Help needed please. Factory new RMT Beep Diesel.

P.S.- When I turn my throttle lever up to the half way point, the BEEP doesn't move.  I have to put the throttle all of the way up to get it to move at its crawl pace.

This means that I can't run the BEEP and another engine on my layout at the same time.   With the throttle all of the way up, the BEEP crawls, and the other engine runs full blast.

Thx,

Mannyrock

You say it has two motors--it sounds like the RMT Bang. I've got two and they run about the same speed as my other engines.

@Scotie posted:

You say it has two motors--it sounds like the RMT Bang. I've got two and they run about the same speed as my other engines.

The Beep also has two motors   The Beep runs slower than most but it shouldnt be that different

Actually Scotie, the BEEP does indeed have two motors.  They ain't big ones, but they're there.

Here's the chassis of mine when I was installing the ERR CC-Lite board.

@Mannyrock posted:

P.S.- When I turn my throttle lever up to the half way point, the BEEP doesn't move.  I have to put the throttle all of the way up to get it to move at its crawl pace.

This means that I can't run the BEEP and another engine on my layout at the same time.   With the throttle all of the way up, the BEEP crawls, and the other engine runs full blast.

Clearly, something is amiss.  Normally, the BEEP is fairly speedy.  I know mine will scoot around the layout at a pretty quick clip.

Thanks for the information--seems like an odd design for a single truck engine.

I've got two Bangs and I love them, perfect on my O31 and O42 curves.

I have three and IIRC they do run slower than a typical conventional engine. The short wheelbase and pick ups do cause stalls occasionally. Has it been cleaned and lubricated?

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

I have three and IIRC they do run slower than a typical conventional engine. The short wheelbase and pick ups do cause stalls occasionally. Has it been cleaned and lubricated?

You obviously have a vastly different definition of "slow" than I do. Here's a bog stock BEEP right out of the box running with about 9 volts on the track.

Mine don't run like that John. It's been a while since I've had one on the rails. I'll try them later today.

That was a conventional one that is right out of the box.  My command ones will also run at similar speeds, but I was trying to illustrate operation with one that should be very similar or identical to what Mannyrock has.

In the short time that RMT was blowing them out and then O-Line Reproductions was selling them cheap, I grabbed a few of them.  I have plans for some double-headed consists with a couple of sets.

Thanks for that video John.   Mine runs at 1/4th that speed.    I ran it for 15 minutes, thinking this might loosen it up, but it had no effect.  This one was made in China.

Interesting to me that when I took mine out of the box, the bottom of the loco is really wet with oil.  Don't know what this means.

I guess that I could try to fully lube it, and otherwise fool with it, but my problem is that if I'm going to return it, I've got to return it pretty quickly  on Ebay.  And, I really don't want another "project" on my hands.

I would have been better off buying a used one in VG+ condition from a Member of this forum.  Lesson learned.

Mannyrock

That was at a fairly low track voltage, though they do top out at not much faster than that.  However, that's faster than I normally run anything on my RR, so it's fast enough for me.

I think they were all made in China.

John, yours runs VERY nicely! I'm beginning to wonder if there is/was a manufacturing problem with some of these. I have one that also runs slowly. I'll have to look at it more closely when I get the layout up and running. That may be a while...

Mannyrock, suggestion: Set the BEEP on its side and apply power with alligator clips. See if both wheels sets are turning and at the same speed. Just a shot in the dark.

Chris

LVHR

Hard to day what happens over in China.  I just stuck both of my command equipped ones on two loops and went to full throttle, they both had similar top end speed as the video I previously posted.  I don't recall ever having any of the half dozen or so I've tinkered with have a slow running issue.  I also have chassis pieces, extra wheels, etc.  I actually have removed the traction tire from my command versions so they have better outside track contact, with only one wheel touching, going through many switches is iffy with the traction tire.  These were never designed to pull a big load anyway.

If I do a dual-headed configuration, I can keep the traction tires and run all for of the little motors off one motor control, that should give them more pulling power.

@Mannyrock

@gunrunnerjohn

I just tried all three of my BEEPS and they don't run like John's either. Here's a video at 12v and then at 18v. At 9v it didn't even move.

I also have a bunch of K-line Plymouth's that run at about the same speeds.

Hope this helps with your decision on returning.

