http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-5M...;hash=item43a6922817
pictures of the reels look good. have solder spots. input 12v DC. what do you all think? Iwanted to order soon.
thanks
Chris
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-5M...;hash=item43a6922817
pictures of the reels look good. have solder spots. input 12v DC. what do you all think? Iwanted to order soon.
thanks
Chris
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Those will definitely work. Decent price too.
Go for it! Start saving "wall worts", great source for 12vdc.
Pete, that's an awesome price, and if you say they work fine (i rely on yours, GGG's, & GRJ's opinion for things electrical), i'm ordering a few reels just to have in stock.
jackson
I think they are all made in the same place. Coming from China delivery may be slower. I think ours took about a month to show up.
Pete
Pete,
For that price i can wait a month. I usually try to buy my supplies ahead of time anyway. I always have more Evergreen styrene in stock than the local hobby shop, keep at least two new tubes of Goo on the shelf - same with one extra roll of silver solder, etc. Don't like running out of something at 9 at night or 4 on a Sunday afternoon.
jackson
Does anyone happen to know what the "typical" light output is (in lumens) from the bulbs usually used by Lionel (or anyone else for that matter) in lighted cars (e.g., passenger cars, cabeese, etc.)? I know it depends on the voltage, but lets say at the track voltage used for TMCC (15 v AC?).
I want to replace the bulb-based lights in the cars with an LED strip and the question is whether having one of these strips the length of the car will be too bright (or dim, for the matter). I hadn't planned on incorporating a variable resistor in the circuit to power the lights (but could). the alternative would be to cut the strip into three SMD segments and spread them out along the length of the car - doable but seems like a real PITA.
Second related question, these particular LEDs are 3528 - I've seen others described as 3550 and 3570 (I think) - the latter two claiming to be 'very bright'. I gather they do that by actually assembling several SMD's into a cluster. In any event, does anyone have a handy-dandy 'guide' to these devices and how they 'scale' (light output, current draw, etc.) with 'part number'?? Or is it the usual problem of having each device manufacturer with their own sizing descriptor. I guess what I'm looking for is the equivalent to saying that I know when to use a 60 watt bulb vs a 100 watt bulb...
If you use a full length strip (I use 15" in an 18" car) the light will be much brighter but they are easy to dim with a resistor regardless if you go with a constant current or constant voltage circuit. Many threads here on how to do that.
Pete
banjoflyer. wow. im getting a bunch of reels! wow! thanks!
Chris
from that supplier I got 3 reels and saved even more! ill use them in my buildings or something.! cant beat that price!
You can beat any price when they are out of stock
John, I just bought some of them, maybe that's why. It's the cheapest I've ever seen them!
If you don't like those, how about $2.99 for a 5M strip?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5M-SMD...;hash=item1e97e9eae7
John, I always like your advice. I still have 2 reels from a while ago when you first put me on to them. I haven't got to the DC part yet. I'm still working on a few more AC feeders. I did salvage a PC power supply the other day at the town refuse station. This one even has a switch. I can power a ton with 300 watts from that.
boy you cant beat the price!!!!. I wondered on the supply end when they cost cut them like that cheap. all the sudden the supply is GONE! then it takes 2 months!
I got 3 reels, so I may never need them again! I think im lining my cabinets in the kitchen with them and my garage cabinets too. just LED everything!
Chris
I have a bunch in the closet, and more on the way. I'm sure at some point the supply will dry up.
GRJ, Which did you buy?
Thanks, GRJ. I just ordered from the $2.99 supplier. Delivery is a week or so less, and somehow I trust Hong Kong more than other areas in China.
I don't see how the Chinese stuff can be so cheap, like the 89-cent relays I just got from Jameco. Consider the postage from China, and you wonder how they can be produced so cheaply.
I wonder about the Chinese prices as well. I buy little circuits for less than I could have the PCB manufactured, never mind the parts, assembly, & shipping!
There was an interesting article in the WSJ the other day about contract manufacturers, who abound in China but are scarce in US. For a fee, they'll make most anything. I wonder (1) how the firm contracting with them can monitor quality and (2) do MTH, Lionel, Atlas, etc. just bid out production of various locos, or do they have a single source, as they did when they used Samhongsa in Korea.
Also, consider this in connection with medicines produced in Asia..................
Now that we all have the LEDs, I would like to see a picture of how you are powering them.
Thanks, GRJ. I just ordered from the $2.99 supplier. Delivery is a week or so less, and somehow I trust Hong Kong more than other areas in China.
Don't kid yourself. Unscrupulous businessmen exist all over the world. Ebay feedback is your best indicator.
Pete
moed. I built some myself, but for about $1 more each than the raw parts, and under $3 each in lots of 5, I use this AC-DC buck converter:
http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/6117757227.html
Since output is easily adjustable and input flexible, I have found other uses, like operating the DC motor that moves my 262 gantry crane back-and-forth on the rails, and supplying DC power for relay circuits..
Yes, Norton, I know it comes from China outside of HongKong. But, somehow I see more news stories about unscrupulous businessmen in China than elsewhere, like those to adulterate baby formula, medicine, ext. I will agree that Aliexpress probably makes an effort to control those dealing through it, but it has caught hades from the Chinese government for allowing sales of fraudulently labeled goods.
Now that we all have the LEDs, I would like to see a picture of how you are powering them.
I'm biased, but I power mine with this circuit that I build.
GRJ could I use 1 of your led lighting boards, run it to A junction box and light 5-6 houses / buildings or do I need 1 board per led / 3 led strip. Choo Choo Kenny
just bought 5 reels, thanks GRJ
GRJ, do you print the boards, or buy them ready for component installation?
One thought for LED usage, other than in trains, is to install a 25-amp rectifier and filter capacitor on a 10-12-volt transformer outlet (Z4000 has one fixed at 10VAC) and have a DC buss running around the layout to feed LEDs. If I were building from scratch, I would do that, but it's too late now.
GRJ could I use 1 of your led lighting boards, run it to A junction box and light 5-6 houses / buildings or do I need 1 board per led / 3 led strip. Choo Choo Kenny
For stationary objects like structures you could just get an HO power Pack or computer power supply. One computer supply could power all LED lights on the NJHirailers layout.
Pete
grj, bought two reels. Buying these two eases the "pain" of having bought the same item for $3.90 in December.
moed. I built some myself, but for about $1 more each than the raw parts, and under $3 each in lots of 5, I use this AC-DC buck converter:
http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/6117757227.html
RJR, do you need to add a choke to this board for DCS use?
