Merry Christmas to all!

I am working on my Lionmaster N&W Class A 1234 6-38049 I cannot find the wiring diagram on Lionels website. I am troubleshooting a smoke unit issue and doing a ERRCo CC-M upgrade and would like to have the diagram. I understand there are some differences in the pinouts from the DCDS board to the CC-M.  

Henry Ferguson 

Original Post

Looks like you'll have to remove the black ground wire from Pin-10 of J4, that is a ground that will toast the CC-M!

The CC-M instructions show you how to splice the 4-pin black molex into the existing wires that feed the 6-pin Molex on the DCDS.

Other than that, I don't see any issues you should have to contend with.


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Thanks GUNRUNNERJON. I have done that already. I found that the marker light voltage output on the CC-M was 9.5V instead of the 2.3V out of the DCDS and the headlight positive was feed from the DCDS board pin 8 instead of pin  3 on the CC-M. I got The CC-M working. Marker light #1 output is actually the headlight as it cycles on and off with the AUX 2 and the headlight button using the MTH DCS app. I had to use a diode and a 330 ohm resistor with a new set of marker lights now they work as well. I’m still trying to troubleshoot the smoke unit.  I seems that the regulator is bad. I have no voltage at the smoke unit no matter if I’m running command or conventional. Smoke on/off switch is good. I’ve seen on some other drawings that the smoke unit can be ran directly from the motherboard instead of using a regulator. Is this possible in this engine? I would like to do the super chuffer upgrade with the chuff generator but for now I would just like to get the smoke unit working. I know that the regulators are an issue and I’m wondered if I can just get rid of it. A1EBD727-5433-45B4-9812-D6BE15CDFBE4DC8240BB-CB6B-4203-B696-72CC93D016E5178A285F-AC13-4186-850C-209D697D74A9


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The marker light output is deceptive, it's current limited.  I've connected many LEDs to the marker outputs of the CC-M, they all survived.

FWIW, the market outputs turn on/off with AUX2, but that doesn't mean they're headlights.

If you want to lose the regulator, you need to do some minor rewiring.  First off, remove the regulator and make sure none of the wires are touching anything.  Find the wire that went to the regulator that powers the the smoke unit element.  This wire will have to be connected to the smoke triac output of the R2LC.  Since I don't know for sure what motherboard is in your locomotive, I can't tell you exactly how to connect it.  Your ohmmeter is your friend, smoke comes out of the R2LC on pins-5/6  Look around for an unused pin on the connectors and see if you have continuity to pins-5/6, that's the smoke output.  That goes to the smoke element.  None of the other connections to the smoke regulator will be used.  If there is no connector output, my choice is to solder the wire to the bottom of the motherboard, don't solder it to the R2LC.


You need to change the resistor in the smoke unit from the 8 ohm resistor to 20 ohms or more, the 8 ohm resistor will go up in flames and take the R2LC with it!

The regulator sure doesn't go there, the CC-M has ditch light outputs on pins 7-8 and 9-10, and they're LED outputs.

The 5V regulator wired to the DCDS isn't needed with the CC-M.  I believe that was supplying the opto isolators of the DCDS, it's not needed in this installation.  I think you'll find the regulator is feeding the DCDS, and none is required for the ERR installation.

Thanks again for you help John! I was able to get it working. I installed a SC2 and a CG also. Everything is working except I am only getting a single pulse of the fan motor when the engine is at idle then the voltage on the fan drops to below .5 vdc. I have tested with 2 different motors with the same result. I can’t seem to figure out what’s happening. Any suggestions?

I think you may need a new smoke fan motor.  I run the fan at a low speed by dropping the power to the fan when stopped.  However, to make sure the fan starts, I give it a brief "kick" of full power to get it spinning, then it gets the lowered power.  If the motor is going bad, sometimes they won't run on the lowered power.

If it's not the fan motor, it could be a bad FET on the Super-Chuffer, I actually had one of those recently, it was caught in testing.  If the fan motor will run on 1.5VDC and doesn't consume more than 40ma, you may have a bad FET, it's the only thing I can think of.  Of course, you could have two bad smoke motors.

Measuring the voltage out of the Super-Chuffer is problematic, it's a PWM voltage, not a plain DC voltage.

The Super-Chuffer doesn't do well in conventional, it's really a command product.  However, you can enhance it's operation for conventional operation by adding a large capacitor to the power supply to allow it to run at lower voltages.   I suggest at 2200uf 35V cap connected as shown.


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