New layout by a noob

Nice layout. They look like MTH Real Trax switches, are they?  If so when you remove that little cover on the switch where you hook up the wires, you will see a brass/ golden colored jumper between two of the end screws. This jumpers the power from the track to the switch.  If you remove the jumper the switches will then have no power to switch.  Run a separate wire to the screw to power the switch ( where you took out the jumper) it is not the end screw, the other one.

The MTH site has info also on wiring them. Normally they will operate fine in the 10-12 volt range. If you use a separate transformer for this make sure it is in phase with track transformer.

Yes you can use another transformer for accessories.

Best of luck and enjoy.

AWESOME!!!!  Thank you!!!!  I have been at it all day.  Need a break.  But its coming around great!!!

 

Just frustrated, I have a Weaver RS-3 Diesel that keeps running off the tracks at the switches.  I have the LIRR anniversary passenger train that seems to handle it better.  I need to build a little control panel for the switches and transformer.  I am not thrilled with it.  doesn't seem to be giving enough juice to the engine.  But I am new and still figuring it all out.  MY kids love it!!!

If it's an older WEaver, it requires an 042 curve.

if you don't have the manuals that came with the switches here's a link to the MTH instructions.

http://www.mthtrains.com/sites...ction/40as17023i.pdf

Hope this helps out.

 

Jerry

I bought it in 2010. 

 

Thanks for all your responses!

Thank you!!!!

You've done a nice job with the layout. Separate constant power to the turnouts is the best way to go. If you feed them 14VAC they should function well.

You are doing well.

 

You may wish to add feeder wires to each area of the Layout to keep the trains from slowing down while far away from the power pack.

Doesn't the Z1000 have a 14v accessory port? Power the switches from that port using the instructions from the switch User Guide and accessories , if they are in the plan.

 

Nice layout! Reversing loop and sidings add fun.

Keep "Noobin" things are looking good.

Welcome to the forums;

Moonman is correct, the Z-1000 has a 14VAC accessory power port on the brick.

I use that to power all my RealTrax switches and they operate fine at any track voltage.

Just remove the jumper and run power to the second screw from the end as shown in the instructions.

Thanks everybody for your kind words!  Its coming together!  This is very addicting!  Thank you for all the help!

Great layout! Looks like another reverse loop on the camera end would give you continuous operation without having to back up to turn around.

Magoo, looks like you're on the right track for a life time of fun. 

A RealTrax switch that humms or Buzzes when you try to throw it is usually fighting the anti-derail function.

Cause; The outside rails are both making contact with the rail ends on the switch. The rails that form a small V are not supposed to touch the track they connect to.

If they do the switch sees it as a train coming on that track and switches to that track. If you try to switch to the other track the anti-derail fights the change.

 

A lack of level between the switch and the approaching track can cause this as can a slipping rail on the switch. I place a bit of electrical tape on the end of the switch rail to avoid this issue.

Thanks Russell!  I have a feeling thats what the issue is.  When I changed the layout a bit this happened.  I guess I have to play around with it and use your suggestion.  I am just a little confused where exactly to place the tape?  I am also confused as to exactly what kind f toggle switches I need for the lock out and exactly how to wire them.  I went on your link.  That is one impressive layout!

jj;

Pull the switch loose from the tracks on the diverging end.

Then look at the connectors under the rails. One of each set does not have a contact.

Put the tape on the end of those rails. There are 2 of them.

You can also blob a bit of hot glue or RTV on the rail ends, anything to prevent the rails from touching.

 

Not sure what you want the toggle switches for.

I use them to power sidings off and reduce run time on engines and lighted cars bulbs.

I use lighted toggles from Radio Shack. There are less expensive places but I wanted to match those on hand.

Simply put a piece of tape over the contact and end of the center rail on a piece of track near the switch. Then Run a new wire from the Z controller Red output to the switch. Then run a wire from the switch to the siding center rail.

After that the switch will control power to the siding.

 

Now, this can cause issues when you go to DCS, so drop me a line if you do.

That's great Russell! I was looking to toggle the sidings for the same reason you mentioned. I will get going on this very soon! Thanks for all your assistance.

Well ok! The only thing left to do is figure out to use the toggle switches for the siding. Still trying to figure out how I am going to do this. But I have the aux power in the switches, which has been operating flawlessly! The only issue I am having is my weaver RS-3 locomotive is derailing at the same spot Everytime. I think the issue is the contact under the locomotive that connects to the third rail. It seems very stiff and doesn't flex when going through the switches. I was wondering if anybody has had any similar issues and if you did how did you fix it??? Other then that this has been a wonderful expierience.