GRJ - forgive me for being lazy and not digging this out of the older threads, but does your board take variable AC voltage (say 0 to 18 v) and produce a constant DC output for the lighting strips? Or did you design it to basically be used with command-control systems that have a constant AC track voltage? For those of us with mixed systems - meaning some track with variable voltage transformer control, would your board work to produce constant lighting?
The boards referenced elsewhere in this thread (e.g., the board at aliexpress) seem to be 'buck-boost' systems that handle variable input voltage. What I can't tell is whether they have a capacitor in the circuit to eliminate the light flicker as the car moves on the track. I think your board does (?).
GRJ, do you print the boards, or buy them ready for component installation?
I have the boards made and populated by an outside vendor. The last run was 500 boards, I really don't think I want to sit and solder all those surface mount components on that many boards!
RJR, do you need to add a choke to this board for DCS use?
You do need a choke for DCS applications, my board has the required choke as part of the design.
GRJ - forgive me for being lazy and not digging this out of the older threads, but does your board take variable AC voltage (say 0 to 18 v) and produce a constant DC output for the lighting strips? Or did you design it to basically be used with command-control systems that have a constant AC track voltage? For those of us with mixed systems - meaning some track with variable voltage transformer control, would your board work to produce constant lighting?
The boards referenced elsewhere in this thread (e.g., the board at aliexpress) seem to be 'buck-boost' systems that handle variable input voltage. What I can't tell is whether they have a capacitor in the circuit to eliminate the light flicker as the car moves on the track. I think your board does (?).
You can find voltage regulator boards that have input caps, and also models that accept AC track voltage. AFAIK, none of them have the 22uh choke for DCS compatibility. My board was purpose-build to light passenger cars utilizing the 12V LED strips. As such, it has just what it needs for that application.
Input: 12-18 VAC or DC.
Bulk capacitance for flicker resistance.
RF choke for DCS compatibility.
Output: Adjustable from 5ma to 45ma.
Note that my boards are constant current boards, and not constant voltage.
Thanks, John.
Pingman, I've been using the buck converters for accessories, and have not used chokes. I had made up a dozen or so voltage regulators with chokes for use in cars. Unlike GRJ, I set up mine for constant voltage, so I could use them anywhere. GRJ made his for constant current.
If using a buck converter in a car, I'd add a choke in the feed from the pickup roller.
GRJ: 500? I didn't know you were that heavily into production.
Well, I needed about 70 of them for my use, so I figured they would go. A bunch of them have gone, I'm getting ready for another order.
Good for you, John!
Bravo John Bravo!
I would love to see the face on the sales agent in China/HKG for the manufacture of these LED off of eBay. I wonder what he/she say to themselves as to why all these Americans and others are purchasing all these LED at once. LOL As soon as they post it at a low price they are gone (more or less). Please remember it is Chinese New Year and they are closed for a week or two so your shipment will be delayed until they open and process them.
I can wait, I have plenty right now. However, I have to do some more lighting kits, so I use up reels pretty fast packaging those. I like to keep a bunch in stock, especially at $3/roll!
I ordered today from HongKong, the $2.99 source, and just got an email that they've been shipped.
I wonder how these things are shipped? Air? If they are shipped by container, the wait could be longer, depending on whether they come through one of the west coast ports. As several have noted on other threads, there is a big slowdown in unloading/loading container ships all up and down the coast...
I have bought a few things from vendors like these and they have come relatively quick. Mine said shipped shortly after I bought them.
I rarely wait more than a day or two at the most before stuff from China is marked as shipped. I'm pretty sure most of it comes by air, a container ship would take 5-6 weeks by the time it was loaded, transit, and unloaded here in the US. That assumes there wasn't a port slowdown, obviously it would be worse now.
Mine have all been shipped by epacket. Joe
and mine was marked shipped yesterday. Said feb 25 to march 11. it all depends, but I get my stuff around a week or so. pretty fast
Now that we all have the LEDs, I would like to see a picture of how you are powering them.
An e-package is moved via China Post Office. Mail no longer moves via Sea Freight unless to specific request it (This option is NOT available with USPS). So this will move via air freight. The question was raised how they can move it so cheap from China to here. The cost are lower in China as we all know. The Universal Postal Union are agree rates that each postal service will charge a foreign postal service to move the package or letters. Example China Postal service will get the mail to LAX and the USPS will then move it to final destination USA. USPS will charge China Postal service for service moving the letter or package to final USA destination via the Universal Postal Union. And yes I have over 24 years of international transportation experience.
Thanks for the info, Kris. USPS must get a pittance compared to what we pay.
Kris, I still can't understand how they sell me a set of circuit boards (small I'll admit) for 80 cents and ship it to me for free!
I bought a reel of these lights, but it will be about 1 month before they are delivered. Free Shipping. This email is to inform you that your item has been shipped on 2015-02-12GMT via China Post International Air Mail. As it is international shipment,usually it will take 25-40 days for delivery.
It's not fast, but much of the time is in Customs from what I have seen. I've had a package sit in Customs for several weeks before it moves on, that's after it gets to the US.
Dear John
They are "dumping" the electronics parts at below cost to get a foot hold on sales in the USA. This is were Congress or US Customs gets involed and slap on a counter valing duty to bring it back to market prices. I have not heard anything lately that Congress or Customs is going after the Chinese exporters. But that is also subject to change.
In regards to the Universal Postal Union I do not what agreement is between the US and China. I do know that there complaints about how cheap the Chinese exports can send their goods to US and expensive it is to send goods to China.
Customs can hold anything until they are good and ready to release it. So do not be surprised that they hold these goods that long or longer.
I assumed they had to be below cost, because I couldn't even make the blank PCB for what I get these products for and shipped as well! I know Customs can sit on stuff for months at times, I don't order anything from the overseas sources that I need right away. My primary parts suppliers are Digikey and Mouser, great selection, reliable, good prices, and lightning quick shipping.
GRJ, if you have any hints for simplifying the Digikey search process, I'd appreciate hearing them.
Its funny too that they discount the price even more when you buy 3 reels. its cheap already and they make them even more. Now, I paid shipping on mine. but its like 2.50 for E-packet. I got lots of work to do anyway. I can wait! its so cheap not to wait. why pay 15-20 dollars a roll for same thing?
