How to attach tables together

For removable table section consider making the frame like a keystone so it can roll out easily on NON swivel wheels.  The keystone angle does not have to be much. A two inch differential will allow smooth extraction.

For alignment one of the methods I use for semi permanent positioning is 1/2" wood dowels.  Leave then almost flush when rolling into position then tap them home once in place.  Simply tap them back for removal.  One every foot or so along a separating line.

For frequent removal and replacement I use square brass dowels from Freeman.  They need to be installed perpendicular to the sliding action.

I use the keystone fit for liftouts also:

I usually use a 5 degree face for lift/slide outs.  In this lift out section there are two brass dowels on a vertical plane at each end, one in each corner.

If it's just to keep the wheeled section from moving accidentally by bumping/etc., couldn't you just drill holes in the sides of the frames where the moving table butts up against the stationary table and just use a bolt and nut?  Easy enough to remove when the day comes you need to move the table with wheels.

Depending on how tight the fit with the moving table is where it adjoins the stationary one, maybe you would use washers as shims/spacers in between the tables so you aren't' pulling them toward one another in a way that could harm things.

Think this order (described as the bolt would insert from one side to the other):  Bolt head, washer (so bolt head is not right against wood when tightening), wood frame for first table, possible washers as spacers, wood frame for second table, washer (so nut will not rub against wood when tightening, nut.

-Dave

Do these work ?

https://www.amazon.com/Lheng-T...12A3GGRBQS0WGJN1F2C9

My entire layout, which is composed of 20+ tables of varying lengths and widths (most of them 4'x8'), all of them topped with sheets of 3/4" plywood surface, are held together in-concert with these "Carriage Bolts," as a nearby lumber-store called them, which could be easily slid-out for release of their common connection, whenever I wanted to move   elements around. In these two shots, you see the ones that hold the (2x4) legs to the frames (2x4s)       FrankM

Standard 4" to 5" C-clamps.  Fort Pitt Highrailers have two, 5 gallon buckets, of C-clamps, used to connect modules.  At least 2 clamps, per joint.  Large joints, where the modules exceed 2 ft in width,  3 or 4 C-clamps.  

What Richie C recommends works well. Most hardware stores have them. I think they are called trunk locks or hasps. The best part is that the throw is about equal to the length of the average rail joiner and aid in pulling the rails together when thrown.  I have a pair on a switching module that I used for years to teach proper radio procedures at NHRS rail camps.      

Our BCMRRC layout uses clamps to hold the sections together.

I have also seen the use of door hinges, with one leaf installed on each section.  Tap the hinge pin out to separate the sections.  Provides for very precise realignment.