3rd Rail SD9's are coming

I don't remember the final breakdown, but somewhere between 60% to 70% of the models were done in two rail.  My PRR one is a two rail model.  The SP versions were the most ordered followed in no particular order by the usual suspects of PRR, D&RGW, and a few others.  I'd love to see a picture of how the NS unit turned out.  Along with the Black River and Western model, they are the only two to have ditch lights.

Here my CB&Q/C&S on maiden run after 2 hrs getting the lash up to work right.  Only real issue was fit. One of the 2R inserts wouldn't align right and screw holes were to small. Simple fix. What nice runners. Also note the oscillating  light Thanks Scott. Next in line the Black Widows.

 

Well so much for that. Engine just shorted out. Just sound. No response in either Command or conventional. Will have to  Email Scott. Not happy

Am I the only one not familiar enough with 3rd rail models??? (Even though I live 29 miles away).

Would have never expected them to do accurate stanchions for SD7 and SD9 as they are different, or SP lighting package.  Sure, I saw the Huge Barrel Type and figured that would be used on the Black Widows as well.

How many reservations do they need to do a second run?  Would really like to see SP Red/Gray and SP Kodachrome.

I haven't seen a 2nd run of anything besides the El Capitan cars. 

Is it possible the CNW units had dual cab controls like the N&W did?

Lights working but doesn't run.  Hmmmm.  Both are controlled by the same circuit board.   This is a new motor (needed to fit in the narrow hood)  so hopefully not that 

Most if not all the Black River and Western units were bought by the real Black River and Western folks.  Kudos to them.

Minimum for a rerun?  300.  F7s are in the same boat and after 8 months or so are at ~20% of the requirement, including potential additional roads.  Reruns are just not in the cards for just about anything anymore.  SP bloody nose was offered this time and the number reserved was right around zip.  So for those two about the only way is to buy a couple and have them redecorated.  I don't know if there are any undecorated available.

rdunniii posted:

 

Lights working but doesn't run.  Hmmmm.  Both are controlled by the same circuit board.   This is a new motor (needed to fit in the narrow hood)  so hopefully not that 

.

This comment for me?   Will email on the side Fuel tank hot and rear of  shell Markers work, and sound. Head lights out. The first to go was the oscillating unit

I received my Milwaukee Road SD7 yesterday but wasn't able to open it up until today. This is my first diesel from 3rd Rail and it is a real beauty, thank you Scott and everyone involved with this project. I could only run mine on my 4 foot test track as I'm in the construction stage with my layout at the present. All seem to be working as it should, sounded great, smoke well. I too will be switching out the pilot and coupler as I don't care for the size of the opening the current pilot has. Here is a few pics:

 

 

 

Laidoffsick posted:

I haven't seen a 2nd run of anything besides the El Capitan cars. 

The only second runs I remember were the E7s and possibly the RDCs.

F7's on the Empire Builder but that hasnt happened yet

rdunniii posted:

Is it possible the CNW units had dual cab controls like the N&W did?

 

I cannot speak on the C&NW units, but, for those interested in the Q, the Burlington SD9's had dual controls, with No.6 air brake equipment.

I took a few pictures, Im a bit rusty with the cannon but not bad

 

John. Here ya go. PS3 will easily fit. 

Not sure why youd want to go and put PS3 in a perfectly good loco

Matt Makens posted:

Not sure why youd want to go and put PS3 in a perfectly good loco

Not gonna get into that debate here

DaveJfr0 posted:

So I just found a problem that may affect more than just me.  The factory glued the middle step in the wrong place in all 4 locations on both of my SD9 models.  I bet that others may have this issue too.

I pulled off one step to be sure it could be removed and it came off easily, but left glue residue on the pilot. It will be relatively easy for me to fix cuz I can sand down the residue, spray it black and weather my units, but everyone else may not be so lucky.

Here's a pic to show the problem:   I believe you are correct based on all posted pics so far.

 

 

I'll have to check when I get home but it looks like my CNW units are missing the step all together

The second step is mounted too high giving the appearance of a missing step.

