Layout materiels

My 1x3 grid is 32" above the floor. I have 1" foam on top of that. The main reason for that height is that is what was needed to clear the dining room table with my temporary layout.   I think a lot of folks get into the 40"-42" range, but I don't believe I've ever seen anything set in concrete. I have back problems, so I have to sit a lot and the 32" is a comfort height for viewing while sitting. If you have multiple levels, you need to consider the viewing height of the top level as well as reach issues for that level.

I prefer post and beam construction with 2x4 legs, 2x4 beams with 1x4 edge-mounted joists 16" on center covered by 1/2" plywood. If the layout runs along walls, I mount a ledger board against the wall to receive/support the edge-mounted 1x4 joists. I use deck screws for assembly--no nails. My layouts are typically 42" high measured at the plywood top. I use a "Stadium Chair" for comfortable work under my layout[I'm 6'-2"]. 

 

I use stock lumber that I select [2x4s and 1x4s] because it is difficult to find 2x2s or 1x3s that are straight or not twisted. However if you have a table saw you can rip straight 2x2s from selected 2x4s. Try to get 1/2" plywood that doesn't have mildew or mold and, if so, wash it off with a special cleanser before installing.

 

["L Girder Construction", which I used for my 1960s-70s HO layouts, is described in Linn Wescott's book. It requires more fabrication and use of the aforementioned 2x2s/1x3s but is lighter and strong enough for most druthers].

 

Over the years I used mostly Homasote topping but on the last two layouts went with extruded construction foam[blue or pink]glued over the plywood for easier scenery application[for me]. I install cork roadbed over the foam for mounting my track.

My current "Senior Citizen's" attic layout is small--9x16 round-the-wall with a piano-hinged drop section with spring-loaded catches for entry. 

 

I used 1X3 L-girder topped off with 3/4 plywood covered by 1 inch green foam.  The plywood I bought from Builders Surplus Store for $11 per sheet.  Half of what 1/2 inch cost at the big box stores.  The green foam comes from Lowes.  Home Depot has the pink stuff.  I supported one side on a box beam I built usinf metal studs attached around the room.  The freestanding side is supported with cross braced 1X3 legs.  The benchwork is about 41 inches from the floor.  I need to get on a stool to reach the back of the platform which is three feet wide.  

I have always used 2x4 outer frame screwed and glued, 2x4 legs with triangular support and 2 inner 2x4 stringers for a 4x8 platform.  I use 1/2" ply for the top.  but I always have done this.  I may add a layer of 1/2pink foam to my next platform for creating more gradual elevations into mountain ranges! 

Chris

"What about the height of the table top?"

 

As noted, layouts come in varying heights. Before you start cutting wood, make sure you have a good idea of what your structure will look like finished so you won't have to make extra trips to the saw. The object will be for you to decide what height will work best for you. From that point, you will need to figure in the height of the plywood, homasote and/or foam to get the correct height of the supporting base. For instance, if you used 2" foam over a 1/2" piece of plywood and you wanted a 42" height, your base would be 39 1/2" high. Whichever method you use to make your support base, take your time and do it right. A happy layout starts with the structure.

 

"I was planning either homasote or foam with either woodlands scene O guage roadbed or cork roadbed. I assume it is a good idea to place structures and landscaping on homasote or foam instead the plywood directly."

 

Homasote and foam are often used as a sound barriers. Foam has the added quality of being easily cut to create ditches, water features and so forth. For the purpose of attaching scenery, they don't offer an advantage. For all three mediums, you would want to add a coat of latex paint or use mesh tape and a product like Truscene modeling fibre.

 

Have you created a track plan yet?

I used 3/4" for the top of my benchwork. The more solid the structure is, the less the vibrations, hence....."Quieter". For what it cost's to go to 3/4" I would go that way.

 

I also used a gasket between wherever the table top and the substructure touched. I used the stuff you can buy in a roll at the lumber yards, I think it's called "sill gasket". Really don't know how much it helped, but seemed like a good idea at the time. I'm sure it helps a bit.

 

The other thing I did, was to cover the whole table top with hardwood floor underlay pad. The stuff is about 3/16" thick, sort of a harder compound than regular carpet underlay, and a little thinner. This has worked great. I use all fastrack, which is noted for being noisey, but with my set up, I'm very happy with the noise level. I don't notice it at all.

 

As far as height, I have a 2 level deal, where the 1st level is at 36", and the top is at 42". You will get all kinds of suggestions as to what folks prefer. Some prefer higher so it's easier to crawl around under it, and some like lower, for a sort of ariel type view. Just depends on your own preferences. I'm about 6' tall, and I wouldn't want my upper level to higher than 42", but that's just my preference.

 

Just a little food for thought, hope it helps. If you are looking to minimize the noise, the best place to start is right at the beginning. Every little bit helps, and a lot easier to do in the beginning.

 

REV

I like a higher layout if it is only a single level platform. Mine is 40" finished height. I use green drywall then glue 3/4"plywood then glue a homesite top. I figured I would spend a bit extra knowing I would be climbing on it. It is very solid so I have no problems with cracking scenery base or the like when I'm climbing on it. Pretty much anything you choose will work. I like the homesite top for screwing into and planting trees and such. Can't really remember why I did the drywall first layer...  Read it somewhere and I was a newbie when I made it. 

Regarding the height, it is really your preference after considering all the requirements.  These 2 stand out to me:  Will there be small children viewing your lauout?  It gets tiresome holding them up to see if you don't have the space for a stool or whatever.  And, do you have any problems bending and getting around?  A higher layout is much easier to work under, if so.

Although there are many ways to skin a cat, I'm always astounded by the over construction of layouts. Even if your 6'4 250 pounds where do you put your size 12 feet when you get up there without destroying scenery? If your building an around the room layout, 2' is reachable and a lot of area for track and scenery without having to get up on the layout. This was all constructed from 3/4" birch plywood except for the wall brackets were made from hard maple, but only because I had it readily available for free. You can build EVERYTHING from 3/4" plywood right down to the legs to support the L girders and there is literally no waste with plywood. Whatever you do, do not use 1/2" plywood for sub road bed, you will regret it. Don't take my advice on anything you've read in this post, take it from Lynn Wescott, he wrote the book on how to construct this and I simply followed it. Thanks Lynn!

 

 

I've heard many good things about Linn Westcott's book.  Should I avoid the 1979 copy and try to get the 1996 copy?  Is there much difference?  Thanks everyone.