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For lighting passenger cars, is the DC-DC buck boost mentioned above better than this AC-DC unit.  Or are they equivalent for operating on conventional track power?

 

Also, the $2.89 reels "special" you found earlier in this thread arrived today--I bought two.  Not bad:  ordered on 2/12 and arrival 2/27.  Incidentally, the package left China on the 15th; arrived Chicago on the 22nd; and, delivered metro Atlanta 2/27.

Last edited by Pingman

Carl, the difference is that for conventional operators, the buck only power module doesn't get the lights on until track voltage is around 12 volts, the buck/boost will have them working for almost any reasonable track voltage.  As mentioned previously, you have to add a 22uh choke (DCS compatibility), bridge rectifier, and perhaps even some bulk capacitance, though the extra capacitance isn't necessary for light loads.

 

Pretty good price on those reels, no?

 

Originally Posted by RJR:

Pingman, the AC-DC unit to which you linked is what I bought for 5/$14.35.  The asking price on the link is outrageous.  Google for it on AlExpress

 

Down below on the linked page 2/$5.89 is more realistic

RJR, if you check the linked listing again, you'll see the $13.20 price is for 5 pieces/modules, not one. 

Last edited by Pingman
Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

Carl, the difference is that for conventional operators, the buck only power module doesn't get the lights on until track voltage is around 12 volts, the buck/boost will have them working for almost any reasonable track voltage.  As mentioned previously, you have to add a 22uh choke (DCS compatibility), bridge rectifier, and perhaps even some bulk capacitance, though the extra capacitance isn't necessary for light loads.

 

Pretty good price on those reels, no?

 

I loved that $2.89 price.  When I went to the Ebay link you suppled, they had only two left so I bought them. 

 

As for using the DC-DC buck booster module, if I add the rectifier, 22uh choke, and capacitor from your "roll your own" parts where each component is basically daisy chained (i.e. not on a board) would that work?

Originally Posted by Pingman:
Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

Carl, the difference is that for conventional operators, the buck only power module doesn't get the lights on until track voltage is around 12 volts, the buck/boost will have them working for almost any reasonable track voltage.  As mentioned previously, you have to add a 22uh choke (DCS compatibility), bridge rectifier, and perhaps even some bulk capacitance, though the extra capacitance isn't necessary for light loads.

 

Pretty good price on those reels, no?

 

I loved that $2.89 price.  When I went to the Ebay link you suppled, they had only two left so I bought them. 

 

As for using the DC-DC buck booster module, if I add the rectifier, 22uh choke, and capacitor from your "roll your own" parts where each component is basically daisy chained (i.e. not on a board) would that work?

Hmm...  This says more than 10 available: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-...;hash=item43d66c5da5

 

The the choke is first, then the bridge rectifier (don't use a plain diode), and the capacitor is across the output of the bridge if you add one.

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:
Originally Posted by Pingman:
Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

 

Pretty good price on those reels, no?

 

I loved that $2.89 price.  When I went to the Ebay link you supplied, they had only two left so I bought them. 

 

As for using the DC-DC buck booster module, if I add the rectifier, 22uh choke, and capacitor from your "roll your own" parts where each component is basically daisy chained (i.e. not on a board) would that work?

Hmm...  This says more than 10 available: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-...;hash=item43d66c5da5

 

The the choke is first, then the bridge rectifier (don't use a plain diode), and the capacitor is across the output of the bridge if you add one.

gunrunnerjohn, when I went to the link on p.1 of this thread on 2/12 where your $2.89 per LED reel "special" is shown, they only had two reels left on that Ebay listing.  That's what I bought and was referring to in my post above. 

 

I'll give DigiKey an order for the choke, rectifier, and capacitor; and, buy the DC-DC buck booster on Ebay--have to get moving, I've got 900 LED's to install.

 

Last edited by Pingman
Originally Posted by RJR:

Well, almost ideal.  On an O-gauge layout, I would rather get AC-DC for close to that price and save the price of a rectifier and capacitor.

