From New layout 16 X 12.5 to Garage

That's really come a long way from the initial design. You now have access to all tracks in both directions and only have to back up to service the yard/dock. I do have some more comments though.

I hate to repeat myself, but if you move the top left switch on the outer loop to the first curved track on the curve side of the upper left switch leading to the next inner loop, you can extend the top siding to have a 3-tier ladder style yard up there. I think the straight part of the switch can be followed by curved tracks to connect to the siding track up there. You may have already tried that and it wouldn't connect or you didn't like it.

Since you have 3 different legs to the outer oval, I'm not sure you really need that double crossover. I know you can use it to avoid a train coming from the other direction, but 4 switches plus the X tracks are not cheap and you already have a passing siding on that leg and 2 other routes you can take to avoid oncoming trains.

At any rate, even though I'm a fan of more loop to loop around the wall style layouts,  I think your oval design is coming along nicely.

Daz

 

I have tried to put the left switch after the other switch as you said but the other tracking following it will not connect without using a smaller curve under O54. So I guess I will have to come up with something else. 

Darned sorry to hear that, but I hope it was at least worth trying.

Hi all,

Just wanted to give a status update. Looks like my plans have drastically changed. No longer will my layout be in the basement as I hoped. Now it looks like I will have to settle for the garage. From my preliminary measurement I have taken, the garage measure appro 17'X9.5'. But since I have a garage door I have ti limit the length by about 2'. So I really have 15'X9.5'. Here is a couple of issues I need some advice on before I even begin to think about building a layout. During the winter it gets cold in there. Like 45-50 degrees. One length side wall is brick blocks as the garage is part of foundation to my townhouse. Also the garage is on a small slope length wise. My idea was to build against the walls. The layout would be similar to the one above except maybe 2' or 3' deep around the perimeter. I had plan on putting some heavy duty piano hinges on the back part of each side of layout adjacent to the wall. Dont know if I will be able to put hinges on the brick block side of wall. Make a split seam on each narrow side to maybe allow each side layout to fold down or up. This way I can hide in case our small car needs to brought in.  Here is a basic rendering of the idea. Thanks for any help.

Daz

I did finally end up finding a solution to my previous layout. I guess it will have to wait for another time. Thanks for all the help. 

Don't you just hate when plans change? The main thing is that you still have the option to have a layout and you may get to put your solution to work at some later date. I'll be reviewing your new plan to see if I have any suggestions.

Out of curiosity I had the chance to take some temperature measurement from the garage and this is what i got. Its about 51 degrees and about 26% humidity. I'm in NJ. I not concern with the summer since it doesn't get too hot here in NJ. are there any concerns for me in the winter? Thanks

I actually came up with an idea of using folding shelf bracket that can hold up 200 lbs each. So by simply building a 2 foot dept by 15 foot width table of each side, I can attach these brackets on the cement block side of the wall and the regular drywall side. All I have left is to build 2 removable sections to bridge the two sides. Here is a pic of the bracket. So with all this, if I ever need to bring the car in I simply remove the sections and fold the two tables. Now the hard part of building it. 

Hi all
Was wondering if i should be concerned in terms of moving my layout to the garage due to cold temps in the winter. Not concerned with loco engines since i will have them inside on the wall display. But in terms of the TIU? I wanted to ask here before going to MTH. Has anyone had problems with their TIU in the garage with cold temps? My garage gets to be as low as 49 degrees but dry. I would hate to always need to bring in the TIU when not in use. I assume the transformers should be fine. Thanks

I haven't seen those. Where did you find them?

 

The concern I'd have for fold-down sections is that your track, ground cover, and scenery are exposed to being hit by car doors and being bumped. The layout surface is better protected by folding up, but that's harder to implement.

Matt & Borderman;

I had a thought;

IF you use a hard style of skirting on the layout, you could unhook it, lower the layout side, then shift the skirting back to protect the scenery. A couple blocks at the top and bottom would ensure depth was maintained.

Matt

 

There are a couple of companies that carry these like rockler. But they are a bit expensive at about $35 each. I have simply decided to have fold-able legs. Since each side of the table would be narrow say 2 feet in depth. I can simply remove the sectional bridges and put each table inside.

hey you could take 3 legs, one on each side of another and use long pins that have holes in each end to put in small pins to hold them in place.  just an option.  the pin acts as the hinge.

Hi all
Update of the layout is that i managed to split the table i had in basement in half to create a around the wall layout in my garage. So now i have two narrow tables of 2x10. I now have to create the two lift sections for each end. But before i do that i still plan on lengthening the two tables by 4 feet. Still debating. I will post pics later.

