How Do You Test A New Engine?

Good morning KC. I always wondered what others do. I open and get it right on the tracks as soon as I can. I run it over every secition of the layout in each direction and test out all the listed functions including the smoke. I also run them in reverse around the layout with some cars and at slower speeds. About 25% of the time I find some small issue and every so often a dud lol. I wish I had the self control to put them aside as an investment but I like playing with my toys. And you?

rick

I test run it for a while and oil & grease it after.

I noticed my LHS will repair MTH & Lionel engines under warranty even if you did not buy it there. I heard him over the phone talking to others a few times as long as you purchased it from an authorized location and have the bill, he will fix it.

This has taken the stress out of it for me and as a result, I don't worry ... 

I also purchased my last two engines from him as well.

Oil & lube 1st, then program it & run it around, trying the sounds, bell, & horn.

I inspect the outside for blemishes or imperfections - New or used.

Inspect to see if lubrication is needed. 

I buy MTH engines so after it is recognized by the TIU, I check the Chronometer and Odometer to see just "how new" the engine is.

Then we run it and blow the horn/whistle and sound the bell until our ears bleed.

Ron

I take it out of the box, check for parts that fell off in transit, etc.  

I unwrap and remove all the foam protective pieces, etc.  

I inspect and "fiddle" with it, checking for parts that are loose, looking at the tender-loco or unit-to-unit connectors and rollers, etc. 

I read or scan the Owners manual as I think best in the circumstances, particularlt to make sure I know where all the switches are, etc. 

I swtiche all the switches as I want them.  I adjust volume and smoke output reostats to halfway.

I lube it whether it needs it or not. 

I clean the wheels and rollers - yes its new, but sometimes there is a preservative or something on them.

I put it on the track, connect all connectors, check its on right, and power it up.  I wait as you often have to.  

I check the lights, etc., listen to the sound and watch the smoke.  I test the bell and horn.  I operate it forwards, back, observing it closely.  

I connect a load to it - usually about 15-20 cars.  I set it in motion at about 11-12 volts normally II run conventionally) and follow it around the layout, watching it carefully.  

I then let it run like this for an hour.  I check it at the beginning and an intervals for temperature rise, using an infra red sensor gun. Typically there is no more than a maximum eight degree F heat rise, and its usually mostly in the tender near where the boards are.  Locos tend to heat about 5 degrees near the motor and more near the smoke unit if its cooking.  (If I see much ore temp than this I stop the test - this has happened only once: a WBB trainmaster I could find nothing wrong with that eventually burned out both its motors).

Assuming all is good I leave the loco running.  I check and lube it again at the end of an hour.  Then leave it running with its load for several hours.

I give them a few minutes to review the material then I give them a number 2 pencil .... .... Kidding ....

I do what others have said ... Usually give it a good workout for about 20 to 30 minutes testing all features.  

Like Spence, I apply lube and oil to the proper areas before I place it on the tracks.  Then I'll normally run it for about 30 minutes, testing features, smoke, horn, bell, directional lighting, what have you.  Start stop - reverse and so on. 

I also immediately start a new page for the locomotive in my maintenance log noting the date purchased and any prep work I did before placing it on the tracks.  I have found this to be an invaluable way to keep my engines properly maintained.

Curt

From the box right to the track, then I run it playing all of its DCS features.

Exactly what SPENCE said.  Light on the lube and oil.

K.C.,

Since I've never owned a new engine my steps are different. Be it early Std or O-Gauge I disassemble and remove every bit of the aged lubrication. Next I inspect and repair all of the bad wiring with era correct cloth covered wire. I disassemble and inspect the vintage motor(s) replacing worn parts as needed. Once everything is satisfactory I reassemble and lubricate to original specifications. Now for the moment of truth. I place the engine on the track and run for ten-minutes in each direction. When completed I check everything one more time. If satisfactory I place the engine on one of my shelves and move to the next.

God Bless,

"Pappy"

As a newbie, what type of oil and lubricant do you use ?  Also, what parts need oil and lubricant ?  How often does an engine need oil and lubricant ?  

Mike

I always grease/oil first. I have received numerous new engines with not a speck of grease on the gears. I've gotten so that I check them all, regardless.

Gilly

" never opened collectable".....what a joke that is

This is how I do it too. All of my engines have been new purchases. Sometimes on the MTH Premier engines I try to install the snow plow, then usually give up and put the plow back in storage. Not sure I have ever successfully got one installed properly?

I open the box and check for missing parts then lube it,on steam I lube the side rods then run through the main lines looking for obstructions,especially on articulated locos and switch problems.To This day my MTH 4-12-2 will not go through a Ross 096 left switch,pilot truch jumps off.