RJR, if you are operating in TMCC/Legacy or DCS w/ 18 VAC, those AC-DC modules are great.  But as gunrunnerjohn explained above, for conventional operation with variable track voltage, those modules may be problematic when track voltage is below 12 VAC. 

I think mine are multicolored!  Today I looked at the reels I received and they are different than the one shown on the auction. Mine has a fancy plug with RWGB color wires and a male and female end to connect multisets.  Whereas the picture has just a R&B wire.  I wonder what these were originally made for? 

 

 

 

Last edited by moed321
Originally Posted by RJR:

GRJ, is your closet the equivalent of Fibber McGee's when you open the door?

 

I have it better organized.

 

 

Originally Posted by illinoiscentral:

Here is a AC-to-DC buck ....

 

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C3..._30332190_TE_3p_dp_1

 

that I have bought, played with, but have yet to install. I was going to make the guinea pig a K-Line caboose, but after I took it apart, I decided against.

That's a step-down only, and it's the same module listed above for about $3.

 

 

Originally Posted by moed321:

I think mine are multicolored!  Today I looked at the reels I received and they are different than the one shown on the auction. Mine has a fancy plug with RWGB color wires and a male and female end to connect multisets.  Whereas the picture has just a R&B wire.  I wonder what these were originally made for? 

 

Sounds like they sent a RGB LED strip.  Each LED on your strip has a Red, Blue, and Green LED within it.  So you need 4 wires to control the strip...a common, and one wire for each color.  In round numbers the RGB LED strips run, say, 5 times the price of single color strips.  Of course that's still only about $1 in LEDs to populate a typical passenger car.

 

The electronics are obviously more complicated since you are drive 3 circuits rather than one.  But simple controllers are $1 or so on eBay.  You feed 12V DC to the controller and it generates the 3 control signals allowing you to generate any color of the rainbow including warm white, cool white, etc.  For a few dollars you can even get a remote control fob to adjust color, adjust brightness, turn on/off, sequence a pattern (used for commercial displays).

 

It kind of opens a can of worms though.  Whereas before the issue was simply how bright to set the LED strips, now you can also adjust the color of your passenger car lighting to get just the right "shade" of warm-white!

Originally Posted by stan2004:
Originally Posted by moed321:

I think mine are multicolored!  Today I looked at the reels I received and they are different than the one shown on the auction. Mine has a fancy plug with RWGB color wires and a male and female end to connect multisets.  Whereas the picture has just a R&B wire.  I wonder what these were originally made for? 

 

Sounds like they sent a RGB LED strip.  Each LED on your strip has a Red, Blue, and Green LED within it.  So you need 4 wires to control the strip...a common, and one wire for each color.  In round numbers the RGB LED strips run, say, 5 times the price of single color strips.  Of course that's still only about $1 in LEDs to populate a typical passenger car.

 

The electronics are obviously more complicated since you are drive 3 circuits rather than one.  But simple controllers are $1 or so on eBay.  You feed 12V DC to the controller and it generates the 3 control signals allowing you to generate any color of the rainbow including warm white, cool white, etc.  For a few dollars you can even get a remote control fob to adjust color, adjust brightness, turn on/off, sequence a pattern (used for commercial displays).

 

It kind of opens a can of worms though.  Whereas before the issue was simply how bright to set the LED strips, now you can also adjust the color of your passenger car lighting to get just the right "shade" of warm-white!

Stan, I checked the two reels I bought, and they are the multi-color variety with a four pin connector which is not what I ordered.

 

I've gone through Ebay today to secure the simple, warm-white they listed for sale and which I ordered.

 

In the meantime, can you provide some more information (and Ebay links) for what would be needed to make what I have work for the passenger car lighting application?

 

 

I don't know exactly which RGB LED strip you have but the two commonly available controller types are as follows.  Search eBay for "RGB LED strip controller" and you'll get thousands of listings.

