Clear Coat for models?

Ricky, this will depend on what type of finish you are looking for. Obviously the easiest go to rattle can clearcoat would be Testors Dullcote....you’ll need to test compatibility of any products on some scrap, so you don’t ruin your finished models....there’s plenty of other options as well, and I’m sure others will chime in. If I’m applying Dullcote, I use the type that comes in a jar, and reduce it to my satisfaction, and apply it with an airbrush or small spray gun....hope that helps.....Pat

 

...this will depend on what type of finish you are looking for.

Very true!  I stopped using Dullcoat except for when it was really required and moved to a rattle can of Matte Clear from Rustoleum.  One thing to check on is compatibility of decals or whatever other type of lettering you've applied with the finishing coat.

Yes, you do need to clearcoat in order to protect the decals.
Before you do, make sure that the decals are setting down completely and there are no air bubbles trapped between the decal and the surface of the model, especially where there is clear decal (like between letters). If there is still air in there it will show up looking like silver. The way that you can tell is to brush some plain water over the decal and it will show up silvery. If there is any silvering, use a setting solution and lightly prick the area with a sharp needle so that the solution gets in there to make the decal set down.

Hi,

Ok. Thanks. Is it 100% necessary to apply it? Thanks. 

Ricky

Hi,

Ok. Thanks. 

Ricky

I am with Jim - make sure the decal is well attached.  The surface should be glossy for decal application.

I use "Future Floor Wax" to seal them - still glossy - and then dull coat over that.  Some dull coats eat the base paint - I almost lost a gorgeous T1 paint/decal job by spraying Scalecoat clear over Scalecoat Brunswick.  The "Future" would have stopped that.

I had the most success with Floquil Dullcote - but it absolutely had to be thinned with Dio-Sol.  Lacquer thinner just made it lumpy.  And go easy over chalk weathering, or you will lose the chalk.

Dullcote (or Glosscote if you need shiny) only for me, after problems with hardware store Big Cans and compatibility - why ruin a job trying to save $1.98?

Yes - an overspray is necessary in terms of good modeling - and protection of your money and labor. Why wouldn't you?

This question gets asked occasionally. Still Testors Dullcote/Glosscote. Never had a compatibility issue. I don't know this, but it also seems that the small cans for modelers have nozzles that spray a bit finer, and the pressure is less for the smaller job. As it should be. The Big Cans are designed for lawn furniture and HGTV network shows.

(If a truly fine-spray nozzle was put on Testors paint cans, they would eliminate airbrushes for all but the most fussy jobs; it would be a boon for weathering.) 

D500 posted:

Dullcote (or Glosscote if you need shiny) only for me, after problems with hardware store Big Cans and compatibility - why ruin a job trying to save $1.98?

Yes - an overspray is necessary in terms of good modeling - and protection of your money and labor. Why wouldn't you?

This question gets asked occasionally. Still Testors Dullcote/Glosscote. Never had a compatibility issue. I don't know this, but it also seems that the small cans for modelers have nozzles that spray a bit finer, and the pressure is less for the smaller job. As it should be. The Big Cans are designed for lawn furniture and HGTV network shows.

(If a truly fine-spray nozzle was put on Testors paint cans, they would eliminate airbrushes for all but the most fussy jobs; it would be a boon for weathering.) 

Do you think any of these would work ?

https://artprimo.com/catalog/w...er.php?name=caps-101

You can get a variety of spray-can nozzles at art supply stores...even  some auto supply stores will stock them.  The popularity of "rattle-cans" vs. air brushes has created a demand for a more efficient spray nozzle. 

Richie C. posted:

D500 posted:

 

(If a truly fine-spray nozzle was put on Testors paint cans, they would eliminate airbrushes for all but the most fussy jobs; it would be a boon for weathering.) 

Do you think any of these would work ?

https://artprimo.com/catalog/w...er.php?name=caps-101

 

I have used spray products from ArtPrimo before and they do stock a lot of European items, some of which have been useful to me. But they don't have a lot of variety in spray heads for US hobby rattle cans and I find that the stock spray heads work well enough for O scale models although they do produce a lot of overspray. For really fine work I don't think that there's no real substitute for an airbrush but the amount of practice needed in using one is considerable.

Be aware (as the ArtPrimo page linked above notes) that many hardware store spray cans have special spray heads that you cannot substitute. 