I have enclosed a picture of a different angle.  I have added an MTH flood lights on the corners.  I have placed 2 Smart signals from Z-Stuff.  I have also added a RMT Long Island Railroad water tower in the other corner.  I am still planning on having a power plant with smoke stacks and try to get a passenger platform for my Lionel M7.  This is becoming very addicting!  What was once strictly for my kids has become my new obsession.  I am still in the process of having my neighbor paint the logo for the MTA on the wall.  Its coming together!  Thank you everybody for being so kind and helpful! 

It's coming along nicely, Jim.

Flex? Do you mean pivot, swing etc.? A sharp edge can cause binding, bent pivot axel, tight pivot rivets. I've limited the vertical travel with zip ties to keep O switchers running on 0-27. Same on some with small diameter rollers to keep them from dropping into gaps on an old Sakai 90 crossover causing pole vaulting! Just limiting the lead roller on K-line passenger cars I do before I even try to run, they dig out my center bus clips if on Super O. Different spacing between rollers due to engine style and size, different lengths of arms(O-36 can be longer than 027 etc.), roller width, and all the track differences over the years, all make each problem unique. You might try some conductive lube, or replace the spring yourself. Even hot rod it, swap pickups if you can.      

Thats exactly what I am talking about!!!!  WOW!  I am going to look into this!  Thank you!

Magoo - looks great so far - only problem I see is once your loco enters your reverse loop it can't go in the opposite direction.

Yes, that is an issue.  My friend did the homework on what the design of the layout should be.  I think the plan is once I get my bearings straight and I get more confident with this I was thinking we will expand the layout.  The ultimate would be have a plan in place for like a bridge tressel to connect the two layouts!!!  But that is a few years away.

I am still learning.  If you have any ideas to alter what I have done without me losing more of my hair I am all ears!

Thanks!

Magoo, FYI the learning never ends, the build seldom ends. Just don't forget its ok to say good enough for now. Your taste in how you run may change too. Some tire of loops and concentrate on switching (Im still very "loopy" almost 50 years of it) 

Very true!  Thanks for the insight!  This has become an obsession!

Ok, after spending way too much money and the fact that I am now obsessed with my layout and all that goes with it I have few questions.  With a layout like mine, I think I have too much rolling stock.  I am now an official nut on the subject of all that's intermodal.  So I have refocused the layout to consist of having passenger station for my  Lionel m7 and now having a sort of industrial port depot for my intermodal Cars.  I have started to realize that as much as I love my current layout and happy it's running fine I now feel the urge to had more to it.  I am thinking adding an additional siding or maybe (divorce possible) expanding???  If I expand it won't be for sometime but the thought of adding something to the existing layout is certainly possible.  I guess what I am saying is I am getting way ahead of myself but see areas of potential improvement.  Any thoughts is greatly appreciated!  

O.K. You "have too much rolling stock" I have trouble with the concept I have about 160, 20 locos, but my Gramps had shelves that were about 4x70ft or more. He had over 160 locos! H3ll, he had more than twenty electrics alone. So I have been building some recently for a layout near your size (find the "what I did on my layout today" thread, a good one to follow too). So how about a set of color coordinated shelves to cover the area under the layout? Moving the X-brace to sides and back and using a small brace on the front legs for side to side stability would free the underside for a little storage. Maybe shallow shelves hinged like doors? A wheel to help them swing easy? I suggest a kick molding base, and raised lowest shelf so things don't get kicked, 4-5" raise. It will add a very finished look and supply you with convenient storage for your stock not in use at the time...oops, low battery, Im out till later. 

 

 

 

 

OOOOOOHHHH, I like that!  And Damm! You got yourself some trains!!!  Impressive collection!  I may have to tell my wife that I am not as bad as she tell mes I am!!!  I have added a shelf to the wall where I have some rolling stock not in use.  I like your idea.  The scary thing I was thinking of expansion!!!  I know, I am a noob!  I should just enjoy what I have.  My ADD is telling me go bigger!  I think for the time being I will follow your advise and as I get more and more buildings and scenery added I will look into modifying underneath the layout for storage.  Thanks for your reply!!!