I ran across an LED strip light offer I had not seen before:
10pcs Prewired WARM White 3 Led Light Strip 9V-18V Model Train Lights (I hope the link works). Are you guys buying waterproof or non-waterproof strips?
I use non-waterproof strips, I can't imagine why they'd need to be waterproof, the rest of my trains aren't!
Personally, that deal for pre-wired ones is pretty steep. You're getting 10% of one roll of lights and some short chunks of wire.
For that price you can have three rolls of lights!
You'd need wp strips for outdoor layouts, or non-train uses in wet or damp areas.
Chris: don't forget that there is value in your credit card number with security code.
.
I received following email today from a Chinese vendor:
Dear friend:Hello,How are you?Sorry to write this message to disturb you.Feb.19th is our National String Festival.We will have a long holiday from Feb.14th to Feb.26th.Every delivery company are date off,so will will close the store during these days.If you have any questions,please leave a message to us or contact us after Feb.26th.We will reply you soon.Please wait patiently.Thank you for understanding.Best regards.(Please don't reply this message,thank you.)
John,
I just saw a 39" roll in Radio Shack for $29.99 if you don't have enough yet. Even 70% off won't help that one!
A 39" roll? Talk about a revealing peek as to why Radio Shack is going out of business!
I went up there just to see the price on caps and chokes once and was amazed! no wonder they are pretty much done! they need to compete! cant get away selling cell phones and radio controlled cars!
Now you know why it's been years since I was in a RS store looking for components. Last time was about a year ago that we needed an audio cable and it required instant gratification, no matter the cost!
So what do you do if you need 1 1/4 watt 330 ohm resistor and you need it right now?
I received following email today from a Chinese vendor:
Dear friend:Hello,How are you?Sorry to write this message to disturb you.Feb.19th is our National String Festival.We will have a long holiday from Feb.14th to Feb.26th.Every delivery company are date off,so will will close the store during these days.If you have any questions,please leave a message to us or contact us after Feb.26th.We will reply you soon.Please wait patiently.Thank you for understanding.Best regards.(Please don't reply this message,thank you.)
I got pretty much the same message from an Aliexpress vendor. the shipping company will be offline till about the same date, so the 'purchase protection' feature was extended into March so the item has a chance to reach me (under Aliexpress rules, the seller doesn't get paid--Aliexpress holds the payment in escrow--till the buyer signals they have received the goods in acceptable condition).
---PCJ
So what do you do if you need 1 1/4 watt 330 ohm resistor and you need it right now?
If you don't have an electronics store in town then get an assortment like this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/600pcs...;hash=item418cffc9ef
Pete
So what do you do if you need 1 1/4 watt 330 ohm resistor and you need it right now?
I open the drawers where I have resistors from 1 ohm to 10 megs in 5% steps and take one out.
Seriously, these things are not an emergency, and waiting a couple of days to get a component is not the end of the world. The kit posted by Pete is a good thing to have on hand if you're doing stuff with electronics.
I bought a bunch of different size components for what we typically use here. but I get things fast from digikey and mouser.
...
For those of us with mixed systems - meaning some track with variable voltage transformer control, would your board work to produce constant lighting?
The boards referenced elsewhere in this thread (e.g., the board at aliexpress) seem to be 'buck-boost' systems that handle variable input voltage. What I can't tell is whether they have a capacitor in the circuit to eliminate the light flicker as the car moves on the track.
...
Be mindful when ordering online DC-DC modules. Several are mis-identified as being "buck-boost" when they're really only "buck" modules. I've successfully gotten several eBay sellers to change their listings though I've now given up doing this with the language-barrier and lack of interest on their part - many are "just" distributors selling buck modules alongside ladies undergarments.
A buck module only lowers the voltage (aka stepdown) whereas a true buck-boost module can both lower or raise the voltage (aka stepdown-stepup). Since the voltage required by the LED strips is around 10-12V DC, you need a buck-boost type if you want to operate at lower conventional-control variable track voltages.
So here's a true DC-DC buck-boost module powering a 12V LED strip. I had to add the 22uH inductor, bridge rectifier, and capacitor. I am not aware of any AC-input buck-boost module (i.e., with bridge rectifier already on-board).
A detailed write-up on installing a buck-boost module for 12V LED strips is on the O gauge archives here:
Mine arrived today.
Mine arrived today.
Mine came today also?
We have a couple of 12-volt power supplies under the layout to drive these LEDs which we've placed in just about all of the buildings instead of the original light bulbs. They're great.
I ordered two reels on 2/10 and they arrived today (2/27) in upstate NY.
jackson
Here's a good deal on DC-DC Buck-Boost Converter, ideal for this application.
Well, almost ideal. On an O-gauge layout, I would rather get AC-DC for close to that price and save the price of a rectifier and capacitor.
If you could get an AC-DC one, that would be great. Since I've been unable to find a buck-boost one at all for anything like this price, this is as ideal as it gets.
For lighting passenger cars, is the DC-DC buck boost mentioned above better than this AC-DC unit. Or are they equivalent for operating on conventional track power?
Also, the $2.89 reels "special" you found earlier in this thread arrived today--I bought two. Not bad: ordered on 2/12 and arrival 2/27. Incidentally, the package left China on the 15th; arrived Chicago on the 22nd; and, delivered metro Atlanta 2/27.
Last purchase I made of AC to DC was for $14.35 for a lot of 5, via AliExpress, with free shipping. About 3 weeks ago.
Carl, the difference is that for conventional operators, the buck only power module doesn't get the lights on until track voltage is around 12 volts, the buck/boost will have them working for almost any reasonable track voltage. As mentioned previously, you have to add a 22uh choke (DCS compatibility), bridge rectifier, and perhaps even some bulk capacitance, though the extra capacitance isn't necessary for light loads.
Pretty good price on those reels, no?
Pingman, the AC-DC unit to which you linked is what I bought for 5/$14.35. The asking price on the link is outrageous. Google for it on AlExpress
Down below on the linked page 2/$5.89 is more realistic
Read my reply again, those are buck only modules, for conventional, you want a buck/boost power supply.
Pingman, the AC-DC unit to which you linked is what I bought for 5/$14.35. The asking price on the link is outrageous. Google for it on AlExpress
Down below on the linked page 2/$5.89 is more realistic
RJR, if you check the linked listing again, you'll see the $13.20 price is for 5 pieces/modules, not one.
