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For those folks still venturing into the world of DCS I finally found out where to get the "magic light". I am sure there are other sources for the light, but after searching thru Lowes, HD, Radio Shack, Ace Hardware and various auto stores in our area I happened upon a site on the internet that has the "magic light" and other items of interest like surge protectors, inline fuses etc. The 18 volt magic lights which come in clear, red or green with the attached base go for $2.50 ea. Since I had difficulty finding these I ordered several. Hopefully the "magic light" and block installation will help me with the problems I have had installing the DCS. The site for those interested is: Train Electrics.com. This acquired the relays and specialty electrical items from Scott's Odds-n-Ends of Florida. 

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Sometimes the "magic" that the magic light accomplishes is to wipe out your DCS signal, or at least reduce it to a 1 or 2....
 
This can vary widely from layout-to-layout, based on personal experience only.
 
Your mileage may vary ....
 
Originally Posted by dan venet:

For those folks still venturing into the world of DCS I finally found out where to get the "magic light". I am sure there are other sources for the light, but after searching thru Lowes, HD, Radio Shack, Ace Hardware and various auto stores in our area I happened upon a site on the internet that has the "magic light" and other items of interest like surge protectors, inline fuses etc. The 18 volt magic lights which come in clear, red or green with the attached base go for $2.50 ea. Since I had difficulty finding these I ordered several. Hopefully the "magic light" and block installation will help me with the problems I have had installing the DCS. The site for those interested is: Train Electrics.com. This acquired the relays and specialty electrical items from Scott's Odds-n-Ends of Florida. 

You can also look for Susan's "Engineered Filters"

These are small, inexpensive, and don't eat track power like the bulbs do.

Nor will they ever burn out.

They are small enough to hide between the ties in your rails.

And once you know the parts, they are widely available from any large electronic parts place. And Very inexpensive.

Originally Posted by dan venet:
Thanks Rod. Sorry for late late response but another problem with my real trax switches game up. Always something. I ordered the 18volt bulbs and waiting to try them.
Thanks Dan

I ordered bulbs the day of your original post,05/25 have not got a confirmation! Inquired by phone-was notified phone NO LONGER IN SERVICE! (TrainElectric.com)

Kerrigan,

These filters go between tracks instead of on the TIU outputs?

They are intended to be used in pairs. One of the pair goes across either the TIU channel output or the terminal block entry, and the other goes across center and common rails "at the farthest point from the TIU channel output".

 

Keep in mind that these filters were intended to be used on buss-wired layouts. On star-wired layouts, there isn't necessarily one "fathest point from the TIU channel output".

 

I've tried these filters using only one per terminal block entry on my star-wired layout with Rev. I3 and I3a TIUs. My results were that the filters, at best, were only as effective as an individual bulb, and in most cases not quite as good as a bulb.

Just wanted to let you know that I called trainselectric.com after your posting that the phone was no longer in service.  The number I called was:  231-631-0447 and the gentleman confirmed my order and told me it was sent out and I should be receiving it by tomorrow.
 
Originally Posted by nmtrains:
Originally Posted by dan venet:
Thanks Rod. Sorry for late late response but another problem with my real trax switches game up. Always something. I ordered the 18volt bulbs and waiting to try them.
Thanks Dan

I ordered bulbs the day of your original post,05/25 have not got a confirmation! Inquired by phone-was notified phone NO LONGER IN SERVICE! (TrainElectric.com)
Originally Posted by dan venet:
Just wanted to let you know that I called trainselectric.com after your posting that the phone was no longer in service.  The number I called was:  231-631-0447 and the gentleman confirmed my order and told me it was sent out and I should be receiving it by tomorrow.
Originally Posted by nmtrains:
Originally Posted by dan venet:
Thanks Rod. Sorry for late late response but another problem with my real trax switches game up. Always something. I ordered the 18volt bulbs and waiting to try them.
Thanks Dan

I ordered bulbs the day of your original post,05/25 have not got a confirmation! Inquired by phone-was notified phone NO LONGER IN SERVICE! (TrainElectric.com)

Call-off the dogs,MY BAD-Dialed the wong #!

Just purchased the magic bulbs from train electronics. I have 2 stub sidings that must need them, because the Lionel lighted fastrack bumpers don't have the magic. But can I still use these bumpers with the magic bulbs. I will also use one at the MTH 12 port terminal block. I need to know where do I connect the magic bulb wires. Is 16 gauge wire suitable for the magic lights? For the MTH block I assume the input is where first pair of terminals are located (one marked + and one marked  - )... where the wires from the TIU are connected. For the stub siding I assume the wires attach to the connectors on the underside of the fastrack. What size female connectors do I need for the fastrack connectors? Thanks so much for this thread. And thank you Barry for the DCS companion book.

John,

Why not use the filters that Susan Deets has posted on her site?

Actually, on my star/home run wired layout, I've determined that, with my pre-Rev. L TIUs, the bulbs worked better than did the filters.

 

If you recall, the filters were intended, originally, for buss-wired layouts with the filters installed in pairs. One filter at the TIU or terminal block entry and the other at "the farthest point on the layout from the TIU". I'm not real sure how to determine the "farthest point" on a star/home run wired layout.

 

Different layouts may yield different results, however, I've yet to hear of an instance on any layout where the filters did a better job than did the bulbs. Of course, one needs to use the correct bulbs, i.e., 18 volt.

RJR, those are good numbers.  The name "magic" got filtered in by forum members over the years.  It was better than magic when I was testing the DCS and tripped over the light bulb fix  before it got to the public.  Just a lucky find.  Nothing fancy about it.  When the best signal that could be had was a 5, I put a light bulb on the TIU output and the signal went to 10.  MTH R & D confirmed it the next day. 

 

The early days were tough.  Early on before the remote was made, we used a laptop to run the trains.  Not fun.  The light bulb does work.  Now with the newer Rev L TIU, they are becoming a thing of the past.

My first use of bulbs was not at the TIU, but at the end of some (not all) sidings which, for some unexplained reason, were pulling down the signal strength on the main line when powered up, even with nothing on the siding.  Having the entire layout toggle-switch-blocked facilitated finding problem sidings.

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