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Hi,

I have a question (or a few) regarding how investment casting master patterns are created.  I understand the overall investment casting process as outlined in the 3rd Rail link below. 

http://www.3rdrail.com/makebrass.htm

However, the one detail that always seems to be glossed over is what medium is the original master pattern generally made from?  I understand that the reusable wax mold is generally made from vulcanized rubber which is then used for making repeated wax positives but what material is generally used to make that very first original master pattern that gets placed in the unvulcanized rubber to create final rubber wax mold?  I have been watching the BrassTrains.com Monday Morning Express episodes and they have done several interviews with people that have made patterns for many of the Asian brass model builders years ago, but the one thing that I have always been curious about is how were those original patterns actually made.  It would be interesting to know that side of the story.

Is the master pattern generally carved from wax a few percent larger then the actual item to be cast and then they investment cast a  brass master right from that original wax carving and then that one brass casting becomes the master used in making the rubber mold?  Or is the slightly oversize master generally fabricated right from brass to begin with and, in turn, the rubber mold is made directly from that slightly oversize brass master?  Since the vulcanization process is done at a high temperature to get the rubber to flow all around the master part to pick up all the detail, then I presume that the master used in the making of the mold cannot be something that would melt at a low temperature, such as polystyrene or even a low temperature melting metal. 

For example, what would the master pattern be made from to make a model of this prototype brake wheel in the link below, or to make an odd shape item like a steam locomotive driver center, or even a steam locomotive tender truck side frame?  Would they be hand carved from wax to make the master pattern or would the master pattern for such a delicate part be fabricated right from brass via hand tools?  I know today that there are 3D wax printers out there that allow you to 3D print a wax pattern from a 3D CAD drawing, which are commonly used in the jewelry industry, but I'm more interested in how things were done before this technology came along. 

https://www.progressiverailroa...product.aspx?id=3159

Thanks.

Scott

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Scott,

If you're going to use vulcanized rubber molds, most patterns are made from metal.  Brass come to mind but it really doesn't matter.  The primary reason is, the vulcanizing process uses heat and pressure.  Plastic, or resin parts, can't withstand either.  Typically, you need to add 5 to 5 1/2% for shrinkage.  In other words, if you're going with vulcanized molds your patterns need to be oversized.

If you use RTV (room temperature vulcanization) you can use plastic or resin parts because there is no heat or pressure used in the creation of making the mold.  Depending on the RTV used your shrinkage will be 1/2 to 2 1/2%.

There is a whole lo more to the overall process but we can go into that later.

Jay

 

I might add that your second option works, with an additional 1/2% shrinkage.  You make the part in plastic or wax, the foundry uses that for a one-shot brass part, you look that over and add brass (in my case journals and brake hangers), and the foundry makes a rubber mold of that.  My PA truck (not nearly as good as CLW, but acceptable) was done that way.

Thanks for the feedback.  I 3D modeled up a brake wheel and gear assembly, so now I have to get some machinable wax and attempt to CNC machine the individual components; gearbox, wheel, and release arm (although I may just try to hand make the release arm from brass).  I have to get some itsy bitsy end mills though.  Funny how the smaller the end mills get the more expensive they become .  I think I'll start with the base gear box assembly as that is the simplest to machine but still has some small details and contours to work around.

Brake Wheel

Scott

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  • Brake Wheel

Hi Bob,

Actually, I will start out with a dumbed-down version of the gear box assembly to keep it simpler and then add the NBW castings and a gear mockup later as a second step - not yet sure if I want to make these add-on parts in brass and solder to the brass casting boxy or make them in wax and have them present for the original casting.  All-in-all, neat stuff....

Thanks Pete DLP casting resin link.   The 3D printing technology  seems to be advancing at all levels.  The professional direct to wax 3D printers used in the jewelry industry were amazing in the level of detail they could print but it still came at a monster cost.  They use an additive and subtractive method (3D print wax layers (additive) and then machine off (subtractive) enough to make each layer super smooth and  uniform for the next layer to be printed which leaves a homogeneous precision wax pattern when it is all done.  They are doing to same additive / subtractive methods with metal 3D printers as well to get precision parts from 3D printed methods - especially cool when multiple metals are used to make something that cannot be done with conventional methods.  For example, I could 3D print this gearbox housing in brass but also print a full outer coating of titanium for added "corrosion resistance" .

Brake Wheel Gearbox

Scott

Attachments

Images (1)
  • Brake Wheel Gearbox

Scott,

If you email I can offer some advice.  I have thousands of rubber molds and have many castings done every week.  I've found, over the years, trying to sort through all of this on forums rarely works out.  Too many people offering advice that don't know what they're talking about.

Jay

Last edited by Jay C

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