commander, now a Cab1L... can a full blown Legacy system be far behind??? If it snows tomorrow, I’ll hold you responsible 
@Apples55 posted:Wow, Bob, when you fall, you fall HARD... first a DCS Commander, now a Cab1L... can a full blown Legacy system be far behind??? If it snows tomorrow, I’ll hold you responsible
Filling the tank on my snowblower now ❄☃️❄☃️❄☃️
😂😂😂😂😂
The single-motor PW F-3 that pulled the 4 car NP North Coast Limited painted 25+ years ago is being replaced with a twin motor version which needed a new frame for the power unit, pilot and truck sideframes. These were painted yesterday. The twin motors are needed for the 4 additional cars (all vista domes) just painted.
Also, the new A unit cab is getting some bodywork which I dread since I'm so bad at it as reflected by the absurd quantities of body filler and sandpaper I use for such a modest project.
The Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association generously provided NP shop drawings showing the graphics for the power units and passenger cars of the Loewy design NCL to facilitate decal placement. That starts tomorrow.
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I continue to chip away on my covid projects in spite of spending several days in April visiting National Parks in Utah. Great to be out in the open air for a change. My custom decal order arrived but I have been too busy with the W24 interior and roof detail to apply the decals. When I am finished, I will add three cars to my roster that are currently operating on the North Shore Scenic RR, Duluth, MN. All three cars will have interior detail and overhead lighting. I am also adding mars lighting electronics to the red overhead taillight on the Northland. I am still waiting for an order from Digi-Key to arrive to complete the circuity.
Interesting note on the W24 combined: A beam was installed in the luggage area for the purpose of hanging deer/game. The Northland and the W24 were parked in a remote location of Northern Minnesota during deer hunting season. The DM&IRR president would use these two cars to entertain guests and enjoy hunting while roughing it in luxury.
Cheers, Dave
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Dave the W24 looks great! Excellent history with the deer hunting trips and racks in the car. It reminds me of when I worked at Mount Storm Power Station in northern West Virginia in the early to mid ‘90s. The station was on top of the mountain because that was where the coal mine was. The Western Maryland Railway built a beach line up the mountain and by the ‘90s CSX was hauling a lot of coal up the bends to the station. We rode a bus subsidized by the state from Keyser WV another CSX town to work. One day on the way home, one of my coworkers saw a fresh roadkill, and hollered to the driver to stop. The driver opened the big door, and the guy hauled the deer onto the vinyl floor of the bus. The truth can be stranger than fiction.
Switching over from diesel modern to something earlier on the layout. Was putting the subway set away and decided to give the wheels a light oiling - those trucks would never win a pinewood derby. SOOO as long as I was working on them decided to add about 24 little people per car. Then had to take a few photos.
I am going to have to print a few CTA decals for these cars. Suppose MTH could not license them.
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Great work everyone! I wish I had more time to get things done but the house painting is top priority to the CEO. I did sneak out the other morning and put another coat of paint on my little people. I know I could move on, but I really want to get these little people behind me! LOL
Well I hope you all have a great week and fun with your layouts!
Your talents are never ending Mike. You are either painting houses or people. Be careful on the ladder.
@ScoutingDad posted:I know Mike G typically uses Preiser unpainted people. I have seen only photos from Artista and an Australian outfit doing detailed figures. Here are a few I have found over the last couple of years. For the most part the men are 6 scale feet, but the thickness of the people varies - making mixing look odd.
The cheap China sourced figures are reasonably good at fitting inside trains and vehicles - and through a window are fine. Woodland Scenic and Scene-a-rama are reasonably detailed. Does anyone know what the two sets are marked unknown? The ones on the top left are "soft plastic".
Plasticville
Took a short video.....
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Jay don't worry I don't like to be up on the ladder so I get as much done as I can when I am up there! Plus after my last Seizure the Doc doesn't like me up there! LOL
Gandy, Love the train, but more so I Love your city scene and how you go from there to rural!
Applied decals to two of four LIONEL 15" offset vista domes in Loewy NP North Coast Limited livery, and trimmed the remaining decals to be applied tomorrow. Their placement was aided with prototype graphics docs from the Northern Pacific Railway Historical Society. Photos this weekend.
Will finish up the bodywork on the F-3 A unit this evening and begin painting it tomorrow.
