No schematics available for the R2(4)LC, but the locations of the I/O triacs are well known. These are by far the most common failure items as a rule. A brief short to the chassis of any of the outputs and the triac is gone. I keep lots of spares for that reason.
Thanks. Next question: The rear/front lights on the shell don't light. I hooked up grain of wheat bulb to the CC, and it did dimly glow. I don't know if the shell is using bulbs or LEDs. I used a 9V battery, and then 2 in series to test it, but no joy. Also tried AC. Do you know what MTH used on the PS1 shells, and how can I test the lights? Also, do you know what the CC outputs on the 'light' terminations, AC or DC and what voltage?
Thanks,
Dennis
The PS/1 diesel lights are typically 1.5V bulbs, I'd replace them with LED's if it were my upgrade. The little 1.5V bulbs barely light, they're pretty wimpy.
The CC (really the R2LC lighting outputs) put out half-wave track power in command mode, full wave track power if in conventional mode. They certainly should like a typical 12V bulb, and they'll smoke those little 1.5V bulbs in the shell instantly.
I'm regretting this upgrade. So I probably smoked the lights already. I hate to dig them out, but will start doing just that. The 9V battery may have blown them I suppose. Any LED type you recommend? I could try what I have and see if they light. I did note that the gain-of-wheat bulb was brighter when connected to a 9V battery than the R2LC.
Dennis
I use plain 3mm flangeless LED's for my upgrades. You just need a 470 ohm resistor in series with one lead, and the positive side of the LED goes to frame ground, the negative side goes to the headlight output.
Thank you. My meter confirmed your diagnoses. Infinity. Bulbs gone.
Dennis
That's what happens when you put six times the rated voltage to them!
The documentation is lacking. The output voltages should be specified, including lights, couplers and smoke, as they differ from MTH's and perhaps other mfg's specs. I looked for those numbers but couldn't find them.
Thanks,
Dennis
Yes, the documentation is lacking, we've known that for a long time. I now have the R2LC documentation in my head, so I no longer lament it's absence.
Many of us learn this stuff the hard way, smoke, fire, blown bulbs, etc.
Yes, there's a learning curve. Thanks to this site, and folks like you, it a bit easier. But 15 minutes work, and the unit's specs could be included in documentation. Not hard, is customary, and it would have saved me some trouble.
Thanks again,
Dennis
J Dennis posted:But 15 minutes work, and the unit's specs could be included in documentation.
Since that ain't about to happen with old documentation, we just have to learn to live with what we have.
I measure 1.9VAC from both light terminals (4 and 5). Does that sound correct, with track voltage 18VAC?
Dennis
The measurement will vary widely based on what type of meter you use to read it. The triac also has to have a load in order to fire. I just measured one with my true-RMS digital meter, I get around 9VAC and 6VDC with a light bulb load. Without the lightbulb, the triac doesn't fire and I get less than a volt of residual stray voltage.
John,
When I apply brakes, I hear squealing even after the engine has stopped. Brakes squeal as long as I hold the brake-button on my cab-1. Is that normal for the Railsounds board? None of my Legacy or TMMC engines do that. With Legacy/TMCC, the break squeals stop when the engine stops. Also, I've notice a sudden stop, more so than the Legacy or TMCC, which have a more realistic stop. Is that normal, or should I be looking at something? Slow motion is very good, better in reverse than forward, but still acceptable, and speed appears consistent.
Thanks,
Dennis
I just tried that with a CAB1/BASE1 on my test bench with a RS4 equipped locomotive, the brake squeal stops when the locomotive stops. It takes a second or two after the stop, but it does stop.
John,
Thank you for testing that!
I found that if I turn speed down while holding the brake button, the squeal does stop. But when I don't touch the speed dial, the squealing will continue - until I dial speed down. Are you manually dialing back speed while holding the brake?
Dennis
Nope, I just punched the brake button until it stopped. It squealed a second or so after the stop and then shut up.
Thanks. I will see what ERR says, but am inclined to live with it.
Dennis
The current ERR sound module is really RS5 based, maybe that does it different...
You're right, the ERR single board RS Commander will squeal as long as you hold the brake. Also, it'll start when it's stopped by just hitting the brake again. I never noticed that before.
If you're seeing the same, than mine is 'normal.' Weird implementation. I emailed ERR, and will post their response.
Thanks,
Dennis