Hancock52 posted:

For really fine work I don't think that there's no real substitute for an airbrush but the amount of practice needed in using one is considerable.

That is not true at all. A single action Paasche is no more harder to use than a rattle can. Learn to use one, you'll be glad that you did!

Dullcote with-in the last two years has not been consistent. I find sometimes it is not flat like it use to be leaving a slight shine in some cases. Perhaps the formula has been changed?

Stick with Krylon Clear FLAT plus the cost is much lower. I've weathered well over 1600 items using these and other spray paints. Airbrushes are for H.O. people dusting, not weathering, no need for them in O. If you know what you're doing, it shouldn't be a problem.

Practice - practice 

    I'd rather use any controllable airbrush, be it a pen, or a touch up or cup gun for automotive.... You just have to know what your doing 🤣

  Seriously though an airbrush gives you control no rattle can is able to.  Control of the air output and the paint flow into the airstream gives incredible control.  Poop it on so thick it spatters, or  mist for a whole minute before a dusting takes place.

  You can inspect the paint your about to use first hand too. Thin it just as you like, etc ..

  Rattle cans work ok in my hands too; no huge complaints really. but not better, because they simply aren't. I usually rattle can, but when I really care, the compressor gets fired up.

I'll give you easier to clean up though! (clank)

Big Jim posted:

Hancock52 posted:

For really fine work I don't think that there's no real substitute for an airbrush but the amount of practice needed in using one is considerable.

That is not true at all. A single action Paasche is no more harder to use than a rattle can. Learn to use one, you'll be glad that you did!

It is (true) in my experience, which includes Pasche single action and variety of double action airbrushes. I have now defaulted to using an Alclad single action "Accurate" model, one step below their "Precision" model. 

That said, I prefer a rattle can for under- and clear coats because  airbrushes are such a pain to clean up after use and sometime even between coats.

As a further alternative, someone on the Forum put me on to the Preval aerosol spray system described here: https://preval.com

This allows airbrush paints to be used over a much larger area (a whole passenger car interior assembly or multiple sets of seats/internal partitions for example) than any airbrush I have ever used will deal with easily. 

..... because  airbrushes are such a pain to clean up after use and sometime even between coats.

 

I paint large scale trains...the 1:32 to 1:29 scale stuff. My choice of airbrush is the Binks/ Wren Type B with the 2.5 ounce jar. Or I use a automotive HVLP gravity feed detail gun. 

Clearcoat...I use Dupli-Color Matte Clear.

MicroScale Satin is my preference....It doesn't yellow over time... I mix half product half water with a paasche airbursh...

Testors, which is owned by Rustoleum, no longer markets Dullcote as a trademark, though the term still shows up in the company’s product listing and on product web searches.

https://www.testors.com/produc...p-coats-and-thinners

As you can see, the can is marked simply as a clear lacquer spray, and the cap tells you whether it’s dull or gloss top coat finish.

Jim R. posted:

Testors, which is owned by Rustoleum, no longer markets Dullcote as a trademark, though the term still shows up in the company’s product listing and on product web searches.

https://www.testors.com/produc...p-coats-and-thinners

As you can see, the can is marked simply as a clear lacquer spray, and the cap tells you whether it’s dull or gloss top coat finish.

Having built many Tamiya models in the past.  I have sprayed a lot of decals.  The Testors is a very good product.  Tamiya makes a very good synthetic lacquer dull coat.  You may also want to consider that.  I think it is more gentle and smells better than the Testors.

One benefit to it is that it can seep underneath decals and set them at the same time.  I often will use a gloss clear, decal set & follow up with the dull.

As mentioned, never place a decal over a matte or flat finish.  Results are terrible.

Hi,

I don’t own an airbrush. I think the Testors Spray is the best option for me. Is there a high chance that the results will come out bad? Thanks for all your help. 

Ricky 

@SIRT posted:

Dullcote with-in the last two years has not been consistent. I find sometimes it is not flat like it use to be leaving a slight shine in some cases. Perhaps the formula has been changed?

Stick with Krylon Clear FLAT plus the cost is much lower. I've weathered well over 1600 items using these and other spray paints. Airbrushes are for H.O. people dusting, not weathering, no need for them in O. If you know what you're doing, it shouldn't be a problem.

Practice - practice 

SIRT: I would like to know if these dulling products are safe for scalecoat II can spray paint, please.