Good morning everyone! For today I ran some trains today. Thanks and I hope y'all enjoy the video!
I finished wiring the new yard tracks and uncouplers. Everything mostly works. I was running an RS-3 to test and found couple of dead spots going through the switches that I need to investigate.
Cleaned up the mess too!
Bob
@Trainmaster04 enjoyed the video of consist an lashing of the engines....
I noticed a different style painting if the C&O freight. Who makes this freight? interesting.
I am involved in construction an planning my downtown community of Olive Hill... Nearly finished with my Western Auto building kit.
No Western Auto Signs available on internet in Scale 1:48 so my graphic artist daughter will be designing a two sided sign for me soon.
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@Seth Thomas posted:@Trainmaster04 enjoyed the video of consist an lashing of the engines....
I noticed a different style painting if the C&O freight. Who makes this freight? interesting.
I am involved in construction an planning my downtown community of Olive Hill... Nearly finished with my Western Auto building kit.
No Western Auto Signs available on internet in Scale 1:48 so my graphic artist daughter will be designing a two sided sign for me soon.
I am glad you enjoyed the video! The C&O boxcar is a Lionel USRA double sheathed model that I got not too long ago. If my memory serves me well, I think Lionel produced this car around 2008 2009 area. I think they were not very popular since this particular one has been sitting on a shelf long enough for one side of the box to be sun bleached.
Have you seen the Miller Engineering lighted Western Auto sign ?
Yes, Richie C.
Thank you for the suggestion, but for some reason the Miller Neon isn’t in the plan for my little home town.
😊But not ruling the neon out just yet. I will see what my daughter comes up with.
Next kit is the city judge court and police station. Will begin after the mowing gets done this afternoon.
A young middle grader is visiting the layout Friday evening with his uncle. He’s into trains and his dad is supposed to start a layout for him soon. So I need to straighten up the train room and clean track to ensure all roads are clear and working...
I am excited this young fella is interested in trains and wishes to visit my layout....
Thanks again guys!
i appreciate the explanation on the freight.
I’ll check out the catalogs. I might see the graphics better. It’s one I’m not familiar with. The C&O really shows up 😊
I envy the forumites who undertake projects and, based on what they post, largely accomplish them with minimum difficulties brought about by their own mistakes.
Not so for me! As I mentioned earlier, I'd begun applying decals to the four NP North Coast Limited dome cars with the aid of prototype diagrams provided by their historical society.
Lo and behold, the very first side of the very first car I screwed up by applying a prominent decal (the "Vista Dome (monad emblem) North Coast Limited") centered on the car rather than the prototypically correct (as shown in my NPRHA furnished diagrams) monad-centered placement with the text skewed to the right!!!
Fortunately, having learned my lesson that I have elder-onset dyslexia and took precautions accordingly, the other cars were decaled without further disaster. The wrongly applied decal has been removed and the area is being repainted--a masking/painting sequence with which very familiar to me having painted and repainted these cars until an acceptable finish was achieved.
Today I soldered jumper wires to the two outside rails and connecting the center rails for a through path on the center rail on a old Ross switch. I only did the center rail on the main line route, the diverging is going to depend on power from a feeder on the adjoining track.
New Ross switches this is already done.
Caution only buy old Ross switches if there a low price and your confident of your soldering skills.
In soldering a jumper wire on the center rails a outside rail is close by and I managed to make a real good direct short, and had to undo it and redo it.
I was apprehensive because I have had trouble soldering wires to rails before but it went OK today.
Morning guys, sure is alot of great work being done! I sure hope you are all well and having a good weekend! As for me not to much, Iwas able to get out and finish my 3rd round of little people and that's about it!
Oh I did put together a military train for Mondays town parade!
Photos of the completed yard tracks.
Still debating how to finish the yard scenery. I'm leaning toward a paved look between the tracks.
Bob
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Excellent job Bob, it turned out very nicely. Why did you not use tubular track in your yard?.
I found the C&O freight in the 2009 catalog @Trainmaster04
After review of the catalog I recall it now along with a C&O steam in the same page.
Thanks
@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:Excellent job Bob, it turned out very nicely. Why did you not use tubular track in your yard?.