Carl, the difference is that for conventional operators, the buck only power module doesn't get the lights on until track voltage is around 12 volts, the buck/boost will have them working for almost any reasonable track voltage. As mentioned previously, you have to add a 22uh choke (DCS compatibility), bridge rectifier, and perhaps even some bulk capacitance, though the extra capacitance isn't necessary for light loads.
Pretty good price on those reels, no?
I loved that $2.89 price. When I went to the Ebay link you suppled, they had only two left so I bought them.
As for using the DC-DC buck booster module, if I add the rectifier, 22uh choke, and capacitor from your "roll your own" parts where each component is basically daisy chained (i.e. not on a board) would that work?
Pingman, you're right. I missed the " 5 pcs" in the title of the listing.
Carl, the difference is that for conventional operators, the buck only power module doesn't get the lights on until track voltage is around 12 volts, the buck/boost will have them working for almost any reasonable track voltage. As mentioned previously, you have to add a 22uh choke (DCS compatibility), bridge rectifier, and perhaps even some bulk capacitance, though the extra capacitance isn't necessary for light loads.
Pretty good price on those reels, no?
I loved that $2.89 price. When I went to the Ebay link you suppled, they had only two left so I bought them.
As for using the DC-DC buck booster module, if I add the rectifier, 22uh choke, and capacitor from your "roll your own" parts where each component is basically daisy chained (i.e. not on a board) would that work?
Hmm... This says more than 10 available: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-...;hash=item43d66c5da5
The the choke is first, then the bridge rectifier (don't use a plain diode), and the capacitor is across the output of the bridge if you add one.
Pretty good price on those reels, no?
I loved that $2.89 price. When I went to the Ebay link you supplied, they had only two left so I bought them.
As for using the DC-DC buck booster module, if I add the rectifier, 22uh choke, and capacitor from your "roll your own" parts where each component is basically daisy chained (i.e. not on a board) would that work?
Hmm... This says more than 10 available: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-...;hash=item43d66c5da5
The the choke is first, then the bridge rectifier (don't use a plain diode), and the capacitor is across the output of the bridge if you add one.
gunrunnerjohn, when I went to the link on p.1 of this thread on 2/12 where your $2.89 per LED reel "special" is shown, they only had two reels left on that Ebay listing. That's what I bought and was referring to in my post above.
I'll give DigiKey an order for the choke, rectifier, and capacitor; and, buy the DC-DC buck booster on Ebay--have to get moving, I've got 900 LED's to install.
Carl, I have around 15 reels of those in the closet, of course I'm not installing all of them, I'm making a bunch of lighting kits soon, we're running low.
Well, almost ideal. On an O-gauge layout, I would rather get AC-DC for close to that price and save the price of a rectifier and capacitor.
RJR, if you are operating in TMCC/Legacy or DCS w/ 18 VAC, those AC-DC modules are great. But as gunrunnerjohn explained above, for conventional operation with variable track voltage, those modules may be problematic when track voltage is below 12 VAC.
True. I've been running DCS for so long I forget the problems of varying voltage. No AC-DC boost buck converters???
GRJ, is your closet the equivalent of Fibber McGee's when you open the door?
I think mine are multicolored! Today I looked at the reels I received and they are different than the one shown on the auction. Mine has a fancy plug with RWGB color wires and a male and female end to connect multisets. Whereas the picture has just a R&B wire. I wonder what these were originally made for?
Here is a AC-to-DC buck ....
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C3..._30332190_TE_3p_dp_1
that I have bought, played with, but have yet to install. I was going to make the guinea pig a K-Line caboose, but after I took it apart, I decided against.
GRJ, is your closet the equivalent of Fibber McGee's when you open the door?
I have it better organized.
Here is a AC-to-DC buck ....
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C3..._30332190_TE_3p_dp_1
that I have bought, played with, but have yet to install. I was going to make the guinea pig a K-Line caboose, but after I took it apart, I decided against.
That's a step-down only, and it's the same module listed above for about $3.
I think mine are multicolored! Today I looked at the reels I received and they are different than the one shown on the auction. Mine has a fancy plug with RWGB color wires and a male and female end to connect multisets. Whereas the picture has just a R&B wire. I wonder what these were originally made for?
Sounds like they sent a RGB LED strip. Each LED on your strip has a Red, Blue, and Green LED within it. So you need 4 wires to control the strip...a common, and one wire for each color. In round numbers the RGB LED strips run, say, 5 times the price of single color strips. Of course that's still only about $1 in LEDs to populate a typical passenger car.
The electronics are obviously more complicated since you are drive 3 circuits rather than one. But simple controllers are $1 or so on eBay. You feed 12V DC to the controller and it generates the 3 control signals allowing you to generate any color of the rainbow including warm white, cool white, etc. For a few dollars you can even get a remote control fob to adjust color, adjust brightness, turn on/off, sequence a pattern (used for commercial displays).
It kind of opens a can of worms though. Whereas before the issue was simply how bright to set the LED strips, now you can also adjust the color of your passenger car lighting to get just the right "shade" of warm-white!
I went to look at the auction to see if it stated multicolored and noticed they are now charging $1.99 shipping for the first reel and $1 per additional reel.
I think mine are multicolored! Today I looked at the reels I received and they are different than the one shown on the auction. Mine has a fancy plug with RWGB color wires and a male and female end to connect multisets. Whereas the picture has just a R&B wire. I wonder what these were originally made for?
Sounds like they sent a RGB LED strip. Each LED on your strip has a Red, Blue, and Green LED within it. So you need 4 wires to control the strip...a common, and one wire for each color. In round numbers the RGB LED strips run, say, 5 times the price of single color strips. Of course that's still only about $1 in LEDs to populate a typical passenger car.
The electronics are obviously more complicated since you are drive 3 circuits rather than one. But simple controllers are $1 or so on eBay. You feed 12V DC to the controller and it generates the 3 control signals allowing you to generate any color of the rainbow including warm white, cool white, etc. For a few dollars you can even get a remote control fob to adjust color, adjust brightness, turn on/off, sequence a pattern (used for commercial displays).
It kind of opens a can of worms though. Whereas before the issue was simply how bright to set the LED strips, now you can also adjust the color of your passenger car lighting to get just the right "shade" of warm-white!
Stan, I checked the two reels I bought, and they are the multi-color variety with a four pin connector which is not what I ordered.
I've gone through Ebay today to secure the simple, warm-white they listed for sale and which I ordered.
In the meantime, can you provide some more information (and Ebay links) for what would be needed to make what I have work for the passenger car lighting application?