That was my next suggestion, buildings! Also "planed" planning, and searching, can help eat up time, allowing you to build the hobby piggy bank between fits of spending. Have you searched for local train shows yet? I love attending the smaller shows, get there kinda early, as railroaders tend to be early risers, and some sellers pack up by noon. I skip "fee for early entrance" unless I am looking for hens teeth.  The number of them increases greatly during the colder months, almost zero in the summer near me. Be pre-paired NOT to buy, and just maybe you wont spend every last dime. PS I can only take credit for the "doors" idea, low shelves, pretty common. Have you seen Christopher's layout?  https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/t...05#20717517878618005  

Ok, call me crazy but I am thinking of adding another siding or trying to figure out a way to add some more excitement?  Any help or suggestions greatly appreciated!

A point to point trolley line? An elevated line? It could be set up to wait for clear tack too. More switches would get you another reverse loop. Operating accessories have kept me smiling over 40 years! My favorites in order, Rocket gantry/pad, or remote control crane, coal elevator, saw mill, culvert pipe loader, yard tower w/man, milk/ice/boxes, bubbling oil derrick & tower, news stand w/dog, luggage station, and cows/sheep/horses. The coal elevator, culvert pipe loader, and sawmill, can be used with automatic dump cars for endless loops of hands free loading and unloading. So can the animals but the vibrating figures can be a pain. Loading automatic box cars by hand can be too. But the fun factor is there. Operating scenery like the derricks, and yard tower, can add action you don't have to worry about controlling directly. The ultimate accessory for me were the rocket orientated ones, my gantry doubled as a loading crane too. Now there is a remote control crane to load your cars with. If I were to guess correctly, I think it might become my new favorite accessory if I were to get one.  Any how I am  trying out SCARM a free software program. This was done just screwing around trying to lean it. Its Lionel 0-36, they don't have MTH track, I think you could produce something similar. A 100% elevated line could be any shape.(and a crane would be nice for freight transfer.)

Those are some great ideas. I def want a crane! I wish they had more offerings with regards to intermodal cranes? I def want to add a siding. I don't mind adding a new switch or two. Just don't want to make the layout congested. I have some open land on the layout. My idea is to possibly make an elevated part for my LIRR passenger line and keep the freight on the main line. I just want the ability to keep the kids and myself busy! I am still in the honeymoon stage with my layout. I Absolutley live my MTH RTR CSX freight. Just wish there were more offerings for cranes and such.

Magoo, I wasn't sure what type of action you were after, so I addressed it all. I get the crowded bit, I was really just playing with the program. And I run a lot of steam so adding another reverse loop would be important for me.

 Don't under estimate the power of trolley with kids. The old Lionel bump and go street cars and maintenance vehicles are mega fun for kids.  And if elevated vs integrated, like above, can be simple and removed easily. I think the coal or saw mill setups are the most cost effective "bangs", till you can "swing" for a freight or construction crane, or till you can "lift" your wallet enough to afford the intermodal crane. Other than adding a loop somehow, to get two loops, would be my only other suggestion.      

All Great points!  I just dont understand why there are some things that are readily available yet some things are non existent!  I want to get a crane!  And I so want the intermodal crane!!  But it all have costs!  Thanks for your help!

Supply and demand. Saturate the market then, wait till its gone, and see if we beg for more, that's been the game for a looong time. Lionel did make an operating remote control intermodal crane in the 90s, there is a nice one on Ebay "buy now" for about the price of a new locomotive. Non-train remote control cranes are a collecting/operating niche themselves, and finding one in a scale usable with O, shouldn't be too much of a challenge.

 

 

Ok, after fooling around with the ideas and still debating my wants and needs I have decided on two things.  1) My layout consists of two trains, passenger and freight.  I am thinking that adding another siding will help separate the two.  I already have two sidings but in the not too distant future I will be adding another freight engine.  So my thinking is I will use the CSX train for the intermodal container rolling stock I am presently collecting and when my new switcher comes in November or December I will use that to move the Long Island themed rolling stock I presently own.

 

2) I am thinking about having a reverse Loop.  My only conundrum is where do I put it?  I am trying to figure it out using a picture of my layout of how and where.  Or do I connect the far siding to the turn and have an inner loop and an outer loop and just add the siding where the track bi-sects the layout in the middle?

 

Any thoughts and ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Magoo have you tried out Anyrail or SCARM free track design programs. The realtrax is not in them. I think MTH sells a program. But some measuring, pick its size equal, and you should be able to come very close I would think. Ill see if I can repost that photo if you want.