All:  I read the manual cover to cover before I even get it (most are all online anymore).  Once I have it I open it up and put it on the track and run it, trying all features.  Only exception is PS-1 equipped, I replace the battery as soon as it comes out of the box.

Used and old new stock: After trying it out and running it a bit, I open them up and grease the gears and oil everything else.  Then I run them around the track again and call them good to go.

New: Oil grease if the manual says to, otherwise keep running it and enjoying it.

New is a relative term for me. All of my stuff is pre-owned (nice way of saying "used!"), but when I get something that's new to me I place it on the track and turn up the power to see if it moves. Once it moves I shut off the power and try it again to see if it changes direction. I try it a few more times forward and reverse. Once that is done I make note of any issues and I take it apart and clean and lube it. Perhaps a shot or two of contact cleaner if the E-unit sticks. Then I try it again on the track. I add smoke fluid if there's a smoker. Once it makes a few trips around the outer loop in both directions I start hooking up cars for it to pull to see how it does. Usually that's all that's needed, but then I mostly buy Marx locos that are almost too basic to fail!  LOL

I like to look over a loco before buying it, so most are bought at local train shows. As long as all the wheels are there (and turn freely) and it doesn't look like it was recovered from the Titanic, I might buy it if it's something I'm looking for. If there's a test track available I generally make use of it.

LaBelle #106 grease on gears, 30 weight non-detergent motor oil on bearings.

Mike,

I've used Lucas' Red N' Tacky #2 for many years. I use it for areas needing heavy lubrication (gear boxes & such).

For items needing a light oil for lubrication (drive rods, etc) I use Lucas' Gun Oil. I prefer Lucas Petroleum Products because they "stick" where they belong. Less drips mean cleaner trains & track.

There are no set schedules for lubricating ones trains. Keep an eye on your trains and you will spot when your trains need serviced.

God Bless,

"Pappy"

For Starters my LHS usually lets me test them on his loop at the store.

Just a quick load into DCS and run Forward , Back, Bell, Whistle, Couplers.

Then we box it back up to go home.

At Home, Open immediately, look for damage, Oil with CLP and Lube with Red N Tacky @2, add Smoke Fluid, all per the manual.

If it's MTH I Load it into DCS, check Time and Odometer to Verify New Status if appropriate.

Run it forward and back, add whatever consist is on the track and run it for a while, trying all the DCS commands.

While it runs I arrange the sounds and other softkeys to my preferred pattern.

When that's done I run it in reverse for a few minutes to verify sustained operation.

It then stays on the track for some time and gets used as a go to engine for a while.

Lube, oil and run, checking all of the features.  Red N' Tacky 2, and Labelle oil.

George

I visually inspect it. Put it on the track unloaded (no cars) and run it forwards for twenty minutes, backwards for twenty minutes, forward, etc, testing for hot spots every few minutes. After an hour or so, I take it off the track, lubricate it and then it's good to go.

Exact same as Spence:

Oil & lube 1st, then program it & run it around, trying the sounds, bell, & horn.

Yep Spence has it down to a "T".

Jack

Where and how do you test for hot spots? On the engine? What should one look for?

In another past thread someone said they always take the shell off and examine everything inside, Said they had found all kinds of stuff like pinched wires, wires rubbing on the motors, loose connections etc. Might be something to think about? I have been thinking about that since I read it.

Also, forgot to add smoke fluid in my first post above, I usually also test the smoke unit on first run. That is if I can figure out if it has a smoke unit. Just had one that had conflicting documentation, and thanks to the OGR forum members it's all figured out and working better now and I learned a few things in the process.

I just feel it, sniff it, listen to it, watch how smoothly it runs at different speeds. That sort of thing.

I had a Weaver steam engine that ran rough as a cob and continued to do so, no matter how much I oiled it. So I got disgusted and set it on some JAX rollers on the workbench, turned up the power and just let it run/shake/moan/vibrate for an hour or so. Eventually it began to run more smoothly and finally turned into a nicely running engine.

Tear the box open throw it out with the instructions and receipt,smell it, put it on the track and run the sh** out of it.Nick

Read over the instructions, oil & lube as needed, at JT's Mega-Steam Smoke. Place on a main line track. Than radio the engineer to get it up and running. lol

Cheers from Michigan

Lube,oil then put it on the track and make sure everything is working correctly.

Visual inspection, check all switches (smoke usually moved to "off"), place on track,

check all basic functions, run around layout several times without lubing, both directions, listen for squeaks and bad noises, remove from track and lubricate. Wonder if I want

to change it in any way...

================

"Collectible"...Snort.