I don't know exactly which RGB LED strip you have but the two commonly available controller types are as follows. Search eBay for "RGB LED strip controller" and you'll get thousands of listings.
Here's a basic controller that's about $1 free shipping. You apply 12V DC on the red/black wire on the lower-left and attach the 4-wires of your RGB LED strip to the connector on the upper-right. There are tiny button under the markings as shown that allow you to adjust color, brightness and so on. The controller is supposed to remember the setting so the next time you apply 12V DC it should remember your last setting. Obviously for a passenger car application, you need to generate 12V DC from AC track voltage but this chore has been discussed to death on this forum.
A more "sophisticated" controller runs a bit more but should be less than $5 or so. Here you have a remote fob controller with a bunch of buttons to directly set the color rather than (presumably) stepping thru color options in the simple controller above. So the tiny box on the left would go in the passenger car. You feed the box 12V DC and it drives the 4-pin connector on your RGB strip. I don't have one in front of me to confirm, but in theory if you put a white-box receiver in each passenger car you should be able to have one remote fob simultaneously adjust the color/brightness of each passenger car in a consist. And as with the simple controller, the receivers in the passenger car should remember the setting on the next power cycle.
I do not want to recommend a specific listing or product since there are variants of the RGB LED strips and if your seller can't even send you what you ordered it does make one wonder what you actually have!
Stan, thanks for the fast and comprehensive reply.
Multi-colored LED's might be a neat effect.
Are the four-pin male/female connectors readily available; are there specific types? I'm certain I will not use a 300 LED string in one application so adding connectors to LED segments is necessary.
Absolutely! Just search eBay for "RGB LED strip connector" and you should get thousands of choices. There are 4-pin extension cables, 4-pin male, 4-pin female, with wires, without wires, etc. etc.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3528-5...;hash=item27f825802d
I bought this from the same seller. Not 100% sure what I bought but for $2.88 it has the adapter, remote and wallwart. I will report back in a few weeks as to what actually arrives. Looks like the set is cheaper than the parts. Am I reading this right?
Stan2004, thanks for the product description. Checked Ebay and found plenty of choices. I'm working my way through my first LED reel, so I'm not in a rush.
moed321, yes, you're reading it right. For $2.88 could be some fun lighting effects to try out.
I just picked up a couple of these. If all else fails, they'll be great next Christmas.
Carl, the difference is that for conventional operators, the buck only power module doesn't get the lights on until track voltage is around 12 volts, the buck/boost will have them working for almost any reasonable track voltage. As mentioned previously, you have to add a 22uh choke (DCS compatibility), bridge rectifier, and perhaps even some bulk capacitance, though the extra capacitance isn't necessary for light loads.
Pretty good price on those reels, no?
John, I ordered some of the DC-DC buck boost modules you referenced earlier, and already have the 22uh chokes from DigiKey. The price for 5 modules, including shipping, was $11.53. I mention the price because the Ebay seller lists the price per unit in Canadian dollars.
Could you supply the pn's for the rectifier and capacitors (if necessary) you'd recommend for passenger car lighting?
Carl, I recommend my lighting modules, I thought you knew that!
Oh, OK...
Any generic 1A bridge 50V or greater will work, here's the DF-10G. For capacitors, I use something like this 330uf 50V.
If you shop around, cheaper deals can be had on quantities, sometimes on eBay you can get these for peanuts.
I didn't notice they were low, I'll have to get "on the stick".
Hi Gunner
I ordered 5 of your kits and have installed 3.5 of them. They work fine on DCS track voltage. Saw on the forum that Henning is low. Tried to order 5 more but they are out of stock. You're a good salesman!!!
Tommy
I have all the raw materials, I just have to package more up. I'm getting ready to place another production order, they're starting to move a bit faster.
John, I shot and posted a quick and dirty video showing LED lighting in conventional, variable voltage mode.
Where?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3528-5...;hash=item27f825802d
I bought this from the same seller. Not 100% sure what I bought but for $2.88 it has the adapter, remote and wallwart. I will report back in a few weeks as to what actually arrives. Looks like the set is cheaper than the parts. Am I reading this right?
moed321, yes, you're reading it right. For $2.88 could be some fun lighting effects to try out.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3528-5...;hash=item27f825802d
I bought this from the same seller. Not 100% sure what I bought but for $2.88 it has the adapter, remote and wallwart. I will report back in a few weeks as to what actually arrives. Looks like the set is cheaper than the parts. Am I reading this right?
For $2.88 (300 mult-color LED's, remote module and controller, and wallwort) it will be cheap entertainment if nothing else; hopefully, there is a useful hobby application.
I wonder if they'll send a suitable power adapter...
I wonder if they'll send a suitable power adapter...
Stan, the photo you posted looks the same to my untrained eye as the photo in the Ebay listing above.
This would work European to USA adapter.
http://allelcdn.upshotcommerce.../image/2/2/0/544.Jpg
http://www.allelectronics.com/...-adapter-plug/1.html
Problem fixed. Next problem.
Kris, I missed the point of Stan's post (obviously), but I'm good to go for adapters.
I wonder if this guy is a buddy of the first guy selling 3 of these for 81 cents, Including shipping.
for $2.88, the LED's are worth the price. You can get a new power supply cheap enough. Glad I ordered 5 before the price increase.
Doubtless they noticed they forgot the "1" in the price. I have a couple of them coming at $2.88, I wonder if they'll actually send them?
Edit:
Looks like they might, here's what I see in my account...
Did anyone get all white lights or did we all get multicolored?
I emailed them about my multicolored verse warm white and below is the responses. For the few bucks involved I gave up.
Dear Customer,
Thanks for contacting with us.
Sorry for the inconvenience.
But the supplier told us that the item is correct.
Please do not hesitate to contact again if need any help.
Best Regards,
I responded with:
How can the supplier tell you it is correct when I have multicolored lights and your eBay auction states warm white?
They responded with:
We are sorry to hear that.
We also think that it is wrong.
For your case, we could issue you $4 refund for compensation.
Would you please kindly leave us positive feedback with 5 scores of detailed seller ratings after refund?
We are looking forward to your reply.
I said:
Refund not necessary. I ordered more. I want white with two leads. Please be sure I get white. I ordered from you other stuff to make the rgb work. I can use these but I need white.
they said, Dear Customer,
Thanks for contacting with us.
Sorry for the inconvenience.
You couldn't get that.
We had checked the item from the supplier.
Sorry again.
