Open the tender to check what shape the battery looked like. Well here is what I found, What goes to what wire. I do have a 9v connector in my parts somewhere. but where does it get connected at? what are the other two wires to. There is a Blac, Red, Green, & yellow. Then there is the piece that is suppose to snap into something. 

IMG_6983

Thanks for any help. 

Bill

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I thought the battery connector was always red and black, but I don't see those in your picture. It's not good to have loose wires like that in the tender, as I am sure you are aware. The ends are not insulated and they can short and blow your board. Hope others can join in to give more specific advice.

George

I think the Protosound board is supposed to be in the tender, but I don't see it. There are lots of connectors on that board for different functions such as smoke, smoke, lights, tach reader, etc. 

Is this PS1 or PS2 or newer? Does the engine run?

George

It's proto1 and I'm going to have to pull out one of my other PRR 6-8-6 tenders to find out if the engine works, as I know there good. Heck I got the whole set for $40.58 including shipping so I can't complain but this wasn't disclosed either. I may have to convert it to TMCC

Bill

Chuck help me understand this. so this does not need a battery? I hooked the engine up to one of my other tenders with a bcr and it did as it should. I heard what sounded like a fan going which I let it do for about 30 seconds than ran it and it went forward neutral and then reverse as it should on my 30" test track. I see looking at my other tender that the black piece that snaps in is for electro-coupler but on mine the yellow wire goes to the white snap piece where here they have a blue wire. 

Bill

Engineer-Joe posted:

And I've read just as many problem about DCS so your point? they both have there problems. Comments like yours do not help the situation just makes post more likely to find negative for you about your system, which I don't have the time to play your childish game

Bill

It appears it needs more than a battery. They weren't made with bare wires exposed like that. You almost got the engine for free. For less than 200 bucks you can upgrade to PS3. The kits are designed to drop into PS1 engines with little modification. You can also upgrade to TMCC but it will cost quite a bit more to get the same performance as everything is a la carte. PS3 has everything you need. TMCC needs motor drive, sound, couplers, chuff generators, lights. All separate items.

Pete

You know Pete if that was the case when I started this engine up with it's tender I would of fried the boards but guess what it started in neutral I hit direction and it went forward, I hit direction it went into neutral again, and I hit direction one more time and it went into reverse. It turns out that this is basically a conventional 

Bill

rtraincollector posted:
Engineer-Joe posted:

And I've read just as many problem about DCS so your point? they both have there problems. Comments like yours do not help the situation just makes post more likely to find negative for you about your system, which I don't have the time to play your childish game

you should follow his posts before you say that!

" on Sour mash and cheap wine " ??

Why go back to DCC when I have DCS!

Loco-sound is not PS-1, and it is not strictly conventional either. it will work by remote using the enclosed remote and IR lock-on in the set. Or conventionally with a transformer. Loco-sound was released  concurrently with PS-2. It was like a 'poor mans' DCS.  It has since been discontinued. It will not operate with DCS. No battery is needed to run the engine. (but the remote uses batteries). The plug is for the rear electric coupler, if equipped. One could be added if desired. The other wires are connected to nothing at the other end. You can clip them off if you want, but with a plastic tender shell, there is not a chance for a short circuit. They are there because the same harness is used in different locos and utilized in them. It could be upgraded, but that is going to cost double what the engine is worth, no matter what system you choose. You can get that same engine on ebay with PS-2 for less money than a up-grade kit.

One other thing.  That set engine is not a "full" sized Rail, King.  It is what they called a "Bantam" sized.  Probably actually smaller than the original Lionel S2.  You can see the boiler section is no longer than the RK box car.  When the Rail King PRR S2 came out  it was about 26 or so inches long boiler+tender.

The other thing the sound file was not of a Turbine's "whoosh."   It is a "chuff." And I guess for a kid that may make sense.

Ron

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