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I discovered this product while making a lake and stream on my layout. My lake is fairly large, and deep (around 1/2 inch) and I was looking at Woodland Scenics deep poor resin, kind of pricey for the volume I needed. So I went searching on the Web and found this, SuperClear Super Epoxy Resin Systems. I was so glad I found these guys and it's more economical. I did my stream and lake with SuperClear Liquid Glass Deep Pour Epoxy in conjunction with Woodland Scenics Water Tints and Water Undercoats (photo below).  I can say it all worked really well together, and SuperClear has no odor that I could detect. SuperClear works the same as Woodland Scenics Deep Pour Water, but SuperClear comes in much larger quantities for larger lakes and streams. Just like Woodland Deep Pour Water, it takes about 72 hours to harden completely. Curing time is the trick to these deep pour resins, because if the resin cures to fast it will heat up, shrink, and crack. You can also pour it in layers if you sand the top of each surface before you pour again. Liquid Glass Deep Pour comes in the following sizes: 0.75, 1.5 and 3 US Gallon. Happy Model Railroading! Link to SuperClear:

https://www.superepoxysystems.com/shop/

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How much of the epoxy did you use for your project?  Also, could you provide more detail on how you utilized the water tints and undercoats?  Looks really realistic!

Hi EmpireBuilderDave, in answer to your question let me list the color of the Woodland Scenics tint and undercoats and I'll add the PN as well. For most of this stuff just follow the instructions that come with the products, but here's some tips I used while I made the water effects on my layout.

Moss Green Undercoat - CW4533

Moss Green Water Tint - CW4521

Of course you can choose any of the Woodland Scenics water colors you want for your layout. I was modeling from a couple of my favorite lakes in Plumas County Northern Calif., just a few miles from the Feather River Canyon.

For the lake, stream at waterfall, pond, and the stream to the right of the lakes dam, I used almost a half gallon of the SuperClear Liquid Glass. All the pours were about a half inch deep, which gives the effect of a much deeper lake and pond. I mixed the Moss Green Water Tint with the Liquid Glass so when looking through the mixing cup it was completely cloudy. Mixing the tint is a one shot deal, so you might want to experiment with the tint using a small amount of Liquid Glass (1 ounce)  to determine how opaque you want the water to be. Make sure to keep track of how many drops of tint per ounce of Liquid Glass you have used to reach your goal. The Liquid Glass does not need to harden for this experiment, as the tint does not change when the Liquid Glass has hardened (72 hours for Liquid Glass to harden completely).

I painted the bottom of the lake with Moss Green Undercoat, two coats. Keep in mind that Liquid Glass Resin, or any other resin for that matter, will leach into just about everything when it is poured, so here's what you can do to prevent leaching into places you don't want it to go. After painting the bottom of the lake, stream, and pond, paint the bottom and shoreline of whatever you're making with white glue (I used Woodland Scenics white glue). Don't be stingy with the glue, make sure any cracks or holes are filled completely with glue, and let it dry for 24 hours. This will seal the surfaces and prevent the resin from leaching into the rest of your layout, or worse yet, out the bottom of your layout making a big mess!

I used two other Woodland Scenics products for water effects:

Water Effects - C1212 -Used for water flow in the stream and ripples from the canoes

Surface  Water - Water Waves - CW4516 - used where there would be heavy water movement, like around the waterfall

I hope you find this helpful, good luck and happy modeling!

I forgot to mention the waterfall and how I created the falling water. Pretty easy actually. One of the tools in my modeling kit is a non stick cookie sheet, a must for many modeling tasks.  Obviously I measured the distance from the top of the waterfall to the pond below and the width is about 3". I was going to use Woodland Scenics(WS) Water Effects PN C1212, but I may have gotten a bad batch or old stock, it wouldn't dry completely clear and it was satin when dry. So I went to Homey Depot and purchased a tube of clear silicon OSI QUAD MAX. It is paintable with latex paints, and Testors modeling paint works too. It also has the shiny quality that water has.

I applied silicon in 1/8" thick beads side by side 3" wide and 10" long on the non stick cookie sheet. I used a plastic fork to work length wise pulling it down and side to side to create the moving water (apologies, I forgot to take photos of this process). Let it completely dry for around 24 hours. Yes, we spend a lot of time waiting for stuff to dry in this hobby! Back at the pond I used WS Water Waves PN CW4516 to create the waves were the waterfall hits the pond surface and let dry for 24 hours. Once all was cured, I peeled the falling water from the cookie sheet. I adhered the top of the waterfall to the rock with the more of the silicon, and at the pond I used the Water Waves to adhere it. I let it cure one again for 24 hours. I used testers white paint for the white water in the waterfall and white caps in the pond. I think it came out pretty much as I was expecting, let me know what you think.

FYI - My layout is stand alone as it is not connected to the house. I need to be able to pull it out from the bay window to work on it. There are soft felt skids on the bottom of all the vertical supports so it moves easily by one person, being me! In case anybody was wondering.





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  • Unfinished corner: Before
  • Waterfall and Pond: After
  • Santa Fe workers and truck: The Menard's truck has lights and lights up the waterfall at night

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