Same issues

Will the Red Caboose GP kits provide a replacement step option? Or are they different? 

 

Gentlemen, Many thanks for posting all the pics of these units!

Dave, those B&LE units are really nice.

I realize that most everyone is going the Kadee route, but were there any issues on an O72 curve with the Electrocouplers?

Also, has anyone tries these units on a curve less than O72?

For what it's worth, the end steps were apparently different on SD7 units, than on the SD9 units. It is also pretty difficult to find accurate photos of SD7, and/or SD9 units with "original" steps, since the FRA mandated "side footboard" requirement of the 1970s. As a result of that FRA mandate, any and all SD and GP units HAD to have their side steps modified in order to comply with the FRA "side footboard" mandate.

DaveJfr0 posted:

LOS - that is a SD7, SD7's had a different stairwell, so no problem there.

Yeah I know my comments didn't show up on my post. I just showed for ref. The spacing is correct, like stated, they just glued the step on the SD9s in the wrong spot. It just needs to get moved down. Should be an easy fix.

That step is still jsut way off and doesnt even look right. I'll add it to the list of sh** to do not likely Ill get to it anytime soon

Plucking them off is real easy 

DaveJfr0 posted:

Laidoffsick posted:

Plucking then off is real easy 

Yes, it surprisingly was too easy to take them off, but cleaning up the residue to the point of where it looks factory new may be tough for some of Scott's customers. I am lucky that these units were not considered brand new in my modeling era.  Does anyone know if Goo-gone takes off paint?

Two words: Scalecoat Paint. Goo gone might attack the paint. You might want to try 1000-1200grit wet/dry sandpaper (wet) on a coffee stirrer to gently sand off the residue, then touch up the paint if necessary. That's what I use to remove/change numbers on MTH locomotive shells. If I ("Mr 10-thumbs") can do it, anyone can.

Anybody have jerky low speed performance?

David Minarik posted:

Anybody have jerky low speed performance?

Yes, as in the infamous Odessy lurch?  Engine that fried had it real bad in reverse.  On other engines At 32 hardly noticeable. At 128 up until about 7 smph.  I found on the unit that's dead, that in reverse it seems to be binding. 

Doug

 

Dave if you are using the Cab2 Legacy remote, change the mode to RC100. I think Cab1 mode is default, then TMCC, then R100. The ERR boards run much better with the Cab2 that way.

My FP7s run great in any of the 3 modes, but I had to change my 4 F units to R100 for the smoothest 4 engine consist.

Well,  since I purchased 3 of these-2 B&LE SD9's and 1 DMIR SD9- all 3 rail models,   I may as well chime in with my observations on my particular models.  (your engine/engines may or may not have correct details to your particular roadname).   Overall,  mine are great looking models and I'm glad that I purchased them.   I'm not going to post pictures as Dave has already posted videos of both of his B&LE and DMIR  engines in operation.   I have not operated mine as of yet.   As far as the details-the biggest thing that I noticed immediately at the front of all my engines is the bracket for the bell mounted on the high,  short hood is completely wrong.   Every photo of every B&LE/DMIR high hood SD9 that I have looked at from the 1960's through the 2000's(including my own books) shows the bracket being welded/fabricated solid plates on both sides,  top,  and rear,  not the 2 arms sticking up with the bell hanging between them that came on my engines.   So I'm disappointed with that.   The other item,  which has already been mentioned in this thread,  is the number/positioning of the steps on the four corners of the engines.   On my particular model roadnames,   from many prototype photos,  there appears to be a step missing.   There should be 5 total steps on mine(counting the deck as the top step).   So,  on the models,   where there appears to be a large gap between the first and second step as has been mentioned earlier in this thread,  on my models,  another step should be added between the first 2 existing steps,  closing the gap and adding the missing step at the same time.   Again,  these are observations on the B&LE/DMIR models.   Anyone else who has these-what do you think?

