Building a LIRR Morris Park Shop Switcher- 7/18/24- Decals......

@452 Card posted:

Bob,

You are right on track by weathering the unit. I hosteled at MP in the mid-seventies when I was an engineer trainee. The "Dinky" we used was the modern equivalent of what you are building, and they never got as much attention as the over the road equipment. I don't think they ever got washed! Shiny here is really not applicable, I think.

Wow, that's so cool. I have plans to convert a K-line Plymouth into the Dinky one day too.

@Scotie posted:

Bob,

Inspired by you thread I've ordered one for myself. Will be following your detailing for information. Will try to build one in two rail.

Glad to provide the inspiration Scotie. Studying the photos of the prototype, I noticed that it had 3rd rail pickups to power it. I had thought that it was just battery powered.

Keep us posted on your build.

Thanks guys.

Bob

Looks and sounds good, Bob!  I agree, the 'normal' sound settings always need tamed for me!! 

@Mark Boyce posted:

Looks and sounds good, Bob!  I agree, the 'normal' sound settings always need tamed for me!! 

Thanks Mark. It's much louder when the speaker is under the shell of the engine too, so the volume control should help. Seems that Lionel didn't think it was needed when they developed Lionchief. It was added on all later renditions.

Bob

Not super exciting but I made the foot boards for the pilots yesterday. The steps are brass and I soldered brass wire to them. I'm kinda stuck until the set of jeweler drill bits and pin vice I ordered arrive.

Bob

They look good, Bob!  There’s always another tool that needs purchased it seems!

@Mark Boyce posted:

They look good, Bob!  There’s always another tool that needs purchased it seems!

So true Mark. I have all the big tools that I could ever need or want that can drill all the big holes I want (up to 12" diameter in concrete)....this little tiny stuff is a new frontier for me.

Bob

PS Now I need to order a set of those brass bar clamps too.....

Hardwick & Sons https://hardwickandsons.com/  Small Solid Brass Bar Clamp ~ 12" Long - 300 mm      The total bill for 4 of them including shipping was $56.05

Started installing the brass today. Grab bars, foot boards and some electrical gear are done. Need to get more styrene angle so I can finish the pilots.

Movin' along.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

Started installing the brass today. Grab bars, foot boards and some electrical gear are done. Need to get more styrene angle so I can finish the pilots.

Movin' along.

Bob

Bob, that is looking nice, great job! The detail makes all the difference.

Gene

Bob, that is looking quite nice!  Well done!

@Genemed @Mark Boyce
Thanks gents. The pin vice and drills are great. Don't know why I didn't get a set sooner.

Bob

I haven’t used mine a lot, but they certainly come in handy in certain circumstances.

That's looking great!

Nice work Bob! Like it a lot! Tiny tools are a miniaturist's friend.
Btw, Micromark catalog is quite a dream book!
looking fwd to further episodes of this Morris Park Shop Switcher.

Bob the shop switcher looks fantastic.  And as far as tools go Leroof is correct about tiny tools for us modelers but like Mark said some come in handy only occasionally, kinda like that 12"core drill of yours.

Two questions about the build. First what's the plan for plastic angle on the pilots? I think they look pretty good as-is, very industrial looking. Second what is the brass piece in the photo below?  Makes me think of an electric meter.

@coach joe posted:

Bob the shop switcher looks fantastic.  And as far as tools go Leroof is correct about tiny tools for us modelers but like Mark said some come in handy only occasionally, kinda like that 12"core drill of yours.

Two questions about the build. First what's the plan for plastic angle on the pilots? I think they look pretty good as-is, very industrial looking. Second what is the brass piece in the photo below?  Makes me think of an electric meter.

Joe- the piece is supposed to be a fuse box- at least that's what it was called on Precision Scale's site. It will all be painted black like the prototype so I will not stand out so much. I'm basing the detailing on the 1:1 pictures.

I have a set of cut levers for the couplers that I found among my spare parts. They are plastic and very delicate so I'm going to mount them to the styrene and then attach to the engine body. The 2 pilots actually need to be removable so I don't want to complicate assembly/ disassembly more than necessary.

@Leroof @Darrell- thanks for the comments. I'm sliding down a steep slope when it comes to building engines......

Thanks

@RSJB18 posted:

@Leroof @Darrell- thanks for the comments. I'm sliding down a steep slope when it comes to building engines......

Sliding down a steep slope and it isn’t an ice covered A-frame, Bob!  😱🥶

What’s next??? 🚂

Time for an update.

I've been plugging away at my project. I've added the details including the cut levers previously mentioned and cab steps. I figured it was time to put the engine together and give it a run on the layout. All went well, I need to find a better spot for the speaker to get the sound out of the frame better but that will wait until paint is done and final assembly happens. I'm thinking about adding a cab light too.

Bob

Coming along really nicely Bob.

Looking great!

Outstanding work Bob! I just caught up. Your eye for detail is terrific. Thank you for the step by step. It sounds and runs really well. Keep it up.