Here are some the pics for the split table now. Had the table on the wrong side. The edges on the side are flush against the side. Height of table is about 40". 

wow tight space.  so you have to fix everything down to lift it up.  If you hinged it, you could use a rope and pulley system so it could be easier to get it up in the air. then you could clip each side to the wall with loops screwed into the block with anchors. 

 

you might also want to insulate with 2" foam and stud that side with 2x4 with flat face of the 2x4. you only loose 2.5" when drywall is on.  might be warmer!  I know when I did mine, I had 40 degrees and it went to 55 with no heat.  I ran some holes in my ducts to heat the space and now it stays 60 in winter.  good to run trains.  The floor is always the issue.!    Ive seen builders now do in floor water heat for peoples garages

Chris

 

Cant use the hinge since each bridge is about 5 feet long. It will not clear the ceiling. So my only option is a lift which is not bad at all. It came out pretty nice and simple. H

 

Here are some latest pics. Finished the bridge on one end. Also did some clearance testing. I do plan on adding a 2" foam on top of homasote I was finally able to find. 

 

I also decided to just do two tracks instead of three. Problem was the bridges would have been needed to be wider which I felt was too much. Each bridge will be about 12" wide. 

I finally finished one side of the bridge. Again bridge is removable. I am happy how it came out. Instead of using homasote I decided to get with a foam I find out about and was already on my layout that was inside my finished basement. It is Volarafoam. I was happy with the nosie reduction. So I cut it in half and placed it on each table. Here are some pics. 

Finally have my new layout on my RR Track software. I just need a couple of more switches and I can begin to test the track for any bugs before I begin to develop my scenery.  Due to small size cant really add to much. But this will do for now. Coal tower and pump station on one side while the other a maintenance area.

All

 

Just a little update, here are more pics of my current garage layout. Hopefully soon I can begin to add some ballast. 

Nice layout, it is just like mine which is in a one car garage also. My sides are also 24" wide with it wider at the ends. 

 

I used mainne bench work which worked for me and is 50" high. 

 

The space is not ideal but it works for me, gives me a chance to run my scale locomotives. 

Thanks Dave. Same here. Not much space but I can run some locos. 

It's been a while since I gave an update on my layout. Well I finally changed that lift out bridge to something much better and easier. I want to thank Susan Deats and others from the forum. I burrowed Susan's idea using the gas springs with my hinged lift bridge. It came out great. Below are are progress pics.

 

That is frighteningly good looking woodwork. How did you determine what size air spring to use? I was going to use this method, but made a swing out section instead.

 

Also, what do you plan to do about hiding the hinges. Had you considered using something that would hinge from underneath?

Mr trainman thanks for the generous comments. In terms of the spring size I just compared with Susan Deats used on her layout which was a double bridge. I used 1/2" birch wood panel. But it needed a little more weight so I just added more weight by adding strips of wood. I believe that particular gas spring needs about 30lbs to compress the springs. You can see a piece of it at the top part of the bridge. In terms of the hinges I don't mind too much. Can't really put them underneath since that piece is a little more than 3 feet long. It won't clear the floor.

I was thinking more like cabinet hinges that lift up and swing our and are invisible on the face. Here was the design I drew, but didn't build.

 

 

As I look at this image I see a potential problem: the edge of the lift gate would interact with the existing layout edge (and more importantly, the edges of the track). What's really needed is the same kind of hinge that is used on airplane landing gear doors or car trunk lids—a hinge that lifts up and out of the way and then comes back in perfect alignment.

Trainman, I did think about this but as you said I was concern about the binding. But looks good. There maybe a hinge out there that does as you say. 

That looks fabulous, very well done!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Thanks,

Alex

Now I just have to do the otherside. Thanks Alex.

Not the heat but the unbelievable Jersey humidity that will affect your wood and especially the fit of of track bearing closures. I had a layout in my Morristown, N.J. basement and had to install a sizable humidifier to maintain around 50%.

Hopefully it is less of a problem in your Jersey area and garage.

An inexpensive Humistat will keep you posted.

Dewey you are right about wood expanding and contracting. I do hope its not too much of a problem. I know last year it wasn't that bad. The humidity levels in my garage got up to maybe 65% in my garage. So I am hoping it wont be a problem. But we will see. 

Here's another approach using the same idea as air craft landing gear door hinges. In this case, the panel lifts up and out of the way of the joint and comes down vertically. I gave relief to the panels to ensure that they realign correctly. I'm also including other pictures of hinges that do the same thing. 

 

 

Since you haven't laid any track, there's still time to change the design if you wish. Notice that the lower hinge point lies behind the panel edge. I first tried it in line with the panel and the upper panel crashed into the lower one. 

 

I wonder if you couldn't go to a auto scrap yard and get a pair of Volkswagen articulating trunk hinges. You could add weight to the panel to counterbalance the stronger air springs.