Nick  

The discussion of engine/road-specific details made me thing of what happens to locomotives over their service lives -- they get modified/wrecked/repaired/upgraded. The reason I mention this is because if you look at an as-delivered photo of a locomotive and compare it to the last [known] photo before retirement/scrapping, they can appear completely different. Examples of things that happen include:

• Relocation of bells
• Relocation of horns
• Rebuilds/upgrades that impact the exterior. Don't get me started on CF7's and SD45B's.
• Addition/removal/relocation of lights (you find a lot of ATSF diesels with the headlights relocated from the top of the cab to the end of the short hood with a cover plate where the lights used to be)
• Cab changes (there are a lot of GP7's/GP9s in service with chopped noses or outright replaced cabs). Look up the original "Beep" on a Santa Fe site.
• Truck change-outs. Santa Fe had a C-30 that had a mixed pair of trucks.
• Addition of roof-top AC units.

The changes aren't necessarily to a specific model, but may apply to a single locomotive during its lifetime.

As to color, lighting when the photo was taking, exposure, paint fading, dirt/weathering, etc. can influence what you see. Don't get me started on CNW Zito Yellow.

I think 3rd rail did a great job on the units and the fact they've even gone for road-specific details is a big plus. Even MTH has done that one some models like the GP38-2's, but nobody's perfect.

Looking at the step issue now. I will review it with our design team and see if we can make some castings of this step, or an etched plate to show the additional step on the models. Sorry guys. Had many people looking at these drawings and no one spotted it. There is always something.

Scott Mann - China

In 3 Rail: If you have low speed jerky performance, try turning off the SPEED CONTROL.

[AUX1],[0], [AUX1], [0], [BRAKE] - 32 Step Speed Control
[AUX1],[0], [AUX1], [0], [BOOST] - 100 Step Speed Control
[AUX1], [0], [AUX1], [BRAKE], [7] ,[BRAKE]- Speed Control Turned OFF
[AUX1], [0], [AUX1], [BRAKE], [9] ,[BRAKE]- Speed Control Turned ON
For more information on Electric Railroad: www.electricrr.com

     Received my Milwaukee SD7 and CNW SD9 Monday and I think they're terrific.

     The step issue doesn't bother me, didn't even notice it, but I understand how others would feel differently,

     I did have trouble with one unit stuttering around and discovered the electrical wipers on the wheels were not making good contact.  A small tweak with needle nose pliers fixed it right up.

     Really like the sound of the horns and maybe someday will add tmcc to take advantage of the other sounds and maybe a better cruise function.

     All in all I think Scott and the crew did a great job.

                                                                                Dan

     Before I go, would putting in a battery do anything for conventional running?

Some crappy cell  shots of my Demo SD7. I'm thrilled with it.

GG1 4877 posted:

Some crappy cell  shots of my Demo SD7. I'm thrilled with it.

Well I'll be darned! I didn't realize you guys were going to produce BOTH road numbers of the EMD demonstrator units. I would have preferred the 991, as it was the "east coast" demo, while the first unit, the 990 went west. Guess I'll stick with the 990, that arrived two days ago.

Hot Water posted:

GG1 4877 posted:

Some crappy cell  shots of my Demo SD7. I'm thrilled with it.

Well I'll be darned! I didn't realize you guys were going to produce BOTH road numbers of the EMD demonstrator units. I would have preferred the 991, as it was the "east coast" demo, while the first unit, the 990 went west. Guess I'll stick with the 990, that arrived two days ago.

Jack, I thought you knew?  If you want to do a trade, I'm not concerned on the number.  Just send me a note!

I got a quick response from our Design team here. They have photos of the steps that were modeled. Once they show me this, I can't fault them for it.

how bout some extra steps, can you get em in cnw green?

David Minarik posted:

John. Here ya go. PS3 will easily fit. 

Thanks Dave.  And thanks for chatting with me on the phone today. Conversion to PS 3 is now on my list.

And.... on the SD9s the 2nd step is too high. That was a factory error, design and our revierers got it right. We will make new steps (the individual step that one can glue in). The step section on the pilot is part of the pilot, all soldered together. That's what I know. Scott - China

suzukovich posted:

Christmas is early .....