Bob

Wondering if someone wired the two motors of Mannyrock's in series???  I had a conventional WBB GG-1 upgraded to RS (no command) and, while doing it, the tech asked if I wanted to slow it down by wiring the motors in series as discussed here frequently.  It runs great, more like RSJB's, not John's.

I bought all of mine used. I haven't opened them to look but now inquiring minds need to know so it will be on my bench later today.

I bought two off of Walter when he had RMT, and both are speedy like John’s.

Bob, thanks for that video.

When I turn my 1033 transformer up to its max of 16 volts, my BEEP runs at about the same speed (or a little less), than yours is running at 12 volts.

I can remember when buying something new in box was a joy, . . .not a frustration.

Mannyrock

I think I may have a clue.  I took two older ones out from the original RMT stock years ago.  They run much slower, and I'm sure it's the electronics as my two command ones that run plenty fast were created from the same vintage models.  The ones that came later with the tether had totally different drive boards and that must have made a big difference in their top speeds.

These were about a foot apart and after a run around the layout once (140 feet), they had joined, but individually they run at the same speed as you see.

Guys, thanks for all of the ideas.   I bought this unit for a relatively cheap price on E-bay, being $85 plus $20 shipping.  (Thought I had scored a bargain!)

This price is about 1/3rd to 1/2 less than I have seen other new in box BEEPs being listed.

So, I have a strong suspicion that the Seller knew that there was a problem with this engine.   Although the carton flap did not look like it had been opened, the extra oil on the bottom of the engine makes me think that someone tried to get this thing running at regular speed by oiling it up.

If I had any expertise like you guys in diagnosing and fixing mechanical and electrical problems with locos, I might keep it and try to fix it.  But, for me, it would be just shooting in the dark, and most likely never being able to fix it.

Thanks,

Mannyrock

Something is going on here;

Here is the item description for another BEEP currently on the Bay, for a cheap price of $80 plus shipping. 

A very nice, very likely never run, RMT-4223 Pennsylvania PRR #8005 Dual Motor Powered GP9 BEEP Diesel for O/027 gauge made in ~2011.

"  The gearing, traction tire and dual motors might not make it fast but it is strong for it's size!"

Plainly, this Seller has a unit that doesn't run right, and he is covering it with this wording.  Notice he doesn't say it is new in box unused, he says it is very likely never run.

So, something is going on here.    I think that somebody unloaded a bunch of factory seconds or defective units at cheap prices out to these Sellers, and now they are dumping them out to the public.     If they are selling them at $80, then they probably only paid $40.    I don't believe that any retailer could have gotten a fully working, correct, NIB BEEP for a mere $40.

Mannyrock

John,

Thanks very much for that second video.  Mine runs at about 1/3rd the speed as your slower units.  (It is agonizing to watch!)

Mannyrock

Send it back.

Done.

Thanks John and all others for your help.

Mannyrock

I bought 3 when they first came out.  2 motors and barely crawled.  Lesson learned.  eBay got em.

The last video I posted is the two slow ones I have.  All the other BEEP locomotives I have, command or conventional, run pretty fast at full throttle.  Those slow ones have the old BEEP electronics, that's the bottleneck in those units.  The later units had a much larger reverse board that was able to supply full current to the motors.

All my beeps always ran like "bats out of ****".

Is it possible that some have hardened grease?

Mine don't have any hardened grease, the older reverse board just doesn't have the "oomph" to drive them to full speed.  I found one of the original reverse boards in my parts boxes, blast from the past.

This is the original wimpy reverse board.

This is the newer and much more robust reverse board.  The BEEP models with the tether to double-head them have this board.

The BEEP models with the new board will fly, the ones with the older board are much more sedate.

Manny rock, don’t give up on them, they’re neat little engines, and seem to be what you’re looking for. I even added a sound unit to one of them, but then removed it to put in a Lionel 44 ton switcher that I painted into a Lackawanna engine. Good luck, Artie

Mine are also sedate runners:

I don't know what the voltage was on that run, other than it was a Z-1000 at the time.

---PCJ

With that many cars it's not surprising they don't run super fast.

The "slow" Beeps sure look better than the newer, faster ones.  Of course, that's what a throttle is for, I guess. Are the newer ones even capable of not running at Warp Speed?