 

Here's a basic controller that's about $1 free shipping.  You apply 12V DC on the red/black wire on the lower-left and attach the 4-wires of your RGB LED strip to the connector on the upper-right.  There are tiny button under the markings as shown that allow you to adjust color, brightness and so on.  The controller is supposed to remember the setting so the next time you apply 12V DC it should remember your last setting.  Obviously for a passenger car application, you need to generate 12V DC from AC track voltage but this chore has been discussed to death on this forum.

 

ogr rgb controller

 

A more "sophisticated" controller runs a bit more but should be less than $5 or so.  Here you have a remote fob controller with a bunch of buttons to directly set the color rather than (presumably) stepping thru color options in the simple controller above.  So the tiny box on the left would go in the passenger car.  You feed the box 12V DC and it drives the 4-pin connector on your RGB strip.  I don't have one in front of me to confirm, but in theory if you put a white-box receiver in each passenger car you should be able to have one remote fob simultaneously adjust the color/brightness of each passenger car in a consist.  And as with the simple controller, the receivers in the passenger car should remember the setting on the next power cycle.

 

ogr rgb remote

I do not want to recommend a specific listing or product since there are variants of the RGB LED strips and if your seller can't even send you what you ordered it does make one wonder what you actually have!

Attachments

Images (2)
  • ogr rgb remote
  • ogr rgb controller

Stan, thanks for the fast and comprehensive reply.

 

Multi-colored LED's might be a neat effect.

 

Are the four-pin male/female connectors readily available; are there specific types?  I'm certain I will not use a 300 LED string in one application so adding connectors to LED segments is necessary.

Originally Posted by Pingman:
Are the four-pin male/female connectors readily available; are there specific types?  I'm certain I will not use a 300 LED string in one application so adding connectors to LED segments is necessary.

Absolutely!  Just search eBay for "RGB LED strip connector" and you should get thousands of choices.  There are 4-pin extension cables, 4-pin male, 4-pin female, with wires, without wires, etc. etc.

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

Carl, the difference is that for conventional operators, the buck only power module doesn't get the lights on until track voltage is around 12 volts, the buck/boost will have them working for almost any reasonable track voltage.  As mentioned previously, you have to add a 22uh choke (DCS compatibility), bridge rectifier, and perhaps even some bulk capacitance, though the extra capacitance isn't necessary for light loads.

 

Pretty good price on those reels, no?

 

John, I ordered some of the DC-DC buck boost modules you referenced earlier, and already have the 22uh chokes from DigiKey.  The price for 5 modules, including shipping, was $11.53.  I mention the price because the Ebay seller lists the price per unit in Canadian dollars.

 

 Could you supply the pn's for the rectifier and capacitors (if necessary) you'd recommend for passenger car lighting?

Last edited by Pingman
that is so cheap!  wow you get all that.  Originally Posted by moed321:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3528-5...;hash=item27f825802d

 

I bought this from the same seller. Not 100% sure what I bought but for $2.88 it has the adapter, remote and wallwart.   I will report back in a few weeks as to what actually arrives. Looks like the set is cheaper than the parts.  Am I reading this right?

 

Originally Posted by Pingman:

moed321, yes, you're reading it right.  For $2.88 could be some fun lighting effects to try out.

 

Originally Posted by Chris D:
that is so cheap!  wow you get all that.  Originally Posted by moed321:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3528-5...;hash=item27f825802d

 

I bought this from the same seller. Not 100% sure what I bought but for $2.88 it has the adapter, remote and wallwart.   I will report back in a few weeks as to what actually arrives. Looks like the set is cheaper than the parts.  Am I reading this right?

 

For $2.88 (300 mult-color LED's, remote module and controller, and wallwort) it will be cheap entertainment if nothing else; hopefully, there is a useful hobby application.

Originally Posted by stan2004:
Originally Posted by Pingman:
For $2.88 (300 mult-color LED's, remote module and controller, and wallwort) it will be cheap entertainment if nothing else; hopefully, there is a useful hobby application.

I wonder if they'll send a suitable power adapter...

 

$_12

Stan, the photo you posted looks the same to my untrained eye as the photo in the Ebay listing above.

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
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