In order to fit the third spur, I had to use switches that could be cut shorter. I found MTH scaletrax on Cabin Fever auctions so I stayed with the same track for the spurs.
Thanks
I added a couple of industry spur tracks for the future industrial complex. 
I have my "test" vehicles working them now.
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Bob, the yard looks great!! You will be glad you did it.
John, good choice of test vehicles.
Ingenious Bob, thank you.
Bob, Having walked in many RR yards (NYC, D&H, DL&W, Susquehanna,etc.)- NO roads between the tracks, paved, or otherwise just very hard packed oily earth (Black or very dark grey) where a pick-up might run. BUT it's your RR so do what you like.
@modeltrainsparts posted:Bob, Having walked in many RR yards (NYC, D&H, DL&W, Susquehanna,etc.)- NO roads between the tracks, paved, or otherwise just very hard packed oily earth (Black or very dark grey) where a pick-up might run. BUT it's your RR so do what you like.
No roads for sure but the oily dirt, gravel look is what I may do. Been looking at pix of yards too and most are a mess after many years of use.
I want to build up to the top of the rail head so I will probably use some foam board and then ground cover over it.
Thanks
Bob, If you go the oily look you may want to try masking the rail heads, and then spray the ground cover with rattle can black from 8" - 12" away to get as much or as little oily effect as you want.
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Finished the lighting for my subway tunnel. Finished with the gray paint for the walls. Next up will be adding some pipes.
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With my granddaughters coming over tomorrow, I've been busy today with the accessories on my layout. A recent addition is the Lionel operating horse car and corral.
I'll try to post a short video of it showing it in action later. It's not easy, IMO, to get it to work well, though maybe a tad easier than the operating cattle car and corral, which I always found challenging to get it to work without those critters toppling over and getting jammed in the car and corral. Arnold
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RSJB18 Bob as modeltrainparts suggested - build up the layers with foam to the level you want, but before you put anything on top, spray with the rattle can paints. It will eat into the foam depending on how much you spray. Light coats will produce a textured effect and then you can add ground cover as you wish. Mask off any thing you don't want covered with paint. Try spraying a piece outside to get a feel for how much the paint eats into the foam. For the most part I was getting an orange peel texture, but a heavy coat would eat down over a 1/4 inch.
I assume you will do this on you layout - if you have a box fan place a furnace filter on the incoming side and it will trap paint particles. If you need ducting use cardboard and duct tape.
Now working half a lifetime with lawyers comes in - the propellant is usually flammable be careful about using too much in a closed room. Provide ventilation as much as possible. Follow the manufacturer's directions.
Well, wasn’t layout work but I got my new Lionel NYC ESE Franklin D Roosevelt Observation car On Friday. I populated it with Lionel people and Little People from the 1930’s - 1950’s.
Looks great. Easy to take apart, three (3) screws and gently pry it apart and populate.
Took about 30 minutes. Some additional pictures later.
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@modeltrainsparts posted:Bob, If you go the oily look you may want to try masking the rail heads, and then spray the ground cover with rattle can black from 8" - 12" away to get as much or as little oily effect as you want.
@ScoutingDad posted:RSJB18 Bob as modeltrainparts suggested - build up the layers with foam to the level you want, but before you put anything on top, spray with the rattle can paints. It will eat into the foam depending on how much you spray. Light coats will produce a textured effect and then you can add ground cover as you wish. Mask off any thing you don't want covered with paint. Try spraying a piece outside to get a feel for how much the paint eats into the foam. For the most part I was getting an orange peel texture, but a heavy coat would eat down over a 1/4 inch.
I assume you will do this on you layout - if you have a box fan place a furnace filter on the incoming side and it will trap paint particles. If you need ducting use cardboard and duct tape.
Now working half a lifetime with lawyers comes in - the propellant is usually flammable be careful about using too much in a closed room. Provide ventilation as much as possible. Follow the manufacturer's directions.
There will be no spray painting in the house according to SWMBO!
I'm going to experiment with a few ideas and see how it goes.
Thanks gents!
Ran some military themed trains and dusted up the wall, which seemed appropriate on Memorial Day weekend -
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@RSJB18M. Mitchell Marmel I enjoyed your story and photos.
I’ve been in the train room an shop painting and assembling this morning early. Will complete the police judge station this afternoon late. Will add the windows an powder later.