John,

I think you are on to something here with the boards. I'll have to open mine up and see which board is inside. Presuming it is the "wimpy"  board (Can I have a hamburger and pay for it Tuesday?) where can I purchase the non-wimpy version? Has anyone tried installing a Dallee or other brand board in one of these? I looked at the RMT website, but I see nothing about being able to buy the boards separately.

Chris

LVHR

Here's the two slow BEEPS pulling a tank train.  I had to help them with the grade, they couldn't make it on their own.

When I added my 3rd jackrabbit BEEP to the mix, it really helped!

I'm 99.44% sure that replacing the reverse board in earlier BEEP locomotives will cure the speed issue.  They're still very light little units that don't have much pulling power, but you can add more weight.  I added about eight ounces of lead weights to my command upgrades, but without traction tires they still aren't pulling fools.

WIMPY! WIMPY! WIMPY!

Also wondering if the Dalee boards would make a difference.

Any decent reverse board will really make a difference.

Ok, but John and D500,  how do you find the later BEEPs, with the factory installed better board?  Is there a number designation, such as a product number, or an identifying mark on the unit?  I really like the looks of the BEEP, and if I could get one that would travel at a decent speed I'm pretty sure it would pass over the track switches without the dreaded pause.  A slight hickup is OK. 

John, when you bought your later made unit, did you know you were getting a later unit, or was it just luck of the draw?

I don't need much pulling power.  My trains average about six short cars.

Mannyrock

Those aren't Beeps!  This is a Beep!

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Any decent reverse board will really make a difference.

Thanks John. Learn something new here all the time. I just accepted the speed as normal, but I was planning on doing some Dallee installs soon so I'll add my BEEPs to the list.

@Mannyrock posted:

Ok, but John and D500,  how do you find the later BEEPs, with the factory installed better board?  Is there a number designation, such as a product number, or an identifying mark on the unit?  I really like the looks of the BEEP, and if I could get one that would travel at a decent speed I'm pretty sure it would pass over the track switches without the dreaded pause.  A slight hickup is OK.

Now you're asking marketing questions, that I can't answer.

The one I showed you was the one from O-Line Reproductions, apparently the factory selling off production that RMT didn't take at some point.   I think if the unit has the tether for multiple operation, it'll probably have the larger reverse board.

@Mannyrock posted:

John, when you bought your later made unit, did you know you were getting a later unit, or was it just luck of the draw?

I don't need much pulling power.  My trains average about six short cars.

It was strictly the luck of the draw what electronics were in them.  Since I plan on modifying all of these, it's a moot point which reverse board they have, none of them will have conventional operation when I get done with them.

Found an old thread on another board, where an RMT rep said that the BEEP (originally released in 2003) was upgraded by RMT in 2010, to include the upgraded board and two connection components to the rollers.

Now, how to find one of these?

Mannyrock

Well, you can buy a new BEEP from RMT, they have a bunch of them listed.

BEEP Locomotive Stock at RMT

I have a SEPTA BEEP that my daughter bought new for me from the SEPTA store in center city Philly in 2016.  It is one of the slow pokes.  I also found that if you run it on a DCS layout (fixed voltage track using a ZW to vary voltage) it will only run in forward unless you have a lighted car on the track.

John,  RMT stopped manufacturing these back in 2016, and may just be clearing out old stock.  I think it may be possible that they are just selling out everything in the warehouse, including the older versions.  Remember, the one I just bought and returned was definitely New In Box.   (And, it seems like Ebay is loaded with New In Box Shells,)

BUT, in the link you posted, it shows that RMT is selling the complete powered chassis, without the shell.  And, they have a nice clear picture of the unit, including the board.

Is it possible to tell from looking at this photo whether this is one of the older pre-2010 boards, as opposed to the updated board.?  I think you have an updated board in your unit, and you may be able to see enough to compare them.

I already have a NIB RMT Beep shell, that I got off the internet a few weeks ago.  I just need the updated chassis.

Thanks for anything you may be able to add. 

Mannyrock

I think the board that is shown in the RMT link is a third type. It does not match either of the boards John posted earlier.

Chris

LVHR

Chris is right, that looks to have a relay behind the wires, I've never seen that board.

It does look to have the tethers, so it may be newer than the original board.

