williams trains

you can buy parts direct from Bachmann, I order from them from time to time. they have been pretty good about getting parts in a timely manner. go to Bachmann's website. as far as your NW2, what is it doing that is confusing?

Old Williams is different then new Williams by Bach, but many parts will be the same.   I have some couplers and Reverse units also.  As asked what is the issue. G

To GGG:  All I need is a coupler for my NW 2.  Got one?

To both:  In forward, it goes very slow [too slow for the applied voltage];  and the bell frequently actuates on its own.  In reverse,  all is fine;  it does what it should.  I have applied 6VDC to each motor on the work bench.  Both seem to operate normally.

If George does not have your coupler, I do.  I have made DCS engines out of a few.

"I have made DCS engines out of a few."

I put an ERR/TMCC Cruise Commander, w/Electrocouplers, in my ICG version. Skipped the sound as there is so little room I didn't want to wrestle with it, and I can live without it. It can be done, I'm sure. (There is a motor in the cab, of course, and the hood on one of these is something like the size of a modern-era HO-scale boxcar.)

So - a command loco for $120 additional. Runs really well. It will run very slowly, as it should.

You mentioned it was "old". Do the motors have flywheels? The last of the pre Bachmann Williams use relays to reverse the motor. With the shell off you could try tapping on the relays when in forward. If this has no effect then look closely at the circuitry between the relays and the motor connectors.

Pete

Pete:  Mine has flywheels;  no relays.  Bought in 2003.

Phil, your E unit should look like this. The white rectangular cubes are the relays.

Pete

No attachment Pete. If reversing the leads to the motor is easy, it would let you determine if the weakness is power delivery or the motor itself. A wrapped hair/fiber at an axle/gear can have the same effect.

Nevermind..it finally showed.

Pete:  I followed your instructions:

1.  Your diagram describes my engine.

2.  Tapping the relays had no effect.

3.  I see nothing suspicious in the circuitry.

4.  The bell rings 14 times [the normal bell sounds] when starting in fwd.  Then it repeats,  and repeats, and....

5.  The bell does NOT work in reverse.

SUMMARY:  Forward is too slow,  with too much bell.  Reverse is normal, sans bell.    What next?

The sound board and reverse board are independent of each other. There may be a short in the  e unit board that prevents the bell from being activated. I would be swapping out the e unit board. If you have another Williams engine you could use that board. 2nd choice is put an ad in the Wanted to buy for a board. Folks that do a lot of upgrades usually have bunch of these. Last choice is to get a new one from Bachmann or Dallee.

You should be able to rule out a mechanical problem by rotating the flywheels on both motors by hand in both directions. Sometimes on engines with a lot of miles the worm gear wears and wants to lock up when trying to go in one direction.

Motors are held on to the trucks by a single screw on the botttom. Easy to pull the motor and check the gears. On a couple of occasions I have had to order new truck assemblies for Williams engines used by a local club that runs their engines long and hard. Williams lists worm gears but they are never in stock.

Pete

Pete:  I really appreciate all the help you've given me.  Here's where it's at:

The gears are fine. I assume that the "e unit board" is the same as the "reverse board".  Correct?

I also assume that the board with the label, "Bell for diesel switcher" is the "sound board"  Right again?

If so, I shall seek the reverse board....or should I try for both?  I have no idea as to their cost or availability.....

Phil, the "bell" board is the sound board. I doubt thats the problem but to make sure just disconnect the red and black wires on that board from the pickup rollers and frame. Then see if it makes a difference with forward movement.

You can get a new e unit from Bachmann but they are pricey. A Dallee unit would also work and they are less. If you are not in a rush, post on the wanted to buy forum you are looking for a Williams E unit for an engine made after 2002. About the time Williams offered the Golden Memories line they offered the E unit in your engine. Older styles may work but may not fit.

Pete

Are the motors tight on their saddles/mounts?

If one of the mounting screws works loose, the motor can tilt slightly when operated. That will increase the drag in one direction, making it run slow. Running in the other direction pulls the motor back into its proper position, allowing it to run faster. There are two teensy-tiny (a technical term) screws that can be accessed by separating the motor from the geared truck. They hold the bottom of the motor to the black saddle, or motor mount. I put a dab of fingernail polish on the threads before tightening them.

Thx, Pete;  will do.

Roy:  The motors are tight.  It must be the E-unit.  I'll shop 4 one on the forum....