And I picked up my CTT magazine to read Lou Palumbo’s Views from the underground... he’s the first thing I read....😄
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Getting ready for a final pour of resin on river. Hope to do it Wed if temperature stays right. These are before pic's and I'll post some after the pour. We still have a long way to go before installing the river but everything just takes time as you all know.
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Your layout and scenery are second to none!
In a response to Trumptrain you commented on his lake and he responded mentioning my name. Below are a few more scenes of a similar lake from our store demonstration layout from several years ago. The same artist did the painting for this lake as did Trumptrain's. Pat (aka Trumptrain) and I have been close friends for the last 46 years. Pat gave you a good description of the process to create the lake. My artist friend is quite old and can no longer work. However, I have done the painting for several lakes since then very successfully. If you need more clarification, feel free to contact me. My E-mail address and phone number are in my profile.
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Your lake really looks good, Randy! Your friend did a fine job!
The highlight is the canoe with Snoopy and the Woodstock clone scouts.
John, your River scenery is really taking shape!!
@farmerjohn @Randy Harrison- both great examples of water modeling. Love Snoopy and Woodstock(s) too!
@jrmertz- The tunnel is looking good. I wasn't sure where you were going when you stared but it really came together.
@Arnold D. Cribari- It's not easy to herd real cattle or horses either.
@Strap Hanger- nice collection. Dusting is appropriate today. 
@Seth Thomas- the building will be a nice addition to the layout.
It's been cold and raining since Friday afternoon here in the northeast. Saturday was the CEO's b'day, but yesterday I got some time on the layout. I did more trouble shooting on the yard lead switches. I ran several different sized loco's and found and corrected (hopefully), some dead spots. I think I'm good to move to scenery now. I'm going to try a mock up of what I want and see how it goes. Looks like the sun may return to the sky today so I can get the rattle cans out and try my ideas.
My Cab-1L arrived at my office Friday so I will have it in my hands tomorrow!
Bob
@RSJB18 posted:I did more trouble shooting on the yard lead switches. I ran several different sized loco's and found and corrected (hopefully), some dead spots. I think I'm good to move to scenery now. I'm going to try a mock up of what I want and see how it goes.
FWIW, I recommend you do some running and exercise all the track and various routes well before you start adding a lot of scenery. It's way harder to do track work after you have all the scenery and ballast in place! I'm eager to start enhancing the looks of my layout, but I really don't want to have a lot of tinkering with switches and track after I get the scenery in place. I've been pulling stuff out of storage and running it around just to verify that a variety of locomotives and rolling stock run problem-free on all the routes. Still finding an occasional oddity that I have to tweak. 
@gunrunnerjohn posted:FWIW, I recommend you do some running and exercise all the track and various routes well before you start adding a lot of scenery. It's way harder to do track work after you have all the scenery and ballast in place! I'm eager to start enhancing the looks of my layout, but I really don't want to have a lot of tinkering with switches and track after I get the scenery in place. I've been pulling stuff out of storage and running it around just to verify that a variety of locomotives and rolling stock run problem-free on all the routes. Still finding an occasional oddity that I have to tweak.
Agreed John- I will probably not ballast for a while until I'm confident that I've found all the issues.
Thanks
Morning guys and please take a moment to remember those who fought for our freedom and paid the ultimate price!
Seth, you doing a wonderful job on the police station
John, the river is looking great and will be AMAZING on your layout! But I do have one question, how do you do the pour at the joint right above the falls so they match up and your still able to take them apart to install?
Randy, your lake is so inviting! I could see myself swimming or fishing there!
Bob, I am sure you know, TEST, TEST, TEST, and when your done testing TEST again! lol
I haven't done anything, but when I do get the chance I enjoy what you all are doing! If any of you hear of a big steam engine MTH PS2 or 3 for sale that wont take my arm or leg, please let me know! LOL
@mike g. posted:Bob, I am sure you know, TEST, TEST, TEST, and when your done testing TEST again! lol
That's for sure Mike!
PS- I just noticed that you are at the top of two consecutive pages, 1019 and 1020. What are the chances? I'd play those numbers today.
LOL wow now you have my attention! I just might have to run down to the store and try it out! If I win I wont have to worry about my arm or leg! LOL
Added a crossing and tall grass between the tracks.