I'm beginning to think that this hobby is just too hard  :-(

Henry Hill,  "All I ever wanted was to be a gangster."

Me,  "All I  ever wanted was a BEEP that runs at a normal speed."

I have sent an e-mail to the customer service dept of RMT, at the address listed in their ad, asking whether the BEEP chassis have the upgraded board to run at medium and high speeds.

Somehow I doubt I'll get an answer.   Do they even have tech people working anymore at RMT?

Their customer service department may just be sales, returns and refunds.

I'll wait and see.  If I get an answer, I'll post it here.

Mannyrock

I wouldn't hold my breath.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I wouldn't hold my breath.

Ditto.  They have no reason to warranty something purchased through ebay, or something that is long out of production.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

You obviously have a vastly different definition of "slow" than I do. Here's a bog stock BEEP right out of the box running with about 9 volts on the track.

Cute engine and very nice track plan and layout, John. It's going to be gorgeous when you complete it.

Hey Mannyrock:

I couldn't find any contact information (E-mail address) in the RMT link posted. I have one RMT Beep (Chessie System) and one spare shell (NYC), and would like to purchase one of the motorized chassis to fit the spare shell to.

I tried to buy a chassis on their web site, but it appears they post to America and Europe, don't post to Australia....go figure!!

I would like to send them an E-mail to see if they will sell me one, and send it to Australia.

By the way, my little "BEEP" (bought it brand new a few years ago) is also a slow runner, and had trouble trans-versing my Buco turnouts. The roller spacing/width was wrong for the position of the middle rail in my switches, so I removed the rollers and installed "spoons". This fixed the problem!!! Great little "shunter", and does its job well......just not real fast!!!

Peter....Buco Australia

There is one way you can tell if it has the later board and the tethers without opening it up. All the Beeps that I have that came with the factory painted handrails were the newer version. The ones with the unpainted handrails had the older board. I have about 20 Beeps and they all follow that way. The RMT scheme has the old board and the AEC scheme has the new board in the photo.

Dan, it looks like your layout is nuclear powered! My beeps have both unpainted and painted handrails (my AEC beep also have painted). I’ll have check for the board and tether.

I just checked my two beeps, and the painted handrails on my AEC beep are the ones with the later boards and tethers (that enable beeps to hook up to each other, and negotiate switches with gaps). Those drives seem to be the ones on the RMC website. I find they need some lubrication when first bought.

Artie my layout is sci-fi. I spent many years of being prototypical in HO. I decided now in the last stage of my life I will go wild. I combined my favorite things on this layout. Trains, science fiction, NASA and Christmas. In the dark the layout lights up like Christmas. Here is another AEC favorite of mine the RMT Buddy radiation detection car.

Dan, I think we’re on the same wavelength. Here’s my Area 51 portable layout, which becomes my Christmas layout, my moving a few panels. I also have a incomplete day HO layout, which represents the Lackawanna around 1958. I spend more time with my three rail layout, which is more open to other roads. That layout is 5x9’, but I’ll be adding another 5x9’ extension with Gargraves track, and Ross switches. Nice layout by the way, and that Buddy is fun!

Dan,

First, nice layout theme! Well executed. I like your use of the trestle bridges in the back. That must have taken you a while to build.

Second, I think your generalization regarding chrome hand rails and wimpy boards is correct. I dug out one of my BEEPS last night, and sure enough, it has chrome hand rails, a wimpy board, and runs poorly. Now I need to decide whether to leave it conventional or install TMCC in it.

Chris

LVHR

All three of my BEEPs have chrome rails and the smaller boards. Don't know if I would go to TMCC with them at the moment since I run conventional, but Dallee boards are definitely in their future.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

All three of my BEEPs have chrome rails and the smaller boards. Don't know if I would go to TMCC with them at the moment since I run conventional, but Dallee boards are definitely in their future.

Time for you to discover the joys of running command!

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Time for you to discover the joys of running command!

It's past time John. soon....

The BEEP can be your first convert.   You can actually fit a surprising amount of stuff into the BEEP if you work at it.  Check out what you can cram into a BEEP.

Cruise Commander Lite Beta Test, Part Deux

The BEEP I bought and sent back for slow speed had absolutely beautiful chrome hand rails.