 OK, so how about some night shots to illuminate all those Christmas lights!

 

 

sdmann posted:

And.... on the SD9s the 2nd step is too high. That was a factory error, design and our revierers got it right. We will make new steps (the individual step that one can glue in). The step section on the pilot is part of the pilot, all soldered together. That's what I know. Scott - China

I was looking through the drawings to find one the same as built and they all looked correct to me.   What is strange is the exact same thing happened to Atlas on the GP60s.

Hot Water posted:

GG1 4877 posted:

Some crappy cell  shots of my Demo SD7. I'm thrilled with it.

Well I'll be darned! I didn't realize you guys were going to produce BOTH road numbers of the EMD demonstrator units. I would have preferred the 991, as it was the "east coast" demo, while the first unit, the 990 went west. Guess I'll stick with the 990, that arrived two days ago.

Wwwhhhhhaaaaattttt!  I remember noting at the time that there would be 10 of each number.  To make it easier to make the minimum I hoped demo fans would order both numbers; like me .

suzukovich posted:

David Minarik posted:

Anybody have jerky low speed performance?

 

 

Funny thing. On a whim I oiled with Labelle the axles where they met the side frames. Ran for awhile. This morning  when started up, in 128/100  There was no jerking of the SP SD9/7 lash up at 1 Smph.  Still had slight issue in revers with the SD7 which is the trailing unit. Will oil it again and see what happens.

You just need to stretch their legs to give em a bit more hitch in their gittiup

Matt Makens posted:

You just need to stretch their legs to give em a bit more hitch in their gittiup

Did that, put down track in my drive way and hooked up my wife's van. Neighbor thought I was crazy until it pulled the van 10ft.

rdunniii posted:

sdmann posted:

And.... on the SD9s the 2nd step is too high. That was a factory error, design and our revierers got it right. We will make new steps (the individual step that one can glue in). The step section on the pilot is part of the pilot, all soldered together. That's what I know. Scott - China

I was looking through the drawings to find one the same as built and they all looked correct to me.   What is strange is the exact same thing happened to Atlas on the GP60s.

What was the issue with the Atlas GP60 steps, I have a CSX 2rail version and have never picked up on a step problem, just curious.

breezinup posted:

suzukovich posted:

Christmas is early .....

 OK, so how about some night shots to illuminate all those Christmas lights!

 

 

This is what you wanted. 

 

Thirdrail Great Northern SD9 model. IMO nice paint.  Set as cab forward.

Mike CT posted:

Thirdrail Great Northern SD9 model. IMO nice paint.  Set as cab forward.

Nice. It was a tuff choice between the GN units and The SP Black Widows.   It should of been set long hood forward. Cab forward was after the merger 

More SD9  "selfies". My PRR in 2 rail. The color is a lot darker than the cell phone shots would make it appear.

Jonathan,

Thank you for the photos.  I have yet to take mine out of the box and check it out.  Tonite,maybe......

Norm

Did anyone reserve the UP SD7 version or were there insufficient reservations to get it  produced ?

OK, besides Doug, how many of you have been able to get that Kadee "2-Rail scale pilot insert" to fit properly?

hibar posted:

Did anyone reserve the UP SD7 version or were there insufficient reservations to get it  produced ?

I took delivery of two.

Other than having to enlarge a hole no issues at all.

 

Hot Water posted:

OK, besides Doug, how many of you have been able to get that Kadee "2-Rail scale pilot insert" to fit properly?

No problem getting them to fit.  Bend the hoses out a bit.

David Minarik posted:

Hot Water posted:

OK, besides Doug, how many of you have been able to get that Kadee "2-Rail scale pilot insert" to fit properly?

No problem getting them to fit.  Bend the hoses out a bit.

The "hoses" do not appear to be the problem. I've been filing on the sides of the brass "scale" insert/adapter and still can not get it to fit properly in place in order to insert the two small mounting screws. I'll get back to it tomorrow.