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Nice Crossing Dave! But the big question is where did you get the tall grass?
For the rest of you I pulled the trigger on an MTH 2-8-2 USRA Light Mikado Steam Engine w/Proto-Sound 2.0 - Pennsvlvania RR at what I thought was a good price. Should be here Friday!
Now all I have to do is figure out how to make it BN, SF, or UP! LOL
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@Dave Ripp. posted:
There is nothing there Dave.
@mike g. posted:There is nothing there Dave.
That's odd. Anyway thanks Mike. I think the carpet looks better in person. You can get little samples at Menards by the carpet rolls but I ordered mine on line after looking at it there. I have also seen it at Sam's Club but I'm not sure if they still have it. Nice Mikado I had a Frisco Mikado that I wish I'd kept.
@Dave Ripp. posted:That's odd. Anyway thanks Mike. I think the carpet looks better in person. You can get little samples at Menards by the carpet rolls but I ordered mine on line after looking at it there. I have also seen it at Sam's Club but I'm not sure if they still have it. Nice Mikado I had a Frisco Mikado that I wish I'd kept.
Thanks Dave, I will be going to North Dakota next month and will check things out at Menards as that is the closest one to me! LOL But I also make a special trip there while visiting the in-laws to see what train stuff they have!
I hope the Mikado turns out to be a good buy as its will be my first and only PS 2 steam engine!
I have a PS2 B&O Mikado. It runs great, but has an slight noise coming from under the boiler shell at slow speeds. I have not figured it out, but put the cover on and put it on the shelf until another time.
@Mark Boyce posted:I have a PS2 B&O Mikado. It runs great, but has an slight noise coming from under the boiler shell at slow speeds. I have not figured it out, but put the cover on and put it on the shelf until another time.
I was only able to find one video of the 2-8-2 but it was HO and hard to see things! But it does look sharp!
@mike g. posted:I was only able to find one video of the 2-8-2 but it was HO and hard to see things! But it does look sharp!
Mike, it is. Mine is the Premier. Is yours Premier or RailKing.
@Mark Boyce posted:Mike, it is. Mine is the Premier. Is yours Premier or RailKing.
Its a Railking, I couldn't afford a Premier!
@mike g. posted:Its a Railking, I couldn't afford a Premier!
I took a chance on the Premier which had the noise, and the seller offered it at a ridiculously low price.
@Mark Boyce posted:I took a chance on the Premier which had the noise, and the seller offered it at a ridiculously low price.
Nice, I hope when the time comes it's an easy fix!
@mike g. posted:Nice Crossing Dave! But the big question is where did you get the tall grass?
For the rest of you I pulled the trigger on an MTH 2-8-2 USRA Light Mikado Steam Engine w/Proto-Sound 2.0 - Pennsvlvania RR at what I thought was a good price. Should be here Friday!
Now all I have to do is figure out how to make it BN, SF, or UP! LOL
Looks good Mike. I do have to take exception with the repaint though
Not sure which model you bought but just make sure it doesn't have 5v boards. They tend to flame out. I'm sure several of the experts will provide advice. If you have the model # you can check the MTH site for details.
Bob
I took a first jab at the ground cover for the yard. Not too pleased with the results but it's a start. I want the areas between the tracks to be slightly depressed from the rail head so I may go old school with plaster cloth and gravels. I can still use this stuff as a base between the tracks and have areas exposed to look like old asphalt that has been covered over by years of dirt and grime.
To be continued.....
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Not being sure what you used for ground cover, but if it's soft enough, just run a vehicle back and forth over the area pressing down moderately hard. This could give you some ruts, tire tracks, etc. Keep blackening it. Just yesterday i rode Amtrak from Boston to Albany. For the first 20 miles all you saw were yards and industrial sidings. Take a short train ride down there on L.I. and bring your camera along. It will give you firsthand knowledge of the look you want.
@modeltrainsparts posted:Not being sure what you used for ground cover, but if it's soft enough, just run a vehicle back and forth over the area pressing down moderately hard. This could give you some ruts, tire tracks, etc. Keep blackening it. Just yesterday i rode Amtrak from Boston to Albany. For the first 20 miles all you saw were yards and industrial sidings. Take a short train ride down there on L.I. and bring your camera along. It will give you firsthand knowledge of the look you want.
