Mobilgas Tank Cars

Yellow is extremely problematic.  For Shell, I would say that UP Armor yellow is ok, but even named colors of yellow are different since they banned chromium.  I cannot match my Ford Commercial Yellow from 1980, even with the factory formula.  You should see how badly messed up the old standard Army-Navy yellows are.

bob2 posted:

Yellow is extremely problematic.  For Shell, I would say that UP Armor yellow is ok, but even named colors of yellow are different since they banned chromium.  I cannot match my Ford Commercial Yellow from 1980, even with the factory formula.  You should see how badly messed up the old standard Army-Navy yellows are.

I found these on line from some full scale petrol restore guys.  Actually looks like it might be a pretty good match for a 30's Lobaugh or other Shell tank car.  These guys were arguing over different shades depending on the era of the piece.  This one I think was suggested to be for 1930's lubritorium stuff.

Yeah I loved that Chrome Yellow on the wings of prewar Army fighters and such.  I know what you mean about colors, it seems similar with my Rangoon Red, hard to match.  That said, I do understand the pigment materials are the problems, and the Chromium as a pigment is a big one!

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Dennis Holler If its old and broke, I like it

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Carey Williams posted:

Hello Tank car folks ....ok is this a Lobaugh?...it has Lobaugh trucks ......what is the best method to lay peeling decals back down?

Thank.you 

Cheers CareyP_20181022_181045_LL

Don't know what it is or is not, but repairing the lettering leaves you with only a few choices. Leave it as is. Or remove the loose decal parts and mix paint to match and hand paint what is missing(I have seen people do this and was amazed at how good it looked).  If you wanted to keep it as original as possible but look nice, remove the loose decal parts, clean the car with soapy water, spray the car with clear to seal what is left, and then try to find another set of the same decals to reapply over the top of the old ones(Decals almost have to be Walthers or Champ?).

Or you could just strip the car, add some detail, and repaint it...

D20841A7-B582-4A9E-A074-068E060B5455I think it is a Thomas.  Re- stick the decal with Solvaset. Be very careful, because Solvaset will melt the decal as quickly as it sets it.

But you can find new decals - those are Walthers, and still available if you know where to look, and Protocraft has a really good set.  And I have (maybe) white ones with black outline.

I finally finished my new Lobaugh - photo above.  It has a few blemishes, but I am now happy.  I may do one more.

Thomas tank cars are nice, but not nearly as rugged as Lobaugh.  The wrapper is .010, and they use a lot of die cast parts.  I usually reinforce the tank with brass tube inside.

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Bob Anson just authorized me to mention that he did the decals.  I had been reluctant to let on, because I thought he didn't want to do too much of this stuff.

Bob has an Alps printer and really good decal paper, and is willing to take on a few projects.  He did these from photographs, and you can see how nice.  If you need custom decals, Bob is an excellent source.

e2picasso at yahoo dot com to get his attention.

501C2EFD-DA12-47B5-80AD-884BD5E3EE46I am dangerous when I have a rattle can close by.  Grabbed this thing out of the Decathlon hangar, brought it home, and cleaned and hosed it with Flame Red.

It is a scratch tank with Walthers dome and underframe.  Bob made two widths of Black outline, so I used the thicker outline here - I was just decorating, not trying to reproduce an old Lobaugh.  For minimal effort it turned out well.

 

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Erik C Lindgren


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