Very frustrated. Got a very desirable Mollie a few years back (brand new from 3rd Rail). Put it on the track and the bell never stops ringing, the whistle does not work and the chuffs sounds compete with static. Sent it back to be fixed, got it back and nothing changed. I have silently put up with it for the last several years. I tried the TMCC reset and it did not change anything. Looks great, runs great but sounds like sh!t. Oh, I use Atlas track, a ZW-C, have Legacy and TMCC engines and all work wonderfully...except for this turkey. Not sending it back again. Anyone have any insight on this? I can't even figure out how to open the tender and I've already broken a detail from handling too much. First failure I've ever had and I am definitely not happy. BigRail
Were it mine, I'd reach out directly to Scott Mann. FWIW, it won't hurt to change batteries in the remote....
The combination you are using should work as that is what I have. ZW-C with 135 bricks, running TMCC then switched to Legacy.
You might ask the guys at 3rd rail under what conditions was the engine tested?
Do you have another layout near that you can test on?
If that fails, I suspect you may need to return the engine again... I know you said you would not want to do that, but you may not have any other choice if the above fails.
The first thing I would do is to remove the tender shell so you can get to the TMCC electronics. Try reseating any circuit boards and check to make sure all the wiring connectors are seated properly. Also while you're in the tender does the engine have a Train America or Electric Railroad electronics.
Thanks guys. I'll have to really examine the tender over the weekend. However it comes apart is not obvious. If I didn't have to get at the electronics I'd say that's a good thing. BigRail
3rd Rail and most other brass engine makers use smaller screws than what you you usually find in die cast tenders. The ones to look for for will be in the 4 corners of the underside. There may be more along the side in the middle depending if its a longer tender like a SF Northern. Maybe one pair or rarely two extra pairs of screws.
If you are still not sure then turn the tender over and take a picture and post it here.
Every 3rd Rail Steam loco tender I have seen has a 4 screws on the bottom frame of the tender. Each screw is near the corners of the tender.
You may want to carefully inspect the tender antenna arrangement. 3rd Rail isolates the whole shell, frame, and axles from the wheels on some of their engines. If it has been disassembled and put back together incorrectly, you may be intermittently shorting the antenna. Some of these tenders seem to be double insulated/isolated from the trucks too. The electrocoupler also has isolators and insulated bushings for the coupler screws. I have a few tenders like this I can think of (L3b Mohawk, Q1 off the top of my skull, both with OEM EOB) and had to be mindful when converting to Kadees. These tenders do not pick up ground because of this arrangement, and can cause all kinds of grief on dirty track.
Constant bell usually means it is seeing a DC offset which could be a pinched motor wire. It also matters which system is in it. Old TAS or newer ERR. SOunds like probably TAS. G
Thank you for all the replies. I will work on this over the weekend and let you know the results. BigRail