The board is corrugated sign material we had left over from Covid signs we had made up last year. It's too rigid to create ruts in, but I understand where you are going.
The journey continues !
Thanks
Thanks for the information Bob, I tried looking it up but couldn't find what board it has. It's a 30-1164-1, maybe some one will chime in! LOL
I had to recover my iPad. I hadn't backed up my iPad to my other iPhones or iPads so for my DCS Wi-Fi, I will have to re-add a bunch of engines. Oh well.
@mike g. posted:Thanks for the information Bob, I tried looking it up but couldn't find what board it has. It's a 30-1164-1, maybe some one will chime in! LOL
It was released in 2000 and has a 5-volt board. https://mthtrains.com/30-1164-1
That early release date would indicate a 5-volt board, but I looked up the manual on the MTH page. Lots of folks, including me, have engines with 5-volt boards and haven’t had a problem, but it is true the failure rate is higher than with 3-volt boards.
Mike G - the 30-1164-1 RAILKING L-1 MIKADO has an 8.4 V battery and was released in 2000. Easy to find in the manual section on replacing the battery.
I have not had a problem with either the 8.4 or 5 volt PS2 boards except for one I blew without replacing the battery. Found a note from the seller after the fact warning of the battery condition. Everything I have gets a BCR before ever getting on the rails. good luck with the engine - tender looks too short to me - but I know nothing about those engines. ; ) Jeff
Thanks Mark, I know I have a couple 5v engines and haven't had a problem yet! Fingers crossed! LOL
@mike g. posted:Thanks Mark, I know I have a couple 5v engines and haven't had a problem yet! Fingers crossed! LOL
Mike, you’re welcome!
@Mark Boyce posted:Mike, you’re welcome!
Hi Mark, dont they sell BRC for this engine? If so where would I get one?
@mike g. posted:Hi Mark, dont they sell BRC for this engine? If so where would I get one?
Mike, you are right. The BCR is for the 5-volt boards and the BCR2 is for the 3-volt boards. They are made by J&W Electronics. You can but directly from them or lots of hobby shops (online and brick and mortar) carry them. I put them in all my PS and PS2 engines.
https://www.jandwelectronics.com/bcr
So should I wait until I get my new to me engine to see what it has?
Dad and I on Memorial Day continued on building his new layout. It's a little hard to see here but we started building the high line on the raisers that will be a commuter service line. I'll try and get some better pictures tomorrow. This was an instance when the picture looked better on my phone and looked bad on a computer screen haha. Have a great day!
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@mike g. posted:So should I wait until I get my new to me engine to see what it has?
Good idea Mike. Also- don't power it up until you install the new BCR.
Bob
@mike g. posted:Ok I will have to order one, when I figure out what one I need.
Mike, if the engine still has the original boards, it would take the BCR, which had the capacitors in a plastic can the same size as a nine volt battery. However, if someone replaced the circuit boards along the way with 3-volt boards, it would take the BCR2 which has two wires and a plug attached to the capacitors. Might as well wait to see what is in it.
I agree with Bob, don’t power it up until you change the battery for a BCR. A old, bad battery could damage the board when power is applied.
@mike g. posted:Ok I will have to order one, when I figure out what one I need.
@Mark Boyce posted:Mike, if the engine still has the original boards, it would take the BCR, which had the capacitors in a plastic can the same size as a nine volt battery. However, if someone replaced the circuit boards along the way with 3-volt boards, it would take the BCR2 which has two wires and a plug attached to the capacitors. Might as well wait to see what is in it.
I agree with Bob, don’t power it up until you change the battery for a BCR. A old, bad battery could damage the board when power is applied.
The more important question is how did Mr. BNSF suddenly decide to start running Steam?
@RSJB18 posted:The more important question is how did Mr. BNSF suddenly decide to start running Steam?
And Pennsylvania steam at that!! 🤔 It must have been his medication. That’s what I tell folks who question my actions! 😆
Well THANK YOU Bob and Mark!
I believe it must have been the hit to my head when I had my last seizure back in December! LOL Of course the new meds they put me on doesn't help making proper decisions when it comes to trains! LOL
All in all I have been looking at alot of great layouts including your 2 and came to the conclusion that every layout should have one Steam engine as to that is where everything else came from!
