Here is a link to the exact same project that you wan to do:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcBfCfv3OQ
Marty
Martin Derouin posted:Here is a link to the exact same project that you wan to do:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcBfCfv3OQ
Marty
Marty,
It's funny you should post that. I came across it yesterday by accident while searching for information on the NW2 compared to other diesels since there is no NW2 sound board from ERR and I wanted to get something that would sound reasonably close (see earlier posts above). I think I've landed on the E8.
Anyway, that link has me considering adding LEDs to my project. I wish the video had more detail of the work in progress instead of just the finished result. But it did give me a new idea (LED) and confirmed what I wanted to do would fit in the cab space. Thanks again.
Of course, if you don't want to upgrade to command, that's overkill, but it's a nice conversion. The LED's are pretty easy. If you run from track power, put a diode and a 470 (or greater) ohm 1/4W resistor in series with the LED. I use the same thing running them from the command modules. My choice for the deck would be fiberglass board as I have several large sheets of it I cut chunks off for this kind of task.
I have a postwar 621 Jersey Central that came with no headlight. For some reason Lionel didn't put a headlight in the 621. Picked up a led from Evans Designs all ready to go. I didn't have to add a diode or resistor.
mopac01 posted:Martin Derouin posted:Here is a link to the exact same project that you wan to do:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAcBfCfv3OQ
Marty
Marty,
It's funny you should post that. I came across it yesterday by accident while searching for information on the NW2 compared to other diesels since there is no NW2 sound board from ERR and I wanted to get something that would sound reasonably close (see earlier posts above). I think I've landed on the E8.
Anyway, that link has me considering adding LEDs to my project. I wish the video had more detail of the work in progress instead of just the finished result. But it did give me a new idea (LED) and confirmed what I wanted to do would fit in the cab space. Thanks again.
The E-8 has TWO V-12s so the sound is not what you want. The F-3 is the closest out of the ones you mentioned. However, look on the For Sale forum, there is someone on there with a NW-2 specific Railsounds board for sale. Look for a listing by Papertrw.
The NW-2 RS board requires a RS power supply and the matching motherboard, not to mention you'll have to assemble the custom harnesses to wire that set. It'll also be a bunch bigger than the single ERR board.
I just recently finished working on my 6250 Seaboard NW-2 Switcher. My dad gave it to me when I was a kid back in the 70's. Took it in to a repair shop back then and they said it would only ever work in reverse. Two days before Christmas this year, I had finished cleaning the motor and e-unit. All was very straight forward. Once I got everything back together, I tested it on the track and received my Christmas surprise! Not only did it work in reverse, but for the first time that I know of it worked in forward as well and all the lights work! I plan on upgrading to the AC Command Control with sounds as well.
I found the "radio wheel" at Trainz.com. It took me a while to find the part number. It is 622-10.
So glad to hear that someone else has recently renewed the O gauge bug!
You will love it once it gets running again!
I just want to know where people find these lame repair shops??? 
OhB1 posted:Two days before Christmas this year, I had finished cleaning the motor and e-unit. All was very straight forward. Once I got everything back together, I tested it on the track and received my Christmas surprise! Not only did it work in reverse, but for the first time that I know of it worked in forward as well and all the lights work!
Do you follow a post somewhere regarding cleaning the motor? GRJ made high level mention of taking it apart above, but if you performed the "operation" following a detailed post (with pics or video) somewhere I'd love to get the link. I hate reinventing the wheel if somebody has already posted detailed instructions that I could follow. It takes the guesswork out of things.
I found the E-Unit repair video here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C3cHF_a6CNM It is a two part video.
The motor is very straight forward, as it only requires a couple of screws to disassemble. Be careful when cleaning the brushes. They are small and can get lost easily.
I used scotch brite to clean the copper surfaces for everything.
I should have taken pics as I was doing the work but it was my first time as well and wasn't sure how it would come out.
John, the repair shop that my dad and I took it to is now closed. This was back in the 70's and there wasn't very many You tube videos at the time. 
I will take some pics tonight so you can see that motor in particular.
Had time at lunch to get these pics hope they help!
This took me about 10 minutes but I was taking pictures during that time as well. You should be able to do this fairly quickly! The E-unit should come off just as easy. I didn't disconnect any wires when I cleaned up the motor and E-unit.
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Nice photos, might as well lube that now that it's out. 
WOW! Thanks OHB1 and GRJ. Between the photos and video this should be what I need!
GRJ thought the same thing as soon as I took it apart. 
RJR posted:I know that feeling, mopac. No other reason why I'd expend the dollars, time, and effort to get 2 of my 65 year old Lionel locos running under DCS along with my newer locos.
RJR - Did you get your 65 year old open from AC motors running under DCS with the AC Commander or did you replace the Pullmors with DC can motors?
I couldn't figure any reliable way to get a tach tape onto the Pulmor, so I replaced it with a DC can motor from Frank Timko. Came with the base, shaft & worm and just slipped into place. I installed a PS2 upgrade kit, with a supercap and a smaller speaker. Also, since Lionel couplers aren't compatible with PS2 wiring, I installed a small relay to operate them.
Full details with pictures & an operating video are in this thread
Upgrading a Pulmor-powered Lionel loco to PS@
posted in November 2014. (Didn't notice the typo in the title before.)
I ordered the AC Commander and the Railsounds Commander F3 version. I also ordered a replacement radio wheel and C&O lettering from Jeff at www.ttender.com as mentioned above. In the meantime I'm going to clean up the cab and do maintenance on the motor per the above recommendations as well as take out the e-unit and put a non-conductive mounting board in place to receive the ERR components. I think the ERR kits should have all the wiring I need, but what gauge would be good to get on hand for the sort of wiring I'd typically do inside a Lionel engine?
Any wiring that might be required ( probably won't need any ) will be somewhere in the range of 22 gauge.
One consideration on the upgrade would be to add coil couplers to your NW2. They could be added whenever it's convenient. There's nothing like a switcher that can actually perform switching under CC.
I cannibalized an old TMCC GP7 as my first foray into upgrading. Even though the GP7 sounds might not have been correct emanating from a Budd RDC, that doesn't worry me. It was a thrifty conversion that produced a rather unique item. I'm not sure but I don't think Lionel has ever made a CC RDC.
Bruce