I'd have taken the refund and ordered from another supplier.
moed321, I went through ebay. The seller offered a $3 refund which I accepted, and retain the two reels they'd sent. The multi-color will probably see duty at Christmas.
The beauty of the Multi-colors is that you can get white from them. There is a white button on the controller.
They are interesting to use as layout lighting because you can change to evening colors before going to night. There is also a fade button on the controller.
As this is a discussion forum, please note that there are (at least) 3 different types of RGB "multi-color" LED strips. The eBay listings can be confusing since from what I can tell the sellers themselves don't know what they are selling!
Type 1. Individual Red, Green, Blue LEDs. There is a Red (only) LED, next to it a Green (only) LED, next to it a Blue (only) LED, and the pattern repeats. So if generating Red light, only the Red LEDs are turned on and Green and Blue LEDs are off. Look carefully at the following listing photo. You CAN'T generate white or warm white from these multi-color strips. Well, I suppose, from a far enough distance the color might appear white if you turn on the right blend of Red, Green, and Blue but the distance wouldn't be practical for passenger cars. Note that you need a 4-wire controller to supply a common, plus individual power for Red, Green, and Blue.
Type 2. True RGB LEDs. In other words, each individual LED has the ability to generate Red, Green, and Blue. This means you can generate white or warm white. And if you were to generate Red only, all the LEDs would turn on rather than every third LED in the Type 1 multi-color strips above. Look closely at the following listing photo to see this. Note that again need a 4-wire controller to supply a common, plus individual power for Red, Green, and Blue.
Type 3. True RGB LEDs with individual addressability. These are like the Type 2 strips but have the somewhat remarkable ability to individually set the color on each LED on the strip. Each LED has a built-in digital chip which decodes a command signal that runs down the strip. So you can make one LED warm-white, the one next to it cool-white, the one next to that turned off, the one next to that purple, etc. If you look carefully at the listing photo below you'll see there are only 3-wires running down the strip! 2 wires are power + and -. The 3rd wire carries the complex digital command signal. If you've made it to this point, Type 2 vs. Type 3 is sort of like conventional vs. command control in our trains. In conventional, all engines on the track respond together. In command, you can individually address each engine on the track.
So hopefully you get the "multi-color" LED strips that do what you expect...and a suitable controller that generates the correct signals to drive them. Life was easier when you only had to choose warm-white or cool-white
THANK YOU, Stan2004!!!
As I earlier posted, I received the RGB instead of the warm-white ordered. And have since ordered the RGB with the remote, etc. I'll report back on whatever version I have--it'll be a surprise to see which version I have since the sellers may not know what they're selling.
Excellent points Stan, thanks for showing the differences. I didn't know about the fancy ones with individual addressability, those are pretty cool!
The beauty of the Multi-colors is that you can get white from them. There is a white button on the controller.
They are interesting to use as layout lighting because you can change to evening colors before going to night. There is also a fade button on the controller.
The beauty of the Multi-colors is that you can get white from them. There is a white button on the controller.
They are interesting to use as layout lighting because you can change to evening colors before going to night. There is also a fade button on the controller.
True, but the project in question is lights passenger cars and items that only require white.
The beauty of the Multi-colors is that you can get white from them. There is a white button on the controller.
They are interesting to use as layout lighting because you can change to evening colors before going to night. There is also a fade button on the controller.
True, but the project in question is lights passenger cars and items that only require white.
Excellent points Stan, thanks for showing the differences. I didn't know about the fancy ones with individual addressability, those are pretty cool!
Are there some key words or notations that can be used to know the difference? I used RGB just because I saw a R G and B letter code on the light strip. I saw different ones form this seller and I bought 2 more, both different, I wanted to see if I could tell the difference.
Individually addressable seems to be the phrase they use for those.
I
got mine in today's mail. Now just have to get started installing them in my Lionel Pullman cars.
Nice catch on the price increase!
China Post has my order for the RGB package deal (reel, remote, controller) @$2.88.
Don't know what type of RGB reels I already have which were shipped instead of the two warm white 3528 reels I ordered.
Carl, FWIW, I got the same RGB reels for my last order, apparently those idiots didn't know what they were selling and that ad shipped everyone the same incorrect reels.
I complained, I'll see what response I get. Sending them back is really a non-starter, sending 9 reels back to China would cost me more than I'd get back!
John, as I posted earlier I went through Ebay about the wrong items being shipped. The seller replied he would refund $3 would if I leave + feedback. I replied I would provided I'd keep the 2 RGB reels he sent me. Haven't heard back--it's been a couple of days.
Can you use 9 RGB reels?
Don't know what type of RGB reels I already have which were shipped instead of the two warm white 3528 reels I ordered.
I'll bet you got the same thing I got. These are the "cheap" ones that have three colors of LED's in sequence, each group is 9 LED's and three resistors. No intelligence, and they can't produce white.
Think how pretty they'll look come Christmas.
Milwrd
Think how bad a review I'm going to give that company.
John, as I posted earlier I went through Ebay about the wrong items being shipped. The seller replied he would refund $3 would if I leave + feedback. I replied I would provided I'd keep the 2 RGB reels he sent me. Haven't heard back--it's been a couple of days.
Can you use 9 RGB reels?
How many reels did you buy for that $3 refund? That won't do it for me! If I get more than $15 back, I'll keep them and see if I find a use for them. I suspect someone will like them, perhaps to set the mood for a nighttime scene on a layout.
John, as I posted earlier I went through Ebay about the wrong items being shipped. The seller replied he would refund $3 would if I leave + feedback. I replied I would provided I'd keep the 2 RGB reels he sent me. Haven't heard back--it's been a couple of days.
Can you use 9 RGB reels?
How many reels did you buy for that $3 refund? That won't do it for me! If I get more than $15 back, I'll keep them and see if I find a use for them. I suspect someone will like them, perhaps to set the mood for a nighttime scene on a layout.
I bought 2 reels; then, I bought the package that included the RGB reel, controller, and module. Probably can find a use for them at Christmas. Haven't seen the $3.00 refund, yet.
I'll see what they say, I was just trying to buy plain warm white LED strips, now I'm hustling to buy some from other sources!
Same here I got the two reels of RGB reels instead of warm white. This was the back plan for less than $3.00 each what could possibly go wrong? Whoops! Look honey our new Christmas lights have arrived. Now can someone direct me to the powers source and control for these things. I will just use them for Christmas lights around the bay window.
