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I had to buy a manual O-100 and add a DZ-1000

 

should be no issue

but it’s inconsistent on the through route..

the divergent track aligns with out fail. 

On the bench, I’m getting power for the track and the DZ-1000 from the same source-A Z-1000

will I need separate power?

 

I usually run my Gargraves manual-

and my Auto-aligning turnouts are MTH. 
So this is a new chapter in my train story. 

thanks
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Original Post

I think you are saying the anti-derail (more common term) feature fails to throw the turnout to go straight.   At all? Moves partially? Or just not consistent?

If it is consistent with the switch being used, I'd look at the track triggering for an issue. It could be dirty wheels, track or even the traction tire not completing the circuit...?  You don't say how you detect/trigger them.  If consistently missing both ways, look to wiring, connections, and the turnout itself.

You shouldn't have power issues really; but note a heavy track draw may weaken what is available for the accessories constants. E.g. you'd get less flicker (imagine a lamp vs turnout coil) from two power supplies vs one where track and accessories share output, even if it's hi-output (there are exceptions... basically some supplies are actually 2 supplies in one package.)

 So if you are pushing the Zs limits that could be it

This started out to be my last railroad..that’s why some is painted white-it was to be Winter/Spring-snow still on the ground, but things growing green.  

Then the wife says, “I want to move“

And she got my eager agreement by saying, “And you need a stand alone building for your Wood Working-which is my retirement job, to supplement retirement funds-and buy trains🚂

 

But, Fate decided to get involved-and things keep getting the way-

So, we’re staying here for at least 4 more years-hence the reason to add more yards  

 

@Adriatic posted:

You might want to extend that trigger rail too.  (for a temporary trigger to test with, look at Marx. A copper strip or oval with a wire and two sided tape ,folded over a rail) . (WorkswWorks well Robert Grossman Co. among others)

 

yeah-the DZ-1000 instructions appear to show cutting the rail on the turn out-I’m not damaging a $52 turnout  

Since the two stock rails are isolated, I just wired them  

I get the theory of operation-the wheels “short” or momentarily close the contact on the DZ-1000, which simulates the action of the button being pressed on the DZ-1002P  

I reversed the car-now I get inconsistency again  

 

That's what's kinda cool about the Marx "dots" & strips. They fit in tight spots.

You don't need to have the "real" ones. Electric tape and a folded copper scrap with presoldered wire works well. (the tape goes between dot & rail to insulate.  Once you have the right spot or strip length you can better mod any track with a well planned cut and pull them right off. (clean any goo)

Some wheels just plain don't like tripping the antiderail. Maybe a swap?

I’ve always built my Roads so I can follow the train

manually operate turnouts 

But, this multi-room design doesn’t make it feasible 

I have two Ys

And when this section is built, will increase “through train” connectivity to 1 of 2 reverse loops.

This will give me 5 point to point yards. 
A lot of switching operations 😁

 

The two trigger rails are very close at the frog.  I had to insert a small piece of styrene to isolate left and right.  You may have to remove the rail spikes at the frog, if they touch.  (Ross switch pictured.)  

Switch motors, DZ1000's sometimes can be temperamental when new. Loosen the mounting screws.

Last edited by Mike CT

From the Gargraves website.   DZ-1002 is the standard momentary push button.  DZ-1000, switch motor.  Switch motors are designed to be wired, Left and Right, with common accessory (and, or track common), apply-ing AC+ to the  center terminal of the switch motor.  This allows a metal wheel set, that touches the isolated rail sections, and the other outside rail, to trigger the movement.  Auto-non-derail.

 Same applies, Ross or other switches.  My switches are Atlas, wired similar, using Atlas 6924 relay boards.   

Have fun, Mike CT.  

 

 

Last edited by Mike CT

Model A guy

i just had the turnout on the workbench testing it, before installing. 

I had power from a Z-1000, for track and DZ-1000...

Since I’m adding a yard and a reversing loop by happenstance, I’m Thinking I mighty try to see if I can run this through my DCS, which means I need to buy an AIU. 

I just added the turnout into the mainline, and Track power is All good 

now, once I add the line from the Upper West Yard-I’ll see if I need to add separate power to the turnout. 


thanks

 

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