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Please comment if you have in the past, or are running 3R equipment on code 148 Track.

This would include both by adding a center rail or dead-rail.  I want to hear from those that have done this without changing to 2R wheel sets.  Do you have derailment problems?  Did you have to do anything "special" to avoid derailments?  Equipment I have was made between about 1990 and 2009. Thank you!

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An integral part of my 'test track' layout is a yard ladder comprised of old 1970's era Atlas 2-rail switches with a Code 148 center rail added (same size as the running rails), and I've never had an instance of flanges hitting the ties. The back-to-back gauge of typical 3-rail flanges places them slightly inboard of the molded tie plates. Due to this I did have to remove the guard rails adjoining the frog to allow them to pass through, and also apply a thin layer of epoxy to the running rails where pickup rollers cross them, but this hasn't made them a source of derailments.

They can be seen in-use on my numerous 'test track: xxxx' videos on YouTube (same username as here), as most videos of trains starting from a standstill start out moving through one of said switches, (example below, one of the sidings using the modified track can be seen in the foreground of the opening shot, and the switch itself can be seen at 4:10).

I've run Lionel postwar/MPC/LTI, Williams, K-Line, Right-of-Way, RMT, Kusan, 3rd Rail, MTH, Weaver, Menards, modern and 1970's Atlas through them without issue, using track pins soldered to the Atlas joiners to adapt them to the 027 tubular that comprises the rest of the layout.

(slightly offtopic) These switches were recycled from my floor-layout days and were used since I built layouts that ran from room-to-room, hosting trains so long that they'd block walkways when parked, so I built lay-up yards to corral the consists when not running. The Atlas switches allowed me to pack more tracks together for increased storage in a given space, and more importantly, they were cheap (under $10 apiece for manual ones back in the early 1990's) and the place I got them from (The Red Caboose in Manhattan) also had the Code 148 rail and large-scale spikes I used to modify them for 3-rail use.

---PCJ

@RailRide posted:

An integral part of my 'test track' layout is a yard ladder comprised of old 1970's era Atlas 2-rail switches with a Code 148 center rail added (same size as the running rails), and I've never had an instance of flanges hitting the ties. The back-to-back gauge of typical 3-rail flanges places them slightly inboard of the molded tie plates. Due to this I did have to remove the guard rails adjoining the frog to allow them to pass through, and also apply a thin layer of epoxy to the running rails where pickup rollers cross them, but this hasn't made them a source of derailments.

They can be seen in-use on my numerous 'test track: xxxx' videos on YouTube (same username as here), as most videos of trains starting from a standstill start out moving through one of said switches, (example below, one of the sidings using the modified track can be seen in the foreground of the opening shot, and the switch itself can be seen at 4:10).



I've run Lionel postwar/MPC/LTI, Williams, K-Line, Right-of-Way, RMT, Kusan, 3rd Rail, MTH, Weaver, Menards, modern and 1970's Atlas through them without issue, using track pins soldered to the Atlas joiners to adapt them to the 027 tubular that comprises the rest of the layout.

(slightly offtopic) These switches were recycled from my floor-layout days and were used since I built layouts that ran from room-to-room, hosting trains so long that they'd block walkways when parked, so I built lay-up yards to corral the consists when not running. The Atlas switches allowed me to pack more tracks together for increased storage in a given space, and more importantly, they were cheap (under $10 apiece for manual ones back in the early 1990's) and the place I got them from (The Red Caboose in Manhattan) also had the Code 148 rail and large-scale spikes I used to modify them for 3-rail use.

---PCJ

Thank you for the reply lots of helpful information.

I have watched a number of your videos, I like the fact you run long trains, that is what I want to do.  I also like the sound of the wheels going over the switches.  It reminds me of when I lived in the Midwest and watched real trains cross the diamond at Rochelle, IL.  The sound is similar (but about 1/48 as loud - LOL).  I also like the way you intermixed with the O27.

I do have one question, on the wall mounted "shelf" portion, how wide is the board?  I have been thinking of doing that and wondered how close the track can be to the wall without causing problems.  I am afraid the front overhanging pilot, could clip the wall coming out of curves.  Thanks again.

Thank you for the reply lots of helpful information.

I have watched a number of your videos, I like the fact you run long trains, that is what I want to do.  I also like the sound of the wheels going over the switches.  It reminds me of when I lived in the Midwest and watched real trains cross the diamond at Rochelle, IL.  The sound is similar (but about 1/48 as loud - LOL).  I also like the way you intermixed with the O27.

I do have one question, on the wall mounted "shelf" portion, how wide is the board?  I have been thinking of doing that and wondered how close the track can be to the wall without causing problems.  I am afraid the front overhanging pilot, could clip the wall coming out of curves.  Thanks again.

The closest-to-the-wall sections place the outermost rail at 2.5" from the wall, give or take an 1/8" or so, (given the modules are free-standing and sitting on padded carpet so they may shift slightly laterally). I sized the curve modules to accommodate the overhang of a DDA40X (my largest locomotive at the time the loop was built) on the 072 curves, and years later a scale Big Boy cleared the walls all the way around when I first acquired one.

The section actually attached to the wall is sitting on an enclosure the original homeowner had built for a 1960's-era in-wall stereo (The Fisher 220 receiver + Garrard Stereolab 65 turntable*) way back when, and I left it in-place when I bought the house, as it made a convenient platform to situate a yard and launch construction of the loop track.

---PCJ

*still functional last time I checked

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