They just take 12V positive on the white lead, then you connect the negative side to one or all of the three colored leads to energize that color. If you turn them all on, it requires 2 amps, same as a 300 LED white strip. There's 100 of each color LED on the strip.
You could be the first with a Disco Train.
Dear Milwrd
Now that a phrase I have not heard in a long time. I might be a little off center and a New Yorker (Brooklyn actually) but I still am a traditionalist when it comes to lighting my passenger cars. Warm White Led for the older passenger cars and for the modern subway and passenger cars Cool White Led.
Just got a reply from the vendor, they offered $4 refund. I turned them down, what a joke!
Just got a reply from the vendor, they offered $4 refund. I turned them down, what a joke!
Ridiculous offer, John. Hope you can get some help from Ebay.
If you need the 3528 warm white strips, maybe these will work for you.
That's an auction, so the end price is unknown. Besides, I need more. I just bought 10 rolls for $4.19, not as good as other prices, but not too bad.
That's a different vender, so you are probably OK.
The story is completed. I don't know what I'm doing with the nine reels of RGB LED's, but I submitted a complaint to eBay and explained that the $4 rebate on a $29 incorrect order was an insult. I also mentioned that I'd be glad to return them if I could ship them for less than the entire order cost! China gets a great deal on shipping, however price sending something that weighs over a pound to China and you'll swallow your back teeth!
I got a reply within a few hours, I got a rebate of the entire purchase price.
Great news, John.
Edit: Since I hadn't heard from the seller since accepting his proposed resolution on 3/4/15, I opened a case with Ebay.
I was a bit surprised, I figured I'd be happy getting around $15 back.
eBay is very buyer-centric, so anytime I feel the seller is giving me the shaft, I refer it to them. It actually doesn't happen very often, I have pretty good luck with 98-99% of purchases. Usually, if there's a problem, the seller is eager to solve it, don't know what this guy's problem is. I can only guess that they had a lot of orders for those and we looking at significant losses if they did a 100% refund for all of them.
He's the same guy that I ordered the $2.88 strips with the full controller from, can't wait to see what I get in that package.
John, I thought I had resolved the problem on March 4th, but then I didn't hear from him and took it up with Ebay. Like you, I received a full refund on the two reels I had ordered.
As for ordering the RGB's with the controller, etc. for $2.88 which later changed to $12.88, post-order, time will tell. The items are in the hands of China Post so we'll know in 7-10 days.
Yep, I have a lot more reels if it'll handle daisy-chained strips!
Looked up the specs, looks like it'll handle a bunch of strips, each strip uses about .66 amps max for each color. I'll figure something to do with all these colored strips!
Working Voltage: DC 5V-24VOutput current: 3 way, <4A (each channel)Remote frequency: 433.92MHzRemote distance: >15mMax current : 12AMax output power :144WWorking temperature:-30~+75 centigradeAuto memorizefunctionControl Function: Speed; Brightness; Color; Mode. 19 Dynamic Modes; 20 Static Colors
I'm working with "only" 900 RGB LED's w/ the controller; you, on the other hand, have the 2700 they shipped sending you the wrong reels plus the additional 300 with the $2.88 controller deal. IIRC, the reels are 5 meters in length; so, you have 150+ linear feet of RGB LEDs to utilize. It will be interesting to see how you use them--I'm sure you'll keep us posted.
I haven't really figured what I'm going to do, but I did order two of the controllers, so I should be able to power all my strips.
The interesting thing is, the supply that comes with them is just a 2A (24W) supply, but the controller handles 144 watts, so that sounds like six strips at full brightness.
Christmas this year will have a new color!
Oh, I have 3300 LED's with the two extra reels...
Oh, I have 3300 LED's with the two extra reels...
John, when you go big; you really go BIG!!!
GO big or go home!
If only Clark Griswold knew about LEDs from China, they could see his house in China!
The other shoe dropped, imagine how surprised these guys are going to be when they find out eBay refunded the whole price. I just got this message this morning...
You could return the item, but the shipment cost is expensive and takes a very long time. Could you pls consider keeping the item and taking a partial refund?Anyway, there are two solutions for your case:
1) Return it yourself for 100% refund. We will refund you after we receive your return package.
2) $4 as compensation and you keep the item.
Please kindly let us know your option. If you choose to return it, we will email you return name &amp; address.
We are looking forward to your reply.
I bought a couple of the strips with controllers when they were listed at $2.88, couldn't resist. Now that I have nine extra rolls, I'm in tri-color heaven. You can see the specifications of the two I'm getting a few messages above, should be interesting...
Crazy behavior by the seller, for sure. Full refund received one day; partial refund offered the next day.
I think the communication is slow to China, they haven't gotten the word.
I do notice that eBay said they were giving a courtesy refund, whatever that is. Perhaps they decided that I was really right.
this thread is very long! my question about these lights is if i use the whole strip as is , under a covered yard, will it be bright as the sun? or will the 3.5 lumens will be somewhat toned down? i dont want it to be unrealistically bright.
my appologies if this has already been addressed , i havent read every single post
You can vary the voltage between about 9-12 volts and get a wide variety of intensity values, just set it to what you'd like to see.
John - I bought a few reals of the 3528's (waterproof) for some outdoor projects. I've searched threads and can't find an answer to:
Is there a "bridge rectifier circuit" that will accept either 12vac or 12vdc (polarity observed)? In some cases, I can tap my regular landscape lights. In others, a 12v battery will have to suffice. I'm hoping one circuit could handle either...??
John - I bought a few reals of the 3528's (waterproof) for some outdoor projects. I've searched threads and can't find an answer to:
Is there a "bridge rectifier circuit" that will accept either 12vac or 12vdc (polarity observed)? In some cases, I can tap my regular landscape lights. In others, a 12v battery will have to suffice. I'm hoping one circuit could handle either...??
You can do that with a single diode pointing in the direction of the LED.
What he said.
John - I bought a few reals of the 3528's (waterproof) for some outdoor projects. I've searched threads and can't find an answer to:
Is there a "bridge rectifier circuit" that will accept either 12vac or 12vdc (polarity observed)? In some cases, I can tap my regular landscape lights. In others, a 12v battery will have to suffice. I'm hoping one circuit could handle either...??
You can do that with a single diode pointing in the direction of the LED.
If you use a single diode (rather than a bridge) don't you'll only get half of the voltage when hooked to 12VAC?
You only get half the RMS "heating" voltage, but since the peaks are over 12V, you will get lighting. You may not get quite the brightness of full-wave rectification, but IMO it will be hard to tell the difference.
