Whats the best size wood for the layout top again?

My bench work has 1 foot centers on the 1 by 4 vertical boards. I use 1/4 inch pegboard with 1/4 inch carpet over it. That way I can poke a hole where ever I wish for wiring. I can walk anywhere on it at about 185 lbs.

I used smooth sided 1/2" OSB for my layout, its far less expensive than plywood,doesn't warp and isn't as heavy making it easier to work with. It is also engineered for strength if thats your concern, keep in mind with 18" centers a 200lb roofer can walk on it carrying a 100lb bundle of shingles.My layout has supports ever 3 feet or so and I can still walk on it. Many folks swear by big thick sheets of plywood but I think its overkill for an oguage layout,but to each his own.

I also used OSB.Supports are on 24" centers I'm 230 lbs.I walk on top the layout with no problems.

Awesome, thanks. I used 1/2" OSB for the shelving underneath my benchwork and it seems plenty strong enough. My spacers vary but are at most 24" so that should work. Thanks!

I used 1/2" plywood on top of a 1"x3" frame with 18" centers.  Never had a issue with getting my 190 lbs on top, which seems to happen way to often!

Jim

I know this has been discussed hundreds of times, but I cannot seem to find a good thread on this since the forum switch. What wood/plywood should I be using for the top of my layout where the trackwork will lay? Is 1/2" plywood sufficient? I am seeing some use like 3/4" birch, but that seems like a waste to me, especially at 45 bucks a sheet. Plus it is completely covered, I dont see the use for such a high grade piece.

Thanks for your replies in advance, sorry its another thread that you have seen 100 times.

Depends on how you use it, hardly a waste if you want it flat and straight, however if your screwing it down for a flat lander than you really need the framing beneath it to be straight and flat not necessarily the plywood. Sorry about the pic being in the middle of your quote, it happens from my iPad with this new sucky format.

1/2" or 5/8" CDX Fir plywood with 1/2" homasote.  Trust me, OSB is not lighter than plywood.  That's not really a factor when building a layout, but when you're sheathing a roof with 185 sheets, you figure this out pretty quickly.  There is 7/16" OSB which is lighter, but I guess I'm just not a fan of OSB.  Glued together wood chips are not more structurally sound when laid flat than plywood.  It is structural as wall sheathing-vertically applied and nailed to studs every 8" to studs 16" on center, but not designed for decking.  Where did 18" on centers come from??  You sure as heck don't need cabinet grade birch 3/4" plywood. Fir plywood is a better, more stable product than southern yellow pine, buy the Fir, not a fan of syp either .  My 2$

Either way, you're not making any progress unless you're making sawdust.  Have Fun   

I've been using 1/2" interior grade since 1955 without problems. My framework is all 1"X 4" fir 16" on center. FWIW, I'd forget about using OSB. My biggest complaint is 1/2" plywood is no longer 1/2" it's 7/16". Granted it's not much to some but it is noticable.

God Bless,

Pappy

TCA TTOS

Hey zett. I used a 3/4 11 ply cabinet-grade plywood from H.D. I don't know if it was on sale or not, but it was $22.00/sheet and is really nice material. It's basically AC (sanded on both sides) plywood. I'm doing a 24" around the room layout, they even ripped it for me, then it was really easy to handle. JA

Zett -

I'm going to use mdf. That said, the thickness seems to be the new issue over at HomeDepot. Used to be 3/4 or 5/8's....now its 11/16's....or some hooey like that. So, I'm going with something about...well about "that" thick!

I'm also putting down a layer of a rubber matting that is about 1/2 inch thick to hopefully curb the noise factor. The stuff is used for horse stalls - so if it can hold up to hoofs - it will hold up to trains.

Right now - I have no idea what the end result will be - but as long as I have a generally flat surface (or at least one that doesn't sag and create anything more than a 3% grade!) - I'm good.

D&D Railway, what's the size of your room? I'm doing a 24" around the room as well but with a 4ft wide pennisula down the center. My room is a 15'x40'. Do you have a track plan you could post?

CofG

"The Right Way"

C of G- I have been working on my layout for a couple months, had to modify the room, sheetrock, carpet, that sort of thing. My benchwork is done, and I do have some pictures I'll try to post, will have to figure out how. I think we had similar ideas about the peninsula. My room is 14 x 23, I have an "L" shaped walk-in area and for the purpose of construction, I have a 2 foot walkway area that goes around the room on the interior of the "around the room" track. It is the dreaded "duck under, which will eventually be filled in with track after I get the original "around the room" portion finished. Pretty confusing, I'm sure. Watch this thread for a few days, I'll get a picture or two. JA   

C of G.. Here are 3 pix, which give you an idea of what I'm doing. When I have some track down, I was going to post it to this site, but here are a couple pix anyhow. Note the doorway enters into an "L" shape control area, which eventually will be the only "open" area in the layout. The 2 foot walkways around the "around the room" sections will be filled in as I expand interior track/yard areas. There is a mountain which basically goes around the entire room, so by using the walkway/access, I can construct the montains and install the 2 main lines of track with out a long reach or climbing on the table. After these are running, I'll create access hatches, and create my point to point linesand will essentially have a full table layout. Hope this gives you some ideas. Best regards, JA  

I think what you use depends a lot on what sort of framing you use.  I am using ribbon cut plywood that follows the track and is supported as often as I can.  3/4" birch works well, and really isn't that expensive because I am not using a lot of it.  I think I am on my third sheet.  I would never use OSB in a track of this sort.  But, I suppose it could be used in other ways.  But, I've also read posts on here from people who have had warping with OSB and ended up with jammed switches and poor running.

Mike

D&D Railway, those look pics look pretty good. The only difference in my and yours is my pennisula down the center of the room is 4ft wide. This will be a dead in yard/engine service. The 2ft around the wall benchwork will be my towns, scenery, etc.

CofG

"The Right Way"

C of G,

My layout is 28' by 14' in the same configuration as your idea. 

If I could do it over (and I will) I would add 3- or 4 storage tracks under the top side.  Access would be from either end of the yard.  This will mean going from a flat top to one with elevation.  I would love to have an extra 12 feet.

My layout is modular.  I took 3/4" birch plywood and riped it into 6" wide strips for the 4 outside edges of the modules (z' x 4', 2' x 6', and 3' x 4').  O used 1" x 3" boards on 1' centers to cross brace the modules.  I then laid 1/2" Homasote on top.  I have built my tables with out any underlayment for 50 years.  However, I plan on going to more open top and will use 1/2" to support the Homasote track base.

Jan

Jan, that is almost identical to mine. That's a pretty cool track plan as well. I also have thought of finding somewhere to put a hidden storage yard as well.

CofG

"The Right Way"

COG.. Looks like we had the same room. I wanted to run a couple of long loops, so I ran track around my "L" walk-in area. I like your yard concept. I eneded up with a few 048 curves around my peninsula/walk in, and I hope it works out. I wish I had your 40' room. Post a few pix when you can. I'll post my track layout tomorrow, take a look. BTW, I'll have enough money in switches to finance an actual railroad! JA 

D&D Railway, as soon as I take some pics I will post. Also I should say that I'm a 2 railer but love all things trains no matter if 2 or 3 rails. I'm going to use 54" radius which is 108" in 3 rail. 54" is a tight squeeze in my space but with the 40' length It dosen't eat up as much space as you would think.

CofG

"The Right Way"

I believe some O-gaugers advocated thicker decks for noise reduction, the idea being that more mass has less vibration from moving trains.