Z Stuff DZ 1000 vs. DZ 2500 Switch machine

I have both and if money doesn't bother you buy the 2500s there way better .. I use all mine with there switches even though I run dcs/ legacy 

There are other options as well.  I helped a club with installation of the Micro-Mart Switch Tender switch machines they bought, and they worked out well and are pretty inexpensive.  I also prefer the under the table switch machines. 

Thanks John!

I was just assuming that since Ross only used the DZ stuff it was the preferred switch machine to use with their switches. What machines do you use on your layout?

Money is not the only deciding factor for me. I need to keep an eye on the money spent or do a better job of hiding it from my wife! My focus is ease of installation, reliability, and realism. If you or anyone else has suggestions then please let me know. As I stated above I will be using Ross switches with Gargraves track.

Thanks!

Dave

I have Fastrack switches, so they all come with switch machines.   I liked how these went in, they're under the layout out of sight, and they were cheap and reliable.  GTW, that layout uses Gargraves switches.

I'm sure there are many choices, just thought I'd point out the DZ stuff isn't the only option.

These are dirt simple to wire, you just wire a polarity reversing switch to the motor, it runs into it's stop and just sits there stalled by design and holds the switch points in place.  When you reverse the polarity, back you go.  No electronics, just a low-current motor and a gearbox. 

The Dz-2500 machines have an advantage over the other machines. With the data wire driver they will operate in TMCC command mode without any other add-ons. To operate all other switch machines in TMCC command mode you need to add an SC-2 or SC-1 or an ASC. DZ-2500s only need one wire from the switch to the control panel to control them and they also will report there position to a computer through the data wire driver line. They're more money but are much simpler to wire.

Ron 

Both the DZ1000 & DZ2500 are meant to be attached right at the turnout to the extended switch ties thus they can easily be mounted. The 1000, could be considered a "more basic" machine with a four wire hook-up between it and the controller (hot, common, right and left). The two button controller and be mounted anywhere, near the machine itself or at a control panel. The 1000 and also be "manually thrown" by moving the button on the top of the switch machine. It can also be controlled by TMCC through Lionel SC2 or by a DZ2000 switch controller (wired to the switch machine). The 1000 footprint is a bit larger than the 2500. The 1000 switch action is more of a "snap" type with the point rails quickly and loudly snap from one throw to another.

The 2500's use a slower motion to throw the points (more prototypical). There are more wires, 7 I think, but they all do not have to be used. The 2500's were designed for TMCC operation in mind and do not require any additional electronics to operate in that mode except for the TMCC base and cab1 and the data driver. They can be controlled at the machine itself by pressing a button atop it. They can be wired to a controller for push button operation. They can also be controlled remotely by TMCC. In either case, the DZ1008 relay is not needed unless you to to switch an accessory or power/unpower rails dependent upon which way the points are thrown. ZStuff's web site has a good explanation about all their products.

I have all 2500s right now but have ordered 1000s on two new switches because I have had problems with the 2500s and want to see how the 1000s perform. My main 2500 problem is that they sometimes don't switch on the first try.

As with John, I have had some problems with my earlier 2500's but in all cases, Dennis of Z Stuff has bin most helpful in either recommending a remedy or replacing/updating the unit. He answer's his e-mails and phone calls and offers up solutions to technical problems.

John, on my layout I've found that if I mounted the DZ-2500s with the 2 screws and screwed them down as tight as I could I had problems with switches not throwing all the way. It appears the case gets warped and this impedes the motor operation. When I started to just tighten the screw enough to hold the machine all my problems ceased. After a couple of switches I got the tension right and after 2 years all 16 have been working perfectly with a 12 volt outdoor lighting transformer supplying the power. 

Ron 

Thanks guys. Dennis and I have worked together. He also suggested that I use 15 volts which I've tried. I don't need that many switches so I don't need TMCC control. I am looking forward to trying the 1000s when I get my new switches soon. I will see which works best for me.

I have found the DZ-1008 to be much more difficult to wire. Sometimes the little pins don't go all the way in on the DZ-1000 switch machine.

The wiring for the DZ-1000 is just a three wire circuit from the throw switch to the switch machine. You supply power to the switch, the hot wire and then from the switch you run the two switched wires plus the common to the switch motor.

Not that familiar with the DZ-2500 except to mention that it costs more then the DZ-1000.

I bought my replacement DZ-1000's from Ross Custom switches. At the time DZ Industries would not sell to the public only to a retailer.

Lee Fritz