Andy

@Steamfan77 posted:

Outstanding work Bob! I just caught up. Your eye for detail is terrific. Thank you for the step by step. It sounds and runs really well. Keep it up.

Andy

Thanks Andy. The project is on hold until the weather allows for more panting. I did the underside with the first coat of black on that 60 deg Saturday a couple weeks ago, but I'll wait to do the outside until it gets warmer.

Bob

I get it Bob, the results are what counts. Don’t want to spoil your paint job by rushing the process.
Andy

WOW! Three months since I updated this project thread.

As predicted, it's been a while since I did any work on this project. I had started painting the body over the winter as time and the weather permitted. I finally got the final coat of black on the body last night. Next up after it cures for a few days will be a coat of matte satin.

I'll work on final assembly after.

Bob

Excellent

The paint looks sharp, Bob!

@RSJB18 posted:

WOW! Three months since I updated this project thread.

As predicted, it's been a while since I did any work on this project. I had started painting the body over the winter as time and the weather permitted. I finally got the final coat of black on the body last night. Next up after it cures for a few days will be a coat of matte satin.

I'll work on final assembly after.

Bob

Very nice Bob, I was wondering what happened to this project.🤔

Gene

Thanks guys.

Gene- yea it's been a while between other projects and outside work.

Hopefully it won't be another 3 months till my next update.

Bob

Very nice work Bob.

MELGAR

@RSJB18 posted:

Bob

Bob, will you do any sanding before the matte coat? If so, what do you use?

George

@GeoPeg posted:

Bob, will you do any sanding before the matte coat? If so, what do you use?

George

I don't think so George. I did some light sanding before priming it.

I don't want to risk messing up the grills that are on the sides. I mentioned previously that I may weather it since it banged around a busy shop and had it's share of bumps and bruises.

If any experts want to weigh in with some advice I'll listen.

Bob

Bob, yes I can see not trying sanding it for the fine detail sake.  You want this model to look like it has worked hard.  I’ve never weathered an engine because I’m too impressed with the sharp graphics and “showroom” finish.  I got pretty good at getting a glossy smooth finish on 1:24th scale car models, but never “dirtied” anything up. 😃

Bob that little yard goat is coming along very nicely!  I can't wait to see the finished project.  What's the "bar" on the roof?

@Mark Boyce posted:

Bob, yes I can see not trying sanding it for the fine detail sake.  You want this model to look like it has worked hard.  I’ve never weathered an engine because I’m too impressed with the sharp graphics and “showroom” finish.  I got pretty good at getting a glossy smooth finish on 1:24th scale car models, but never “dirtied” anything up. 😃

I've tried weathering once or twice with mixed results. I bought a set of powders which are a little tricky to work with. The worst part is the clear matte eats them for lunch and it doesn't look the same after spraying. I've haven't used pastels since grammar school art class..... I need to watch some videos to learn better techniques to get it right.

I went back and here's Pat's @harmonyards post about sanding models.

@coach joe- the prototype has vents along the roof edge, probably to allow heat to escape when the windows are closed.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

WOW! Three months since I updated this project thread.

As predicted, it's been a while since I did any work on this project. I had started painting the body over the winter as time and the weather permitted. I finally got the final coat of black on the body last night. Next up after it cures for a few days will be a coat of matte satin.

I'll work on final assembly after.

Bob

Looking forward to seeing your completed results on SW SAT!

Bob, I know what you mean about the matte finish eating pastels.  I have not dull coat sealed any of the last few buildings I have built for that reason.

@Mark Boyce posted:

Bob, I know what you mean about the matte finish eating pastels.  I have not dull coat sealed any of the last few buildings I have built for that reason.

Train Guy Ken recommended this for decals. Maybe it would be less aggressive on paint as well. “Just remember to use Rust-Oleum 2x Matte Clear after you apply the new decals, Krylon or other brand clearcoats might damage them.”

@coach joe posted:

What's the "bar" on the roof?

I think that it's some kind of radiator or ventilation. Not all of the locomotives had them, and it seems to be a retrofit of sorts-- photos taken from the 1940s onwards show them, but they're absent on prewar photos.

@pennsyfan posted:

“Just remember to use Rust-Oleum 2x Matte Clear after you apply the new decals, Krylon or other brand clearcoats might damage them.”

Although I have never tried it on pastels or chalk weathering, I do find that Rust-Oleum is a bit less likely to crackle the base coat than Krylon. I'm not sure where the classic "Dulcote" lay in the spectrum, but I've observed that Krylon aerosols are very hot and quick-setting, which seems to be more aggressive.

@coach joe- The LIRR Trains are Fun website has several photos of the A-1. As Ken said- the vent's were added later.

2 pix -1932 without, and 1939 with, put a date range to the change.

Bob

Nice progress on that switcher Bob!

Kyle - A Fellow "Rail-Nerd"