Buco,

Here is the e-mail address of RMT that I found by fishing around on the site.

rmt-direct@readymadetoys.com

They have never answered my e-mail to them though, so it may be that they are no longer answering questions.

Mannyrock

Artie I like your Area 51 - Christmas layout. Pegasus did came out with a 1:48 scale Martian war machine a few years ago. From the 1953 movie War of the Worlds. I love the Beeps and they do run a lot smoother tethered together with the newer boards.

John,

I was on the ERR website.  To install TMCC, looks like the Mini Commander is what I what. But what else do I purchase? What comes with the MCII? I presume I'll need to purchase some type of connectors to wire everything together. I can assemble stuff like this, but spec'ing it out is something different. I'd like to have sounds, headlights/marker lights, and electro couplers. I don't want the strobe. The cab interior lights are "nice to have", but are definitely lower priority.

Chris

LVHR

Good luck on the electrocouplers, you'll have to make those yourself!  The oddball couplers will require something like I did for the Williams 44-ton locomotive, that was a lot of work.  I looked at it for the BEEP and realized that wasn't happening without significant hand fabrication.

The MC-II comes with a connector with wires.  Obviously, if you want separate marker lights, you'll have to add some wiring for those.  You'll also have to do some special wiring for the RS Commander for the serial data, but only a couple wires.  I presume you saw my link in the previous post one the "deluxe" upgrade for the BEEP.

Thanks Mannyrock......I'll give it a go and see what happens. If I get a response I'll let you know.

Peter.....Buco Australia

Just discovered another oddity with these little buggers.

One of these is marked long hood forward and the other short hood. My third is also long hood.

This has been a really great thread.   Everybody joined in an added their knowledge about BEEPs to give a more complete picture what they are comprised of.

We could now publish a pamphlet entitled "Everything BEEP".

Maybe put it here in the archives.

I think the F was based on the way that the specific RR ran their GP style locomotives.   I'm curious is all your BEEP's start up in the right direction based on the direction painted on the shell.

I did find these in my BEEP box...

OK John.  I give up. What are they?  :-)

All I can recognize are some teather thingee's.

Are these factory or custom?

Mannyrock

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I think the F was based on the way that the specific RR ran their GP style locomotives.   I'm curious is all your BEEP's start up in the right direction based on the direction painted on the shell.

Good point and good question John. Time to put them on the rails again and see. I believe the shells are reversible so the direction can be changed easily enough if necessary.

Bob

If I had to guess, Gen II boards from original BEEP production.

Chris

LVHR

These actually are the later boards from the ones with the tether, they move the BEEP along at a good clip, not like the original board.

This is the original board that shipped with the early 2000 BEEP.  This is also the board that runs them at a snail's pace.

If someone really wanted to upgrade their BEEP, I could take the tethers, etc. out of the chassis these were in, I'm going to remove them before I use them anyway as I'll be doing command in them.

I have a large collection of well running RMT Beeps, but never considered converting them to command. Will have to give this some thought as there are so many systems that would do the job.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I think the F was based on the way that the specific RR ran their GP style locomotives.   I'm curious is all your BEEP's start up in the right direction based on the direction painted on the shell.

For the record, one of three were correct based on the "F". I will swap them when I upgrade the boards.

Bob

More BEEP info.

As we know, RMT is advertising BEEP shells, some remaining BEEP engines, and BEEP chassis for sale.  It is not clear whether these are the original slow-mo units that they first started selling in 2003, or the upgraded BEEP units that they started selling in 2010.

Because I know that I will eventually find an upgraded BEEP, I went ahead and ordered from RMT a shell for the Sante Fe line.  These are a little hard to find.

Well, I received it today, and it has chrome wire rails, so it looks like old stock from the original slow BEEPs. 

And, guess what the engine number is?         2003. 

I believe RMT or whoever owns them now is just clearing out everything BEEP from the warehouse, and most of it is probably the old stuff.

Their "customer service" has yet to reply to my e-mail of 4 days ago, asking whether the current BEEP locomotives for sale are the upgraded units.  Pretty clear that I'll never hear back.

Im trying to decide now whether or not to buy one of the chassis, and if turns out to be the slow type, try to send it back as a dissatisfied customer.    There is a phone number for customer service, so I guess I'll call Monday.  $120 bucks plus shipping is kind of a big gamble for me to take, toy-wise.