Suzukovich, nice video. I love that song too. "I'm a rocker dude, thru and thru. Here's some of my favorite bands, AC/DC, Van Halen, not..." Joe Dirt!!!

So what exactly is the deal with the step, are they missing a step or is it just in the wrong place?

On the SD9's the step was placed in the wrong location by the factory.  It is correct on all the drawings but was installed too high.  Scott is making replacement steps for anyone who asks for them or Dave has already posted how he repaired his.  The SD7 is different in that as delivered they didn't have true steps, but cutouts for someone's feet. 

Ill have to pop one off and see how it looks, maybe the glue residue wont be so bad or some CNW green will cover it well. I didnt even notice it until somebody said something but I'm not that hard on details now I kinda wish nobody said anything

GG1 4877 posted:

On the SD9's the step was placed in the wrong location by the factory.  It is correct on all the drawings but was installed too high.  Scott is making replacement steps for anyone who asks for them or Dave has already posted how he repaired his.   

Hi Jonathan,

So,  the proper procedure for obtaining the 12 missing steps on my 2 B&LE/1 DMIR SD9's would be to email Scott directly and ask for them?   Thanks for your help.

Nick

Nick, I'd send an email to Scott. He's in China now so he might respond at some odd hours but he will respond. 

Are the steps missing or merely in the wrong spot? Wrong placement is the issue that we've seen so far.

Jonathan,

As I noted in one of my previous posts here,   on my particular roadnames,  the B&LE(especially) and DMIR there is a step missing.   Prototype engine photos show nearly all of them with 5 steps(counting the engine deck/walkway as the top step).   So,  I will just add the replacement step in the large gap between steps 1 and 2(working from the bottom up).   I'm glad Scott takes the time to listen and take care of his customers when situations like this occurs and I will send Scott an email tonight or tomorrow.   Thanks for your work and help on these engines.   Now about that bell bracket

Nick   

suzukovich posted:

Christmas is early   Getting ready to install Kadees.

 

CB&Q/C &S SD9s

 

SP SD9/SD7

 

 

Beautiful units!  Do the CB&Q versions have the slogan "Everywhere West" on the other side of the long hood?

 

RTR Mark

We actually have SD7 UP in 2R and 3R available to buy. Email me if you are interested. Scott

Ready-to-Run Mark posted:

suzukovich posted:

Christmas is early   Getting ready to install Kadees.

 

CB&Q/C &S SD9s

 

SP SD9/SD7

 

 

Beautiful units!  Do the CB&Q versions have the slogan "Everywhere West" on the other side of the long hood?

 

RTR Mark

Yes.  

sdmann posted:

We actually have SD7 UP in 2R and 3R available to buy. Email me if you are interested. Scott

Were these units delivered as pictured in your original SD7/9 announcement ad of UP model with vent pipe ,  pipe on rear air grilles and winterization hatch?

The original picture was a stand in.

Here is a picture of what we produced in UP

Thanks Scott for bringing us these beautiful models!

The following is a set of photos comparing my new 3rd Rail SD9 alongside an MTH version.  There are also photos including an Atlas GP9 (with road specific detail, i.e. Pyle Gyralite) alongside a similar MTH.

Not long ago, we had a good discussion asking "does road specific detail matter?"  To many of us, I say it does.

Enjoying my long-awaited accurate SP SD9. Looks great--still runs a little rough in reverse and doesn't like one of my Scaletrax #4 switches (stalls on the straight section for some reason), but I'll get to work figuring those bugs out shortly. Wonderful engine--very grateful to Scott Mann & Co for pursuing this project and executing it so well!

Tony

Any word on if these units can negotiate a curve less than O72?

Many thanks

EMD posted:

Any word on if these units can negotiate a curve less than O72?

Many thanks

060 is smallest you can go using the lobster claw couplers.  Like Doug said earlier 072 is due to the fixed pilots and kadees.

Suzukovich, Many thank  for the reply.

suzukovich posted:

EMD posted:

Any word on if these units can negotiate a curve less than O72?

Many thanks

060 is smallest you can go using the lobster claw couplers.  Like Doug said earlier 072 is due to the fixed pilots and kadees.