John - I bought a few reals of the 3528's (waterproof) for some outdoor projects. I've searched threads and can't find an answer to:
Is there a "bridge rectifier circuit" that will accept either 12vac or 12vdc (polarity observed)? In some cases, I can tap my regular landscape lights. In others, a 12v battery will have to suffice. I'm hoping one circuit could handle either...??
You can do that with a single diode pointing in the direction of the LED.
If you use a single diode (rather than a bridge) don't you'll only get half of the voltage when hooked to 12VAC?
With 18 Vac and a single diode you get the RMS voltage (RMS voltage is the effective voltage for power in a load) Vpeak/2. So for 18vac, Vpeak is 25.45 so the RMS voltage is 12.72 Vrms.
If you use a full wave bridge and 18 Vrms, the RMS voltage is Vpeak/sq root of 2. So Vrms in this case is 18 Vrms. If it's a 12 Vdc LED, better to use a single diode.
I do this with LED lighted automotive switches using track voltage (18 Vac) and one diode which works very well.
If you use a full wave bridge and 18 Vrms, the RMS voltage is Vpeak/sq root of 2. So Vrms in this case is 18 Vrms. If it's a 12 Vdc LED, better to use a single diode.
I agree with everything you say, but Mark440 specifically asks about 12V AC driving the 12V LED strip.
You only get half the RMS "heating" voltage, but since the peaks are over 12V, you will get lighting. You may not get quite the brightness of full-wave rectification, but IMO it will be hard to tell the difference.
I agree you will get lighting because the peaks of a 12V AC waveform exceed 12V. But by ignoring (not using) the negative half of the AC waveform you only turn on the LED strip on the positive half of the AC waveform. Since the positive and negative halves of the AC voltage contribute equally in using a bridge rectifier*, whatever brightness you get is cut in half using the single-diode method. IMO you will be able to tell the difference in something half as bright...sort of like the difference in brightness between 30 Watt and 60 Watt light bulbs.
Separately, a your-mileage-may-vary issue with the single-diode approach is the LED strips will be pulsing 60 times per second. And since LEDs are solid-state they will be completely off half the time (during the ignored negative half of the AC). I think it's an age thing but this flicker bothers some people. As you're doing this on a large scale (outdoor) rather than in a passenger car or whatever, I'd "look" into this before committing to the single-diode method. OTOH you could install a switch that goes between full-wave and half-wave and when you want your guests to leave, you flip the switch to half-wave and they won't know why but they will want to leave
*Note: with a bridge rectifier (full-wave rectification) there is a 2nd diode in play contributing additional voltage drop over a single diode (half-wave rectification). This complicates the math a bit so ignore the man behind the curtain...
very good!
I missed the 12 Vac so then it's clear that the full wave bridge utilizing both halves of the AC waveform is needed. And except for the diode drops, feeding the bridge with either polarity of 12 Vdc will work too since the diode bridge commutes the DC to the proper polarity.
I finally got my LED strip reels. and they appear to be the correct ones! warm white. got 3 reels. so if you need them. the ebay vendor I originally posted, seems to be a good one. ill be starting my project soon and start a new thread of the construction
Price went way up on the ones you ordered, they're $10.50 now!
I received my 5 RGB reels today and the IR controllers for $2.88 each.
Don't have to worry about the European power supplies because they didn't send them!
My package was in Chicago on the 16th, so maybe I'll get it sometime soon.
My one reel order is "out for delivery."
RichO's post has me wondering what will be inside the package?
My one reel order is "out for delivery."
RichO's post has me wondering what will be inside the package?
You'll know in a flash.
No power supply included in mine. So now I need to find power supplies. I emailed them so let's see what they say this time about no power supply, it stated it was included.
My experience was the same as RichO's only I ordered 1 reel, he ordered 5--no converter.
Went through PayPal and was offered full ($2.88) refund which I accepted earlier this a.m. Haven't seen the refund, yet.
So, I now have 3 reels (900) RGB LED's, controller, and remote for $0 net.
$4 refund offered on mine. Have other stuff coming so lets see what arrives.
That's the same vendor that shipped me the nine rolls of RGB LEDs when I ordered warm-white. While he offered a $4 rebate, for a $29 purchase I declined and eBay gave me all my money back.
It'll be interesting to see if I get these two with no power supply as well. I'm actually hoping that's the case, I have plenty of power, and I can use the rebate.
Just got mine yesterday, no power supplies. I sent them a query.
Same deal as RichO; refund received ($2.88) for the one reel I had purchased.
I got two reels, my grandson promptly commandeered one for his room. He was up pretty late fooling around with the controller and lighting effects.
OK, finally have white. Took a while, but I was happy to see 2 wires on the reel rather the 4. But a funny story. I bought one of the expensive kits from the same seller, $14 with the big remote and 2 reels. But again, no power supply.
They want to give me $2 for the two missing power supplies, I think I'll hold their feet to the fire.
Well, a major disappointment with eBay cheap Chinese LED rolls. I was able to sort out the previous totally wrong rolls with a full refund. Then came the missing power supplies, and I finally got $4. Since I only paid around $6 total, I figured that was fine.
Fast forward to my next buy of warm white rolls. I bought ten rolls of these 5M SMD 300 LED warm white strips. The quality is, to be kind. abysmal! They have multiple issues, so I have complained to the vendor. They appear to have been sweeping the floor at the factory for this shipment! They asked for pictures, so I sent them this.
Dear top201088,
Here is a composite photo where I illustrated all of the issues.
#1 & #2, the voltage and current drawn by the reels. At 12V, the current draw should be close to 2 amps for 300 LED's, however due to the 330 ohm resistors illustrated in #4, in order to get full intensity from these strips, you have to run them at around 16 volts.
#3 is an illustration of dead spots in the reels, there are three of these in three different reels. It appears to be a bad LED as the solder joints look fine for all the LEDs in the three-LED group as well as the resistor..
#4 shows the 330 ohm resistor that should be a 150 ohm resistor. This is common to all ten reels.
#5 illustrates the remaining issue. As you can see the color temperature of the strips suddenly changes from bright white on the right to warm white on the left. This always happens at a soldered joint, so it seems that scraps of the wrong color temperature were used to create a while reel. This also happens on several other rolls, sometimes at the end, and sometimes in the middle.
I don't expect absolute perfection for a product like this, but this level of defects is not acceptable.
I included a composite picture illustrating all of the issues.
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