Mannyrock

You can take a chance on my newer BEEP reverse boards for a lot less money.

Hey Mannyrock:

Here are a couple of photos of my RMT BEEP.

It was originally shelled with the black "New York Central" body when I bought it brand new a few years ago, but I wanted the bright yellow "Chessie System" body when they became available, cause I think that railroad colour scheme is really neat.

Anyway, I purchased the "Chessie System" body last year and swapped it over, easy peezy!!! I also removed the original roller pick-ups, as it was "stalling" when going through my Buco brass rail turn-outs. I swapped them for a set of brass "spoons" used on my Buco loco's (Swiss brand of tinplate trains), and it just glides through the turn-outs now, even at low speed.

Also, my BEEP starts-up in the direction of the "F" painted at the front of the cab chassis.

I have also attached a small/rough video of my BEEP circumnavigating my Buco layout at full speed (10V) and, as you will see, it's not about to set any land speed records.....but I still love it!!!

I am waiting to hear back from RMT in response to the E-mail I sent them as well.....fingers crossed.

Peter.......Buco Australia.

The original "New York Central" body stored in the replacement "Chessie System" box.

The original RMT BEEP box the "New York Central" loco came in.

John,   I may well end up buying one of your reverse boards before my BEEP mess is over with, but I would need a set of instructions for installation that any 6th grader could follow. :-)

Bucco,  it is funny that you mention tinplate.  I am putting together a tinplate train of cars, and I don't want to fool with buying a tinplate locomotive.  Most of them look pretty terrible to me.     I am getting a BEEP because it is the only modern loco I have seen that actually looks tinplate-ish, in both size, brightness and design.  Before I sent my new BEEP back, I had it pull the tinplate cars around for a minute or two, and it looked great.

Thanks,

Mannyrock

Bucco,  I think you got one of the later made BEEPs, because that is very good speed.

The one I sent back traveled at 1/3rd that speed, on 16 volts!

Buco,

Please pull the shell off and take a picture of the board. Post it and we can tell you which version you have.

Chris

LVHR

In researching BEEPs, I saw this ad on Worthpoint.

"RMT Halloween Beep Diesel Locomotive New In Box. The locomotive is 3 rail O scale. Unit #1031, Stock #92472 HALLOWEEN Railroad painting and lettering in a unique 'spooky' paint scheme.RMT-92472 HALLOWEEN #1031 features upgraded speed control and electrical pickup. "

I note that in pictures, both the orange and yellow models of the Halloween BEEPs have painted rails.

So, it looks like the Halloween BEEPs are the upgraded models.

Thx,

Mannyrock

More BEEP info:

My research shows that RMT and Aristocraft entered into a Joint Marketing Agreement in March of 2010, which included sharing a production facility in China.  A short time thereafter, the price of the BEEPs jumped from $60 to $100. 

The wording on the Box was also changed to say:   "BEEP GP 7/9 Diesel Locomotive" on the front.

I think that the BEEPs sold in these boxes, at the higher price, were the upgraded units.

If anybody has a BEEP, with this wording on the original box, it would be great if you would let us know how fast it will run.

Thanks,

Mannyrock

Hi Chris (lehighline):

Sorry for the tardy reply, but "life" just got in the way the past couple of days.

Here are the photos you asked for......it looks to me that I also have the pi..y little circuit board.

                The end of the original box with loco description and bar code

The back of the original box with all of the instructions on how to get the body off and back on the chassis, and the use/location of the "on-off switch" for the different types of operation.

View of the chassis with the body removed...note I have removed the knuckle coupler from the rear of the chassis and replaced it with a "drop-link hook" coupling to mate with my Buco wagons.

    Better shot of the circuit board and motors. I think I have the weak circuit board??

Hope this is enough to determine which circuit board I have in my BEEP.

Peter......Buco Australia

Buco,

That's definitely the original design "wimpy" board.  A board upgrade will definitely help this engine.

Chris

LVHR

Just bought a NIB Halloween Beep on E-Bay, for $125.   Description says it was made in 2015, and is an Aristo-RMT Beep.  .  Front of Box says Beep GP 7/9 Diesel Locomotive.  (It was listed at $175 or Best Offer.  I threw in the low offer and it was accepted.)