I was in touch with Scott Mann during the production process to determine if the 3R SD9 would negotiate 054 curves. He let me know (while he was in China testing the models, no less) that the 3R version handled the Atlas 054 test track curves. I use solely Scaletrax on my layout and, after about 10 days of experience, can report that the SD9 is able to run through 054 curves (and the curved segment of 054 switches) without difficulty. Just to see how far it could go, I ran the SD9 through a small even-tighter section of approximately 042 curved flextrack--it negotiated that as well, though that's clearly the limit. This six-axle engine doesn't look great going though those tight curved, but it works. I am impressed.

I just received one of the left-over UP SD-7s and am really glad I treated myself to this locomotive. It is just gorgeous! However, I am having trouble getting it to accept any engine address except 1. I'm using the Legacy system and when I follow the instructions in the manual the engine doesn't take the new address. When I follow the instructions in the engine's manual the only address it will take is 1. I have the switch set to program. What am I doing wrong?

I'm also getting jerky slow speed performance (control is set to R100) and saw Scott's earlier post advising to turn off the speed control. I'm not sure how to do this with the Legacy controller. The instructions in the manual seem to be pointed to the Cab1 remote. I'm hoping that the slower speeds will improve after a break-in period.

Joe

The Duluth, Missabe & Iron Range SD9 is going to need some logo decals, because a part protrudes through the MISSABE logos on the short hood. If only the logo would have placed in an entirely flat spot somewhere else on the short hood. I have to make decals, or have somebody custom make decals, since there are no MISSABE diesel decals available. The part did not protrude on the real DM&IR SD9s, so it has to be removed with a sprue cutter, but that will ruin the logo. Then a custom made decal can be placed on top.  I was waiting to find a DM&IR SD9, now I have to correct this.

 

Andrew

Here are my photos of the Duluth, Missabe & Iron Range SD9 diesel loco.

The Circular Missabe emblem looks smaller on the real hoods. 

Perhaps the circular herald could not be duplicated any smaller.

 

Andrew

The herald diameter looks pretty good compared with this photo.

 

The herald size was smaller in the original paint scheme.

The later circular herald looks twice as large.

My Missabe SD9 model does not have diagonal stripes along the side-sill. That will have to be added with decals if I want to have yellow stripes.

Andrew

The DM&IR SD9 #110 was one of the first built in 1955 as a demonstrator, sent to B&LE, and among the first to be scrapped.

If there is a second run I would have to get a much later road number from #160 to #165. The graphics feature the arrow. 

 

Andrew

New power freshly delivered from EMD arrived on the High Plains Route this week. Ahem.. I mean Sunset . 

Erik C Lindgren posted:

New power freshly delivered from EMD arrived on the High Plains Route this week. Ahem.. I mean Sunset . 

Sales were provided by Caboose Stop Hobbies EMD sales division 

 

http://caboosehobbies.com

Erik C Lindgren posted:

New power freshly delivered from EMD arrived on the High Plains Route this week. Ahem.. I mean Sunset . 

I see you finally seen the light.  

 

Spent the last few days modifying my SD9:

• Converted to PS3 (used a RailKing SD9 as the donor).  Fairly straightforward,  but you have to make sure no wires overhang the sides of the PS3 board, and alas, there is simply no room that I could find for the smoke unit
• Reversed the motor leads, so it starts long hood forward, per Pennsy practice
• Swaped headlight leads, so the long hood headlights light up first
• Reversed the engineer and crew, so they are looking in the direction the loco is going
• Fixed the steps. (Just broke them off and reglued)
• Weathered, using Prismacolors Soft Core pencils per Michael Gross’s article in the latest MRH, as well as with an air brush, some washes, and some pan pastels.  These would be fairly new in the era I model, so they would be fairly clean

This has to be one of the smoothest running and quietest locos I own.  Slow speed operation is excellent, and it also has quite a lot of pulling power. And with twelve wheel pick up (This is a 2 rail model, of course), if this thing stalls, its your trackwork.

