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Most likely if they are really decals, not some sort of sticker. 

Obtain some decal set solution from a local hobby shop.    Set the loco so the decaled surface is as flat horizontal as possible.   

If the decal is very loose, apply water to settle it down and get it right.   If just a little lifting just go to the decal set.

Use a small paint brush and apply decal set along the edges of the decal.    Then let it set until dry.    This stuff softens the decal and if  you touch it while wet, you will mess it up big time.   After dry look it over.    If not bubbles or anything  you are done.   If not prick them with a pin and apply decal set over them.    Once the first coat of decal set dries, it is not so sensitive.

When happy with it, spray a coat of gloss, satin, or dullcoat on the shell per your choice.    Probably want to mask the windows and lights before spraying.

Decals come loose if not oversprayed after application.

PRRJim,

Upon closer inspection, per your recommendations above, I looked closely at the decal and I now have it identified as a sticker.

However, I have a 40 year old model airplane I will be assembling with my 5 YO grandson, and I will ensure I have the decal set solution on hand prior to assembly.

I am printing a copy of your recommendations so I can follow them as we finish the model airplane.

Thank you very much.

I will repost the question using the correct nomenclature.

I would use, and have used, UHU (or similar) glue sticks for this type of work. Primarily to refix stickers to my Grandson's  dies cast cars.

Lift up as much of the sticker as you are comfortable with. Apply the UHU under the sticker with a toothpick, press the sticker in place, and then use a Q-tip moistened with water to remove the excess glue right away. If the whole sticker lifts up, then hold it with teezers and drag the back of the sticker along the exposed UHU stick, then apply the sticker.  You have about ten seconds to properly position the sticker

There is now an equivalent water base contact cement - 3M 30N - which can be rubbed off if it gets outside your logo.  I don't know if it is available in hobby- sized quantity, but we use an approved version to stick aircraft fabric on airframes, and it apparently has no speed limit.

If all else fails, Callie Graphics can make new vinyl stick-ons for reasonable prices. I use her artwork on model trains and real airplanes.

I don't know what Johnson & Johnson calls it this week, but Future Floor Wax, applied with a Q-tip, before and after decal application, has been used on plastic airplane models now displayed in the Smithsonian.  I use that technique on my models.

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