Skip to main content

I plan to use a good bit of Gargraves flex for my curves. I have experience with flex track in smaller scales, and don't think I'll have too much trouble with Gargraves. I have access to both the "belly" and "water tank" methods ;-) My question is regarding the last few inches if the track. Is there any issues getting that last few inches curved properly? How can you best avoid getting slightly straight(er) ends at the joints between rail sections?

It's the hardest part, and of course you'll be trimming the rails at the end.  I suspect that I probably didn't get much of mine "perfect", but it works well and looks good, so I'm happy. I just walked around and sighted down some of the curves, I think I may have done better than I expected with the ends.  That being said, it can't be that difficult if I did it.

I use the DRILL MASTER 6 in. 5.5 Amp Cut-Off Saw from Harbor Freight to square the ends, I bought it when it was on sale for $30.  The trick with this tool is to cut slow and don't force it, and you get pretty clean cuts that require minimal dressing up.

Attachments

Images (1)
  • mceclip0
@G3750 posted:

Trainman48,

I think the stomach approach is sketchy at best.

What I have found to actually work, repeatably and reliably, is to gently and gradually bend the track around a water heater tank.  By varying the track's horizontal angle to the tank, you can get nearly any curve you like.

IMG_1630

George

Thanks George!

I am going to run down the basement and try that right now.

=============================================================================

Oh No !!

20210914_190843



John

Attachments

Images (1)
  • 20210914_190843

I did the same thing that John did many years ago with excellent results.  I made templates out of plywood with the different sizes.  I would make the template smaller than the actual curve to allow for spring back and they always spring back to some degree and you want your final product not to have any stress on it. So I did maybe an 065 for an 072 curve and if the spring back didn't open all the way to 072, I helped it a little and at that point it would stay there forever. Mark your sizes on the template pieces.   JP   

I've had limited success using most of the techniques suggested. The WD works great loosening up the ties, but you have to let it sink in for a while, and then work the ties prior to bending. And I found out after putting a few small kinks in the track that the ties need to be evenly distributed. So I had to keep rearranging them as I proceeded.

I started out using the "belly" technique, as suggested, but the bends weren't evenly forming. However, I found the water heater technique works great! So thank you all for your valuable help. Other than that, I'm sure I would have ruined the track.

Trainmasters TV had a number of segments regarding getting flextrack to conform and hold specific radii and different shapes and they did it on the benchwork.  I believe the segments are called "Back to the Basement"  Miles was demonstrating using a block type tool machined for fitting the rails.  He noted they were available in all scales up through "G".

Just a thought.

Add Reply

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×