Care for it, use but don't abuse it (no "I pulled 500 cars with my 4-10-10-6!"), run the wheels off of it. Wear it out.

THEN you can put it on the shelf and admire ("collect") it - and it's scrapes and dents - and all the fun you had with it.

There is something that I don't like about having all these beautiful things: I have too

many of them to really get to know ANY of them like I knew my childhood 2055 Hudson.

(I took it apart several times, too - just to do it.) 

But if I run only a handful, that seems silly. 

Well, I start by checking for any damage to the unit.  Then I will lube and service as needed.  

Add it to the dcs and go for a quick run.  

Then,park the new engine in the middle of the yard so that they wife won't notice anything new!!! Haha jk.  

This is a very compelling question because lets face it, most people obviously must purchase their locomotives first, then bring them home and then do what ever test they feel are necessary to ensure they have a reliable locomotive.

Personally, I run a basic series of simple try me type test, followed by a really close inspection of the body, chassis, trucks and truck frames as well as all those minute little details around the cab. Followed by a full light and sound test. I want to make sure my locomotives perform all the functions they are supposed to.

If a locomotive does not meet my criteria, I have several options. I can return it and exchange it for another. I can send it to the manufacturer for a complete repair. I can try and repair the locomotive myself or in the end, I can just live with it.

Many test are necessary, but anything can happen to a locomotive well after such test are performed. I once purchased a new SD70Ace MTH set with Inter modal cars. Well she passed all those basic test and one day, I wanted to play around, so I started her up and the left ditch light would not come on. So I flicked it a little and she came on, but only long enough to run a few feet and out she went. So, I drove to MTH in Columbia MD and they fixed her up real nice and at no cost being that she was under warranty.

The point is: One can run all the test they want and still come across a problem or two or three......LOL

Anyway, I think a basic check is in order and if the new locomotive does not perform as advertised, send her back and replace it or get her repaired under a warranty.

Pete

Boxes?  We don't need no stinkin' boxes . . .

I was embarrassed a bit though - about a year ago I bought nine map-slogan reefers and when they arrived literally tore them opene and put the cars on the track so I could run them with my others . . . I posted a picture of my now nicely long string of ATSF cars, etc.   . . . . leaving for all the world to see in the bottom of the photo the big pile of boxes on the floor with their guts ripped out.  I got more comments on that than the train! 

I just had a new MTH engine picked up with 44 minutes of run time and almost 5 miles on the odometer out of the box. LHS gave replaced it with no question. He's a great guy and was embarrassed he sold me a new used engine.

What he did is take a new engine, open it up, inspect, put on the track and test couplers, lights, horn, bell. Then ran it around the loop a couple of times forward and reverse. The smoke was on and puffing when the engine was started up. He then picked it up told me to lube / oil and I'm all set.

Good topic, t hanks.

Paul

When I receive a new modern engine, I do a lot of the tests posted above. But being new, they are expected to work. Lately, though, I've gotten back into a lot of Postwar Lionel purchases and my routine for these "new" engines is quite different. I really enjoy the challenge of getting these vintage engines running to my liking. So.....

1. I've already checked the photos of the engine to see what parts I might need for an initial parts order (as well as the usual brushes and springs,pickup rollers). I like to have them the day the engine arrives

2. Unpack it and see if anything has changed since the photos (externally)

3. Put it on the track with no lube or adjustment and power up (just to see what I'm facing mechanically)

4. Take the shell off and wash it with dish soap and a soft toothbrush and possibly polish

5. Remove the trucks and soak them in mineral spirits and then alcohol to loosen old lube and dirt, clean them out, brass wheel Dremel the wheels and then relube. Rewire, if necessary, the power wires from the rollers and the sliding shoe wire.

6. Move on to the e-unit....clean it with contact cleaner and hit the plunger with contact cleaner/lube

7. Remove the motor/motors. Open the brush plate, clean the commutator, lube the bearings, replace the brushes and if necessary, rewire the motor(s).

8. Put it up on my rollers and test the motor(s) and e-unit for proper operation. 

9. Move on to the horn (which could take longer than any of the above). Clean and adjust relay and solder on jumper wires to shorten the conductivity path for these finicky horns. Adjust the screw to "taste" (assuming it works).

10. Put the chassis on my layout and run it through it's paces. This step to me is the most enjoyable part of it. If all that works, the shell goes back on, a consist goes behind and I'll sit back and watch it. 

With new modern engines, the testing is basically step 2 and 3. If those engines don't work properly at that point, I'll fix what I can or......send it back.

Roger

I basically due the usual mentioned already, but most important to me is any new engine must be at room temperature before initial break in.

Art