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brwebster posted:

More importantly, your method of mounting a can onto a Pullmor chassis cleared a huge mental roadblock I had against putting one into my CV.  It's great to have a plan of attack rather than experimenting.

Re: Flywheels.  I left the flywheel on the small China drive motor I installed into a Lionel 18000 B6.  It sticks out of the back of the cab but the silent running and ERR cruise makes the whole affair so much fun!  A more than fair trade off IMHO.

Bruce

First time I cut the whole back side of a Mohawk chassis off, I thought to myself, oh god what have I done!...the first cut on the chassis never gets any better!....but you can breathe a little easier once you get the motor mount on.........Pat

Norton posted:

9234 simply designates its a Pittman DC040B-3. DC040Bs, of which there are 6 variations are all rated for 40V max but have different windings. After that the buyer can specify bearing, brush, and magnet type. Those are numbers and letters that follow 9234.

Here is some info, don't spend too much time here or your eyes will glaze over.

https://www.haydonkerkpittman....hed-dc-motors/dc040b

Pete

 

Not true.  9234 is a specific size pittman from the original co.  They have moved to a new numbering system with the ownership change.  Each number has a specific meaning wrt size, type of connection (wire or Terminal).  There use to be some old file on the web that spelled everything out.  If I remember right the 2 meant wire leads out of motor.  Where a 9434 had terminals that wires connected to like the typical MTH engine of the early versions.  There also are smaller length pittmans of the 9000 series.  I think the MTH Premier Atlantic may have used it, or the G5.  Can't remember which. 

It is true the other series of numbers was necessary to know what voltage, rpm, etc...  G

That is what I said.  You said it tells you nothing but that it is a pittman in your original post.  That is not true.  Also look up a 94 number, you will see that the 4 was a terminal connection.  Each number has some specific meaning, similar to Mabuchi motors.  But yes, the other requirement early on was knowing voltage as I stated.  G

Update on some changes and some progress...decided to go with a 15 volt PIttman, double shafts, to accommodate a rear mount flywheel. I still have not turned down a flywheel from stock yet, but I did manage to figure final mounting of the motor. I was able to use stock Lionel coupling and unaltered stock driveshaft. My only concern with this set up would be rearward pivot for the truck assembly, but I’ll cross that bridge when I get there...I really like the cleanliness of this set up...3FCE7191-A7AA-482A-854D-CE8AC1B505B17DBE993E-C205-421E-BC6C-3ABFED80D0C684D3946B-F9C3-4815-90DF-E4BA3A486294

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Ted S posted:

Great work!  Curious about where you sourced the motor from, dual-shaft and other than 12V winding can be hard to get...

Ted, I got lucky on the bay!...somebody listed a 15 volt for 40 bucks or best offer...double shaft...they’re a little weird, as the rear shaft is oddly long compared to the front, anyways, I made an offer at 18 bucks....and they bit!...turns out they had 8 of them....I gobbled them all up!........Pat

harmonyards posted:
Ted S posted:

Great work!  Curious about where you sourced the motor from, dual-shaft and other than 12V winding can be hard to get...

Ted, I got lucky on the bay!...somebody listed a 15 volt for 40 bucks or best offer...double shaft...they’re a little weird, as the rear shaft is oddly long compared to the front, anyways, I made an offer at 18 bucks....and they bit!...turns out they had 8 of them....I gobbled them all up!........Pat

Pat,

Hold one of those motors for me pleaseeeeeee! Patiently watching and waiting.

 

1000B310-A936-4EDB-BC0D-458B0E29D9C8Update on the Mohawk.....so we’re a little over straight 8 hours run time (been running nonstop since 7 am) .....I’m still in what I call mock up, she’s back dressed up and I’ll leave her run and make sure no issues develop. I for got to take pictures of the shell being clearanced for the big fat Pittman, but nevertheless I’ll do that when I add the electronics package....right now she runs on a rectifier ( I add the headlight back just because) so far, I’m barely pulling 3/4’s of an amp dragging this train around, no heat, no speeding up and slowing down, just a nice steady pace in conventional. This means when I add the package, I’ve got a proven performer with no hick ups...next I’ll add the package and I’m sure the draw will come up some, but at least I know mechanically I’m sound.....you couldn’t run a pullmor this long at not have to touch the throttle at some point..............Pat

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Hump Yard Mike posted:

Pat,

I have really enjoyed your post.  Trying to figure out how I might be able to do this with typical tools?  How did you go about drilling/aligning the holes into the frame for mounting the washer?

Thanks,

Mike

Mike, it might of helped if I showed that step!....in the case of the mohawk, the bottom of the motor mount or in this case the washer has to be as flush with the bottom of the frame as possible, if it did poke down a wee bit, no worries, just file it off....I reverse image the back of the frame with masking tape on the washer....I put a piece masking tape across the washer, I lock the washer in place on the back of the chassis where I want the washer to sit with a woodworkers sliding C clamp...I use a small Xacto knife and trace the frame member out of the tape....now I have a perfect mirror image of the frame on the washer. I can draw on the tape with a sharp pencil and measure out where I want my holes to land. I drill the washer first, making pilot holes on the drill press...with the tape still applied to the washer, I reclamp the washer to the frame, and use a drill to mark the frame where the machine screws will land....this method has never let me down....after that, it’s just a matter of drilling, tapping And countersinking for 6-32 machine screws. I cheat very badly when it comes to  mounting the motor to the washer, I have an old face from a Pittman that I can clamp right on the washer and drill right through the face and onto the washer for a pilot hole....all of this work can be done with common tools, with patience and careful measurements, I just so happen to have a machine shop at my garage so I have access to lathes, band saws, high speed cutters, and carbide cutting tools....although my sons always seem to be occupying the machines I want to use!...........Pat

Hump Yard Mike posted:

Thanks Pat.  I having some trouble visualizing how you clamp the washer to the frame.  Do you have any pictures of this?

Mike

No, but when I pull it back apart to add the electronics I certainly can show you then...it’s just a slide type C clamp, long enough to go from the front of the chassis to the back...nothing extraordinary, use whatever it takes to clamp the washer to the chassis....Pat

Strummer posted:

Hey Pat

Did you ever get around to completing this project? This has got to be one of my all time favorite threads...

Mark in Oregon 

I haven’t added the electronics to it yet Mark, I’ve been busy building other folks stuff, and finishing some more Pittman swaps of my own....one of these days I’m going to have to break bad and place a big ol fat order with Scott Mann....that’ll be a good day for him!....I did finish up this Pullmor Hudson  (6-18056) swapped it over to Pittman power.....AB6536D6-DD9B-48A2-B8CC-A4001E1B3BEEE6F3D97C-9A50-4B15-81B0-1B7AD59E3AA19642C234-A816-4AF5-A2FF-7E1BD7218E81

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I'm searching for a flywheel from MTH BE0000031. They are out. I looked at Lionel and found one that may work for a Legacy with a Canon motor. I'm not sure what shaft diameter that has?

I'm searching for other Lionel models that may have a matching flywheel for me that fits the Pittman, and up pops this post on my search!

More great work from the Harmon shops.

Carry on....

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