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Hi Guys

I had planned to use a spdt toggle switch to isolate my staging yards on my dcs learning layout.  I had planned to open the center rail and attach my switch posts to either side of the open.  Simple enough for me.  With so much info on this forum about led's I decided to try a led rocker switch instead of the toggle.  I purchased a 30A 12V DC switch.  Hope this is one I can use.  How to hook it up similar to the spdt is a mystery to me.  Never done led's before.  On the back side of my rocker switch I have top post that I  think is earth.  The next post downward (middle) is load with led.  The bottom post is supply.

How do I wire up this baby?  Of course, I on track AC but my switch is DC???  Also everyone says I need some ohms in there.  Where and how many?

Thanks for your input

Tommy

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Tommy,

    I had six illuminated toggles hooked up to my yard before I discovered they connected to ground when off. Thus, when you came across with any car or engine with two pickups and the switch off you got a dead short. I would recommend testing for continuity between the earth and load terminals with the switch off. If none, use it. You don't need a double throw toggle for what you want. Just hook power to the supply and the siding to load. The ground lights the led when on. Don't forget to cut the center rail at the siding. (I just noticed the 12VDC. The led may not last. Mine did work, but I had to disconnect all the grounds and never had lights after I discovered the shorts). John

 

Last edited by John H

That is the wrong switch for this application.  It is intended for 12 Vdc operation only.

 

Any SPST rocker switch with a built-in lamp (incandescent or LED) is the wrong one for this application.

 

The lamps in these el cheapo / automotive switches are rated at 12 volts, and are wired in parallel with the output of the HOT terminal.  Whatever you put into the IN terminal will be the voltage presented across the lamp.

 

The three terminals are (using automotive terminology) HOT (+12 Vdc) OUT (+ to the device being switched) and GRD (return to negative side of the battery).

 

If you check the archives of this and other forums, there is a wealth of information about this subject, specifically, and switching/pilot lamps, in general.

 

If you want to switch the power to sidings, and have a visual indicator (pilot) you need to use a switch that has two poles, and a separate pilot lamp.

 

You will be disappointed if you do it any other way.

Last edited by Arthur P. Bloom

Actually that switch is just fine for the purpose. Just put the 18vac on the supply, the load on the load ( the track ), and then connect a 1N4003 diode to 18vac common with the cathode of the diode on common. The half wave rectified 18 vac RMS voltage is well under the 12 vdc the LED is rated for and the 1N4003 will protect the LED against the excessive back voltage.

i have used a dozen of this same switch that way for over 6 years with no issues. And you only need one diode for a bank of the switches with all the earths connected together.

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