It will arrive by April 27th.     I'll see how fast it runs, and take a picture of the circuit board, and post the info here.

Luckily, the Seller info says that anything can be returned if the Buyer is not 100% satisfied with it.  So, I feel pretty safe about returning it if it runs slowly.

I have no use for the Halloween decorated shell, because I already have the Sante Fe shell I want. So, if I keep the Beep, I'll post the Halloween shell for sale in the For Sale section.   

Thanks,

Mannyrock

This thread got me wondering, so I got my "Beep" out of storage, ran it, and took a look under the shell.

Appears I may have the older version as well, but it runs fine for me, controlled starts and good speed without a load.

The weight plates have some surface rust that I'll clean up before repacking.

Now I recall why it's not a favorite, jerky operation on my RealTrax turnouts, a behavior that will keep it in the box.

Here's a little video with two BEEP engines I have, the PP&L one is the original BEEP Commander and BEEP sound board that ERR did years ago, the PRR one is one I upgraded with the ERR Cruise Commander Lite and RailSounds Commander as a test of what would fit into the little engine.  It got some greatly enhanced lighting as well.

Since the drivetrains are identical as well as the motors, one can only assume that it's the electronics that determines the top speed.  It appears the Cruise-Lite wins the speed race, it caught up with the BEEP Commander equipped one after a couple of laps.

Nice John. Trackage looks great too.

Thanks Don, since we were talking about BEEP speeds, I figured I'd give those a run.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I did find these in my BEEP box...

John, I know your post here was quite a while ago, but do you still have one of these boards and is swapping just "plug-and-play?" I just purchased a tuscan PRR #2004 BEEP with chromed handrails, so it will likely have the problem board. Since I just have Z-1000 power, I can't run ERR boards without an upgrade to Legacy which I'm not in a financial position to do right now. The ERR boards themselves are also rather pricey considering I paid just over $85 delivered for the BEEP. Please let me know price & shipping if you still have a board and installation will be fairly straightforward.

Thanks,

ERR boards also run in conventional, legacy is not required to run them.

But, if the boards are good and the beep runs, why change them out?

@Bill Swatos posted:

John, I know your post here was quite a while ago, but do you still have one of these boards and is swapping just "plug-and-play?" I just purchased a tuscan PRR #2004 BEEP with chromed handrails, so it will likely have the problem board. Since I just have Z-1000 power, I can't run ERR boards without an upgrade to Legacy which I'm not in a financial position to do right now. The ERR boards themselves are also rather pricey considering I paid just over $85 delivered for the BEEP. Please let me know price & shipping if you still have a board and installation will be fairly straightforward.

Thanks,

Send an email to my profile address, I'm out of town until Tuesday, so I'll check when I get back.

@Bill Swatos posted:

John, I know your post here was quite a while ago, but do you still have one of these boards and is swapping just "plug-and-play?" I just purchased a tuscan PRR #2004 BEEP with chromed handrails, so it will likely have the problem board. Since I just have Z-1000 power, I can't run ERR boards without an upgrade to Legacy which I'm not in a financial position to do right now. The ERR boards themselves are also rather pricey considering I paid just over $85 delivered for the BEEP. Please let me know price & shipping if you still have a board and installation will be fairly straightforward.

Thanks,

Didnt take too long Bill... 🤣🤣🤣welcome to the BEEP club.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

Didnt take too long Bill... 🤣🤣🤣welcome to the BEEP club.

Bob

Thanks, Bob! I was just thinking that if the BEEPs with the "problem" boards run at about half-speed of the newer ones, could the older ones have the two motors wired in series? That wouldn't bother me if the older board doesn't fail under the current load needed to pull a few easy-rolling boxcars at a speed that would approximate scale for the little switcher. From what I understand, Kusan, the originator of the BEEP, intended these little guys to be switchers. Here's a good article on the history of Kusan; they made a LOT more than BEEPs:

http://www.tcawestern.org/kusan.htm

@Darrell posted:

ERR boards also run in conventional, legacy is not required to run them.

But, if the boards are good and the beep runs, why change them out?

Thanks for the insight on the ERR boards; it wasn't clear from the info I had seen that they, like Legacy boards, could run in conventional. And, as my post just prior to this indicates, I'm thinking of taking your advice if the newer board swap doesn't seem like it will work out.