John Sethian posted:

Spent the last few days modifying my SD9:

• Converted to PS3 (used a RailKing SD9 as the donor).  Fairly straightforward,  but you have to make sure no wires overhang the sides of the PS3 board, and alas, there is simply no room that I could find for the smoke unit
• Reversed the motor leads, so it starts long hood forward, per Pennsy practice
• Swaped headlight leads, so the long hood headlights light up first
• Reversed the engineer and crew, so they are looking in the direction the loco is going
• Fixed the steps. (Just broke them off and reglued)
• Weathered, using Prismacolors Soft Core pencils per Michael Gross’s article in the latest MRH, as well as with an air brush, some washes, and some pan pastels.  These would be fairly new in the era I model, so they would be fairly clean

This has to be one of the smoothest running and quietest locos I own.  Slow speed operation is excellent, and it also has quite a lot of pulling power. And with twelve wheel pick up (This is a 2 rail model, of course), if this thing stalls, its your trackwork.

Good to know conversion will work. Question.

What size tach tape did you use?

How did you secure the tach reader?

Did you use the headlights from the RK or were you able to use the ones that came with the engine?

 

Suzokovich

30 mm tach tape.  Got really lucky, as the RK and SS SD9s have the same overall gear ratio of 10.5:1

The Tachreader was secured using the bracket from the RK model.  I cut it out by removing the radial spokes,  leaving just the holder and the about 200 degrees of the circumferential clamp.  The clamp was used to locate it the thing.  The holder is fixed to the motor with Goo and Gorilla Glue Super Glue Gel.  I set my tach reader tape spacing to .060"

I used all the lighting (headlights, number board, cab light) that came with the Sunset engine. 

Special Thanks to Dave Minarik, who several pages earlier in this thread opened one up and showed me the PS 3 would fit.  It does, but as I said above, there is no room for any wires outside the PS3 board.  Incidentally, I was able to use two convienient tapped holes in the chassis to mount the PS3 board mount.  That, the gear ratio, and the lighting compatibility is almost as if Scott planned it that way 

Here is another photo..I blended the weathering better.  And fixed the fence!

 

 

Nice John

thanks for sharing. 

Nice work John, the light weathering sure makes all the details pop.

John,

That looks great!  I thought I might want to convert to PS3 but I have been getting used to the ERR.  

Did you happen to take any photos of the inside with the PS3 installed?

Thanks,

Dave

David Minarik posted:

John,

That looks great!  I thought I might want to convert to PS3 but I have been getting used to the ERR.  

Did you happen to take any photos of the inside with the PS3 installed?

Thanks,

Dave

Here you go:

 I kept the smoke and smoke volume control pots because they have wires in common, and I did not know if I would compromise the sound if I cut them out.   I am an amateur on this.   Also, I used the RK speaker, it fit right under the Sunset speaker clamp ring.  I was originally concerned because there was no room for any kind of sound baffle. But Sunset has designed it so the floor and end walls of the cab interlock with the side walls of the shell to form a tight baffle.

For what it's worth, I really like the sound of this unit.   As well as the way it runs.

And David, thanks for taking the time to talk to me on the phone about this!

Any time John!   The install looks nice.

Thanks for posting the photos!  

Dave

 

Video...video....video!!!

Had a little time this weekend to run the SD9. The previously-mentioned problem with the Scaletrax #4 switch seems to be corrected, though there is still just a slight flicker when going through the switch--no big deal. One of these days I hope to get the SD9 weathered like several of you on the forum have done so nicely. But, in the meantime, I've included a couple of recent shots with the SD9 and the rest of the team.

Tony 

TWebSP posted:

Had a little time this weekend to run the SD9. The previously-mentioned problem with the Scaletrax #4 switch seems to be corrected, though there is still just a slight flicker when going through the switch--no big deal. One of these days I hope to get the SD9 weathered like several of you on the forum have done so nicely. But, in the meantime, I've included a couple of recent shots with the SD9 and the rest of the team.

Tony 

Nice.  Like the backdrops and how you blended the trees into it.