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I don't have the engine anymore, but had a similar damage. Bought off the Bay and damaged through shipping. No insurance but rather then return, seller offered a good refund. I carved a piece of wood and placed it under cab and then clamped it. Each day I gave a 1/4 turn after 2 weeks with touch up paint, was not noticeable at all.

Not sure if it will help you, but worked for me. Did same for a Lionel front step that was bent inward and using a straight piece of wood, slowly straightened same, didn't even have to touch up. Patience is the key. If a crack should occur, filler, sanding, and paint will help. Been that route also.

Rick, it most likely was new.  I can not see the service department working on a cab.  Sounds like you did good.   I have played with bent cabs with some success.  I did a N&W J and heated the heck out of it with a hair dryer.  If anyone tries this approach, heat both sides equal.   Bend a bit at a time.  Do not try to do it in one bend.

Repeating myself - in 1971 I was helping build a Piper Cub at the Dripcut factory in Santa Barbara.  You still see their products at pancake houses - syrup dispensers.

Note that curved handle - the cap is a die casting, chrome plated.  The casting came from LA Die Casting straight.  The Dripcut engineering department tried everything to bend the handle without cracking it.

They wound up with an impact device: Wham! No cracks.

But you already know that.  The cab suffered an impact, and no cracks.

I doubt that it works both ways - Reverse bending is chancy at best.

Of passing interest: the airplane guy's brother was a train nut.  We stored airplane parts in an 80 foot heavyweight observation car.  He had a small steam engine named "Dagny" - he was no doubt an " objectivist".

bruce benzie posted:

A friend has this beautiful MTH locomotive that he acquired at an auction.  It was apparently dropped

and damaged the cab roof.  Is there anyway it can be straightened?  apply some heat and gradually straighten?

Anyone have experience with this?

bruce

 

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I described how to do this last week the old Lionel paint could often stand the heat not so sure about the paint they use now. So you should be ready to repaint the roof. I have used this method numerous times and it has always worked but I would find something to practice on before tackling the Class A.  Hold a 1x4 block of wood against the back edge of the roof and trace the curve of the roof on to the side of the board. You will want the bottom of the roof to end up facing up when you start the procedure. So cut the board with that in mind. Once you cut the board you turn it around left to right so the bent area of the roof is over the side of the board that you traced the unbent side of the board. Now I take a small butane model torch and just start brushing the bent area with the torch. At the same time I use an old fork to put light steady pressure on the bend pressing it toward the curve you cut in the board. You need to rest the board and loco on a steady surface and brace the loco so that it cannot move during the process. Attached are photos of the wood cradle sitting on top of a 18005 NYC Hudson in actual practice the loco would be upside down with the bent edge of the roof resting in the cradle and something propping up the front of the loco to keep it level so the roof top was resting flat in the cradle.  I had the luxury of having straightened much less valuable loco roofs before the first 700e. So if you have an old beater to practice on all the better.  Just make sure to keep the torch moving and just as the roof settles into the cradle remove the flame and don't move anything till you can touch the roof five minutes would be plenty long.

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