I would rename it BN but I dont know if there were BN Steam engines! LOL
But thanks for asking! Along with all the help and information!
Mike, I’m glad we were able to make a positive influence in your life! 😜
Mike - The Burlington Northern Railroad was the product of the merger of four major railroads in 1970: the Great Northern Railway, the Northern Pacific Railway, the Spokane, Portland and Seattle Railway and the Chicago, Burlington and Quincy Railroad. extracted from Wikipedia. So no there would not have been a steamer running under the BN flag. One of the new sponsors has a production run of a Burlington steamer - MTH Premier. Looks like it will be a nice engine.
Oh - and the engine is PS3 no battery needed!
Mark, your all positive for me, but the wife thinks your corrupting me every chance you get!
Jeff, I will have to check Burlington Steamer. Anything has to be better then Pennsylvania RR! 😂
@mike g. posted:Mark, your all positive for me, but the wife thinks your corrupting me every chance you get!
Jeff, I will have to check Burlington Steamer. Anything has to be better then Pennsylvania RR! 😂
DEMI'S FIGHTIN' WORDS SIR! 😂😂
Mike, The PRR L1 Mikado has a Belpaire firebox, which was widely used (almost exclusively) by the PRR. The only other major class 1 RR in the country to use Belpaire fireboxes was the Great Northern. You're in luck as the GN class O-1 Mikados had Belpaire fireboxes. Have fun.
@modeltrainsparts posted:Mike, The PRR L1 Mikado has a Belpaire firebox, which was widely used (almost exclusively) by the PRR. The only other major class 1 RR in the country to use Belpaire fireboxes was the Great Northern. You're in luck as the GN class O-1 Mikados had Belpaire fireboxes. Have fun.
Thank you so much for the information! My First engine was a GN! Look what I found! LOL
CLASS O * MIKADO * 2-8-2
The popular Mikado (2-8-2) was best exemplified on Great Northern by the celebrated O-8. The first three engines in this sub-class (3397-3399) were GN-built in 1932, and were the only locomotives constructed in the U.S. that year for domestic service. The O-8 was not only the heaviest Mikado type ever built, but the heaviest on axle of any steam locomotive, aggregating 81,250 pounds per axle. Originally designed steam pressure was 280 pounds, but this was later reduced to 250 pounds. Twenty-two rebuilt O-7's joined the O-8 class in 1944-46.
You guys are precious! Being an old guy (but not quite retired) - I cannot imagine not having some sort of reverence for a bunch of the old line East Coast Railroads - New York Central, Reading and Pennsy. While I am rather fond of the BNSF and CN US acquisition Flags (Wisc Central, Chgo & NW, ICG) - dissing these East Coast flags is rather like rail road heresy. I assume this banter is just in the spirit of fun - kind of like dissing baseball teams among buds.
What I really need is a huge layout that allows me to run the entire national railroad from Chicago west to the coast. The East Coast Flags get to stop in Chicago from time to time so they are not being excluded from the mix.
Best to all ... Jeff aka ScoutingDad
What I need is a huge layout also, Jeff. Mine would be Western Maryland, B&O, P&LE, B&LE, Shawmut, Pittsburgh & West Virginia, Erie, oh I guess I would let PRR and NYC play also. That makes a baseball team.
I don't know Mark, I think you need to add another for a relief pitcher spot. ; )
Erie and B&O and maybe Virginia would be other east coast flags I missed. And maybe Lackawanna - but what the heck is P&LE, B&LE, Shawmut, Pittsburgh & West Virginia? I'll say nothing about Texas, Florida Coast or Southern since those I never saw in Chicago. BUT - I will give a shout out to N&W's 611 which I got a chance to see in Wheaton IL a number of years back - those shop guys made a great looking steamer and also the Southern Crescent Limited which was a slick looking passenger consist.
Jeff, I have a closer focus; only railroads that were in Western Pennsylvania. That’s why I picked PRR and NYC last, they covered too much territory. Relief Pitcher, hmmm Lake Erie, Clarion & Franklin! 😊
Mark, speaking of fallen flags, I get out to your area of the state. What company operated along Ohio River Blvd? It’s now NS of course. Thank you.
