FASTRACK SWITCH TRACK ISSUES

The metal rod is not functional. It just represents the prototype connection. If you have no recourse on returning them, the best fix is to buy the switch stand from Lionel or a dealer. I have changed 3 LEDs, but it's not easy. The switch stand is.

Order the 6102045126 from Lionelsupport.com. (LINK HERE) They are having 50% off parts through midnight tonight. I already ordered 2 of these for the same reason.

Here is how to change the led. Here is the switch stand

Its the one thing I hate about Fast Track switches. Have to dissemble trackage to get to switch to repair bad LEDs. Wonder why they didn't just make it a drop in from top? Maybe that was to easy. Had to pull up a lot of buildings and wires for the lighting inside them and a lot of trackage to get to 3 switches lights that had burned out, (one was a bad factory cold solder connection).  Now I just let them stay out.

What happened to the warranty? This should cost you nothing.

Thank you for all of the responses.  I have read that the rod is not functional and have been told to order new switch stands.  I have also read that these LED's go out all the time.  On the subject of the metal rod.  In the case of the two that don't work at all, it's not the rod being absent but that the switch stand is bad?  In the case of the lights, it's just easier to order new stands and install them?

According to Lionel, parts such as bulbs are not covered.  If I can get Lionel to respond to my email, I may ask them if I can order the switch stands I need to fix the ones that are not working free of charge.  I'll keep you posted on that one.

LED not warrantied? ....Boo! Hiss! 

Worthy of a nasty letter of reprimand and shying from purchase imo.

I'd convert MTH or other dwarf signals and photograph it to drive it all home 

   It's not an "oh well" issue to me when they choose the lamps and install them not to be replaced reasonably when they likely could have.

(Nearly as bad as as $1,200 automotive headlamps... Yep! $1200 each)

That's ridiculous! Do you hear me Lionel; RIDICULOUS !!!

The rod is for show only and a real pain to put back in. In my opinion, it is much easier to change the stand. In the PDF above , it tells how to check for voltage to make sure the led is blown

John from upstate, thank you, that explains volumes, and may I ask, PDF?  Am I missing something.

Oh and to Leo, I agree, that is ridiculous.  I may have read that wrong, but I am almost sure things like bulbs and traction tires are not covered under warranty.  Even at that, so they aren't a warrantied item, at least have the decency to replace defective parts out of the box.  And based on what the person told me in reply prior to this, for Lionel to even dream that the bulbs are expected to last the lifetime of the product is like saying we at whirlpool believe that our washers and dryers will never wear out so don't expect us to fix anything for free because our policy is clear, they are indestructible and it must have been your fault.

Keeping with the main theme of this thread, but having another question i'd like to field the forum, so as not to start another thread, have any of you ever had a problem getting your Lionel Locomotive programmed to work with DCS?  I watched Eric's Train video on YouTube that covered this step by step, did what he said, but for the life of me I can't get that lionel locomotive to respond to the remote.  It is supposed to work like or as much as it can, like the MTH locomotives, right?  I can't even get mine to start.  I appreciate all the help with the switch track.  In case you are new to this and like me have to take forever to get to the train track portion of your layout, understand that owners manuals leave stuff out.  I may have missed it, but Eric, not the DCS manual told me that I had to switch the locomotive from Run to Program (run to pgm) in order to get this ball rolling.  Then Eric, not the manual, told me I had to switch it back to run the train.  So if you have time and ability to test this stuff early, do so.  Stores frown on returns after 30 days.

In the fourth post of this thread I posted a PDF file on how to change the led. In that file are instructions on how to check voltage to the led. It's highlighted in blue.

I have 24 fastrack switches on my layout, never had a single issue with LED’s.  I would question the fact so many don’t work.  It is over exaggerated they go bad all the time. Perhaps your switch stand is not installed correctly and causing poor contact.  Also they have a year warranty, so why not contact Lionel?  

I have 22, and 5 went out. If they don't work even after I take them off the switch, I figure they are bad. I never said they go bad all the time, but some of us have had problems.

How are your switches powered?  Track or external Direct wiring?  Perhaps that is the cause of people with burned out LED’s? 

‘Mine are all powered by track (default).  Are people overpowering their switches?

Mine are 5 years running

Sean

Thank you.  As for the warranty thing, the switches are warranted, but I read the bulbs, traction tires and something else along those lines, are not covered by warranty.  I have contacted Lionel but no word yet.  Thank you for the information, I will check the switch stands as you advised.  Good to know that someone out there has had good luck with their switch track.  I have 18.  I was surprised by the outages as well.  I too power my track pieces using track.  One terminal hooked to the TIU in my case, I run remote, and then what looks like a never ending line of straights, curves, switches on switches, and more straights and curves until I finally have a complete layout.  Distance doesn't seem to be the problem.  I have four switches on one side of my ovals, and all four work true to form.  On the opposite side, four switches, only one has a working lamp, but all four switch correctly.  I have two switches in one area that don't work at all, but the remote lights work.  I love model railroading.

I would call Lionel as I noticed the e-mail response is super slow.  I know they are lights but technically not bulbs, they are LED’s .  Also tell them they were dead on arrival.  They should be covered.  Also check the copper contacts where switch stand connects to switch, just to verify they are actually bad and not just a bad connection.

Mine are powered separately by a Type V transformer at 14 volts, while the track is at 19 volts for DCS. I will say that once I fixed the bad ones, I haven't had any more trouble in about 4 years.